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Concrete Contractors

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Concrete is the ground floor of most Australian homes and the surface of most Australian driveways, paths, patios and shed floors. Concreting work covers new slabs and footings, driveways and crossovers, paths and verandah floors, shed and garage slabs, exposed aggregate and coloured finishes, and the repair or replacement of cracked and sunken existing work.

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What decides whether a slab lasts is almost entirely underneath it. Large parts of Australia sit on reactive clay that swells when it takes up moisture and shrinks when it dries, and that seasonal movement is what cracks slabs, lifts paths and pulls driveways away from garages. The National Construction Code deals with this by requiring the foundations where footings and slabs are located to be classified in accordance with AS 2870, the Australian Standard for residential slabs and footings. Sites are classified from stable sand through moderately, highly and extremely reactive clay to problem sites, and the classification drives the design.

The other Australian constants are termites and water. A termite management system is required where a house is built in an area where subterranean termites are a potential risk and the building elements are susceptible, and surface water has to be shed away from the building rather than towards it. A good concreter talks about the site classification, the base, the reinforcement, the falls and the joints before talking about the finish.

Site classification and base preparation: the part you never see again

The ABCB Housing Provisions require that the foundations where footings and slabs are to be located be classified in accordance with AS 2870, and where a site is classified as highly reactive, extremely reactive or a problem site, the design and construction must be taken from AS 2870 itself. The classification also gets divided further by the depth at which ground movement is expected, so two sites with the same surface soil can need different designs.

The Housing Provisions also set bearing expectations: a slab needs natural soil with an allowable bearing pressure of not less than 50 kilopascals, or properly compacted controlled or rolled fill, while edge beams and pad footings need at least 100 kilopascals. Fill that was tipped rather than engineered and compacted is a very common cause of a slab that settles unevenly a few years later.

For a driveway or path, the same logic applies in miniature. Ask how deep the excavation goes, what base material is used and how it is compacted, how the ground is graded so water runs away from the house, and whether anything is being poured over soft or filled ground. Ask also whether underground services will be located before digging, because a concrete crew with a saw and an excavator is exactly who hits an unmarked service.

Concrete grade, reinforcement and the membrane under the slab

There are defined minimums in the Housing Provisions for housing slabs and footings, and they are worth knowing because they appear on the docket. Concrete is required to reach a characteristic compressive strength of 20 megapascals at 28 days, denoted N20 grade, with a maximum nominal aggregate size of 20 millimetres and a nominal 100 millimetre slump. Anything different should be a deliberate engineering decision, not an accident at the batching plant.

  • The vapour barrier under a house slab is a specified product: polyethylene film of 0.2 millimetres nominal thickness, branded continuously as an AS 2870 concrete underlay, lapped not less than 200 millimetres at joints and sealed around penetrations.
  • Reinforcement is chosen to suit the site classification and the design, and is only doing its job if it is supported on bar chairs at the right height rather than lying on the ground.
  • Control and construction joints are designed in so that the concrete cracks where you decided rather than where it chooses.
  • The finish, whether broomed, exposed aggregate, honed or coloured, affects slip resistance as well as appearance, which matters on a sloping driveway and around a pool.
  • Termite management systems must comply with AS 3660.1, or be tested to AS 3660.3, and steel, concrete, masonry, fibre-reinforced cement and naturally resistant or preservative-treated timber are treated as not subject to termite attack.
  • A durable notice for the termite management system must be permanently fixed in a prominent place such as the meter box, recording the system, the date and the recommended inspection frequency.

Curing and early loading: why the first week decides the next decade

Concrete does not dry, it cures, and rushing that is how surfaces end up dusty, weak and crazed. The Housing Provisions require that slab surfaces be moist cured for seven days and that loading of concrete slabs must not occur for a minimum of seven days after pouring. Ask when you can walk on it and when you can drive on it, and get the answer in writing, because driving a loaded vehicle onto a new driveway too early is a self-inflicted failure that no warranty will cover.

After that, maintenance is mostly about water and movement. Keep the falls working so water runs away from the building, keep joints clear and sealed where they were designed to be sealed, and deal with tree roots before they lift a path rather than after. Resealing a decorative finish is periodic work and the interval depends on the product and the sun exposure it gets.

Watch the edges. Soil that erodes or settles away from the edge of a slab or path, or a downpipe discharging at the edge of a driveway, undermines the support and produces an edge crack that looks structural but started as a drainage problem.

Cracks, movement and cutting into existing concrete safely

Not all cracks mean the same thing. Fine surface crazing and narrow shrinkage cracks that appear early are common and usually cosmetic. Cracks that open and close with the seasons on a clay site are ground movement, which is the behaviour AS 2870 exists to manage. Cracks that step, widen over time, or come with a slab that has dropped or lifted at one corner are a structural question for an engineer, not a patching job. Near the coast, spalling concrete with rust staining is usually corrosion of reinforcement with too little cover, and grinding the rust and filling it does not stop the process.

Cutting, grinding or jackhammering existing concrete is the other risk, and Australia has tightened the rules around it. Safe Work Australia identifies concrete cutting, angle grinding, jackhammering and chiselling of concrete or masonry as activities that generate respirable crystalline silica, which causes silicosis and lung cancer, with a workplace exposure standard of 0.05 milligrams per cubic metre over an eight hour average. Dry cutting or grinding without on-tool dust extraction, water suppression or local exhaust ventilation generates levels far above that standard.

The practical test when you are watching a quote being carried out: a crew cutting your old driveway should be using water suppression or on-tool extraction and respiratory protection. If they are dry cutting into a cloud of dust, that dust is going into your yard, your house and their lungs.

Approvals, crossovers and licensing for concreting work

Concreting sits in an awkward approval space. A slab that forms part of a house or a garage is building work; a path in the backyard usually is not. A new or widened driveway crossover, where the driveway meets the kerb and the road reserve, almost always needs your council's separate approval and has to be built to the council's specification, and that approval is not the same thing as a building permit. Retaining edges and retaining walls have their own thresholds, exempt in some circumstances and requiring consent or a certificate in others depending on height and proximity to a boundary. Ask your council which approvals apply at your address before work is scheduled.

Licensing follows the usual state pattern. New South Wales requires a contractor licence for residential building and trade work above the threshold in the Home Building Act, Queensland requires a QBCC licence above its threshold, Victoria registers building practitioners, Western Australia registers builders through the Building Services Board once builder-work passes the value set for the building class, and South Australia requires a building work contractor's licence with a public register you can search. Verify the licence class on the regulator's own register.

LokalMatch fits at the front of that process. Describe the concreting job once, including the area, the slope, whether it is a new pour or a replacement, and how a truck will reach the site, and matched concreters get in touch with you directly. Those businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not pour concrete, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so the licence check, the approvals and the reference visits are still yours to make.

Statutory cover and what to agree before the truck arrives

Where concreting forms part of residential building work above the relevant state threshold, the statutory schemes apply: home building compensation cover in New South Wales, obtained by the contractor before work starts or any money is taken and responding to major defects for six years and other losses for two years, the Home Warranty Scheme in Queensland with the premium paid by the contractor and built into the contract price, domestic building insurance in Victoria with the certificate provided before any money is demanded, and building indemnity insurance in South Australia for approval-requiring work. Standalone landscaping-scale concreting may fall below those thresholds, in which case the Australian Consumer Law guarantees are your protection: acceptable care and skill, fitness for the purpose you made known, and supply within a reasonable time.

Because cracking is the thing most likely to be argued about later, agree in writing beforehand what the contractor will and will not treat as a defect, where the control joints go, what surface finish and tolerance you are getting, and what is being done about drainage. A quote that says the falls will take water away from the house is worth more than one that doesn't mention it.

Keep the delivery dockets showing the concrete grade and slump, any engineering design or site classification report, the termite management durable notice details and the council crossover approval together with the contract.

Pouring concrete through an Australian year

Seasons change how a pour behaves, and the Australian calendar puts summer in December, January and February and winter in June, July and August. Hot, dry, windy conditions pull water out of the surface faster than it can bleed, which is what causes plastic shrinkage cracking, so summer pours are often started early in the day and need a real curing plan rather than a promise. In the tropical north, the wet season from roughly October to April makes both access and the pour itself unpredictable, and the dry season from May to September is when this work tends to get scheduled.

Rain within hours of a pour can ruin a fresh surface, so ask what the contingency is if the forecast turns, and don't push a crew to pour into weather they are telling you is wrong. Cold mornings in the southern states slow the set and delay finishing, which changes how long the crew is on site rather than whether the job can proceed.

Plan the access, too. Concrete arrives by truck, and the question of where it can park, whether a pump is needed, and how the crew protects your gate, kerb and paths is a seasonal issue as well: a soft, wet yard in a southern winter is a different proposition from the same yard in February.

Concrete Contractors: frequently asked questions

Why do concrete driveways and paths crack so much in Australia?

Much of the country sits on reactive clay that swells with moisture and shrinks as it dries, so the ground under a slab moves seasonally. That is why the code requires the foundation to be classified under AS 2870 and the design to suit that classification. Jointing, reinforcement and drainage manage the movement; nothing eliminates it.

How long before I can drive on new concrete?

Longer than most people expect. The Housing Provisions require slab surfaces to be moist cured for seven days and prohibit loading a slab for at least seven days after pouring, and a driveway carrying vehicle loads is usually given more than that. Get the specific time in writing from your contractor and respect it, because early loading damage is not a warranty claim.

Do I need council approval for a new driveway?

For the crossover, where the driveway meets the kerb and the road reserve, almost certainly yes, and it must be built to the council's specification. The driveway inside your boundary may not need building approval, but retaining edges, walls above a certain height, and work close to a boundary can trigger separate requirements. Ask your council for your specific address.

Does concreting work need a licensed contractor?

Above the contract value threshold set by your state, yes, and the threshold differs in every state and territory. Smaller standalone jobs may sit below it, but the Australian Consumer Law guarantees still apply. Check the licence number on your state regulator's public register rather than taking it from the quote letterhead.

What is the durable notice I have heard about with termite protection?

Where a termite management system is installed, a durable notice must be permanently fixed in a prominent location such as the meter box, stating the system used, the date of installation, the life expectancy of any chemical used and the recommended scope and frequency of future inspections. If work disturbs the slab edge or the barrier, ask how the system is being reinstated.

Is the dust from cutting concrete actually dangerous?

Yes. Cutting, grinding and jackhammering concrete releases respirable crystalline silica, which causes silicosis and lung cancer, and Safe Work Australia is explicit that dry cutting without water suppression or on-tool extraction produces levels far above the workplace exposure standard. Expect to see wet cutting or dust extraction and respiratory protection on your job.

Sources

  1. NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 4.2 Footings, slabs and associated elements
  2. NCC: ABCB Housing Provisions Part 3.4 Termite risk management (AS 3660.1)
  3. Safe Work Australia: Silica in construction
  4. NSW Government: Building and trade contractor licences
  5. SA.GOV.AU: Building work contractor's licence
  6. QBCC: Queensland Home Warranty Scheme
  7. ACCC: Consumer guarantees for services
  8. Bureau of Meteorology: Solstices, equinoxes and the seasons

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of concrete

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and thickness of the area
  • Removal of the old surface
  • Excavation and base preparation
  • Finish, colour or pattern
  • Access for equipment and trucks
  • Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges

How to compare concrete contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
  • Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
  • Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
  • Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.

Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire

  • How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
  • Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
  • How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
  • What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?

When to call a pro for concrete

  • Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
  • Water pooling against the foundation after rain
  • Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways

Concrete permits and local rules

Some concrete work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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