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In Canada, the right floor depends on the room as much as on taste. Basements sit on concrete that can stay cool and damp, kitchens and bathrooms get wet, and dry heated winters followed by humid summers make wood shrink and swell. Older homes add another risk: vinyl tiles, sheet flooring or glue that may contain asbestos, hidden under the layer you plan to replace.
This page compares the main floor types, matches them to rooms, and covers subfloor preparation, acclimatization, asbestos, reading quotes and licensing in Quebec. Separate pages go deeper into hardwood installation, refinishing and laminate.
Types of flooring compared: hardwood, engineered wood, laminate, vinyl, tile and carpet
Every floor trades looks and comfort against moisture tolerance, repairability and how often it can be renewed. The comparison below is qualitative: products within one family vary widely, and the manufacturer's specifications settle the details.
- Solid hardwood: wood through its full thickness, warm and long-lived, and it can be sanded several times, but it reacts most to humidity and generally isn't meant for concrete below grade.
- Engineered hardwood: a real wood wear layer on a stable core that moves less; it can go over concrete or radiant heat when the maker allows it, and can be sanded as often as its wear layer permits.
- Laminate: a printed image under a hard, clear layer on a fibreboard core, installed as a floating floor; it resists scratches but can't be sanded, and its core dislikes standing water.
- Vinyl sheet, plank and tile: flexible or rigid plastic-based flooring that handles moisture better than wood-based floors, though a deep dent or burn usually means replacing the piece.
- Ceramic and porcelain tile: hard and unaffected by water, ideal for bathrooms, entrances and heated floors, but cold underfoot and dependent on a stiff, flat base to avoid cracks.
- Carpet: soft, warm and quiet in bedrooms and family rooms, but it holds dust and moisture and suits no room where spills or dampness are likely.
Best flooring by room: basements on concrete, kitchens, bathrooms and radiant heat
Start with the room's conditions, then keep only the products whose manufacturer approves that use: installing a floor outside those conditions can void the product warranty.
- Basement on concrete: the slab can stay cool and release moisture, so vinyl, tile or engineered wood approved for below grade is usual, after a moisture test and with the barrier or underlay the product requires; any leak gets fixed first.
- Kitchen: spills and long hours standing call for an easy-clean, forgiving floor; tile, vinyl and water-resistant laminate are common, and wood works when spills are wiped up quickly.
- Bathroom: tile is the classic choice, and sheet vinyl or waterproof vinyl plank also fit; wood-based floors, most laminate included, are risky around a tub or toilet.
- Radiant heat: tile and stone carry heat best; engineered wood, vinyl and some laminate work if the product is approved for heated floors and its temperature limits are respected.
- Bedrooms and living areas: comfort and looks lead, so wood, laminate and carpet all fit, with underlay chosen for sound in condos and upstairs rooms.
- Entrances: snow, salt and grit arrive all winter, so tile or tough vinyl at the door protects the wood beyond it.
Subfloor preparation and floor levelling before new flooring goes down
Most floor failures start underneath. A bouncy or squeaky subfloor, a hump over a joist or a dip near an old wall shows through thin flooring, cracks tile and grout, or opens the joints of a click floor. Before confirming the scope, the installer should check the whole area with a long straightedge and look for soft spots, old water damage and loose panels.
Each product's instructions state how flat the base must be, and click floors and large tiles are the least forgiving. The fix may be screwing down loose sheathing, replacing damaged panels, sanding high seams or pouring self-levelling compound into low areas; on concrete, ridges are ground and cracks patched. A floor that sags because of the framing is a structural problem for a carpenter or engineer, not something a thicker underlay can hide.
Acclimatizing new flooring and controlling indoor humidity through Canadian winters
Wood-based floors take on and release moisture with the air around them. Heating dries Canadian homes all winter and humid summers bring the moisture back, so boards shrink and open small gaps in January and swell in July. Installing material straight from a cold truck or a damp warehouse is a common cause of later gaps, cupping and buckling. The manufacturer says how to store and acclimatize its product, and some engineered and vinyl floors need little or none, so follow the instructions for the product you bought.
Health Canada recommends keeping indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50%. The advice is aimed at preventing mould, but steady humidity within that range also helps wood floors: a humidifier in winter, and a dehumidifier or air conditioning in muggy weather or a damp basement, limit seasonal movement, and a simple hygrometer shows where your home actually sits. Wet work such as drywall compound, plaster or a new slab should be finished and dry before the floor goes in.
Asbestos in old vinyl tiles, sheet flooring and adhesives: never sand or scrape them
Health Canada says asbestos was used in building materials before 1990 and lists floor tiles among them. The Quebec government, noting that asbestos products were mainly used in construction between 1930 and 1990, names vinyl tiles, linoleum and adhesive coatings among the floor coverings that may contain it. In older homes these often lie under carpet, laminate or newer vinyl, and the glue under old tiles or sheet flooring deserves the same caution.
Health Canada explains that intact, undisturbed materials pose no significant health risk, but that drilling, sawing, sanding, scraping, removing or breaking them releases fibres. Never sand, scrape, grind or pull up suspect flooring or glue yourself, and don't let demolition start until a professional has tested it. If asbestos is found, a qualified removal specialist takes it out, or the old floor may stay undisturbed under the new one, a decision to make with that professional. When in doubt, the Quebec government advises treating a material as if it contains asbestos.
Comparing flooring quotes line by line: layout, method, surprises and warranties
Quotes for the same room often differ because they describe different jobs. Before comparing totals, line them up item by item and have each contractor fill any gaps in writing.
- Layout: the same rooms, closets and stairs, and the same pattern, since diagonal or herringbone layouts take more time and material.
- Method: floating, glued or nailed, and whether it's one the manufacturer allows over your subfloor.
- Surprises: how repairs or levelling discovered after tear-out will be priced and approved before work continues.
- Moisture: whether the slab or subfloor will be tested before installation, and what happens if it's too wet.
- Schedule: time allowed for acclimatization and for levelling compound, adhesive or site-applied finish to cure.
- Warranties: the installer's workmanship warranty is separate from the product warranty, which often depends on following the instructions exactly.
RBQ licence for flooring contractors in Quebec, and when to ask your city
In Quebec, a contractor doing renovation work in your home must hold a licence from the Régie du bâtiment du Québec (RBQ) that carries the subclasses matching the work. Ask for the licence number and look it up in the RBQ's online registry before signing. Building permits are a municipal matter, so ask your city before any work on joists or other structural parts, and in a condo, check with the syndicate or condo corporation before changing floors.
Flooring Contractors: frequently asked questions
Can new flooring be installed over an existing floor?
Sometimes. The old floor must be flat, firmly attached and accepted as a base in the new product's instructions, and the added height has to clear doors, appliances and stairs. Carpet always comes up. If the old floor is vinyl in a home built before 1990, have it tested before anyone decides to remove it.
Why do gaps open between wood floorboards in winter?
Dry heated air makes the boards shrink. Gaps that close again in summer are normal seasonal movement, and steadier humidity through the winter reduces them. Gaps that stay open all year, or boards that cup or lift, point to a moisture or installation problem worth having inspected.
Who connects an electric heated floor?
The flooring or tile installer usually lays the heating mat or cable, but connecting it to the power supply and thermostat is electrical work for a licensed electrician. The floor covering on top must also be approved for heated floors.
Will the installer remove and reinstall my baseboards?
Practices differ. Some installers remove the baseboards and reinstall or replace them for a clean edge; others leave them and add quarter round to hide the expansion gap. Agree on it before work starts, along with who paints or touches up the trim afterward.
Do I need to leave home while floors are installed?
Usually not for a floating or nailed floor, though the rooms being done are off-limits and cutting makes noise and dust. Glued floors, levelling compound and site-applied finishes bring odours and waiting times, so plan around the curing times the products state.
Sources
- Asbestos and your health — Health Canada
- Asbestos in the home — Health Canada
- Preventing health problems associated with asbestos — Gouvernement du Québec
- Guide to addressing moisture and mould indoors — Health Canada
- Choosing a contractor — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
- Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Reviewed by Zubair Afzal on September 10, 2026. How we write and check our guides