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Grout Repair

Grout Repair near you

Regrout and seal tile floors, walls and showers. Tell us about your grout repair project and we’ll help you find local tile installers who serve your area.

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Grout repair renews the joints between tiles on floors, walls, backsplashes and showers: raking out grout that's cracked, crumbling, missing or permanently stained, packing in fresh grout, and sealing or colour-sealing it afterwards. It also covers the flexible joints where tile meets a tub, a shower base, a countertop or a change of plane, which should hold sealant rather than grout and fail in their own way.

Grout is more than looks. Cracked or missing joints let water into the mortar bed and, in a shower, onto the membrane or backer behind the tile, and grout that keeps cracking in the same place is often reporting movement rather than wear. A good repair starts by working out which of those is going on.

This page covers signs that grout needs repair, regrouting, cement and epoxy grout, sealers and colour sealants, movement joints and caulk, mould, and water behind shower tile. Routine deep cleaning is on the tile and grout cleaning page, and cracked or loose tiles on the tile repair page.

Signs grout needs repair, not just cleaning

Cleaning revives grout that's merely dirty. Repair is for joints that are physically failing or holding water, and a few checks tell the two apart.

  • Cracks along the joints, or grout that crumbles when you drag a key along it, mean the grout itself has failed.
  • Gaps, pinholes and low spots where grout has worn or washed out leave water a path into the bed beneath.
  • Stains that come back right after cleaning, or grout that stays dark long after a shower, show the joints are soaking up water.
  • Cracks that follow one line through several joints, or reappear soon after regrouting, point to movement below the tile.
  • Split or peeling caulk along a tub, shower base or countertop is a separate failure from the grout and is fixed with new sealant.
  • Loose or hollow tiles alongside failing grout mean the problem sits under the tile, as the tile repair page explains.

Regrouting tile: raking out old grout, packing new joints and curing

Regrouting removes the old grout to a consistent depth with a grout saw, carbide scraper or oscillating tool, taking care not to chip glazed tile edges. Scraping off only a thin surface skin leaves new grout too shallow to bond, so it cracks and pops out again. The joints are vacuumed clean, dampened if the grout maker calls for it, and packed with grout worked diagonally across them, then tooled to an even profile before the haze is wiped from the tile.

Fresh cement-based grout has to cure before it gets wet or sealed; its label gives the waiting times, which stretch in a cool room, so plan on using another shower for a while. Grinding out cement grout also raises crystalline silica dust, which the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety lists as a known cause of lung cancer, so expect dust extraction on power tools, a closed-off room and a HEPA vacuum instead of a broom.

Cement grout vs epoxy grout vs premixed grout: choosing grout for a repair

The grout going back in doesn't have to match the kind that came out, but it should suit the joint width, the tile surface and how wet the room gets.

  • Sanded cement grout: the traditional choice for wider joints, forgiving to work with but porous, so it stains and usually benefits from a sealer.
  • Unsanded cement grout: for narrow joints and for tiles whose glaze or polish sand could scratch, with the same porosity.
  • Polymer-modified cement grout: additives improve strength and cut absorption compared with plain cement grout, though sealing is still often recommended.
  • Epoxy grout: highly resistant to stains, water and many chemicals and needs no sealer, but it sets fast and must be cleaned off the tile face promptly, so it suits experienced installers.
  • Premixed urethane or acrylic grout: ready to use and stain-resistant, with cure times and wet-area limits that vary by maker.
  • Switching types: new grout bonds poorly to leftover old grout, so the joints are raked out fully when changing from cement to epoxy.

Grout sealer and colour sealant: what each does and when to reapply

A penetrating sealer soaks into cement-based grout and slows how quickly water, grease and dyes get in. It doesn't make grout waterproof and does nothing for water that finds a crack. It goes on once the grout has cured as its label requires, and a quick test shows when to reapply: drops of water that darken the grout within moments, instead of beading, mean the protection has worn off.

Colour sealants, sometimes sold as grout paint or grout stain, are opaque coatings brushed onto clean, sound grout to even out patchy colour or change it entirely. They're a cosmetic finish rather than a repair: over cracked or crumbling grout they peel along with it, and on floors they wear first in the traffic lanes. Epoxy and most premixed grouts need neither treatment, so find out what's in the joints before buying a sealer.

Movement joints and caulk: where tile needs flexible sealant instead of grout

Grout is rigid, so it cracks wherever two surfaces move independently: the inside corners of a shower, where wall tile meets a tub or floor, around the edges of a floor, and where tile meets a countertop, window or other material. Those joints should hold a flexible sealant made for the purpose, often colour-matched to the grout. A crack running neatly up every inside corner usually means someone grouted a joint that needed sealant.

Sealant has a shorter life than grout and is replaced rather than patched. The old bead is cut and scraped out completely, residue removed and the joint dried thoroughly before a new bead is laid and tooled; fresh caulk over old caulk or over mould traps moisture and peels. Large floors and heated floors also need movement joints within the tiled field, placed as the installation instructions require, and grouting over them brings the cracks straight back.

Mould in grout and shower caulk: small patches, cleaning products and humidity

Black spots in grout and along caulk lines are common in bathrooms, and they signal moisture as much as a cleaning job. Health Canada's mould guide treats three or fewer patches totalling less than 1 m² as a small area that can be cleaned using proper procedures and protective equipment, while larger or returning growth calls for a professional. Mould that has grown into silicone sealant can't be scrubbed out, so the bead is cut away and replaced once the joint has dried.

Cleaning products carry their own risk. Health Canada warns never to mix bleach with other chemicals, especially products containing ammonia or acids such as vinegar, and to ventilate with windows open or exhaust fans running during and after use. Many grout haze removers and descalers are acidic, so read every label. To keep mould from coming back, Health Canada recommends indoor relative humidity between 30% and 50%, and a bathroom fan run during and after showers helps get there.

Water behind shower tile: when regrouting won't fix a leak

Regrouting renews the surface of a shower, but it can't repair the waterproofing behind it. When water has already reached the backer, the signs usually show beyond the tile: grout that stays dark long after the water's off, tiles that feel loose or sound hollow, peeling paint or swelling trim outside the enclosure, a musty smell, or a stain on the ceiling below.

  • Fresh grout over a wet, soft wall cracks and loosens again, and it can hide rot or mould spreading behind it.
  • Showers built over ordinary drywall or without a continuous membrane often need the wall opened rather than regrouted.
  • A leak can also come from the valve, shower arm or drain, which a plumber should rule out before the tile gets the blame.
  • A careful pro presses on tiles, takes moisture readings or lifts a tile to inspect the backer before quoting a regrout.
  • Where the wall is sound and dry, regrouting plus new sealant at the corners and base restores the surface protection.

Grout Repair: frequently asked questions

Can new grout go over old grout?

Only when enough old grout is removed to give the new grout real depth. A thin skim over existing grout doesn't bond and flakes off, so a proper repair rakes the joints out first.

Why is my new grout cracking?

Usually the grout was mixed too wet, the joints were too shallow, it dried too fast, or it's filling a joint that needed flexible sealant. Cracks that follow a line across the floor suggest movement under the tile that regrouting alone won't cure.

Is epoxy grout worth it in a shower?

It resists stains and water well and never needs sealing, which suits showers and backsplashes. It's harder to install, though, and it won't stop a leak behind the tile, so the waterproofing still has to be sound.

Can I regrout just part of a floor or shower?

Yes, but new grout rarely matches old joints exactly, even in the same colour, because the old grout has aged and absorbed stains. Pros often regrout a whole wall or floor, or finish with a colour sealant so everything matches.

Should the corners of my shower be grouted or caulked?

Caulked, with a flexible sealant suited to wet areas. Inside corners and the joint at the tub or shower base move slightly, so grout there cracks. Grout belongs in the flat joints between tiles.

Sources

  1. Guide to addressing moisture and mould indoors — Health Canada
  2. Use household chemicals safely — Health Canada
  3. Silica, quartz — Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of grout repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare tile installers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask tile installers before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Grout repair permits and local rules

Some grout repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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