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Grout Repair

Grout Repair near you

Grout repair renews the joints between tiles on a floor, a wall, a splashback or a shower: raking out grout that has cracked, crumbled, washed out or stained beyond cleaning, packing fresh grout into the joints, and sealing it afterwards where the grout calls for it. It also takes in the flexible joints where tile meets a bath, a shower base, a benchtop or a change of plane, which should hold a flexible sealant rather than grout and which fail in their own way and on their own timetable.

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One thing is worth saying plainly before any of the detail, because a great deal of money is wasted on not knowing it: grout is not waterproofing. In an Australian wet area the waterproof layer is the membrane beneath the tiles and behind the walls, applied and detailed to comply with AS 3740 as the National Construction Code housing provisions require. Grout is a filler between tiles. It keeps the tiled surface intact and sheds water at the surface, but it has never been what stops water reaching the frame, and no amount of regrouting will turn it into that.

That distinction decides which jobs regrouting can honestly fix. Worn, stained, cracked or missing joints on a sound substrate are exactly its territory. A shower that is leaking into the room next door is not, and being sold a regrout as the cure for that is the single most common disappointment in this trade.

Telling grout that needs repair from grout that only needs cleaning

Cleaning brings back grout that is merely dirty. Repair is for joints that have physically failed or that are letting water through, and a few checks separate the two before anyone quotes.

  • Grout that crumbles when you drag a key along it, or that cracks along the joint, has failed as a material and will not be restored by scrubbing.
  • Gaps, pinholes and low spots where the grout has worn or washed away give water a direct path into the bed beneath the tiles.
  • Grout that stays dark for hours after a shower, or staining that returns immediately after cleaning, shows the joints are soaking up and holding water.
  • Cracks that follow a single line through several joints, or that come straight back after a regrout, are reporting movement under the tile rather than bad grout.
  • Split, peeling or blackened sealant along a bath, shower base or benchtop is a separate failure from the grout and is fixed with new sealant, not new grout.
  • Loose or drummy tiles alongside failing grout mean the trouble sits under the tiles, and regrouting over it simply hides the evidence.
  • Mould along the joints that keeps coming back after cleaning is usually a ventilation and moisture problem as much as a grout one.

Cement, epoxy and premixed grouts: what should go back in

The grout going back into the joints does not have to be the same kind that came out, but it does have to suit the joint width, the tile surface and how wet the room actually gets.

  • Sanded cement grout: the traditional choice for wider joints, straightforward to work with but porous, so it stains and generally benefits from a sealer.
  • Unsanded cement grout: for narrow joints and for polished or soft-glazed tiles that the sand in a sanded grout could scratch, with the same porosity to manage.
  • Polymer-modified cement grout: additives improve strength and reduce absorption compared with plain cement grout, though sealing is often still recommended.
  • Epoxy grout: highly resistant to staining, water and many chemicals and needs no sealer, but it sets quickly and must be cleaned off the tile face promptly, so it rewards an experienced hand.
  • Premixed urethane and acrylic grouts: ready to use and stain resistant, with cure times and wet-area limitations that vary by product and must be read.
  • Changing type: new grout bonds poorly to remnants of the old, so switching from cement to epoxy means raking the joints out fully rather than skimming them.

Raking out, repacking and curing new grout, and the dust it raises

A proper regrout removes the old grout to a consistent depth with a grout saw, a carbide scraper or an oscillating tool, without chipping the glazed edges of the tiles. Scraping off only a surface skin is the classic shortcut and the classic failure: the new grout ends up too shallow to bond and cracks out again within months. The joints are then vacuumed clean, dampened if the product requires it, and packed full with grout worked diagonally across the joints, tooled to an even profile, and the haze wiped off the tile face before it sets hard.

Cement-based grout then has to cure before it is sealed or gets wet, and the label sets that time — which stretches out in a cool room through a southern winter, when June to August brings the slowest drying of the year. Plan on using another shower for a few days rather than testing it early.

Grinding out old cement grout raises respirable crystalline silica dust, and this is the part homeowners rarely anticipate. SafeWork NSW describes crystalline silica as a natural mineral found in products such as sand, concrete and granite and warns that microscopic silica dust particles can settle deep in the lungs, causing serious illness and death, and notes that crystalline silica laws changed in 2024. The controls it names include wet dust suppression, on-tool dust extraction and local exhaust ventilation, with water used to control dust when cutting materials such as brick or concrete and on-tool dust capture described as an effective way to reduce exposure. Where a respirator is used it must be fit tested at the start and every 12 months, against a workplace exposure standard of 0.05 milligrams per cubic metre averaged over eight hours.

Movement joints and flexible sealant: where grout does not belong

Grout is rigid, so it cracks wherever two surfaces move independently of one another: the internal corners of a shower, the junction where wall tile meets the floor, the perimeter of a tiled floor, and anywhere tile meets a bath, a benchtop, a window frame or a different material altogether. Those junctions are meant to hold a flexible sealant suited to wet areas, often colour-matched to the grout. A crack running neatly up every internal corner of a shower is the signature of someone having grouted a joint that always needed sealant.

Sealant is a wearing part with a shorter life than grout, and it is replaced rather than patched. The old bead is cut and scraped out completely, the residue removed and the joint dried thoroughly before a new bead is laid and tooled, because fresh sealant over old sealant or over mould traps moisture and peels away. Larger tiled floors also need movement joints within the tiled field itself, placed as the installation instructions require; grouting over one brings the cracking straight back and takes the new grout with it.

Mould in grout, humidity and ventilation in an Australian bathroom

Black spotting along grout lines and sealant beads is the most common complaint in an Australian bathroom, and it is reporting moisture at least as much as it is reporting dirty grout. NSW Health puts the mechanism simply: mould needs moisture and nutrients to grow, and it may grow indoors in wet or moist areas that lack adequate ventilation, including walls or wallpaper, ceilings and bathroom tiles. A bathroom that is humid for hours after every shower is a bathroom that will keep regrowing mould in its joints no matter how often the grout is replaced.

Humidity is the harder half of the problem along the subtropical coast and through a northern wet season, when the outside air brings little drying power with it and a closed-up house holds moisture for days. Running the exhaust fan during and well after a shower, opening the room up when the outside air is drier, squeegeeing the walls and screen down, and leaving the screen door ajar all do more for grout than any product does.

There is a health reason to deal with it rather than live with it. NSW Health lists the effects of mould exposure as a runny or blocked nose, irritation of the eyes and skin, and sometimes wheezing. For routine clean-up of mouldy surfaces the same factsheet suggests a mild detergent, or vinegar diluted in water at four parts vinegar to one part water. Mould that has grown into a silicone bead cannot be scrubbed back out, so that bead is cut away and replaced once the joint has dried properly.

When regrouting will not fix the leak

Regrouting renews the surface of a shower. It cannot repair the waterproofing behind it, and when water has already reached the substrate, the evidence usually turns up outside the shower rather than in it. The housing provisions require the shower floor to be waterproof including any hob or step-down and the shower walls to be waterproof not less than 1800 millimetres above the floor substrate, with wet area building elements complying with AS 3740; when water is getting past all of that, the membrane or its detailing is what has failed.

  • Fresh grout packed into a wet, soft wall cracks and releases again, and it conceals rot or mould spreading behind the tiles in the meantime.
  • Peeling paint, swollen skirting or a damp patch on the other side of the shower wall means water is already in the wall cavity.
  • A stain on the ceiling of the room below an upstairs bathroom is a leak, not a grout problem, and it needs opening up rather than sealing over.
  • The leak may not be the tiling at all — a shower arm, a mixer or a floor waste can produce identical symptoms, which is a plumber's call to make.
  • A careful tradesperson presses the tiles, takes moisture readings or lifts a tile to inspect the substrate before quoting a regrout on a leaking shower.
  • Where the substrate is sound and dry, a regrout with new flexible sealant at the corners and the base genuinely does restore the surface and is worth doing.

Licensing: why waterproofing is its own trade in Queensland

A regrout on its own is minor work, but the moment a repair reaches the membrane it changes category, and the licensing makes the distinction clearly. Queensland treats waterproofing as a separate QBCC licence class from tiling: the waterproofing class covers applying, installing and repairing waterproofing including surface preparation, and applying or installing material or systems for preventing moisture penetration, while the wall and floor tiling class covers cutting and fixing tile to floors, walls, hearths, fireplaces, spas and swimming pools, constructing terrazzo, and applying waterproofing for wall and floor tiling.

New South Wales also licenses both. Waterproofing is defined there as any protective treatment of a home to prevent water or moisture getting into it, and the protective treatment of wet areas of a home such as a shower to stop the unwanted escape of water from those areas, with its own Certificate III qualification pathway. Wall and floor tiling work is a licensed trade in its own right and expressly includes waterproofing wet areas to get them ready for tiling. A contractor licence is required for residential building or trade work valued above a set figure in labour and materials including GST, which a regrout may fall below and a rebuilt shower will not.

So the question to ask is simple and specific: if this turns out to be a membrane failure rather than a grout failure, who does that part of the work and under which licence. Check the licence number on the regulator's public register before the job starts, not after the tiles are off the wall.

What to get in writing, your consumer rights, and finding the trade on LokalMatch

Australian Consumer Law gives you guarantees on this work that cannot be excluded by anything in a contract: an acceptable level of care and skill, fitness for any purpose you made known, and supply within a reasonable time where no time frame was agreed. The ACCC is clear that the basic rights covered by consumer guarantees cannot be taken away by anything a business says or does. Given how often a regrout is sold as a fix for a leak, the scope is where you protect yourself: whether the joints are being raked out to full depth or skimmed, which grout is going in, where flexible sealant is being used instead of grout, how the dust will be controlled, how long before the shower can be used again, and what the tradesperson will do if the substrate turns out to be wet.

LokalMatch is how you reach the people who do this. You describe the job once — the room, the extent of the grout, whether it is a shower or a splashback, whether anything is leaking, and your postcode — and tilers and waterproofers covering your area get in touch with you. They pay LokalMatch for the requests they take on, which is how the platform is funded, while describing a job costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not regrout or waterproof anything, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any business that contacts you, so the licence check and the reference check remain yours to make.

Grout Repair: frequently asked questions

Is grout waterproof?

No, and this is the most useful thing to understand before spending money. Grout fills the joints between tiles and sheds water at the surface, but the waterproof layer in an Australian wet area is the membrane beneath the tiles and behind the walls, which the housing provisions require to comply with AS 3740, with the shower floor waterproof including any hob or step-down and the shower walls waterproof not less than 1800 millimetres above the floor substrate. Regrouting renews a surface; it does not create waterproofing that was never there.

Can new grout go over old grout?

Only where enough of the old grout has been removed to give the new grout real depth to bond into. A thin skim over existing grout is the most common shortcut in this trade, and it flakes and cracks out within months because there is nothing for it to hold on to. A proper repair rakes the joints out to a consistent depth first, which is most of the labour in the job.

Why does my new grout keep cracking in the same place?

Usually because it is filling a joint that needed flexible sealant instead. Internal corners, the junction where the wall meets the floor, the perimeter of a tiled floor and the edge against a bath or benchtop all move independently, and rigid grout cracks there every time. Cracks that follow one line across a floor instead point to movement in the substrate below, which regrouting cannot address on its own.

Should the corners of my shower be grouted or sealed?

Sealed, with a flexible sealant suited to wet areas and ideally colour-matched to the grout. Internal corners and the joint at the bath or shower base move slightly with the house and with temperature, so grout placed there cracks and falls out. Grout belongs in the flat joints between tiles. If every internal corner in your shower has a neat crack up it, someone grouted a joint that should have been sealed.

How do I stop mould coming back in the grout?

By dealing with the moisture, not just the surface. NSW Health notes that mould needs moisture and nutrients to grow and grows in wet or moist areas that lack adequate ventilation, including bathroom tiles, so running the exhaust fan during and after a shower, squeegeeing the walls, and airing the room out when the outside air is drier does more than any cleaner. For routine clean-up NSW Health suggests a mild detergent or vinegar diluted four parts to one part water. Mould grown into a silicone bead has to be cut out and replaced.

Is epoxy grout worth it in a shower?

It resists water, staining and chemicals well and needs no sealer, which suits showers and splashbacks and cuts down the ongoing maintenance. It is harder to install, sets quickly and has to be cleaned off the tile face before it hardens, so it asks for an experienced installer. What it will not do is stop a leak: the waterproofing behind the tiles still has to be sound, whatever is in the joints.

Can I regrout just part of a shower or floor?

You can, but new grout rarely matches old joints exactly even in the same colour and brand, because the existing grout has aged, absorbed minerals from the water and picked up stains. Many tilers will regrout a whole wall or a whole floor for that reason, so that the finish reads as even rather than patched. Ask to see the new grout against the old before the whole job is committed.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 Housing Provisions Part 10.2: wet area waterproofing, AS 3740 and required heights
  2. NSW Health: mould, ventilation, health effects and cleaning
  3. SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica, health risk and the 2024 law changes
  4. SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica controls, fit testing and the exposure standard
  5. QBCC: waterproofing trade licence scope
  6. QBCC: wall and floor tiling trade licence scope
  7. NSW Government: waterproofing work licence and qualifications
  8. NSW Government: wall and floor tiling work licence
  9. ACCC: consumer guarantees for services

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of grout repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare tile installers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask tile installers before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Grout repair permits and local rules

Some grout repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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