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Epoxy Flooring

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An epoxy floor is not a covering laid on a slab. It is a chemistry set that bonds to the slab, and once it has cured it is part of it. That is the whole appeal — a seamless, hard-wearing, chemically resistant surface with no joints for dirt to sit in, which is why it turns up in Australian garages, workshops, laundries, pantries and increasingly in living areas as a decorative flake or metallic finish.

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It also means the outcome is decided almost entirely before the resin comes out of the tin. Epoxy sticks to what is presented to it. A slab with a curing compound, a sealer, old paint, oil, laitance or a dusty surface gives the resin nothing to grip, and the failure shows up months later as a sheet of coating lifting off in one piece. Preparation is not a line item to be trimmed. It is the product you are actually buying.

In Australia that preparation now sits inside a specific regulatory frame. Concrete is a crystalline silica substance, and since 1 September 2024 the processing of crystalline silica substances has been more tightly regulated across all industries. Grinding a garage slab is exactly the activity those rules were written about, which is one good reason it is not a weekend job with a hired machine and no extraction.

The resin floors sold in Australia, and what each is for

  • Roll-on epoxy coating: a thin two-pack film, the least expensive option, best suited to a light-duty garage and the most sensitive to poor preparation.
  • Flake or vinyl chip systems: a base coat, broadcast decorative flake and a clear topcoat, which hides slab imperfections, adds texture underfoot and is the common Australian garage finish.
  • Self-levelling or self-smoothing epoxy: a thicker poured layer that produces a genuinely flat, seamless surface and needs a sound, flat base to start with.
  • Metallic or designer epoxy: pigments moved through a clear resin for a marbled effect, a decorative product that is mostly about the applicator's skill.
  • Polyurethane and polyaspartic topcoats: often used over an epoxy base because they hold colour far better in sunlight, which matters on any floor that gets direct sun through a roller door.
  • Epoxy screeds and mortars: heavily filled systems used to rebuild a damaged slab surface rather than coat it.
  • Penetrating sealers and densifiers, which are not epoxy at all but are frequently quoted alongside it and do a different job — they harden and dust-proof the slab rather than coat it.

Preparation: grinding, profiling and testing the slab

The first step is mechanical, not chemical. Diamond grinding or shot blasting removes the surface layer of the slab along with whatever is on it, and leaves a profile — a measurable roughness — for the resin to key into. Acid etching is the cheap substitute and it is the single most common reason a garage floor coating peels; it does not reliably remove curing compounds or sealers and it can leave residue behind.

Then the repairs. Cracks are cut out and filled with a resin or a repair mortar rather than skimmed over, control joints are decided on — filled hard, filled flexibly or reflected through the finish — and spalled or pitted areas are rebuilt. What you decide about joints matters because a joint that is bridged rigidly will crack the coating above it when the slab moves, and a joint left open collects grit.

Finally, testing. Moisture in the slab is the second great killer of epoxy floors, because resin is a vapour barrier and moisture rising through the slab will push it off. A ground-floor slab is meant to sit on a polyethylene vapour barrier of 0.2 mm nominal thickness, lapped at least 200 mm and sealed at penetrations, but older slabs are unreliable on that point. Ask for a moisture test to the resin manufacturer's method, and for a stated plan — a moisture-tolerant primer, a different system, or waiting — if the reading is high.

Silica dust from grinding a slab, and the rules that changed in 2024

Concrete contains crystalline silica, and grinding it produces respirable dust. SafeWork NSW describes crystalline silica as a natural mineral found in products such as sand, concrete and granite, lists concrete and bricks among the materials containing it, and states a workplace exposure standard for respirable crystalline silica of 0.05 mg per cubic metre averaged over eight hours. Cutting, sanding and drilling are the activities named as producing the fine dust.

From 1 September 2024 the rules tightened nationally. In New South Wales the Work Health and Safety Amendment (Crystalline Silica Substances) Regulation 2024 amended the Work Health and Safety Regulation 2017 to provide for stronger regulation of the processing of materials containing crystalline silica across all industries, particularly where the processing is assessed as high risk. For high-risk processing the duties include instruction, information and training for workers about the health risks, a silica risk control plan developed from the risk assessment, air monitoring with results provided to the regulator, and health monitoring for workers.

For a homeowner, that translates into questions rather than obligations. Ask how the slab will be ground, whether the machines run on-tool extraction or water suppression, whether the contractor has done a risk assessment for the processing, and what the plan is for keeping dust out of the rest of the house. A contractor who cannot describe their dust control has almost certainly not done the assessment, and the same shortcut usually shows up in the preparation quality.

Licensing for resin floor work

Queensland names this work explicitly. The scope of the QBCC's floor finishing and covering (hard sector) licence class includes preparing, applying and finishing epoxy and seamless floor coverings, alongside the timber flooring work in the same class. So in Queensland the contractor laying your garage epoxy and the contractor sanding your hallway boards are licensed under the same class, which is a useful thing to know when you are checking a licence number against the work being quoted.

Elsewhere the picture varies. Service NSW's licence check covers residential building work as well as the occupational trades, and the other states and territories each set their own thresholds and classes through their own regulator. The habit that works everywhere is the same: get the licence number, check it against the register yourself, and ask the contractor to name the class and say what it authorises.

Two things sit outside licensing and still matter. Public liability insurance is worth confirming for work that involves grinders, dust and solvents in an attached garage. And if the epoxy is going into a wet area rather than a garage, waterproofing is a separate licensed trade in Queensland and a separate discipline everywhere — a resin coating is not a waterproof membrane and should never be quoted as one.

Why epoxy floors fail, and what the failure looks like

  • Sheets of coating lifting cleanly off a smooth slab, which is a bond failure and means the surface was never properly profiled.
  • Blisters and bubbles under the film, which usually means moisture pushing through from below or the coating was applied over a damp slab.
  • Hot tyre pickup, where the coating lifts in patches under a parked car, a heat-and-adhesion problem that thin roll-on systems are most prone to.
  • Cracks reflecting straight through the coating along the line of a slab joint that was filled rigidly.
  • Yellowing and chalking of a clear topcoat in sunlight through a roller door, which is a resin chemistry issue rather than a wear issue.
  • Roller marks, ridges or a patchy sheen, which point at a product applied outside its temperature or humidity window — a real constraint in an Australian summer.
  • A floor that is dangerously slippery when wet, which is a specification failure: an anti-slip aggregate has to be broadcast into the coating, and it cannot be added afterwards.

Keeping a resin floor

  • Sweep grit regularly, because a hard coating with sand on it is a grinding paste under a car tyre.
  • Wash with a neutral cleaner rather than a strong solvent or a citrus degreaser, both of which will soften some resins.
  • Wipe fuel, brake fluid and battery acid promptly; epoxy is chemically resistant, not chemically immune, and dwell time is what does the damage.
  • Put a mat under a frequently parked car in a hot garage, which is the simplest way to avoid hot tyre marking.
  • Do not drag toolboxes, jacks or trailers across it; a scratch through the topcoat is a path for moisture and dirt.
  • Plan for a topcoat refresh rather than a full replacement — most systems can be abraded and recoated, and doing it before the base coat is exposed is far cheaper.
  • Check the joints once a year, since a flexible joint filler is a wearing part and a failed one lets water under the coating.

Writing the scope so preparation cannot be quietly dropped

Because preparation is invisible once the floor is down, it is the part that disappears from cheap quotes. Write it in. Name the preparation method — diamond grinding or shot blasting, not acid etching — the crack and joint treatment, the moisture test method and what happens if it fails, the primer, the number of coats and the film build, whether an anti-slip aggregate is included and where, and the cure times before foot traffic and before a car goes back in.

Set expectations on appearance too. A resin floor is a hand-applied finish over an existing slab, so it will follow the slab's falls and its larger undulations, and a metallic or flake finish is deliberately variable. Agreeing in advance what counts as an acceptable variation, ideally against a sample panel made on your own slab, prevents the argument that otherwise happens at handover.

The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply whatever the contract says: acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, and delivery in a reasonable time. Keep the quote, the product data sheets and any photographs of the prepared slab before coating, because a photograph of a properly profiled slab is the single most useful piece of evidence in a bond-failure dispute. LokalMatch is the place to line several quotes up and see which ones have priced the preparation honestly.

Epoxy Flooring: frequently asked questions

Why do so many garage epoxy floors peel?

Because the slab was not mechanically prepared. Epoxy bonds to a profiled surface, and acid etching often fails to remove curing compounds, sealers or old paint. If a quote does not name diamond grinding or shot blasting, it is quoting a different and much shorter-lived job.

Can epoxy go over a damp slab?

Not safely without testing and, usually, a moisture-tolerant primer. Resin is effectively a vapour barrier, so moisture rising through the slab collects underneath and pushes the coating off as blisters. Ask for a moisture test to the manufacturer's method and a written plan for what happens if the reading is high.

Is the dust from grinding my slab a health risk?

Yes, if it is uncontrolled. Concrete contains crystalline silica and SafeWork NSW states a workplace exposure standard of 0.05 mg per cubic metre over eight hours for respirable crystalline silica. Since 1 September 2024 processing crystalline silica substances has been more tightly regulated, with extra duties where the processing is high risk. Ask what extraction or water suppression the contractor uses and stay out of the area while they work.

Will an epoxy floor be slippery?

A smooth gloss resin is slippery when wet, and that matters in a garage where cars come in after rain. Anti-slip aggregate is broadcast into the coating while it is wet, so it has to be specified up front — it cannot be added later without recoating. Say where you want it and how much texture you are willing to live with, because texture is harder to clean.

How long before I can park on it?

Foot traffic and vehicle traffic are two different cure times, and vehicle traffic is much longer. Get both from the contractor in writing for the specific product, and treat the vehicle date as firm — driving on a coating that has not fully cured is a common way to produce hot tyre marks and permanent tyre impressions in the first week.

Can I use epoxy in a bathroom or laundry instead of waterproofing?

No. A resin coating is a wearing surface, not a waterproof membrane, and wet area waterproofing is governed by the NCC wet area provisions, which reference AS 3740 Waterproofing of domestic wet areas, and it is a separately licensed trade in some states. Epoxy can sit over a properly waterproofed and graded floor, but it never replaces it.

Sources

  1. SafeWork NSW: Work Health and Safety Amendment (Crystalline Silica Substances) Regulation 2024
  2. SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica technical fact sheet
  3. QBCC licence class: floor finishing and covering (hard sector)
  4. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 4.2 footings, slabs and associated elements
  5. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 10.2 wet area waterproofing
  6. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of epoxy flooring

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare epoxy flooring installers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask epoxy flooring installers before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Epoxy flooring permits and local rules

Some epoxy flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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