Concrete Floors
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A polished or honed concrete floor is not a floor you add. It is a floor you reveal. The slab was already there, poured for structure rather than appearance, and grinding it back exposes everything that happened on the day it was placed: where the truck stopped, where the finisher's trowel worked longer, where a conduit ran, where a plumber cut in and patched, where the joints were sawn, and how the aggregate settled. That is either the charm of the finish or the disappointment, and which one it turns out to be is largely decided before anyone starts grinding.
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The grinder also has a strict budget to work with. The ABCB Housing Provisions require footings and slabs-on-ground to have concrete cover between the outermost edge of the reinforcement and the surface of not less than 20 mm to an internal surface. That cover is what protects the steel, and it is also all the material a grinder has before it starts exposing things it should not. How much aggregate you see — a cream or fine-cut finish, a partial salt-and-pepper exposure, or full exposed aggregate — is a decision about how deep to cut into that budget.
None of that makes it a bad floor. It makes it a floor that has to be planned at slab stage in a new build, and assessed honestly in an existing house. A contractor who walks in, looks at the room, and quotes a finish without lifting the covering and examining the slab underneath is quoting a photograph.
The concrete finishes sold in Australia, and how deep each one cuts
- Burnished or trowel-finished concrete: the surface the finisher left, sealed rather than ground, with no aggregate exposed and every trowel mark and stop line visible.
- Cream or fine-cut polish: the lightest grind, taking off only the top skin, showing sand and occasional small stone.
- Salt-and-pepper: ground further so fine aggregate is exposed evenly across the floor.
- Full exposed aggregate: ground deeper again to reveal the large stone, the most dramatic finish and the one that cuts hardest into the cover over the reinforcement.
- Honed: ground and refined but stopped short of a gloss, then sealed — matte, less slippery and far more forgiving of repairs.
- Mechanically polished: taken up through progressively finer diamond grades with a chemical densifier, producing gloss from the concrete itself rather than from a coating.
- Grind and seal: ground to the desired exposure and then given a topical sealer, which is quicker and cheaper but is a coating that wears and eventually needs redoing.
- Overlays and micro-toppings: a thin cementitious layer applied over the existing slab and then polished, which is the answer when the slab underneath cannot be exposed.
What the slab is allowed to look like, and the numbers behind it
Queensland's Standards and Tolerances Guide is unusually direct on this point. It says that within the first twelve months, the finish to a concrete slab is defective if it is not suitable for the documented applied finishes, and it names polished concrete among them along with tiles, carpet and sheet flooring, including set-downs where required. In other words, if a new house was documented with a polished concrete floor, the slab has to have been poured and finished to suit that — which is why polishing an existing slab that was never intended to be seen is a different proposition.
The guide also sets the levelness numbers. New floors are defective within twelve months if they differ in level by more than 10 mm in any room or area, or more than 12 mm in any 3 m length, where that affects safe use or reasonable amenity, with overall deviation across the entire building footprint not exceeding 20 mm. Those are the same numbers that govern what a grinder can flatten, because grinding a slab level is limited by the cover over the reinforcement.
For cracks, the guide reproduces a damage classification from AS 2870 for concrete floors, running from hairline cracks under 0.3 mm with a change in offset from a 3 m straight edge under 8 mm, up through distinct cracks under 2.0 mm at Category 2, wide cracks of 2 mm to 4 mm with 15 mm to 25 mm of offset at Category 3, and gaps of 4 mm to 10 mm with more than 25 mm of offset at Category 4. Category 3 and 4 cracks to slabs are defects; Categories 1 and 2 are not. That table is the honest starting point for a conversation about whether the cracks in your slab are a feature you can live with or a problem to solve first.
How an existing slab becomes a finished floor
It begins with exposure, which is destructive and informative. The old covering, the adhesive, the tack strip and any levelling compound come off, and only then can anyone see the slab. This is the moment when the honest contractor renegotiates: a slab with a heavy adhesive residue, a set of service trenches, a patched section where a wall was removed, or a tiled area that was recessed, all change what is achievable.
Then a test patch, and it is worth insisting on one. A small area ground to the proposed exposure, in a spot you will see every day, tells you more than any photograph of somebody else's floor. It shows the actual aggregate in your slab, the actual colour, and how any repairs and joints will read. It also lets you discover before the whole floor is committed that you want less exposure, or more.
Grinding, patching and densifying follow, in passes of progressively finer diamonds, with the slab vacuumed between passes. Repairs are made with a matched patching compound and they will always be visible to some degree, because a repair has no aggregate. Then a densifier reacts with the concrete to harden the surface, and finally either further polishing to gloss or a sealer, depending on the system.
Grinding dust, and keeping it out of the rest of the house
Concrete is a crystalline silica substance, and grinding it produces respirable dust. SafeWork NSW names concrete among the materials containing crystalline silica and states a workplace exposure standard for respirable crystalline silica of 0.05 mg per cubic metre averaged over eight hours. Since 1 September 2024 the processing of crystalline silica substances has been more tightly regulated across all industries, with additional duties where processing is assessed as high risk, including a silica risk control plan, worker training, air monitoring and health monitoring.
Those duties belong to the contractor, not to you. What you should ask about is control: whether the grinders run on-tool extraction into a high-efficiency vacuum, whether wet grinding is being used and what happens to the slurry, how the work area is sealed from the rest of the house, and whether the ducted air conditioning returns are being covered. Grinding an internal floor in an occupied house is one of the dustiest things that can happen inside a home, and the difference between a well-controlled job and a poor one is enormous.
Plan to be out of the room, and for a house-wide job, out of the house. Fine dust settles for days after the machines stop, and getting it out of soft furnishings, wardrobes and ducted air conditioning afterwards costs more than the floor did.
What a polished slab reveals, and what it cannot hide
- Service conduits and plumbing chases cast into the slab, which appear as pale straight lines and cannot be removed.
- Patched areas where a wall was taken out or a fixture moved, which have no aggregate and will always read differently.
- Saw-cut control joints, which are part of how the slab works and are either filled and highlighted or filled and softened, but never made invisible.
- Variation in aggregate distribution from how the concrete was placed and vibrated, which is the main reason a test patch matters.
- Colour variation between pours, most obvious where an extension slab meets the original.
- Efflorescence — white crystalline deposit — where moisture is moving through the slab from below, which a sealer will trap rather than solve.
- Trowel burnish marks and stop lines, which show most on a light cream-cut finish and least on a deeper exposure.
- Cracks, which do not disappear: they are filled, they remain visible, and they can reopen if the cause is still active.
Living with a concrete floor
- Dust-mop or vacuum before wet cleaning, because grit dragged across a polished surface is what dulls it.
- Use a neutral pH cleaner; anything acidic, including many bathroom and citrus cleaners, etches concrete and the etch is permanent.
- Wipe wine, oil and acidic spills straight away — a polished floor is dense but not impermeable, and a penetrating sealer slows a stain rather than preventing it.
- Re-apply a penetrating sealer to the manufacturer's schedule, and expect a topical sealer in a grind-and-seal floor to need recoating in traffic areas long before the rest.
- Use felt pads under furniture and avoid dragging anything with a steel foot across it.
- Accept that the floor is hard and loud, and plan rugs and soft furnishings accordingly rather than trying to fix it afterwards.
- Watch the joints: a filled joint is a wearing part and will need refilling, especially in a doorway.
Agreeing what the floor will look like, before it exists
Almost every dispute about a polished concrete floor is a dispute about appearance, and the cure is a sample made on your own slab. Write the test patch into the quote — its location, its size and the fact that it is the reference for the finished floor — and photograph it. Then write down the exposure level, the gloss level, the joint treatment, how existing cracks and patches will be handled and what they are expected to look like, and the sealer or densifier system.
Be explicit about the limits too. A concrete floor follows the slab's falls, so a slight fall to a former wet area will remain. Repairs will be visible. The aggregate is whatever went into the truck. Getting that written down as an agreed characteristic rather than a defect is what protects both sides.
Behind the contract, the Australian Consumer Law guarantees apply: acceptable care and skill, fitness for any stated purpose, and supply within a reasonable time. Queensland's guide is also a useful yardstick if a dispute arises, because it publishes the crack categories and level tolerances that a slab is judged against. Use LokalMatch to get a few contractors to look at the same exposed slab — not at photographs of it — and to quote against the same test patch.
Concrete Floors: frequently asked questions
Can any slab be polished?
Most can be ground and sealed; not all will look the way people expect. A slab poured without a polished finish in mind can have uneven aggregate, service trenches, patches and joints that will all show. The way to find out is to expose a section and grind a test patch before committing to the whole floor.
How deep can the grinder go?
Less deep than people assume. The ABCB Housing Provisions require not less than 20 mm of concrete cover between the reinforcement and an internal surface, and that cover protects the steel. Deeper aggregate exposure and levelling out high spots both eat into it, which is why a contractor may tell you the exposure you want is not available on your slab.
Will the cracks in my slab show?
Yes. They can be filled and the fill can be tinted, but they remain visible and a crack whose cause is still active can reopen. Queensland's guide reproduces a damage classification from AS 2870 running from hairline cracks under 0.3 mm to gaps of 4 mm to 10 mm, and treats Category 3 and 4 cracks as defects. Have yours measured and classified before you decide.
Is polished concrete slippery?
A high-gloss polished surface is slippery when wet, which matters at an external door, in a kitchen and anywhere a wet foot lands. A honed matte finish, or a sealer with a slip-resistant additive, is the usual answer. Decide this by where water will actually land in your house rather than by how the sample looks in the showroom.
How much dust will there be?
A great deal unless it is controlled, and concrete dust contains crystalline silica, which SafeWork NSW gives a workplace exposure standard of 0.05 mg per cubic metre over eight hours. Ask what extraction the machines run, whether wet grinding is being used, how the area is sealed and whether the air conditioning returns are covered. Plan to be out of the house for a whole-floor job.
What is the difference between polished concrete and grind and seal?
Mechanically polished concrete gets its gloss from the concrete itself, taken up through diamond grades with a densifier, and it wears as the concrete wears. Grind and seal gets its gloss from a coating laid over a ground surface, which is quicker and cheaper but is a wearing film that will need stripping and recoating, typically first in the traffic lanes.
Sources
- QBCC Standards and Tolerances Guide (Queensland, December 2023)
- ABCB Housing Provisions Standard 2022, Part 4.2 footings, slabs and associated elements
- SafeWork NSW: crystalline silica technical fact sheet
- SafeWork NSW: Work Health and Safety Amendment (Crystalline Silica Substances) Regulation 2024
- ACCC: consumer rights and guarantees
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 22 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of concrete floor
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare concrete floor contractors before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask concrete floor contractors before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Concrete floor permits and local rules
Some concrete floor work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
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Floor Sanding & Polishing guide
Australians call this sanding and polishing, and the word polishing is misleading. Nothing is buffed the way stone is.
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