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Floor Sanding & Polishing

Floor Sanding & Polishing near you

Australians call this sanding and polishing, and the word polishing is misleading. Nothing is buffed the way stone is. The floor is cut back with belt and edge machines until the boards are flat and clean, and then a coating goes on top — a water-based or solvent-based finish, or an oil that soaks in. The polish is the coating.

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The thing worth understanding before you get quotes is that sanding is subtraction. Every pass removes timber, and a board has only a finite amount above its tongue to give. A solid strip floor that has already been done twice may have very little left; an engineered board has only its veneer, and on a thin veneer one careless pass reaches the plywood underneath. Any contractor worth hiring will lift a vent or a board at a doorway to see what is actually there before quoting, rather than assuming.

The other reason to look before sanding is age. Vinyl tiles and sheet made before the 1980s, the paint-on adhesives used to stick them down, and asbestos felt underlays are all on the national asbestos product register, and they turn up under carpet and lino in houses lived in well into the 1990s. A sander is the worst possible tool to discover them with, which is why the check comes first and why that work belongs to a licensed removalist rather than a floor sander.

What a sanding and polishing quote should actually cover

  • Lifting and disposing of the existing covering, including tacks, staples, gripper and adhesive residue, which is often the noisiest line on the invoice.
  • Punching nails below the surface and filling, because a proud nail head destroys an abrasive belt and leaves a track across the room.
  • Board replacement where boards are split, cupped past recovery or cut out around old plumbing, and how the replacements will be matched.
  • The sanding itself, usually several passes down through grades of abrasive, with a separate machine for edges and corners.
  • Gap filling, if you want it, and a clear statement of whether the filler is a trowelled slurry across the whole floor or individual gaps packed with timber slivers.
  • The coating system by number of coats, with a cut back between coats, and a sheen level you have seen on a sample rather than chosen from a name.
  • Staining or liming, if the colour is changing, priced separately because it adds a full drying stage.
  • Reinstating skirting, scotia and thresholds, which is a different trade on some jobs and is where thin quotes stop.

How many sands a floor has left, and how to find out

There is no published figure for this, and anyone who quotes you one is guessing. What exists is a measurement: the depth of timber above the tongue on a solid board, or the thickness of the veneer above the core on an engineered board. Both can be read directly by lifting a board at a cupboard, a floor vent or a doorway, and a contractor who declines to look is deciding your floor's future on a hunch.

The practical consequence is that a floor near the end of its sanding life is not a lost cause, it is a floor that needs a lighter job. A screen and recoat takes off the old coating and a whisker of timber rather than levelling the whole surface, so it will not remove deep scratches or colour change but it will buy years and it can be repeated. Ask for it to be quoted as an alternative, because a contractor paid to sand will sand.

Engineered boards deserve their own conversation. Some are sold as sandable once, some not at all, and the veneer thickness is stated by the manufacturer rather than judged by eye. Bevelled edges complicate it further: sanding flat removes the bevel on the high boards first and leaves an uneven set of shadow lines, which is a cosmetic outcome you should agree to before the machine starts, not discover afterwards.

The numbers a finished timber floor is measured against in Queensland

Queensland publishes something most homeowners never see: a Standards and Tolerances Guide, last issued in December 2023, which sets out what counts as defective work. Its floors section is the closest thing Australia has to an agreed definition of a good timber floor, and although it is a Queensland document, it is useful anywhere as a way to write a scope that can be checked.

On gaps, the guide says a floor is defective within the first twelve months if it has a gap of more than 2 mm between adjacent boards extending for more than 1 m, or gaps totalling more than 5 mm across three gaps between four consecutive boards. On levels, floor levels within a room are defective if they differ by more than 10 mm in any room or area, or more than 4 mm in any 2 m length, where that affects safe use or reasonable amenity. Nail heads detectable through a covering, or nail popping clearly visible in an exposed floor, are defects in the first twelve months.

Two exclusions matter as much as the numbers. The guide accepts that timber shrinks and swells with its moisture content, and it excludes from the gap test any area affected by sunlight, cooling, heating or other heat-generating appliances, on the basis that localised shrinkage there cannot be allowed for at the time of construction. A north-facing living room behind big glass in a Queensland summer is exactly that area, and it is why a sanding contract should say which parts of the floor the tolerances are being applied to.

The order the work runs in, and where the dust actually goes

The house has to be emptied, and more thoroughly than people expect. Machines need clear runs to the wall, the floor has to be walkable for several days without furniture on it, and every coat needs the room shut. Plan for the kitchen and the bathroom to be reachable by a route that is not the floor being done, or plan to be out of the house.

Dust extraction is not an extra. Modern machines run to bagged or vacuum extraction and a job done this way leaves a fine film rather than drifts, but the seal on doorways, the cupboards, the ducted air conditioning returns and the wardrobes still need taping. Ask specifically what is being sealed and who does it, because the difference between a tidy job and a house that smells of timber dust for a month is entirely in that step.

Then the coatings, which drive the timetable. Each coat needs to dry before the next, the room needs ventilation while it does, and full cure runs well past the point where the floor can be walked on. Get the contractor's own numbers for light foot traffic, for putting rugs down and for sliding furniture back, in writing, because rugs laid too early trap solvent and mark the finish permanently.

Which licence covers sanding and coating, and why the state matters

Australia licenses trades state by state, and floor sanding sits in different places. Queensland is the clearest: the QBCC has a licence class called floor finishing and covering (hard sector) whose published scope includes preparing, sanding and applying coatings to timber floors, installing and repairing cork flooring, installing and repairing mosaic and block parquetry, installing pre-finished manufactured and engineered timber flooring, and installing and repairing non-structural strip timber flooring. Incidental work of another class is allowed under a small value cap set by the QBCC.

New South Wales runs a licence check through Service NSW and requires a licence for people doing residential building work as well as for wiring, plumbing, draining, gasfitting and air conditioning or refrigeration work. Whether a particular floor sanding job needs one turns on the value and nature of the work, so the sensible move is to run the contractor's name and number through the check and ask them to tell you which class they hold and what it lets them do.

Wherever you are, insurance is the question worth pressing. Public liability matters here because the work is dusty, noisy and full of trip hazards while it runs, and statutory home warranty cover is separate again and triggered by contract value in most states. Ask for the certificate rather than the assurance.

What goes wrong on Australian floors, and what each fault means

  • Drum marks — shallow ripples across the boards — which mean the belt machine was stopped or started on the floor rather than in motion.
  • A visible ring of different texture around the edge of the room, where the edge machine was worked to a different grade than the main floor.
  • Cloudy patches in the coating, usually a coat applied over a surface that was not clean or not dry, and the reason cut-backs between coats are specified.
  • Bubbles and pinholes, which mean the floor was coated in heat or direct sun and the finish skinned before it levelled.
  • Filler that turns a different colour to the timber as the floor ages, which is normal for a trowelled slurry and worth agreeing to in advance.
  • Boards that cup after coating, which is a moisture problem below the floor rather than a sanding fault, and points at subfloor ventilation or a slab.
  • Rugs laid before full cure, leaving a permanent lighter rectangle where the coating cured differently.

Keeping a coated floor good through an Australian year

  • Grit is the enemy, so mats at every external door and at the door from the garage do more for the finish than any product.
  • Vacuum with a hard-floor head rather than a beater bar, and damp-mop rather than wet-mop, because standing water finds the joints.
  • Use the cleaning product the coating manufacturer names; a silicone-based polish will make the floor impossible to recoat later without full sanding.
  • Felt pads under every chair and table leg, replaced when they load up with grit, which they do.
  • Manage direct sun with blinds or film where you can, since strong Australian sun changes the colour of most timbers and the change is uneven where furniture sits.
  • Watch the traffic lanes rather than the whole floor: when the sheen has gone from a hallway but the edges are untouched, that is the signal for a screen and recoat instead of a full sand.

What to get in writing, and the guarantees you already have

Write the scope around observable things. Number of coats, product and sheen, which rooms, whether gaps are being filled and how, how many boards are being replaced and where the replacements come from, who lifts and refits skirting and thresholds, and who removes the old covering and its debris. Add the dates for light traffic, rugs and furniture, since those are the promises most often made verbally and forgotten.

Underneath any of that sit the consumer guarantees in the Australian Consumer Law, which the ACCC explains for services as three things: services must be carried out with acceptable care and skill, they and any resulting products must be fit for any stated purpose, and they must be supplied within a reasonable time where no time frame was agreed. Those cannot be contracted away, and they are the backstop if a floor is delivered with drum marks or a coating that fails early.

LokalMatch is where you collect the comparable quotes. Post the room count, the approximate floor area in square metres, the age of the house, what covering is on the floor now and whether it has been sanded before, and ask every quote to price a screen and recoat alongside a full sand. The gap between those two prices tells you a great deal about how the contractor has read your floor.

Floor Sanding & Polishing: frequently asked questions

How do I know whether my floor can be sanded again?

By looking, not guessing. A board lifted at a vent, a cupboard or a doorway shows how much timber sits above the tongue on a solid floor, or how thick the veneer is on an engineered one. Ask the contractor to do this at the quote stage and to tell you what they found. If they will not, get another quote.

What is the difference between a full sand and a screen and recoat?

A full sand cuts back through the old coating and into the timber until the floor is flat, which removes scratches, stains and colour change and uses up part of the floor's remaining life. A screen and recoat abrades only the coating and lays a new one over it, so it restores sheen and protection but leaves deeper damage visible. It can be repeated many times.

Is my old floor covering dangerous to lift?

It can be. Vinyl flooring and tiles made before the 1980s and used into the 1990s are recorded on the national asbestos product register, and the paint-on adhesives and felt underlays below them may contain asbestos too. Nothing about that is a do-it-yourself job and nothing about it should meet a sander. Have the material identified first and let a licensed removalist deal with it.

How long before I can move back in?

Ask the contractor for their own figures for the product they are using, and get three separate dates: when the floor takes light foot traffic, when furniture can go back, and when rugs can be laid. Rugs are the one people get wrong; laying them early traps solvent and leaves a permanent mark.

Will the gaps between my boards disappear?

Not permanently. Timber moves with its moisture content all year, so gaps open in a dry season and close in a humid one. Filling is cosmetic and will crack in places as the floor moves. Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide treats gaps over 2 mm running more than a metre as a defect in a new floor, but it explicitly excludes areas affected by sunlight or heating, which is a fair reflection of how timber behaves here.

Can one room be done and matched to the rest later?

Matching a new coating to an aged one is difficult, because the timber underneath has changed colour and the old coating has as well. If the rooms are separated by a doorway with a threshold the join can be hidden. If they run continuously, expect a visible line and decide whether you can live with it before the work starts.

Sources

  1. QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
  2. QBCC licence class: floor finishing and covering (hard sector)
  3. Service NSW: check a builder or tradesperson licence
  4. Asbestos Safety and Eradication Agency: vinyl flooring and tiles with asbestos
  5. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of floor refinishing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare floor refinishers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask floor refinishers before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Floor refinishing permits and local rules

Some floor refinishing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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