Tile Installation
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Tiling is the default hard floor in Australian houses, and for good reason: it stays cool underfoot through a long summer, it shrugs off the sand and grit that come in from a beach or a dry backyard, and it is the only common floor covering that belongs in a shower. It is also the trade most likely to involve two things a homeowner never sees again once the job is finished — the waterproofing membrane underneath a wet area, and the way the substrate has been prepared to cope with movement.
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Both of those are regulated. The National Construction Code housing provisions set out what must be waterproof and what must be water resistant in a wet area, and compliance is by way of AS 3740, the standard for waterproofing domestic wet areas. The shower floor must be waterproof, including any hob or step-down, the shower walls must be waterproof to a substantial height above the floor substrate, walls next to a bath or basin must be water resistant to a set height above the vessel, and the floor of the room itself must be water resistant where it is concrete or fibre-cement and waterproof where it is timber.
There is a health issue on the tools too. Cutting and grinding bed materials, screeds and masonry substrates releases respirable crystalline silica dust, and Australian work health and safety regulators have tightened the rules around silica considerably — New South Wales notes that crystalline silica laws changed in 2024, and the manufacture, supply and installation of engineered stone benchtops, slabs and panels containing at least one per cent silica is banned.
Tile types, formats and slip resistance for Australian rooms
Tile choice in Australia is usually settled by three questions: where the tile is going, how big it is, and how it behaves when wet. The Queensland tiling licence scope gives a sense of the range a tiler works with, naming ceramic, glass, marble, slate, stone and terracotta tiles fixed to fireplaces, floors, hearths, spas, swimming pools and walls, along with terrazzo construction.
- Porcelain: dense and low-absorption, the usual choice for floors and wet areas, and hard enough that cutting it needs the right blade and dust control.
- Ceramic: lighter and easier to cut, more often used on walls than on heavily trafficked floors.
- Natural stone such as marble, slate and travertine: beautiful and variable, usually needing sealing and more careful handling of staining and etching.
- Terracotta: warm-looking and porous, traditionally sealed, and less forgiving of standing water than a glazed tile.
- Large-format tiles: they look calm across a big room but they need a flatter substrate than small tiles, because any hollow under a large tile becomes a drummy spot or a crack.
- Mosaics: the practical choice for a shower floor because the many grout joints let the falls run to the waste without lipping.
- Slip resistance: for stairways and ramps the code sets minimum slip-resistance classifications tested to AS 4586, with higher classifications required for surfaces that are normally wet than for dry ones — worth asking about for any tiled step or external threshold.
Tiling and waterproofing licences in New South Wales and Queensland
New South Wales treats wall and floor tiling as a licensed trade. The work is described as attaching tiles to the internal or external surfaces of buildings and includes ceramic and natural tiles, cork, linoleum and rubber, mosaics and surface preparation — and, importantly, it includes waterproofing wet areas to get them ready for tiling. A contractor licence is required for residential building and trade work above a set value in labour and materials including GST, and the qualification pathway runs through a Certificate III in Wall and Floor Tiling.
Waterproofing is also a licence in its own right in New South Wales, defined as any protective treatment of a home to prevent water or moisture getting into it, with its own Certificate III qualification pathway. So on a bathroom job you may be dealing with a tiler whose licence covers the waterproofing that precedes their tiling, or with a separate waterproofing contractor — either can be correct, but you should know which it is and see the licence.
Queensland splits the two into separate QBCC classes. The wall and floor tiling class covers cutting and fixing tile to fireplaces, floors, hearths, spas, swimming pools and walls, constructing terrazzo floors, steps, risers and stringers, and applying waterproofing for wall and floor tiling. The separate waterproofing class covers applying, installing and repairing waterproofing including surface preparation, and applying or installing materials or systems for preventing moisture penetration. Whichever state you are in, ask for the licence number and check it on the regulator's public register before work starts.
How a tiled wet area is actually built, in order
- Strip out and inspect: the old surface comes off and the substrate is checked — and in a house built or renovated before 1990, the old sheeting and floor covering are treated as suspect until tested.
- Substrate repair and preparation: sheeting or slab made sound, flat and clean, since a membrane and a tile bed only perform as well as what they are stuck to.
- Falls and set-out: the floor is graded so water runs to the waste, and the tile set-out is planned so cuts land where they will not be noticed and the shower falls still work.
- Waterproofing: the membrane is applied to the areas the code requires, taken up the walls to the required heights, and detailed at corners, penetrations, the hob or step-down and the door threshold.
- Curing and testing: the membrane is left to cure for the time the system specifies, and a flood test is the standard way to confirm it holds before anything is tiled over it.
- Screed and tiling: the bed is laid to the falls and the tiles fixed with full contact to the bed, which is what prevents the drummy, hollow-sounding tiles that show up later.
- Grouting, sealing and movement joints: grout, then flexible sealant where planes meet and at perimeters, because a rigid grout line in a moving junction is the classic cracking point.
What the code requires in a shower, a bathroom and a laundry
It helps to know the requirements before the quotes arrive, because the difference between a cheap bathroom quote and a careful one is often here. The building elements in a wet area must comply with AS 3740, and the housing provisions then set out where waterproofing and water resistance apply.
Inside the shower area, the floor must be waterproof, including any hob or step-down, and the walls must be waterproof to a substantial minimum height above the floor substrate. In the room outside the shower, the floor must be water resistant where it is concrete or fibre-cement, and waterproof where it is timber — which is why an upstairs timber-framed bathroom is a more demanding job than a ground-floor one on a slab. Around a bath that is not freestanding, and around basins and sinks close to a wall, the wall must be water resistant to a minimum height above the vessel.
Two consequences follow for a homeowner. First, if a quote does not describe the membrane system and where it goes, you cannot compare it with one that does. Second, a bathroom that leaks is usually not leaking through the tiles — the tiles and grout were never the waterproof layer. That is why a repair that only replaces grout or silicone often buys a few months rather than a fix.
Silica dust when tiles and beds are cut, and the engineered stone prohibition
Cutting, grinding and drilling on a tiling job goes through more than the tile. Screeds, mortar beds, concrete substrates and sand-cement render are the materials involved, and SafeWork NSW identifies crystalline silica as a natural mineral found in products such as sand, concrete and granite, as well as in manmade products like engineered stone. The dust generated is fine enough to reach deep into the lungs, which is why regulators treat it as a serious hazard rather than a nuisance, and why New South Wales points out that crystalline silica laws changed in 2024.
The control measures that regulators put in front of this work are well established. WorkSafe Victoria sets them out as on-tool dust extraction, dust suppression, respirator use, and information, instruction and training. In practice, on a domestic job, that means a wet saw or water-fed cutting rather than dry cutting in a closed room, a shrouded grinder connected to dust extraction where a tool must be used dry, properly fitted respiratory protection, and cleaning up with a vacuum suited to fine dust rather than a broom that throws it back into the air.
The engineered stone prohibition is the background to all of it. In New South Wales, the manufacture, supply and installation of engineered stone benchtops, slabs and panels containing at least one per cent silica is banned, and Victoria has prohibited the processing and supply of engineered stone. That affects benchtops rather than floor tiles, but it tells you how seriously the same dust is taken when it is generated by cutting other silica-containing materials on the same site. It is a fair question to ask a tiler how they control dust — and a good sign when they have an answer ready.
Signs a tiled floor or wet area is failing
- Tiles that sound hollow when tapped, meaning the bond to the bed has failed under them and cracking or lifting will follow.
- Cracks running in a line across several tiles, which usually points to movement in the substrate rather than to faulty tiles.
- Grout that keeps crumbling out of the same joint, particularly where a floor meets a wall, which suggests movement that a flexible joint should be absorbing.
- Dark or damp patches on the other side of a shower wall, on a skirting outside the bathroom or on a ceiling below an upstairs bathroom.
- Water pooling on the shower floor instead of running to the waste, which means the falls are wrong and cannot be fixed with grout.
- A persistent smell, efflorescence or white deposits at the edges of tiles, which indicates water sitting in the bed rather than draining away.
Maintaining grout, sealant and a tiled wet area
- Treat the flexible sealant at internal corners and at the floor-to-wall junction as a wearing part, and have it replaced when it splits or lifts rather than painting over it.
- Squeegee or wipe the shower and ventilate the room afterwards, since it is constant dampness rather than occasional water that grows mould in grout lines.
- Use a cleaner suited to the tile — acidic cleaners will etch marble and other natural stone, and abrasive pads will dull a polished surface.
- Have natural stone resealed at the interval the sealer manufacturer specifies; glazed porcelain and ceramic do not need sealing, though their grout may.
- Do not wait on a leak: a wet area leak spreads into framing, sheeting and adjoining rooms, and it gets more expensive every month it is left.
- Keep a few spare tiles from the original batch, because an exact match years later is usually impossible.
Written scopes, consumer guarantees and finding tilers on LokalMatch
Australian Consumer Law gives you guarantees on the service that cannot be excluded: the work must be carried out with an acceptable level of care and skill, it must be fit for any purpose you made known, and it must be supplied within a reasonable time where none was agreed, with the weather and the availability of materials relevant to what is reasonable. In tiling, the scope is where you protect yourself: who is doing the waterproofing and under which licence, which membrane system is used and where it goes, how long it cures and whether it is flood tested, how the falls are formed, where the movement joints go, and who is responsible if the substrate turns out to need repair.
LokalMatch is where that search starts. You describe the job once — the rooms, the tile you are considering, whether a shower or wet area is involved, the age of the house and your postcode — and tilers working in your area contact you themselves. The businesses pay LokalMatch for the requests they take on, which is how the platform is funded, and it costs a homeowner nothing to describe a job. LokalMatch does not carry out tiling or waterproofing, does not quote or set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any of the businesses that respond, so checking the licence and the insurance remains your job.
Tile Installation: frequently asked questions
Does my bathroom have to be waterproofed before tiling?
Yes, and the requirements are specific. The housing provisions require building elements in wet areas to comply with AS 3740. The shower floor must be waterproof including any hob or step-down, the shower walls must be waterproof to a substantial height above the floor substrate, and the floor of the room must be water resistant on concrete or fibre-cement and waterproof where it is timber. Walls next to a bath or basin must be water resistant to a minimum height above the vessel.
Can my tiler do the waterproofing, or does it need a separate trade?
Either can be correct, depending on the state and the licences held. In New South Wales, wall and floor tiling work expressly includes waterproofing wet areas to get them ready for tiling, and waterproofing is also a licensed class in its own right. In Queensland the QBCC wall and floor tiling class covers applying waterproofing for wall and floor tiling, while a separate waterproofing class covers waterproofing work generally. Ask which licence covers the membrane on your job.
Why do some of my tiles sound hollow?
A hollow or drummy sound means the tile is not in full contact with the bed beneath it, usually because of incomplete adhesive coverage, a substrate that was not flat enough for the tile format, or a bond that has broken as the substrate moved. Large-format tiles are the least forgiving of an uneven base. Hollow tiles are not just a noise: they crack under load and they let water sit in the void if they are in a wet area.
Is cutting tiles dangerous for the people in the house?
The hazard is respirable crystalline silica dust from cutting and grinding tiles, screeds, beds and masonry substrates — SafeWork NSW identifies crystalline silica in products such as sand, concrete and granite. The controls regulators expect are on-tool dust extraction, dust suppression such as water-fed cutting, respirator use and training, as WorkSafe Victoria sets out. A tiler who cuts wet or with extraction, outside or in a contained area, and vacuums fine dust rather than sweeping it, is managing it properly.
What does the engineered stone ban mean for my tiling job?
Directly, very little — the prohibition is about engineered stone benchtops, slabs and panels rather than floor or wall tiles. In New South Wales the manufacture, supply and installation of engineered stone benchtops, slabs and panels containing at least one per cent silica is banned, and Victoria has prohibited processing and supply. Indirectly it matters a great deal, because it shows how seriously the dust from cutting silica-containing materials is now treated on every site.
My shower leaks. Can it be fixed by regrouting?
Usually not, because grout was never the waterproof layer. If water is reaching framing, the skirting outside the bathroom or a ceiling below, the membrane or its detailing at corners, penetrations and the step-down is the likely problem, and that means removing tiles to fix it properly. Regrouting or resealing can be the right answer for cosmetic deterioration or a failed silicone joint, but it should not be sold to you as a cure for a leak.
Sources
- NCC 2022 Housing Provisions Part 10.2: wet area waterproofing and AS 3740
- NCC 2022 Housing Provisions Part 11.2: slip resistance of stairways and ramps, AS 4586
- NSW Government: wall and floor tiling work licence
- NSW Government: waterproofing work licence
- QBCC: wall and floor tiling trade licence scope
- SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica and the engineered stone ban
- SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica in construction
- WorkSafe Victoria: crystalline silica controls and the engineered stone prohibition
- ACCC: consumer guarantees for services
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of tile installation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare tile installers before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask tile installers before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Tile installation permits and local rules
Some tile installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
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Timber flooring is what most of the country calls a hardwood floor, and in Australia it is laid in three quite different situations: over a concrete slab poured on the ground, over a suspended timber subfloor with a…
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Floor Sanding & Polishing guide
Australians call this sanding and polishing, and the word polishing is misleading. Nothing is buffed the way stone is.
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