Flooring Contractors
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Most Australian houses are built on a concrete slab poured on the ground rather than over a basement, and that single fact drives more flooring decisions here than any other. A slab on ground is in contact with the soil beneath it, so moisture can travel up through the concrete and into whatever is stuck to the top of it. Moisture is the leading cause of flooring failures that appear months after installation looks perfect.
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The second Australian complication is what might already be under the old floor. Vinyl tiles and sheet vinyl produced before the 1980s, and in use into the 1990s, frequently contained asbestos in the tile body, in the felt-like backing or in the adhesive used to stick them down. Lifting an old kitchen or laundry floor is one of the commonest ways a renovation disturbs asbestos, and it needs to be identified before anyone starts scraping.
The third is termites. Subterranean termites are found through most of the country, and they eat the cellulose in timber — which includes flooring, subfloor timbers and the frame it all sits on. Choosing timber flooring in a high-risk district is not a reason to avoid it, but it is a reason to keep the termite management system intact and keep up the inspection routine after the new floor goes down.
Flooring types and how each behaves in an Australian home
- Solid timber: beautiful and repeatedly sandable, but it moves with humidity and needs expansion allowance, and it is the material termites are interested in.
- Engineered timber: a real timber wear layer over a stable core, which handles humidity swings and slab installations better than solid boards and is commonly laid as a floating floor.
- Laminate: a printed wear layer over a fibreboard core, tough underfoot and inexpensive, but unforgiving about standing water at the joints.
- Hybrid and luxury vinyl planks: rigid-core products that tolerate wet areas and slab moisture far better than timber-based floors, which is why they have spread through Australian kitchens and laundries.
- Sheet vinyl: seamless and water-resistant, the usual choice for laundries and bathrooms, and the material most likely to be hiding asbestos if it is old.
- Ceramic and porcelain tile: the default in hot climates because it stays cool underfoot, but it needs a sound, flat, movement-tolerant substrate or it will crack and go drummy.
- Carpet: still common in bedrooms, and its performance depends almost entirely on the underlay and on the subfloor being dry.
Slab moisture, subfloor preparation and acclimatisation
On a slab-on-ground house, subfloor preparation is the job. A slab can look and feel bone dry on the surface while still releasing moisture vapour from below, particularly a newer slab or one without an effective vapour barrier under it. That moisture attacks adhesives, lifts vinyl, cups timber and causes the mysterious failures that appear a season after handover. AS 1884:2021, the current edition of the Australian Standard for installation practices for resilient sheet and tile floor coverings, covers subfloor preparation including moisture testing of concrete before a resilient floor goes down. Note its scope: it governs vinyl, linoleum, rubber and similar resilient coverings, not timber, laminate or engineered boards, which have their own rules.
The practical version for a homeowner is to ask two questions of every quote: how will the subfloor moisture be measured, and what happens if the reading is too high. A contractor who intends to test, and who has priced a moisture barrier or a delay as a contingency, is telling you they have seen this before. One who says nothing about moisture on a ground-floor slab is quoting on hope.
Levelling and flatness come next. Slabs are rarely as flat as a floating floor or a large-format tile needs, so grinding high spots and applying levelling compound is normal rather than an upsell. Timber and timber-based products also need acclimatising in the room where they will be laid, so they reach the moisture content they will live at rather than shrinking or swelling into gaps and cupping after installation.
Asbestos under old vinyl floors and floor tiles
Australian manufacturers produced vinyl flooring and tiles containing asbestos before the 1980s, with products still in use up to 1990 and at least one well-known brand on the market until 1979. The asbestos could be incorporated as backing on the tile or through the tile material itself, at a substantial proportion of the product. The paint-on adhesives used to fix these floors to floorboards or slabs may also contain asbestos, and the underlay beneath can include asbestos cement flat sheeting or asbestos felt.
There is a trap here that catches renovators regularly: non-asbestos flooring was often laid straight over the top of the old material to avoid the cost of removing it. So a floor that is clearly modern may be sitting directly on an asbestos one, and the discovery happens mid-demolition. That is why the age of the house, not the age of the visible floor, is what should trigger testing.
Only a laboratory test at an accredited facility confirms asbestos. Where it is present, a licensed asbestos removalist is required for any friable material or for more than ten square metres of non-friable material; below that threshold in New South Wales a homeowner or their tradesperson may remove it, though using a licensed professional is recommended for any amount. Power tools and abrasive sanders must not be used on asbestos-containing material unless the equipment is designed to capture or suppress the fibres, which rules out the floor sander and the scraper that a flooring crew would otherwise reach for.
Flooring licences and which trade is allowed to do what
Licensing for flooring varies by state rather than being set nationally. Queensland has a specific QBCC class, floor finishing and covering (hard sector), which covers preparing, sanding and applying coatings to timber floors, installing cork, mosaic and block parquetry, installing pre-finished manufactured and engineered timber flooring, and applying epoxy and seamless floor coverings. In other states, flooring may fall inside a general building licence threshold, or sit outside licensing altogether depending on the value and the scope of the job.
Two parts of a flooring project frequently belong to someone else entirely. Asbestos removal beyond the unlicensed limit requires a licensed asbestos removalist, not a flooring contractor. Termite management work that involves applying chemicals is an occupational licence in its own right in every state — a flooring contractor who finds termite damage under a floor should be telling you to call a licensed pest technician, not offering to treat it. Ask your state building regulator what your job requires, and check the licence number you are given.
Signs a floor needs replacing rather than another repair
- Timber boards cupping across their width or lifting at the ends, which points to moisture arriving from below rather than a surface problem.
- Vinyl or laminate lifting, bubbling or opening at the joints, especially near a laundry, dishwasher or external door.
- Tiles that sound hollow when tapped, which means the bond to the substrate has failed and cracking will follow.
- Floors that bounce or feel soft underfoot in a suspended-floor house, which can indicate damaged or weakened subfloor timbers.
- Timber that breaks easily and reveals thin layers, or paint blistering over a skirting board, both of which can indicate termite damage rather than wear.
- Persistent musty smell from the floor area, which suggests trapped moisture that a new covering alone will not fix.
Keeping timber and hybrid floors stable through Australian humidity
Timber moves with the moisture in the air around it, and Australian humidity swings a long way between a dry inland winter and a humid coastal summer or a northern wet season. That movement is designed for: expansion gaps at the walls, under the skirting or covered by scotia, exist so the floor can grow without buckling. Blocking those gaps with a rigid fixing or a heavy built-in is a common cause of a floor lifting in its second summer.
Direct sun is the other quiet destroyer. North-facing and west-facing rooms take the strongest sunlight, and an unshaded run of glass will fade timber, bamboo and some vinyl products unevenly, leaving a visible line where a rug sat. Window coverings do more for a floor's appearance over a decade than any coating.
Water is the constant. Standing water at the dishwasher, the fridge line or an external door will find the joint in almost any floor covering eventually, and on a slab it has nowhere to evaporate downward. Wipe spills promptly, keep mats at external doors, and get plumbing leaks fixed quickly rather than living with them — the same damp conditions that damage a floor also attract termites.
Timber floors and termites: what to check before you choose
Subterranean termites are present across most of Australia and eat the cellulose in timber, which is why termite management is built into the rules for new houses. The National Construction Code requires a termite management system where a house is built in an area with a risk of subterranean termite attack and contains susceptible primary building elements, with AS 3660.1 the referenced standard. The same standard sets out the use of naturally termite-resistant timber and of preservative-treated timber as management options.
None of that makes timber flooring a bad choice — it makes the surrounding routine important. A new floor is laid over the top of whatever termite management the house has, and renovations that change garden beds, add a patio or alter the ground level next to the slab can compromise a management system that was working fine. Before committing to timber in a high-risk district, check that the house has a current termite management notice, that the inspection routine is being kept up, and that anything the flooring job changes about the building does not block the inspection zones the system depends on.
Consumer guarantees, written scopes and getting flooring quotes on LokalMatch
Australian Consumer Law guarantees that services are provided with due care and skill, are fit for the purpose you made known, and are delivered in a reasonable time where none was agreed, and these rights cannot be signed away. In flooring, the disputes that arise usually turn on things that should have been in the written scope from the start: who tests and prepares the subfloor, who removes and disposes of the old floor, what happens if asbestos is found, and how the expansion allowance is being handled.
LokalMatch connects you with the businesses that do it. Describe the floor once — the rooms, the existing surface, the age of the house, your postcode — and flooring contractors covering your area reach out to you directly. The contractors pay LokalMatch for those requests, which is the site's income; posting a job costs the homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not install flooring, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any of the businesses that respond.
Flooring Contractors: frequently asked questions
Why does my new floor need a moisture test if the slab looks dry?
Because a slab on ground is in contact with the soil and can pass moisture vapour upwards even when the surface feels and looks dry. That vapour attacks adhesives and swells timber-based products, causing failures months after installation. AS 1884:2021 covers subfloor preparation including moisture testing of concrete before resilient floor coverings are laid, and any competent installer will test rather than assume.
Could there be asbestos under my old kitchen vinyl?
It is quite possible if the house predates the 1990s. Australian vinyl tiles and sheet flooring made before the 1980s often contained asbestos in the tile itself or in its felt-like backing, and the adhesive and underlay may contain it too. Newer flooring was often laid straight over the old material, so a modern-looking floor is no guarantee. Have it tested by an accredited laboratory before anything is lifted or scraped.
Is timber flooring a bad idea where there are termites?
No, but it comes with obligations. Subterranean termites are found across most of Australia, and the National Construction Code requires a termite management system in new houses built where there is a risk of attack, referencing AS 3660.1, which also covers naturally termite-resistant and preservative-treated timber. Keep the house's termite management notice current, keep annual inspections going, and make sure nothing the flooring job changes blocks the inspection zones.
Do I need a licensed contractor to lay a new floor?
It depends on your state and the job. Queensland has a QBCC floor finishing and covering (hard sector) licence covering timber floor sanding and coating, parquetry, pre-finished engineered timber and epoxy and seamless coverings. Elsewhere, flooring may fall under a general building licence threshold or outside licensing entirely. Ask your state building regulator, and check any licence number on the public register.
Why has my timber floor cupped or lifted since it was laid?
The two usual causes are moisture from below and no room to move. Cupping across the width of boards generally points to moisture reaching the underside, often from an untested slab or a leak. Buckling or peaking usually means the expansion gaps at the walls were too small or have been bridged by a rigid fixing, so the floor had nowhere to expand as humidity rose.
Sources
- Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency: Vinyl flooring and tiles with asbestos
- SafeWork NSW: Asbestos, friable and non-friable removal rules
- QBCC: Floor finishing and covering (hard sector) licence
- Standards Australia: AS 1884:2021 Floor coverings, resilient sheet and tiles, installation practices
- National Construction Code: Part 3.4 Termite risk management
- ACCC: Consumer guarantees on services
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
What flooring contractors can help with
Common jobs homeowners hire flooring contractors for:
- Timber FlooringInstall and repair solid hardwood floors.
- Floor Sanding & PolishingSand, stain and refinish worn hardwood floors.
- Engineered HardwoodInstall engineered hardwood floors, including over concrete.
- Laminate FlooringInstall and replace laminate floors.
- Vinyl FlooringInstall sheet vinyl and vinyl tile floors.
- Luxury Vinyl PlankInstall luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and tile (LVT) floors.
- Carpet InstallationInstall new carpet in rooms and on stairs.
- Carpet RepairPatch, re-stretch and repair seams in carpet.
- Tile InstallationInstall floor and wall tile, backsplashes and shower tile.
- Tile RepairReplace cracked, loose or broken tiles.
- Grout RepairRegrout and seal tile floors, walls and showers.
- Epoxy FlooringApply epoxy and polyaspartic coatings to concrete floors.
- Garage FlooringCoat, tile or resurface garage floors.
- Concrete FloorsPolish, stain or resurface interior concrete floors.
- Floor LevellingLevel uneven or sagging floors before new flooring goes down.
- Heated FloorsInstall electric heating mats under tile and other flooring.
- Stair FlooringCover or replace stair treads, risers and nosings.
- Skirting BoardsInstall baseboards, quarter round and shoe moulding.
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What affects the cost of flooring
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare flooring contractors before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Flooring permits and local rules
Some flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about flooring
- ✦
Timber Flooring guide
Timber flooring is what most of the country calls a hardwood floor, and in Australia it is laid in three quite different situations: over a concrete slab poured on the ground, over a suspended timber subfloor with a…
Read guide - ✦
Floor Sanding & Polishing guide
Australians call this sanding and polishing, and the word polishing is misleading. Nothing is buffed the way stone is.
Read guide - ✦
Engineered Hardwood guide
An engineered board is a sandwich: a thin layer of real timber on top, a cross-laid core of plywood or high-density fibreboard beneath, and a balancing backing.
Read guide
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