Skip to content
LokalMatch

Heated Floors

Heated Floors near you

Underfloor heating in Australia is mostly a comfort purchase rather than a heating strategy. Outside the alpine areas and the coldest parts of Victoria and Tasmania, the case for it is a warm bathroom floor on a July morning and a living room that does not need a fan blowing at you. That modest ambition is worth stating up front, because the way a heated floor is installed, and the obligations it triggers, differ enormously depending on how far you take it.

Tell us about your heated floor project and we’ll help you find local flooring contractors who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

The Australian building rules draw the line in an unexpected place, and it is the most important thing to know before you commit. Clause 13.2.6(4) of the ABCB Housing Provisions says that a concrete slab-on-ground with an in-slab or in-screed heating or cooling system must have insulation with an R-Value greater than or equal to 1.0 installed around the vertical edge of its perimeter. Clause 13.2.6(6) adds that the insulation must be water resistant and continuous from the adjacent finished ground level to a depth of at least 300 mm, or for the full depth of the vertical edge of the slab.

Then clause 13.2.6(7) carves out one narrow exception: the requirement does not apply to an in-screed heating or cooling system used solely in a bathroom, amenity area or the like. So a heated bathroom floor and a heated living area slab are two different projects under the rules, and the difference lands on the builder's scope, not the electrician's. That is why the first question is not which product, but where.

The heated floor systems installed in Australian homes

  • Electric in-screed cable or mat: a heating cable laid in the tile bed or a thin screed, the common bathroom retrofit, quick to warm and quick to cool.
  • Electric in-slab cable: cable tied to the reinforcement before the slab is poured, a new-build option with a very slow response that suits a continuously heated space.
  • Hydronic in-slab: warm water pipes cast into the slab, fed by a boiler or a heat pump, the highest capital cost and the system most often specified for a whole house in a cold climate zone.
  • Hydronic in-screed: pipes in a screed over an existing slab or a suspended floor, faster to respond than in-slab and thinner than a full topping.
  • Undertile heating mats sold as a retrofit kit, which are still electrical installation work and still need a licensed electrician to connect.
  • Underfloor heating over a suspended timber floor, laid between or over joists, which is a structural as well as a thermal question and needs the floor build-up checked.
  • Loose cable versus mat: the mat is faster to lay and fixes the spacing, loose cable lets the installer work around fixtures and vary the output where it is needed.

The insulation rule that governs a heated slab

Clause 13.2.6 of the ABCB Housing Provisions sets out floor insulation requirements, and subclause (4) singles out heated slabs: a concrete slab-on-ground with an in-slab or in-screed heating or cooling system must have insulation with an R-Value greater than or equal to 1.0 installed around the vertical edge of its perimeter. That obligation is independent of climate zone. It applies because the system is there, not because the location is cold.

Subclause (6) then specifies what that insulation has to be and where it has to go: water resistant, and continuous from the adjacent finished ground level either to a depth of not less than 300 mm, or for at least the full depth of the vertical edge of the concrete slab-on-ground. In other words, it is not a strip of foam thrown in at slab stage — it is a detail with a depth, a material property and a relationship to the finished ground level outside.

Subclause (7) provides the only relief: the requirement in (4) does not apply to an in-screed heating or cooling system used solely in a bathroom, amenity area or the like. That single sentence is why a heated bathroom floor is a realistic retrofit and a heated living area slab in an existing house often is not — retrofitting perimeter edge insulation around an existing slab means excavating around the house. Anyone proposing in-screed heating through your living areas should be asked directly how clause 13.2.6(4) is being satisfied.

This is electrical installation work, and it is not do-it-yourself

Every electric underfloor system, including the ones sold as retrofit kits, is electrical installation work. Service NSW states plainly that a licence is required for people to do residential building work, wiring, plumbing, draining, gasfitting and air conditioning or refrigeration work, and the equivalent applies in every state and territory through its own regulator. The cable is buried in a floor that will be tiled over, so a fault found later is a floor that has to come up.

That is also why the testing paperwork matters more here than on almost any other circuit. The cable is measured for resistance and insulation resistance before it is laid, again after it is laid and before the screed or tile bed goes on, and again after the floor is finished — three readings, recorded, so that if a reading changes everyone knows at which stage the damage happened. Ask for those readings in writing. A tiler who puts a trowel through a cable is a solvable problem on the day and an expensive one six months later.

The other trades need to know it is there too. A heating cable in a bathroom floor is a permanent constraint on anyone who later drills the floor for a shower screen, a toilet fixing or a vanity. A plan of the cable layout, photographed before the screed goes on and kept with the house documents, is the cheapest insurance there is.

What the floor covering does to the decision

Tile and stone are the natural partners for a heated floor: they conduct well, they are dimensionally stable and they tolerate the temperature. That is a large part of why heated floors in Australia are overwhelmingly bathroom tile jobs.

Timber is the difficult one, and Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide says why without ever mentioning underfloor heating. In its solid timber flooring clause it warns that exposure to sunlight, cooling, heating or other heat generating appliances is likely to cause localised shrinkage of timber that cannot be allowed for at the time of construction, and it excludes areas so affected from the gap tolerance it otherwise applies. A heated floor is, from the timber's point of view, a heat source applied continuously to its underside. If timber is going over heating, the board must be one the manufacturer approves for it, the system needs a floor sensor with a maximum surface temperature, and the warming and cooling has to be gradual.

Vinyl and engineered boards sit in between and are entirely governed by their manufacturer's stated maximum surface temperature. Carpet is the odd one out: it insulates, so it works against the system rather than with it, and a thick underlay can make an underfloor system barely perceptible. The point is that the covering and the heating have to be chosen together, by one person, before either is ordered.

How a heated floor goes in

In a bathroom retrofit, the sequence is: strip the floor back, prepare and level the base, set out the cable or mat around the fixtures and the shower area, record the pre-installation resistance readings, install the floor sensor in its conduit so it can be replaced later without breaking the floor, then the screed or tile bed, then the tiles. The electrician returns to connect the circuit, the thermostat and the protective devices, and the readings are taken again.

In a new-build slab, the sequence is earlier and involves the builder: the perimeter edge insulation required by clause 13.2.6(4) and (6) goes in as part of the slab detail, the cable or pipe is fixed to the reinforcement, and the pour has to happen without anyone standing on or dislodging it. Once it is in the slab it is permanent, so the layout has to anticipate where furniture, kitchen cabinetry and future walls will go.

Commissioning is the step most often rushed. A screed or a tile bed needs to dry before it is heated, and the first heating cycle is brought up in stages over days rather than switched on. Heating a floor too early drives moisture out too fast and cracks the bed. Ask for the commissioning schedule in writing and resist the temptation to test it the evening the tiler leaves.

The running cost question, asked properly

Nobody can tell you what a heated floor will cost to run without knowing the area, the output per square metre, your tariff and how many hours a day you intend to heat. What you can do is ask the installer for the connected load of the system in kilowatts and an estimate of daily run hours, and then work the energy out against your own tariff from your own bill. Any supplier who gives you a running cost without asking for your tariff has invented it.

The two design choices that move the number most are area and control. Heating only the part of a bathroom you stand on, rather than under the vanity and the shower base, cuts the load proportionally. And a thermostat with a floor sensor and a programmable schedule, rather than a simple room thermostat, is what stops a slow-response floor from being heated all day for two hours of benefit.

There is a deeper point about response time. An in-slab system has enormous thermal mass: it takes many hours to warm and many hours to cool, so it suits a house that is heated continuously through a cold season and suits a fast-changing Australian shoulder season poorly. An in-screed system in a bathroom responds in a fraction of that time and can genuinely be run on a timer. Matching the system's response to how you actually live is the difference between a comfort you use and a bill you resent.

What to keep, and where LokalMatch fits

Keep four documents together with the house papers: the cable or pipe layout plan photographed before it was covered, the three sets of resistance readings, the electrical certificate for the connection, and the thermostat and system manual with the maximum floor surface temperature written on it. Those four make every later repair, floor replacement and sale easier.

The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply as usual — acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, and a reasonable time — and the product warranties from the cable and thermostat manufacturers sit alongside them. Read what the cable warranty actually covers, because many cover the cable and not the cost of removing and reinstating the floor above it, and that is where the real expense of a failure lies.

When you brief installers on LokalMatch, say which rooms, what the floor covering will be, whether the base is a slab on ground or a suspended floor, and whether this is a new build or a retrofit. Ask each quote to state whether clause 13.2.6(4) applies to the rooms you have named and, if it does, how the perimeter insulation is being provided. The answers will sort the quotes quickly.

Heated Floors: frequently asked questions

Can I put underfloor heating in one bathroom without triggering the insulation rule?

That is exactly what clause 13.2.6(7) of the ABCB Housing Provisions allows. The requirement in 13.2.6(4) for perimeter edge insulation around a heated slab-on-ground does not apply to an in-screed heating or cooling system used solely in a bathroom, amenity area or the like. Extend the same system out into a hallway or a living area and you are outside that exemption.

Can I install a heating mat myself?

No. It is electrical installation work and requires a licensed electrician, as Service NSW and every other state regulator set out for wiring work. The cable also has to be tested before, during and after installation, and the readings recorded, because a cable damaged during tiling is only findable that way. Once the floor is on, a fault means the floor comes up.

Can I put a heated floor under timber?

Only with a board the manufacturer approves for it, a floor sensor limiting the surface temperature, and gradual warming and cooling. Queensland's guide warns that exposure to heating or other heat-generating appliances causes localised shrinkage in timber that cannot be allowed for at construction, and it excludes such areas from its gap tolerances. Expect movement and choose an engineered board.

How long does a slab system take to warm up?

Hours, not minutes — an in-slab system stores heat in the concrete and releases it slowly, which is why it suits continuous heating through a cold season rather than switching on for an evening. An in-screed system in a bathroom is far faster and can genuinely run on a timer. Match the response time to how you actually use the room.

What happens if the cable fails?

It is found by testing the circuit, and located with specialist equipment, then the floor is opened at that point and the cable repaired. It is disruptive and it is why the layout plan photograph and the three sets of resistance readings matter. Check whether the cable warranty covers only the cable or also the cost of getting to it.

Is it worth it in a warm part of Australia?

In a bathroom, many people think so, because a tiled floor is cold underfoot for a few months a year even in a mild climate and the system runs for a short scheduled period. As whole-house heating in a warm climate zone the case is much weaker, and the perimeter insulation obligation in clause 13.2.6(4) applies regardless of how mild your winter is.

Sources

  1. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022 (clause 13.2.6, floors and subfloor walls)
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 13.2 building fabric
  3. Service NSW: check a builder or tradesperson licence
  4. QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
  5. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of heated floor

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Heated floor permits and local rules

Some heated floor work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Free project calculators

Ready to get heated floor quotes?

Tell us about your heated floor project.

Do you offer heated floor services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.