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Skirting Boards

Skirting Boards near you

Skirting is the last thing installed and the first thing blamed. It is the board that runs along the base of the wall, and it is doing three jobs at once: covering the junction between two trades' work, hiding the expansion gap that a timber or floating floor needs at the perimeter, and taking the kicks, vacuum knocks and mop water that would otherwise land on plasterboard.

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Because it is fitted last, it inherits everybody else's tolerances. If the wall is not plumb, the skirting shows it. If the floor is not level, the skirting shows that too, since the board is straight and the floor is not. And the tolerance it is judged by is tight. Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide says that within the first twelve months, gaps between mouldings, or between mouldings and other fixtures, at mitre or butt joints or at junctions with a wall or other surfaces, are defects if they exceed 1 mm in width and are visible from a normal viewing position. It also says the faces of architraves and skirtings are defective if they are not aligned and flush at mitres and butt joints where the misalignment can be seen.

There is one more Australian consideration that surprises people. Queensland's guide notes that in that state, primary building elements as defined by the NCC include door jambs, window frames and reveals, architraves and skirtings. Skirting is not just trim in a termite claim; it is named.

What Australian skirting is made of, and where each belongs

  • Primed finger-jointed pine: the default in new Australian housing, stable, paint-only, and the most economical option for long straight runs.
  • Solid hardwood: used where the skirting is stained or clear-finished to match a timber floor, heavier, harder to fix and far less forgiving of an out-of-plumb wall.
  • Medium-density fibreboard: perfectly flat, takes paint beautifully, and swells irreversibly if it gets wet, which rules it out of bathrooms, laundries and anywhere a mop lives.
  • Moisture-resistant fibreboard: the compromise for wet-adjacent rooms, better than standard board but still not a wet area material.
  • Polyurethane or polystyrene profiles: fully waterproof, useful in bathrooms and laundries, and the profile range is narrower.
  • Tiled skirting or a tiled coved skirting: the traditional wet area answer, which is really part of the tiling job and needs the waterproofing to be right underneath it.
  • Aluminium or shadow-line systems: a recessed detail rather than an applied board, set during the plastering stage and impossible to add later.

The 1 mm rule, and what it is really measuring

Queensland's guide sets the benchmark for internal fixing plainly: within the first twelve months, and unless documented otherwise, gaps between mouldings or between mouldings and other fixtures, at mitre or butt joints, or at junctions with a wall or other surfaces, are defects if they exceed 1 mm in width and are visible from a normal viewing position. Separately, the faces of architraves and skirtings are defective if they are not aligned and flush at mitres and butt joints where the misalignment can be seen from a normal viewing position.

That is a tight number, and it is not really a test of the carpenter. It is a test of everything that came before. A 1 mm gap at the top of a skirting means the wall is straight; a 1 mm gap at a mitre means the corner is square; a consistent line along the floor means the floor is flat. Which is why a skirting quote on a renovation should include an allowance for scribing the board to an uneven floor, and why refusing that allowance is how you end up with a gap you can see from the doorway.

The guide also contains a detail worth knowing when you are reading plans: it explains that internal room sizes will be different once skirtings are fitted, because the documented set-out is to the structure. If a room dimension on a drawing matters to you — for a bed, a bath, a fridge cavity — the skirting comes off that dimension twice, once on each wall.

How skirting is fitted, and why the sequence matters

The order is usually: floor covering decided, then skirting, then the covering laid, or in some jobs the covering first and the skirting over it. Which way round it goes is a real decision and should be stated in the quote. A floating floor needs a continuous perimeter expansion gap, and the skirting covers that gap — but if the skirting is fixed down onto the floor instead of to the wall, it pins the floor and the floor will peak. Skirting fixes to the wall. Scotia or quad, if used, fixes to the skirting.

The board is then cut to the wall, not to the plan. Internal corners on a good job are scribed rather than mitred, because a scribed joint stays closed when the timber shrinks and a mitre opens. External corners are mitred and glued. Long walls are joined with a scarf joint on a stud rather than a butt joint in mid-air. These are small craft decisions and they are the entire difference between skirting that still looks right in five years and skirting that has hairline gaps at every corner.

Then fixing, filling, sanding and painting. Fixings go into studs and noggings where possible, gaps at the wall are caulked with a flexible paintable sealant rather than filled hard, and nail holes are filled and sanded before the top coat. Caulking the top edge is what makes the line look clean; filling it with hard filler is what makes it crack the first time the house moves.

Skirting, termites and the inspection zone

In a house with a termite management system, the skirting line is not neutral. Queensland's guide records that in that state primary building elements as defined by the NCC include door jambs, window frames and reveals, architraves and skirtings — so damage to skirting by termites is damage to a primary building element, not to decoration.

The system that is meant to prevent that relies on being visible. The ABCB Housing Provisions require a termite management system where a Class 1 or 10 building is in an area of potential subterranean termite risk and primary building elements are susceptible, complying with AS 3660.1 or tested to AS 3660.3, with a durable notice fixed permanently in a prominent location such as the meter box stating the system, the installation date, the life expectancy of any chemical and the inspection and maintenance recommendations. Queensland's guide adds that most systems rely on a 75 mm visual perimeter inspection zone at the slab edge so that termite workings are forced into view.

For skirting work the practical consequences are modest but real. Do not build anything at the internal perimeter that makes the external slab edge harder to inspect. Keep the durable notice where it is. And if you are lifting old skirting in a house in a termite area, look behind it while you have the chance — the back of a skirting board and the bottom of a wall frame are precisely where workings turn up, and it is the only time in a decade that you will have a clear view.

What a skirting problem is telling you about the rest of the house

  • A gap that opens at the top of the skirting along one wall, which usually means the wall or the floor has moved rather than that the skirting has shrunk.
  • Mitres opening at every external corner in one season and closing in another, which is timber moving with humidity and a reason scribed internals outlast mitred ones.
  • Swollen, blistered skirting in a bathroom or laundry, which is fibreboard that should never have been used there and is also telling you about water on the floor.
  • A skirting that has been pinned through the floor covering, visible as a floating floor peaking somewhere in the room.
  • Paint cracking in a hard line along the top edge, which is filler where flexible caulk should have been.
  • Nail heads showing through paint, which means they were not punched and filled before painting.
  • Mud tubes, a hollow sound when tapped, or blistered paint in a vertical line at the wall base, which needs a licensed pest inspector rather than a carpenter.

Repair a run, or replace the lot

Replacing a single damaged length is straightforward if the profile is still available and the paint finish can be matched. Both are bigger ifs than they sound: profiles change, and a wall painted five years ago will not match a fresh coat, so the honest scope is often to replace the board and repaint the whole run to the nearest corner.

Full replacement makes sense when the profile is being changed to suit a renovation, when the existing skirting is a fibreboard that has been damaged by water more than once, when a new floor covering means everything has to come off anyway, or when the existing boards are so heavily built up with paint layers that the profile has disappeared. It is also the moment to look behind the wall base, which you will not get again.

A middle path worth considering in older houses is keeping the existing skirting and adding a small scotia or quad at the floor. It hides a variable gap along an uneven floor without disturbing paintwork or plaster, and in a period house it can be a more sympathetic result than new machine-made board. It is not always the elegant answer, but it is a cheap and reversible one.

Writing a skirting scope that gets the finish you expect

Name the profile and height, the material, whether internal corners are scribed or mitred, how long walls are joined, whether the board is being scribed to an uneven floor, whether scotia is included, and what the paint finish is — primed only, one coat, or finished to a nominated sheen. Then add the acceptance standard: gaps at mitres, butt joints and wall junctions not exceeding 1 mm and visible from a normal viewing position, and faces aligned and flush at joints. Those two lines come straight from Queensland's guide and they give both sides something measurable.

Settle the sequencing with the floor installer in the same conversation. Who takes the old skirting off, who stores it, who refits it, and whether the skirting is fixed to the wall clear of the floor covering so a floating floor can move. That question causes more trouble on renovation jobs than any other detail in this trade.

The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply — acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, supply in a reasonable time — and licensing depends on the state and the value of the work, with Queensland running trade licence classes through the QBCC and New South Wales offering a licence check through Service NSW. Post the room list, the total linear metres and a photograph of an existing corner on LokalMatch, and ask each quote whether it includes scribing and painting.

Skirting Boards: frequently asked questions

How big a gap under my skirting is acceptable?

Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide uses 1 mm as the benchmark for new work: gaps at mitres, butt joints, or junctions with a wall or other surfaces are defects if they exceed 1 mm in width and are visible from a normal viewing position. On an existing floor that is not flat, achieving that means scribing the board to the floor, which is skilled work and should be on the quote.

Should the skirting sit on the floor or above it?

It should be fixed to the wall, not to the floor. A floating timber, laminate or vinyl floor needs a continuous expansion gap at the perimeter, and the skirting covers that gap without pinning the floor. Skirting nailed down through the covering is a common cause of a floor peaking in the middle of the room.

Can I use fibreboard skirting in a bathroom?

Standard medium-density fibreboard should not go in a bathroom or laundry, because it swells irreversibly once water gets into the cut edge and it will do so at the floor. Use a moisture-resistant board at minimum, a polyurethane profile, or a tiled skirting that forms part of the tiling and waterproofing.

Why do my skirting mitres keep opening?

Timber moves with humidity, and a mitred internal corner opens as the boards shrink because the joint is a thin angled face. A scribed internal corner, where one board is cut to the profile of the other, stays visually closed as it moves. Mitres are correct for external corners. If existing mitres are opening seasonally, flexible caulk and a repaint is the usual fix.

Does skirting matter for termites?

In Queensland it is named: the guide records that primary building elements as defined by the NCC include architraves and skirtings, so damage there is damage to a primary building element. More practically, the wall base is where workings appear, so lifting old skirting is one of the few chances you get to look behind it. Anything suspicious is a job for a licensed pest inspector.

Is it cheaper to paint skirting before or after fitting?

Priming and applying an undercoat before fitting is faster and gives a better finish on the profile, with the final coat after fitting and filling. The nail holes, the caulked top edge and the joints all need filling and sanding once the board is on the wall, so a top coat is unavoidable afterwards. Ask what the quote includes, because painting is often a separate trade.

Sources

  1. QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
  2. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 3.4 termite risk management
  3. Service NSW: check a builder or tradesperson licence
  4. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of baseboard

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare finish carpenters before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask finish carpenters before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Baseboard permits and local rules

Some baseboard work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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