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Engineered Hardwood

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An engineered board is a sandwich: a thin layer of real timber on top, a cross-laid core of plywood or high-density fibreboard beneath, and a balancing backing. It behaves far better than solid timber over an Australian concrete slab and in a humid coastal house, because the cross-lamination stops the board from moving across its width the way a solid board does. That stability is the entire reason the product exists.

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Two numbers decide whether a particular board is worth buying, and only one of them is usually on the showroom card. The first is the thickness of the timber wear layer, which sets whether the floor can ever be sanded and how many times. The second is the total board thickness, which along with the core material sets how the floor sounds and feels underfoot and how it copes with a point load. A thick-looking board with a wafer of timber on top is a laminate with a real-wood face, and it will not behave like a timber floor over twenty years.

The third question is one Australian law already asks on your behalf. Almost every engineered board sold here is imported, and the Illegal Logging Prohibition Act 2012 makes it an offence to import illegally logged timber and requires importers of regulated timber products to have a due diligence system before they bring them in. Somebody in your supply chain has had to answer where the timber came from. Asking your supplier to show you that answer is not an unreasonable question.

Reading an engineered board: wear layer, core and finish

  • Wear layer: the timber on top, quoted in millimetres, and the only part that can be sanded — ask for the figure rather than the word.
  • Core: plywood cores are lighter and more forgiving over an imperfect base; high-density fibreboard cores are harder and denser but far less tolerant of moisture at a cut edge.
  • Total thickness: sets the joint strength, the sound underfoot and whether the board will bridge a small dip in the base.
  • Edge profile: square edges read as a continuous floor and show any lippage, bevelled edges hide small level differences but cannot be sanded flat later without losing the bevel.
  • Factory finish: a cured coating applied under controlled conditions, which means no coating smell in the house and no drying delay, but a finish you cannot change without sanding.
  • Locking system versus tongue and groove: a click board can be floated, a tongue-and-groove board is usually glued down, and many boards are sold for either.
  • Species and cut: the face timber determines hardness, colour movement in sun and how a scratch reads, and a rotary-cut face has a different grain pattern to a sawn one.

Direct-stick or floating, and why the slab decides

Direct-stick means the boards are bonded to the base with a flexible adhesive across the whole floor. It feels solid, sounds solid, has no underlay to fail, and transmits less noise to the room below. It also commits you: the adhesive is the reason the floor cannot easily be lifted, and it is entirely dependent on the base being dry, clean and sound.

Floating means the boards lock to each other and lie loose over an underlay, held only by the perimeter. It is faster, tolerant of a base that cannot be made perfect, and removable. It also sounds hollower, needs a continuous expansion gap around every fixed object, and turns any dip in the base into a spot where the floor flexes and the joints work.

What usually settles the argument is the slab. A ground-floor slab in Australia sits on soil, and the ABCB Housing Provisions require a vapour barrier of 0.2 mm nominal thickness polyethylene film beneath it, lapped not less than 200 mm at all joints and taped or sealed with a close-fitting sleeve around every service penetration, extending under internal and edge beams to finish at ground level. On an older house you cannot assume that membrane is intact or was ever installed to that specification, which is why a moisture reading taken to the adhesive manufacturer's method — not a look and a feel — is what decides whether direct-stick is available to you at all.

What Australia's illegal logging law asks of the people who sold you the floor

The Illegal Logging Prohibition Act 2012 is Commonwealth law. It makes it an offence to import illegally logged timber and to import regulated timber products containing it, and it places a due diligence obligation on the importer: section 13A requires a due diligence system to be in place before regulated timber products are imported. Separate provisions cover the processing of raw logs domestically, and the Secretary can require an importer to produce information and documents.

That matters to a homeowner for a practical reason rather than a moral one. It means there is paperwork. An importer who has done the work has records of species, country of harvest and the risk assessment they ran, and a reputable supplier can get to them. A supplier who cannot tell you the botanical species or the country of harvest of the timber on top of the board is telling you something about the chain they buy through.

Ask for both by name, in writing, on the quote. Species matters anyway — it sets hardness, how the colour shifts under Australian sun and whether a future repair can be matched — so you are asking for something you need for other reasons, and the answer doubles as evidence that someone upstream did the work the Act requires.

How an engineered floor should be laid

Preparation first, and it is most of the job. The base is checked for moisture to the method the adhesive or flooring manufacturer specifies, ground where it is high and filled with a levelling compound where it is low, then cleaned back to a sound surface. A slab is finished to a building tolerance, not a flooring tolerance, so this is ordinary work rather than an extra, and a quote that says nothing about it has priced the easy version.

Then acclimatisation, which is not a ritual. Boards delivered from a coastal warehouse into a dry inland house will change dimension, and the point is to get that change over with before the boards are fixed rather than after. The installer should say how long, in what conditions, and with the packs opened or closed — the manufacturer's instruction, not a rule of thumb.

Setting out comes next, and it is where a good installer earns the fee. The direction of the boards, where the starting line sits so the last board is not a sliver, where the expansion gap runs and how it will be covered, where breaks go at doorways, and how the floor meets tile, carpet and the front door threshold. The perimeter gap is structural, not cosmetic: a floating floor with its gap filled at one wall will lift in the middle of the room the first humid week it gets.

Who is licensed to lay an engineered floor

Queensland names it directly. The QBCC's floor finishing and covering (hard sector) licence class lists installing pre-finished manufactured and engineered timber flooring in its published scope of work, alongside sanding and coating timber floors and installing and repairing non-structural strip timber flooring. If the contractor also intends to do work outside that class beyond a small incidental value cap, they need the additional licence.

New South Wales approaches it from the other end: Service NSW's licence check exists because a licence is required for people doing residential building work as well as the occupational trades, and the check will tell you what a particular contractor is authorised to do. The other states each have their own regulator and their own thresholds, so the reliable habit is the same everywhere — get the licence number, check it yourself, and ask the contractor which class it is.

It is worth doing even though laying a floating floor is not dangerous work. The licence is the thread that connects to the statutory home warranty schemes and to the dispute bodies, and a contractor who is not licensed for the work is also usually outside the cover you would want when a floor cups a year later.

How engineered floors fail here

  • Peaking or tenting in the middle of a room, which means the floating floor has grown and had nowhere to go — almost always a perimeter gap that was filled, blocked by a doorframe or built out against a kitchen kickboard.
  • Hollow spots on a direct-stick floor, where the adhesive did not transfer because the slab was dusty or the trowel notch was wrong.
  • Edge swelling on boards with a fibreboard core, which starts at a cut edge near a dishwasher, a fridge water line or an external door and cannot be repaired.
  • Delamination of the wear layer from the core, usually a heat and moisture story in a room with a lot of glass and no shading.
  • Squeaks along one line, which on a floating floor means the underlay is bridging a dip in the base rather than anything wrong with the boards.
  • A sanded-through veneer where somebody tried to refinish a thin wear layer, which is unrepairable and the reason the wear layer number matters at purchase.
  • Colour difference between rooms after a few years, which is sun rather than product, and a reason to keep spare boards out of the light.

Living with an engineered floor

  • Keep spare boards from the same batch, stored flat and out of daylight, because a discontinued range makes a single damaged board a whole-room problem.
  • Manage humidity rather than chase it: the floor was acclimatised to a range, and running the air conditioning hard through a Queensland summer and not at all in winter is what widens joints.
  • Damp-mop only, with the product the manufacturer names, and wipe spills rather than letting them sit at a board joint.
  • Shade the glass. Sun through a large window will change the colour of the face timber unevenly, and rugs and furniture make the unevenness permanent.
  • Check the perimeter gap once a year at the kitchen kickboard and at doorframes, which are the two places later trades block it without realising.
  • Fix a leaking dishwasher or fridge line immediately; a fibreboard core swells from a slow leak long before you see water on the surface.

The quote, the paperwork and comparing offers on LokalMatch

A comparable engineered flooring quote names the product, the wear layer thickness in millimetres, the fixing method, the underlay if any, the preparation allowed for and what happens if the moisture reading comes back high. That last item is the one that turns a fixed price into a variation halfway through, so ask for it to be priced as an option rather than left open.

The Australian Consumer Law sits behind all of it. The ACCC sets out the guarantees that apply to goods and to services, and a floor sold as suitable for direct-stick over a slab, or as sandable, has been described in a way that has to be true. Keep the quote, the product documentation and the species and origin information together, because those are the documents that make a claim straightforward rather than a memory contest.

On LokalMatch, give every installer the same brief: the area in square metres, whether the base is a slab or a suspended timber floor, the age of the house, the rooms involved and whether you want direct-stick or floating. Ask each of them to state the wear layer and total thickness of the board they are quoting. Quotes that look identical on price often separate completely on that one line.

Engineered Hardwood: frequently asked questions

Is an engineered floor a real timber floor?

The surface is real timber and looks and wears like it. What differs is the layers below, which are engineered for stability rather than appearance. The honest distinction is not real versus fake, it is how much timber you own: a thick wear layer can be sanded like a solid floor, a thin one cannot be sanded at all.

Can I lay it over my existing tiles?

Often yes, if the tiles are sound, well bonded and flat enough, and if the added height works at doors, at the front threshold and against kitchen kickboards. A floating floor is the usual answer over tile. The two things to settle first are whether any tiles are drummy, because a loose tile under a floating floor becomes a squeak, and how the grout joints will be dealt with.

How do I know how thick the wear layer is?

Ask for the figure in millimetres and have it written on the quote. It is a specification the manufacturer publishes, not something the retailer estimates. If nobody in the chain will state it, treat the board as one that cannot be sanded and price it accordingly.

Where can I find out where the timber came from?

Start with your supplier. Australia's Illegal Logging Prohibition Act 2012 makes importing illegally logged timber an offence and requires importers of regulated timber products to have a due diligence system before importing, so the information exists somewhere upstream. Ask for the botanical species and the country of harvest in writing on the quote.

Will it work over my old slab?

That depends on moisture, not age. A ground-floor slab should have a polyethylene vapour barrier beneath it — the ABCB Housing Provisions call for film of 0.2 mm nominal thickness, lapped at least 200 mm and sealed around penetrations — but on an older house you cannot assume it is intact. A moisture reading taken to the manufacturer's method is what decides between direct-stick, a floating floor with a moisture barrier, or waiting.

What happens if one board is damaged?

On a direct-stick floor a single board can be cut out and replaced by a good installer, and the join will be visible for a while. On a floating floor, boards can sometimes be unclicked back from a wall, which is tidier but disturbs the room. Either way the limiting factor is having a matching board, which is why keeping spares from the original batch is the cheapest insurance in flooring.

Sources

  1. Illegal Logging Prohibition Act 2012 (Cth)
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 4.2 footings, slabs and associated elements
  3. QBCC licence class: floor finishing and covering (hard sector)
  4. Service NSW: check a builder or tradesperson licence
  5. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of engineered hardwood

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Engineered hardwood permits and local rules

Some engineered hardwood work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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