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Timber Flooring

Timber Flooring near you

Timber flooring is what most of the country calls a hardwood floor, and in Australia it is laid in three quite different situations: over a concrete slab poured on the ground, over a suspended timber subfloor with a ventilated space beneath, and over an existing floor that is being covered or replaced. Which of those you have decides the fixing method, the underlay, the moisture precautions and a good deal of the price, so it is the first thing any installer should establish on site.

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Two site facts matter more here than the species of timber you pick. The first is moisture from below. A slab on ground sits on soil, and the National Construction Code housing provisions require a vapour barrier under it — polyethylene film of a nominal thickness, lapped and sealed at service penetrations — with the site classified in accordance with AS 2870. Older slabs may have a barrier that was damaged or never installed to that specification, which is why a moisture reading, not a look and a feel, is what tells an installer whether timber can go down.

The second is the age of the house. Any Australian house built or renovated before 1990 could contain asbestos, and old floor coverings, their adhesives and their underlays are among the places it turns up. That is a demolition question rather than a flooring question, and it has to be answered before anyone lifts an old covering or starts a sander.

Solid, engineered, parquetry and overlay: the timber floors sold in Australia

Australian suppliers use these terms fairly consistently, and each one implies a different fixing method and a different tolerance for a damp base. Ask which of them a quote is actually priced on, because the labour differs as much as the material does.

  • Solid strip and board flooring: milled from one piece of timber, usually secret-nailed to battens or a timber subfloor, and able to be sanded back and recoated repeatedly.
  • Engineered boards: a timber wear layer over a cross-laid core, sold either for direct-stick to a slab or as a floating floor, and far less inclined to cup when humidity swings.
  • Pre-finished boards: coated in the factory, so there is no sanding dust or coating smell in the house and the room can be walked on sooner, at the cost of a factory edge detail you cannot change.
  • Site-finished boards: laid raw, then sanded flat and coated in place, which gives a continuous coating across the joints and lets the colour be matched to an existing floor.
  • Mosaic and block parquetry: small blocks laid in a pattern, a specialised job that the Queensland licence class for floor finishing and covering names separately from strip flooring.
  • Overlay flooring: thin boards laid over an existing sound floor, used when the existing surface is flat and level and the height change at doors can be absorbed.

Subfloor moisture, levelling and acclimatisation before the first board goes down

Preparation is where a timber floor is won or lost. On a slab, the installer needs a moisture reading taken to the method the flooring manufacturer specifies, and a plan for what happens if the reading is too high — a surface moisture barrier, a different product, or simply waiting. A quote that says nothing about moisture on a ground-floor slab has priced the easy version of the job.

Flatness comes next. A slab is finished to a building tolerance, not a flooring tolerance, so grinding the high spots and filling the low ones with a levelling compound is ordinary preparation rather than an extra. On a suspended floor the equivalent work is checking for movement, replacing damaged boards or sheets, and making sure the subfloor ventilation openings are clear, since a poorly ventilated underfloor space feeds moisture straight into the new timber.

Then the timber has to be allowed to reach the moisture content it will live at. Boards delivered from a coastal warehouse into an air-conditioned inland house will change dimension, and the point of acclimatisation is to get that change over with before the boards are fixed rather than after. The expansion allowance at the walls, hidden under the skirting or a scotia, exists for the same reason: the floor has to be able to grow in a humid February without lifting in the middle of the room.

Who is licensed to lay and sand a timber floor in your state

Queensland is the most explicit. The QBCC issues a floor finishing and covering (hard sector) trade licence, and its scope covers preparing, sanding and applying coatings to timber floors, installing and repairing cork flooring, installing and repairing mosaic and block parquetry including preparation and coating, installing pre-finished manufactured and engineered timber flooring, installing and repairing non-structural strip timber flooring, and preparing, applying and finishing epoxy and seamless floor coverings. A licensee may do a small amount of incidental work from another class, but not work reserved to occupational licences such as plumbing or pest control.

New South Wales has no timber-flooring trade class at all. Instead, a contractor licence is required for residential building and trade work once the job passes a set value in labour and materials including GST, so a whole-house floor commonly needs a licensed contractor while a small repair may not. The licence categories New South Wales does name separately are the ones your flooring job may run into for other reasons — general building work, wall and floor tiling, and waterproofing.

The practical step is the same everywhere: ask which licence the business holds and in which state, then check the number on that regulator's public register before you accept a quote. Do not accept a trade association logo as a substitute for a licence number.

Asbestos under an old floor, and why it stops a sander

Before a timber floor is exposed, refinished or replaced, the material coming off has to be identified. SafeWork NSW puts the era plainly: any house or building constructed or renovated prior to 1990 could contain asbestos, and it names flooring alongside kitchens, bathrooms, roofs, ceilings and walls as a common location. Under an old covering, the asbestos may be in the adhesive that stuck it down or in an underlay of asbestos cement flat sheeting or asbestos felt, none of which announce themselves once the covering is lifted.

This is the point where a flooring job can stop being a flooring job. Power tools such as sanders and grinders may only be used on asbestos-containing material where the tool is enclosed during use or designed to capture or suppress the fibres, and high-pressure water spray, jets and compressed air must never be used on it. A drum sander run across an unidentified adhesive residue is precisely the wrong move.

The removal thresholds are set by work health and safety law rather than by the building rules. In New South Wales a homeowner, or a tradesperson acting for them, may remove less than ten square metres of non-friable asbestos, while all friable asbestos must be removed by a Class A licensed asbestos removalist and a licence is required for more than ten square metres of non-friable material. SafeWork NSW recommends using a licensed professional for any amount. Waste goes to a landfill licensed to accept asbestos, and larger quantities are tracked through the state's waste tracking system.

Timber floors in termite country: the durable notice tells you what you have

Termites are a design consideration in Australian houses rather than an afterthought, and the rules are in the building code. The housing provisions require a termite management system where a Class 1 or Class 10 building is built in an area with a risk of subterranean termite attack and a primary building element is susceptible to attack, with the system complying with AS 3660.1 or tested to the relevant section of AS 3660.3.

What makes this useful to a homeowner choosing a floor is the paperwork. A durable notice must be permanently fixed to the building in a prominent location such as the meter box, and it must state the system used, the date it was installed, the life expectancy of any chemical used as listed on the appropriate authority's register label, and the installer's or manufacturer's recommendations for the scope and frequency of future inspections. Read yours before you commit to timber: it tells you what protects the house and how often someone is meant to look.

A new floor does not change any of that, but the work around it can. Re-levelling ground outside, altering a patio or building up against the slab edge can interfere with the inspection zones a system depends on, so mention any external work to whoever inspects the property.

Living with a timber floor through Australian humidity and sun

  • Expect seasonal movement: fine gaps opening in a dry winter and closing again in a humid summer are the floor behaving normally, not a defect.
  • Keep the expansion allowance clear — a heavy built-in, a rigid fixing through the boards or a hard-packed skirting line takes away the room the floor needs to move.
  • North-facing and west-facing rooms take the strongest sun in the southern hemisphere, and unshaded glass will lighten or darken the timber unevenly, leaving a line where a rug sat.
  • Deal with water immediately: a slow leak at a dishwasher, fridge line or external door will cup boards from underneath long before the surface looks wrong.
  • Use felt pads under furniture and a mat at every external door, since grit tracked in does more damage to a coating than foot traffic does.
  • Ask at handover which coating was used and what recoating it accepts, because a maintenance coat applied before the timber itself is worn is far cheaper than a full sand back.

Timing a timber floor in the southern hemisphere

Australian seasons run the other way, and flooring schedules follow them. Summer is December to February, autumn March to May, winter June to August and spring September to November. The mild shoulder months are the easiest time to lay and coat a floor across the southern half of the country: temperatures are moderate, the house can be opened up for ventilation while coatings cure, and the timber is not being asked to acclimatise to an extreme.

Mid-summer brings two separate problems. Coatings can skin over faster than they flow out in a hot room, and the house is often sealed up with the air conditioning running, which gives the timber an indoor climate quite unlike the one it will live in for the rest of the year. In a northern wet season the issue reverses: high humidity slows curing and pushes moisture into everything on site, so builders generally schedule floors for the dry.

Winter is a workable season almost everywhere in Australia, with the practical constraints being short days, slower drying and heavy morning dew on southern elevations rather than frost. Whatever the month, the useful question to ask an installer is how long the boards will sit in the room before they are fixed, and what the house's conditions will be while they do.

Consumer guarantees, a written scope and getting timber flooring quotes on LokalMatch

Australian Consumer Law gives you guarantees on services that a business cannot contract out of: the work must be carried out with an acceptable level of care and skill, it must be fit for any purpose you made known, and where no time was agreed it must be supplied within a reasonable time — with the nature of the work, the weather and the availability of materials all bearing on what is reasonable. In timber flooring the arguments usually start with something that was never written down, so get the scope to state who tests and prepares the subfloor, what happens if the moisture reading is too high, who removes and disposes of the old covering, how the expansion allowance is handled at walls and doorways, and what coating is being applied.

LokalMatch is how you reach the businesses that lay timber. The details that decide a hardwood quote are specific — the species and grade you are after, whether the subfloor is a slab or bearers and joists, how flat it is now, and whether the boards are being finished on site or arrive pre-finished — so say those once and the contractors covering your postcode come back to you directly. They pay LokalMatch for the requests they take; describing a job costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not lay floors, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who responds, so licences, insurance and past work remain yours to check.

Timber Flooring: frequently asked questions

Can timber flooring be laid over a concrete slab in Australia?

Yes, and it is the normal situation in most of the country. Engineered boards are commonly direct-stuck or floated over a slab, and solid overlay flooring can be fixed to battens. What matters is the moisture in the slab. The housing provisions require a vapour barrier of polyethylene film under a slab on ground, lapped and sealed around penetrations, but an older or damaged barrier is exactly why the installer should take a moisture reading to the manufacturer's method before committing.

Why do gaps appear between my boards in winter?

Timber gives up moisture when the air around it is dry and takes it back when the air is humid, so boards shrink slightly in a dry inland winter, which runs June to August here, and swell again through a humid summer. Fine, even gaps that close up later are normal seasonal movement. Gaps that stay open, boards that cup across their width, or a floor that peaks in the middle point to something else, usually moisture from below or an expansion allowance that was too small.

Do I need a licensed contractor to install timber flooring?

It depends on the state and the size of the job. Queensland has a dedicated QBCC floor finishing and covering (hard sector) licence covering timber floor preparation, sanding and coating, parquetry, pre-finished manufactured and engineered timber flooring, non-structural strip flooring and epoxy or seamless coverings. New South Wales has no flooring-specific class, so the general requirement applies: residential building and trade work above a set value in labour and materials including GST needs a contractor licence.

Is it safe to sand an old floor in a house from the 1970s?

Not until the materials have been identified. SafeWork NSW warns that any house built or renovated before 1990 could contain asbestos, and flooring is one of the places it appears — in old coverings, in the adhesive beneath them, or in an underlay of asbestos cement sheeting or asbestos felt. Sanders and grinders may only be used on asbestos-containing material if the tool is enclosed or designed to capture the fibres, so testing comes first and the sander comes later.

Does a new timber floor affect my termite protection?

The floor itself does not replace or cancel the house's termite management system, but you should know what that system is. The housing provisions require a durable notice fixed somewhere prominent like the meter box, stating the system installed, its date, the life expectancy of any chemical used and the recommended scope and frequency of inspections. Keep those inspections going, and tell the inspector about any work that changed ground levels or paving against the house.

When is the best time of year to have a timber floor installed?

Autumn and spring are usually the easiest across southern Australia, because the house can be ventilated while coatings cure and the timber is acclimatising to moderate conditions rather than an extreme. Summer work is fine if the room is not baking or sealed under air conditioning that is nothing like its year-round state, and in the tropical north the dry season is preferred over the wet, when humidity slows curing.

Sources

  1. NCC 2022 Housing Provisions Part 4.2: footings, slabs and vapour barriers
  2. NCC 2022 Housing Provisions Part 3.4: termite risk management and the durable notice
  3. QBCC: floor finishing and covering (hard sector) trade licence scope
  4. SafeWork NSW: asbestos in buildings constructed or renovated before 1990
  5. SafeWork NSW: asbestos, prohibited tools and removal licensing
  6. NSW Government: general building work contractor licence
  7. ACCC: consumer guarantees that apply to services

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of hardwood flooring

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Hardwood flooring permits and local rules

Some hardwood flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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