Luxury Vinyl Plank
Luxury Vinyl Plank near you
Luxury vinyl plank is sold in Australia on one word: waterproof. It is largely true of the plank. A rigid-core or flexible vinyl board will sit in water without swelling in a way no timber or laminate board can, and that is why it has taken over kitchens, laundries and rental refurbishments across the country. What the word does not describe is the floor, which is a set of joints, a perimeter and whatever is underneath, and that is where nearly every failure happens.
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The thing that actually breaks luxury vinyl plank in this country is not water. It is heat and light. Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature far more than timber does, and an Australian living room behind a large north or west-facing window is a hard environment for it: a floating plank floor in full afternoon sun in February can grow enough across a long run to close its expansion gap, and once it has nowhere to go it lifts at a joint or buckles in a line.
So the two questions worth asking a supplier are about the fixing method and the room, not the product's water rating. Is this floor being floated, loose-laid or glued down? How long is the longest unbroken run? What is the manufacturer's temperature limit for the surface, and does this room exceed it in summer? A contractor who answers those has understood the job. One who only repeats that the plank is waterproof has not.
Click, loose-lay and glue-down: three different floors sold under one name
- Rigid-core click planks (often sold as hybrid or SPC boards): a dense mineral core with a click joint, floated over an underlay, stiff enough to bridge a small dip and the most common product sold for a whole house.
- Flexible vinyl click planks: a softer board with a click joint, quieter and warmer underfoot, but far more inclined to telegraph an imperfect base.
- Loose-lay planks: heavy, friction-backed boards laid without adhesive except at the perimeter and in doorways, easy to lift a single board out of and popular in rentals for exactly that reason.
- Glue-down planks: bonded across the whole floor, which removes expansion behaviour almost entirely and is the right answer for a big sunlit open plan or a room with heavy rolling loads.
- Sheet vinyl, which is a different trade and a different guide, but often the better answer in a laundry or a small bathroom because it has no joints at all.
- Attached underlay versus separate underlay: an attached pad saves a step but removes your ability to choose an acoustic underlay for an apartment.
- Wear layer thickness, which is the clear top film and the only thing standing between your furniture and the printed decor — a specification to get in writing, as on any resilient floor.
Sun, heat and expansion: the Australian failure mode
Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide contains an instructive rule that is about tiles rather than vinyl, and it is worth knowing because it shows how seriously Australian practice takes sunlight on a floor. For tiled floors, intermediate control joints are required where any dimension of an internal floor not subject to sunlight exceeds 9 m, but where the internal floor is subject to sunlight the trigger drops to 6 m, with joints spaced at 4.5 m centres. External floors drop again, to 4.5 m. Sunlight alone tightens the rule by a third.
Vinyl is far more thermally active than ceramic, so the same physics bites harder. It is why a floating plank floor needs a continuous expansion gap around the whole perimeter and around every fixed object, why long runs get a break at doorways, and why manufacturers publish a maximum room dimension for a floating installation. It is also why glue-down exists: a bonded floor cannot move as a sheet, so it cannot peak.
Practically, that means the specification changes room by room in the same house. A shaded bedroom will take a floating floor without complaint. A west-facing open-plan living and dining area with glass to the floor may need the same product glued down, or a break at the change of room, or external shading added before the floor goes in. Ask which of those your contractor is proposing and why — not because floating is wrong, but because the answer tells you whether they looked at the windows.
What waterproof actually covers, and what it does not
A waterproof plank resists water passing through the board. It does not make the joints between boards a barrier, it does not seal the perimeter, and it does nothing about what happens once water is underneath. Spilled water on a sealed-looking plank floor will find a joint, travel along the underlay and sit against the skirting and the base, and in a warm Australian house that is a mould problem well before it is a flooring problem.
The building rules make the same distinction, from the other direction. The ABCB Housing Provisions set the requirements for wet areas on the floor itself rather than on the covering. The floor of a shower area must be waterproof. Outside the shower area, a concrete or fibre-cement floor must be water resistant while a timber-based floor must be waterproof, and the floor of a laundry or a WC must be water resistant. Where a floor waste is installed, the minimum continuous fall of a floor plane to the waste must be 1:80 and the maximum must be 1:50. A waterproof plank does not substitute for any of that, and it is no substitute for a properly graded and waterproofed shower.
Where that leaves a homeowner is with a sensible rule: use the plank's water resistance as insurance against accidents, not as the design. Keep sheet vinyl or tile in the shower and the wet part of a bathroom, seal the perimeter and the appliance cut-outs in a laundry or kitchen, and treat a dishwasher or fridge water line as the real risk it is.
Base preparation, and why it shows through more than any other floor
Vinyl planks are thin and the softer ones are flexible, so they take the shape of what is underneath. A lump of dried render, a proud screw head or a ridge of old adhesive telegraphs through as a visible high point within weeks. Preparation is therefore not tidying up, it is the job: scraping, grinding, patching and then a levelling compound where the base needs it.
Queensland's guide states the principle for a new house plainly — the finish to a concrete slab is defective if it is not suitable for the documented applied finishes, naming tiles, polished concrete, carpet and sheet flooring, including set-downs where required. In other words, the base has to suit the floor that was specified for it, and if the covering is changing from carpet to plank, the base may need work that nobody has ever had to do to it before.
Moisture is the other check. A ground-floor slab is on soil, and a slow-drying or damp slab will fail an adhesive and can lift a loose-lay floor. A reading taken to the manufacturer's method, and a stated plan for what happens if it comes back high, belongs in the quote. So does the acclimatisation period, which for vinyl is about temperature rather than humidity — the boards need to reach the room's temperature before they are locked together at that length.
Reading a failed plank floor
- Peaking along one line, usually parallel to a sunlit window, which means the floor grew and the perimeter gap was not there or was blocked.
- Gaps opening between end joints in winter, the same story in reverse, and a sign the floor was laid hot and has shrunk back.
- A visible ridge under the planks that follows a straight line, which is almost always a joint or a trowel ridge in the base rather than a fault in the floor.
- Cupped or curled board edges, which on a rigid-core board points at heat and on a flexible board points at moisture from below.
- Indentation marks under fridge feet or chair legs that never recover, which is a wear layer and core density question, not a maintenance one.
- Black or grey scuffing that will not clean off, typically rubber castors or furniture feet reacting with the plank surface.
- Water staining visible at a board joint near a dishwasher, which means water is under the floor and has been for a while.
Looking after a vinyl plank floor in an Australian house
- Sweep or vacuum grit before it is walked in; the wear layer is a film and grit is what wears through it.
- Damp-mop with the manufacturer's product and avoid steam mops entirely — heat and pressure at a joint is exactly the combination the floor is worst at.
- Use felt pads, not rubber, under furniture feet, and wide castors rather than narrow ones on office chairs.
- Shade west-facing glass with blinds, awnings or film, which does more for a plank floor than any cleaning routine.
- Keep the perimeter gap clear behind the skirting and at kitchen kickboards, and check it after any other trade works in the room.
- Wipe spills at appliances rather than letting them sit at a joint, and pull the dishwasher out once a year to look at the floor behind it.
- Keep spare planks from the same batch, stored flat, since a single damaged board in a loose-lay or click floor is genuinely replaceable if you have a match.
Getting the description right, and what the law does with it
Vinyl plank is sold with more marketing language than almost any other floor, and that language has legal weight. The ACCC sets out the consumer guarantees under the Australian Consumer Law: goods must be of acceptable quality and fit for any purpose the seller said they were fit for, and services must be carried out with acceptable care and skill and be fit for any stated purpose. A board sold to you as suitable for a sunlit open-plan living area floated at that length has been described in a way that has to hold up.
So write the description down. Product name and range, wear layer thickness, fixing method, underlay, the longest unbroken run in the house, whether the room is in direct sun and what the manufacturer's installation instructions say about that room, and the preparation and moisture testing allowed for. If the installer is departing from the manufacturer's instructions in any respect, get the reason in writing, because departing from them is usually what voids the product warranty.
Use LokalMatch to get those quotes side by side. Give every installer the same floor plan, the same room-by-room sun exposure and the same base description, and ask each to state whether they are floating or gluing and why. On this product more than most, the cheapest quote is often the one that has not read the room.
Luxury Vinyl Plank: frequently asked questions
Can I put luxury vinyl plank in my bathroom?
Outside the shower, often yes, but it does not replace the waterproofing. The building rules put the obligation on the floor rather than the covering: the shower area floor must be waterproof, a concrete or fibre-cement floor outside the shower must be water resistant while a timber-based one must be waterproof, and wall and floor junctions must be waterproof. Sheet vinyl or tile is usually the better answer in a small wet room because it has fewer joints.
Why has my floor lifted in the middle of the room?
Almost always expansion with nowhere to go. A floating floor grows when it warms, and if the perimeter gap was too small, was filled with sealant, or is blocked by a kitchen kickboard or a doorframe, the floor has to move upwards instead. Long runs in direct sun are where it happens first. The fix is to reopen the gap, and sometimes to break the run at a doorway.
Is a rigid-core board better than a flexible one?
They are better at different things. A rigid core bridges small imperfections in the base and resists indentation, but it is harder and louder underfoot and moves more with temperature. A flexible board is warmer and quieter but shows every ridge below it. Which one is right depends far more on your base and your sun exposure than on which is more expensive.
Do I need underlay?
It depends on the product and the building. Many boards come with an attached pad, in which case a second underlay is usually prohibited by the manufacturer. In an apartment, an acoustic underlay may be required by the building's own rules, which is a reason to choose a board without an attached pad. Over a slab, an underlay with a moisture barrier is often specified.
Can it go over my existing tiles?
Usually, if the tiles are sound and not drummy and the grout joints are narrow enough for the board you have chosen. Wide grout lines can telegraph through a flexible plank. Check the added height at the front door, at internal doors and at the kitchen kickboard before committing, because that is the constraint people discover too late.
How do I replace one damaged plank?
On a loose-lay floor it lifts out. On a glue-down floor an installer cuts it out and bonds a new one. On a click floor it is harder: either the run is unclicked back from the nearest wall, or the board is cut out and a replacement glued in with its locking tongue removed. All three need a matching board, so keep spares from the original batch.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of vinyl plank flooring
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare flooring contractors before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Vinyl plank flooring permits and local rules
Some vinyl plank flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about vinyl plank flooring
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Flooring Contractors guide
Most Australian houses are built on a concrete slab poured on the ground rather than over a basement, and that single fact drives more flooring decisions here than any other.
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Timber Flooring guide
Timber flooring is what most of the country calls a hardwood floor, and in Australia it is laid in three quite different situations: over a concrete slab poured on the ground, over a suspended timber subfloor with a…
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Floor Sanding & Polishing guide
Australians call this sanding and polishing, and the word polishing is misleading. Nothing is buffed the way stone is.
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