Skip to content
LokalMatch

Floor Levelling

Floor Levelling near you

Flat and level are two different things and Australian trades measure them with two different tools. Level is about the whole plane: does the floor sit horizontal, or does one end of the room finish lower than the other. Flat is about local deviation: put a straight edge anywhere on the floor and see how far it rocks. A floor can be perfectly level and badly unflat, and it can be dead flat and running downhill. Almost every argument about floor levelling is really two people using one word for two problems.

Tell us about your floor levelling project and we’ll help you find local flooring contractors who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

That distinction decides what the work is. Correcting level across a room means building up a plane, usually with a screed, and it changes floor heights at doors and thresholds. Correcting flatness means grinding the high spots and filling the low ones with a levelling compound, which barely changes the average height at all. They cost different amounts, take different times and have different consequences, so a quote should say which one it is pricing.

The useful thing about Australia is that the numbers are published. Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide, last issued in December 2023, sets out what counts as defective for concrete floors, timber floors and tiled floors, and the tolerances are different for each. That means the question is not whether your floor is flat enough in the abstract, but whether it is flat enough for the covering that is about to go on it.

The tolerance that applies depends on what is going on top

For a concrete floor, Queensland's guide says new floors are defective within twelve months from completion if they differ in level by more than 10 mm in any room or area, or more than 12 mm in any 3 m length, where that deviation adversely affects safe use or reasonable amenity, and that the overall deviation of floor level across the entire building footprint must not exceed 20 mm.

For a timber floor the number tightens. The same guide says floor levels within a room or area are defective within twelve months if they differ by more than 10 mm in any room or area, or more than 4 mm in any 2 m length, again where that affects safe use or reasonable amenity. For tiling it is tighter still and stated as flatness rather than level: tiling is defective within twelve months if, measured with a straight edge, the finished surface is not flat or true within plus or minus 4 mm in 2 m from the required plane, with lippage between adjacent tiles defective above 2 mm, above 1.5 mm for tiles ground flat such as polished tiles, and above 1 mm for joint widths of 3 mm or less.

Read those three together and the logic is obvious: a slab that is perfectly acceptable as a slab may not be acceptable as a base for tiles. That is why the guide also states, separately, that the finish to a concrete slab is defective if it is not suitable for the documented applied finishes, naming tiles, polished concrete, carpet and sheet flooring, including set-downs where required. Levelling work exists to close the gap between what the builder was allowed to deliver and what the floor covering needs.

The ways a floor gets levelled

  • Grinding: taking the high spots off a concrete slab, which is the cheapest correction and often the only one needed on a slab that is flat except for a few trowel ridges or a stop line.
  • Patching compound: a trowel-applied cementitious filler for isolated hollows, feather-edged into the surrounding slab.
  • Self-levelling compound: a pourable cementitious topping that finds its own plane over a whole room, applied over a primer and to a minimum and maximum thickness set by the product.
  • Sand and cement screed: a thicker, trowelled bed used where the level change is too great for a levelling compound or where a fall has to be built in.
  • Fibre cement or plywood sheet overlay: a dry method used over a timber subfloor, which raises the floor by the sheet thickness and needs the joists checked first.
  • Packing and re-sheeting a timber subfloor: correcting at the joist or bearer rather than on the surface, which is the right answer when the structure is what is out.
  • Accepting a fall and working with it: sometimes the correct answer in a wet area, where the fall to a floor waste is deliberate and must be kept.

How to tell whether your floor actually needs levelling

  • A straight edge rocked across the floor in several directions shows daylight under the middle or the ends — that is flatness, and it is the one that ruins tile and plank floors.
  • A long spirit level or a laser shows the floor running consistently downhill in one direction — that is level, and it mostly matters at doors and against cabinetry.
  • Existing tiles with lippage you can feel with a bare foot, which means the base was not flat enough for the tile size used.
  • A floating floor that clicks or flexes in the same spot every time you walk across it, which is the underlay bridging a hollow.
  • Gaps under the skirting that vary along one wall, which often shows a fall rather than a shrinkage problem.
  • Doors that were trimmed at an angle by a previous owner, which is usually a level problem that was solved on the door instead of on the floor.
  • A ball placed in the middle of the room that consistently rolls to one corner, which is a crude test but a genuinely useful first one.

How the work runs, and the steps that get skipped

Survey first. A grid of levels taken across the room, recorded, gives you the shape of the problem and the volume of material needed. Without it, a levelling quote is a guess, and levelling compound is priced by the bag. Ask to see the survey, because it also tells you whether the problem is one hollow or the whole plane.

Then preparation, which is where most levelling failures are made. The slab has to be clean, sound and free of adhesive, paint, curing compound and laitance, and it has to be primed with the primer the compound manufacturer specifies. A self-levelling compound poured onto an unprimed or dusty slab will debond, and the failure shows up as hollow-sounding areas and eventually as cracking under the covering.

Then the pour or the screed, and then the wait. Cementitious levelling products have a minimum and a maximum thickness and a drying time before a covering can go down, and the drying time is longer than the curing time. In a humid Australian summer, or in a closed-up house, it can be considerably longer than the bag says. A floor covering laid over a compound that has not dried will trap that moisture, and the covering carries the blame for a problem that belongs to the timetable.

What goes wrong with levelling work

  • Debonding: the compound sounds hollow when tapped, because the slab was not primed or was not clean.
  • Cracking across the new surface, usually from applying it thinner than the product's minimum, or over a moving crack in the slab that was not isolated.
  • Feather edges that break away at the perimeter of a patch, which is a product being used outside its stated thickness range.
  • A floor that is now flat but still not level, or level but still not flat, because the wrong problem was diagnosed and priced.
  • Door clearances, thresholds and cabinet kickboards that no longer work, because the level change was not planned through the whole room.
  • A wet area fall to a floor waste destroyed by levelling, which is a serious problem: the building rules require a continuous fall of not less than 1:80 and not more than 1:50 to a floor waste.
  • A covering laid over compound that had not dried, which shows up as adhesive failure, cupping or a musty smell weeks later.

Level the floor, or change the plan

Not every unlevel floor should be levelled. If a slab is out by a large amount across a long room, the volume of compound needed becomes expensive and heavy, and the resulting height change can cascade through the doors, the skirting, the stair at the bottom step and the kitchen. It is sometimes better to choose a covering that tolerates the floor: a floating plank floor with a good underlay handles a gentle fall far more gracefully than a large-format tile does.

Tile size is the quiet variable. A large-format tile is a rigid plane, so it cannot follow a hollow, and the deviation shows as lippage at the joints — which Queensland's guide treats as defective above 2 mm, and above 1 mm where the joint width is 3 mm or less. Smaller tiles, or a slightly wider joint, absorb more of the base's imperfection. Changing the tile can be cheaper than changing the floor.

And if the floor is moving rather than merely uneven, levelling is the wrong job entirely. A slab that has cracked and stepped, or a timber floor that bounces, is telling you about the structure or the soil beneath it. Levelling over that buries the evidence and the new surface will crack again. That is a concrete levelling or foundation question, and it needs diagnosis before finishing.

Getting the tolerance into the contract

The single most useful thing you can do is name the tolerance in the quote, and name the covering it is for. Something as simple as requiring the finished base to be flat within plus or minus 4 mm in 2 m for a tiled floor, or within 4 mm in any 2 m length for a timber floor, turns a vague expectation into something both sides can measure with a straight edge. Queensland's guide gives you the numbers; using them is free.

Also settle who owns the levelling. On many jobs the flooring installer discovers the base is out on the day they arrive, and the levelling becomes a variation at their hourly rate. Having the base surveyed and levelled as its own scope, before the covering is ordered, removes that surprise and usually costs less.

The Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply to the work: acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, and supply within a reasonable time. Keep the level survey, the product data sheet for the compound and the drying times, since those three documents settle most later arguments. LokalMatch is the place to get the survey-based quotes side by side and see which contractor measured and which one estimated.

Floor Levelling: frequently asked questions

What is the difference between flat and level?

Level is whether the floor plane sits horizontal; flat is whether it has local humps and hollows. A floor can be one without the other. Tiles and planks care about flatness, because that is what causes lippage and flexing; doors, cabinetry and thresholds care about level. Ask which one your quote is fixing.

How flat does my floor need to be?

It depends on the covering. Queensland's guide treats tiling as defective if the finished surface is not flat or true within plus or minus 4 mm in 2 m, and treats a timber floor as defective if levels differ by more than 4 mm in any 2 m length or 10 mm in a room. Concrete floors are allowed more: 12 mm in any 3 m length and 10 mm in a room. Use the number for what is going on top.

Can levelling compound go over my existing tiles?

Often, if the tiles are sound and not drummy, and with the right primer for a non-absorbent surface. Loose tiles must come out first, because the compound will bridge them and then crack. Check the height consequence at doors and kickboards before committing, since you are adding the compound on top of the tile thickness.

How long before I can lay the floor on top?

Longer than the compound takes to harden. Curing and drying are different, and a covering laid over a compound that is still drying traps that moisture and fails. Get the drying time from the product data sheet, allow more in a humid or closed-up house, and if the covering is moisture-sensitive ask for a moisture reading rather than a calendar date.

Will levelling raise my floor?

Correcting flatness usually adds only a few millimetres on average. Correcting level across a whole room can add a great deal at the low end, and that height has to go somewhere: under doors, against skirting, at thresholds, at the kitchen kickboard and at the bottom step of a stair. Plan those consequences before you pour, not after.

My bathroom floor is not level. Should I fix it?

Probably not, because it may not be a fault. A wet area floor is deliberately graded to the floor waste, and the building rules require a continuous fall of not less than 1:80 and not more than 1:50 to the waste. Levelling that out is how people accidentally create a bathroom where water pools. Have the fall measured before anyone calls it a defect.

Sources

  1. QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
  2. QBCC: standards and tolerances guide
  3. ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 10.2 wet area waterproofing
  4. ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What affects the cost of floor levelling

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Floor levelling permits and local rules

Some floor levelling work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Free project calculators

Ready to get floor levelling quotes?

Tell us about your floor levelling project.

Do you offer floor levelling services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.