Concrete Repair
Concrete Repair near you
Most concrete repair in Australia is not really a concrete problem. It is a steel problem. Reinforced concrete works because the concrete protects the steel inside it from moisture and air, and it does that by sheer thickness — the layer between the outermost reinforcement and the surface, which engineers call cover. When that layer is too thin, or has been cracked, drilled, ground or chipped away, the steel starts to corrode. Corroding steel expands, and because it is cast inside something rigid, the expansion pushes the concrete off in flakes and sheets.
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The Australian building rules put numbers on the protection. The ABCB Housing Provisions require footings and slabs-on-ground to have concrete cover between the outermost edge of the reinforcement, including ligatures and tie wire, and the surface of the concrete of not less than 40 mm to unprotected ground, 30 mm to a membrane in contact with the ground, 20 mm to an internal surface, and 40 mm to external exposure. Those figures explain why an exposed balcony or a coastal slab edge is a harder environment than the inside of a house.
The practical consequence is that a repair which fills the hole and leaves the cover as thin as it was will fail again, usually within a few years and often at the edge of the previous patch. A repair that is worth paying for removes the damaged concrete back past the corrosion, treats or replaces the steel, and rebuilds the cover. Everything else in a concrete repair quote is detail around that one idea.
The concrete repairs Australian homes actually need
- Spalling repair: removing loose and delaminated concrete over corroding reinforcement, treating the steel and rebuilding the section, the most common repair on balconies, slab edges and coastal structures.
- Crack injection: filling a structural crack with a resin or a cementitious grout, which restores continuity but does nothing about whatever caused the crack.
- Crack routing and sealing: opening a moving crack into a clean groove and filling it with a flexible sealant, which is the correct treatment when the crack is expected to keep moving.
- Surface repair and rendering: rebuilding a chipped, pitted or worn surface where the reinforcement is not involved.
- Joint repair: replacing failed sealant or a damaged arris at a control or isolation joint, which is a wearing part rather than a defect.
- Edge and arris repair: rebuilding a broken slab edge or step nosing, usually with a formed repair rather than a trowelled one.
- Structural strengthening: bonded plates, wraps or additional elements, which is engineering work and outside the scope of a repair contractor acting alone.
Reading damaged concrete before anyone quotes
- A rust stain running down from a crack or a corner, which is the clearest possible sign that the steel inside is corroding.
- A hollow sound when the surface is tapped with a hammer or a chain, which means the concrete has delaminated over the reinforcement even though it has not fallen off yet.
- Flakes and plates of concrete lifting off a soffit or a slab edge, which is spalling in progress.
- Cracks that follow the line of the reinforcement rather than running randomly, which points at corrosion rather than at shrinkage or movement.
- White crystalline deposit at a crack, which is efflorescence and tells you water is moving through the concrete.
- Cracks that change width between a wet season and a dry one, which are moving and need a flexible treatment rather than a rigid fill.
- Damage concentrated where a handrail, pergola post or awning is bolted in, which is usually a fixing that broke the cover and let moisture in.
Is this a defect, or is it just concrete?
Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide gives homeowners a way to answer that without an argument. For concrete floors it reproduces a damage classification drawn from AS 2870, which combines crack width with the change in offset measured from a 3 m straight edge placed over the defect. Hairline cracks under 0.3 mm with an offset under 8 mm are negligible; fine but noticeable cracks under 1.0 mm with an offset under 10 mm are very slight; distinct cracks under 2.0 mm with an offset under 15 mm are slight; wide cracks of 2 mm to 4 mm with 15 mm to 25 mm of offset are moderate; and gaps of 4 mm to 10 mm with more than 25 mm of offset are severe.
The guide then states which of those are defects: Category 3 and 4 cracks to slabs are defects, and Categories 1 and 2 are not. It also notes that local deviation of slope from the horizontal or vertical of more than 1:100 will normally be clearly visible, and that overall deviations in excess of 1:150 are undesirable, and that the past history of damage should be taken into account in judging whether it is stable or likely to increase.
Two other clauses are worth knowing before you commission a repair. The guide says repairs to exposed concrete slabs are defective within twelve months if they do not, as closely as practicable, match the existing work in appearance, colour and texture, while accepting that minor variations in finish are not defective. And where the slab is part of a termite management system, any repair is defective unless on completion the termite management system is appropriately reinstated in accordance with the NCC.
How a spalling repair is properly done
It starts with a survey rather than a patch. The whole element is sounded — tapped or chain-dragged — to map every delaminated area, not just the ones that have already fallen off. Repairing only the visible damage is how a balcony ends up being scaffolded three times in five years, because the hollow areas beside the patch fail next.
Then removal, and it goes further than people expect. The concrete is broken out well past the edge of the damage and, critically, behind the reinforcement rather than just up to it, so the steel can be cleaned all the way around. Corrosion products are removed, the steel is treated or supplemented, and any bar that has lost too much section is replaced or spliced — that last judgement belongs to an engineer, not to a repair operator.
Rebuilding then restores the section and the cover, using a repair mortar with a bond coat, formed and compacted rather than smeared, and cured properly. The finish is matched as closely as practicable, which is the standard Queensland's guide sets, though an honest contractor will tell you that a repair will always be visible to a degree. Finally the cause is addressed: a leaking joint, a failed balcony membrane, a downpipe discharging onto the slab, or a fixing that broke the cover.
Breaking out concrete is regulated dust work
Concrete is a crystalline silica substance, and cutting, grinding and breaking it produces respirable dust. SafeWork NSW lists concrete among the materials containing crystalline silica and states a workplace exposure standard for respirable crystalline silica of 0.05 mg per cubic metre averaged over eight hours, and names cutting, sanding and drilling as activities that create the fine dust.
Since 1 September 2024 that work has been more tightly regulated. The Work Health and Safety Amendment (Crystalline Silica Substances) Regulation 2024 amended the New South Wales Work Health and Safety Regulation 2017 to provide for stronger regulation of the processing of materials containing crystalline silica across all industries, with additional duties where processing is assessed as high risk: worker instruction, information and training on the health risks, a silica risk control plan based on the risk assessment, air monitoring with results given to the regulator, and health monitoring for workers.
For a homeowner, the honest use of that is as a screening question rather than an obligation. Ask what dust control the contractor uses — on-tool extraction, water suppression, exclusion of the area — and whether they have assessed the processing. A contractor who breaks out a balcony soffit dry, on a suburban street, with no extraction, is showing you how they approach the rest of the job as well.
Patch it, resurface it, or take it out
Patching is right when the damage is localised, the cause is identified and fixable, and the element is otherwise sound. It is the cheapest option and the one most likely to be recommended, which is exactly why the sounding survey matters — patching a mapped 20 per cent of a balcony soffit is a repair; patching the 5 per cent you can see is a deferral.
Resurfacing suits a slab whose surface has worn, dusted or pitted but whose reinforcement is intact and whose movement has stopped. An overlay or a bonded topping can give a new wearing surface without demolition. It is the wrong answer over active corrosion, because the corrosion continues underneath and will lift the new surface off in a few years.
Replacement becomes the sensible choice when the reinforcement has lost significant section over a large area, when the element has moved so far that the damage categories put it in the severe range, or when the cause cannot be fixed without taking the element apart anyway. That is an engineering judgement, and on a balcony, a suspended slab or anything structural, it should be made by a structural engineer rather than by the contractor who would be doing the repair.
What to require in the quote, and where to find the trade
Ask for the survey. A concrete repair quote should include the extent of delamination found by sounding, marked on a sketch or photograph, not just a square metre rate. Then the method: how far the breakout goes past the damage, how the steel is treated, what repair material is used, how the cover will be restored, how it will be cured and how the finish will be matched. And the cause: what is being done so it does not recur.
Where the concrete is structural — a balcony, a suspended slab, a beam, anything holding something up — get a structural engineer involved before the contractor, not after. The same applies where the slab forms part of a termite management system, because Queensland's guide is explicit that a repair to such a slab is defective unless the system is reinstated in accordance with the NCC.
Licensing is a state matter: Queensland runs a concreting licence class through the QBCC whose published scope is concreting including installing formwork, reinforcement and concrete, plus incidental work of another class, and New South Wales offers a licence check through Service NSW covering residential building work and the occupational trades. The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply on top. Post photographs of the damage, including any rust staining, on LokalMatch and ask each contractor whether they intend to sound the whole element before quoting.
Concrete Repair: frequently asked questions
Why does concrete flake off in sheets?
Because the steel inside is rusting. Corroding reinforcement expands, and the expansion pushes the concrete above it away in plates. It is a sign that the cover — the layer of concrete between the steel and the surface — was too thin or has been breached. The ABCB Housing Provisions require 40 mm of cover to unprotected ground and to external exposure, 30 mm to a membrane and 20 mm to an internal surface.
Is the crack in my slab a defect?
Queensland's guide gives a test. It classifies damage using crack width together with the change in offset from a 3 m straight edge, and states that Category 3 and 4 cracks to slabs are defects while Categories 1 and 2 are not. Category 3 is a wide crack of 2 mm to 4 mm with 15 mm to 25 mm of offset. Have it measured rather than judged by eye.
Can I just fill the crack myself?
For a hairline shrinkage crack in a path or a garage floor, a proprietary filler is reasonable. For anything with rust staining, a hollow sound nearby, or a crack that changes width with the seasons, filling it hides the problem while the steel keeps corroding. Those need diagnosis first, and a moving crack needs a flexible sealed joint rather than a rigid fill.
Why did my last concrete repair fail?
Usually one of three reasons: the breakout did not go far enough past the corroded steel, the repair did not restore full cover over the reinforcement, or the cause was never fixed. Failure at the edge of a previous patch is the classic signature of the first two. It is also why sounding the whole element rather than the visible damage matters.
Will the repair match the rest of the concrete?
Closely, not perfectly. Queensland's guide sets the standard as matching the existing work in appearance, colour and texture as closely as practicable, and it accepts that minor variations in finish are not defective. New concrete cures a different colour to old concrete and will keep changing for months. If appearance matters a great deal, consider a coating or a finish over the whole element.
Do I need an engineer?
For anything structural — a balcony, a suspended slab, a beam, a column, or reinforcement that has lost noticeable section — yes, and before the repair contractor rather than after. An engineer decides whether steel can be treated or must be replaced and whether the element can carry its loads meanwhile. For a cracked garden path, no.
Sources
- ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 4.2 footings, slabs and associated elements
- QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
- QBCC licence class: concreting
- SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica technical fact sheet
- SafeWork NSW: Work Health and Safety Amendment (Crystalline Silica Substances) Regulation 2024
- Service NSW: check a builder or tradesperson licence
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of concrete repair
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare concrete contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for concrete repair
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Concrete repair permits and local rules
Some concrete repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
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Concrete Driveways guide
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