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Vinyl Flooring

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Vinyl flooring covers several products that share a plastic-based wear surface: sheet vinyl rolled out in wide pieces, vinyl tiles, and luxury vinyl plank and tile that imitate wood or stone. It's one of the most common choices where water, spills or a concrete slab rule out wood, and a good installation looks clean, feels comfortable underfoot and shrugs off wet boots and splashes.

Vinyl is thin compared with most floors, so what lies underneath matters more than people expect. A flexible product shows every bump, seam and screw head in the subfloor, a rigid click plank rocks over a dip, and the old flooring under the new one may need testing before anyone lifts it. Whether to glue or click, and whether an underlay belongs, depends on the product and the room.

Below: vinyl types and the rooms they suit, subfloor prep, glue-down vs click, ventilation, asbestos in older floors, care and repairs. The flooring contractors page compares vinyl with other floors.

Sheet vinyl, vinyl tile and luxury vinyl plank: the main types of vinyl flooring

Every vinyl floor has a clear wear layer over a printed design, but the backing and core underneath decide how it's installed and how it behaves.

  • Sheet vinyl: wide rolls with few or no seams, well suited to bathrooms and laundry rooms where water shouldn't find a joint; depending on the product, it's fully glued, glued at the edges or laid loose.
  • Vinyl tile: square or rectangular pieces, glued or self-adhesive; the thin, firm tiles long used in kitchens and basements are easy to replace one at a time but show every joint.
  • Flexible luxury vinyl plank and tile: thicker, realistic wood or stone looks with a pliable body, usually glued down, which follows the subfloor closely and needs it very smooth.
  • Rigid-core luxury vinyl: a stiff composite core with click edges for a floating installation; it hides small imperfections better and often comes with a pad attached.
  • Wear layer: the clear top film that protects the print; a thicker one generally resists scuffs better, and the maker states the intended use.

Where vinyl flooring works best: basements, kitchens, bathrooms and condos

  • Basements: vinyl doesn't rot or swell like wood-based floors, which is why it's common on concrete slabs, but the slab still needs a moisture test, since trapped dampness can loosen adhesive or feed mould under the floor.
  • Kitchens: it handles spills and is comfortable for long hours standing, but heavy appliances and dropped pots can dent softer products, so slide the fridge or range out on plywood.
  • Bathrooms: sheet vinyl with few seams keeps water on top best; planks work when the maker approves wet rooms and the edges at the tub and toilet are sealed as instructed.
  • Condos: vinyl is quieter underfoot than tile, but impact noise below still depends on the underlay and the building, and many syndicates or condo corporations approve products before work starts.
  • Entrances and sunny rooms: vinyl tolerates snowmelt, though grit wears the surface, and strong sun through large windows can fade some products or heat planks enough to move.

Subfloor flatness and preparation before a vinyl floor goes down

Flexible vinyl is thin enough to show what it sits on. A screw head, a gap between plywood panels, a ridge of old glue or a grain of sand left behind becomes a bump, a line or a worn spot within months, a problem installers call telegraphing. That's why glue-down vinyl goes over a smooth plywood underlayment or a slab that's been ground, patched and cleaned, rather than straight onto boards or rough sheathing.

Rigid-core planks forgive small flaws but still need the floor flat along its length: over a dip or hump, the joints flex with every step until the locking edges break or open. The installer checks with a long straightedge, fills low spots with patching or self-levelling compound and sands high seams to the tolerance in the product's instructions. On concrete, a moisture test comes first, because both adhesives and pads have limits on the moisture they tolerate.

Glue-down vs click vinyl, and when an underlay belongs underneath

Glue-down installation bonds sheet vinyl, tiles or flexible planks to the subfloor with an adhesive matched to the product and the base. The result is stable and quiet, stays put under rolling loads and suits large or irregular rooms, but it demands careful prep and is harder to remove later.

Click installation locks rigid planks into a floating floor, much like laminate. It goes down quickly, can cover some existing hard floors when the maker allows it, and a damaged plank can be unclicked from the nearest wall. It needs expansion space at walls and fixed objects, and heavy islands or cabinets must not pin it.

Underlay mainly concerns floating floors. Many rigid planks have a pad attached, and adding another can void the warranty; others call for a specific underlay, sometimes with a vapour barrier over concrete. Glue-down vinyl gets no cushion, only a smooth underlayment. In a condo, confirm that the acoustic underlay the building requires is compatible with the product before buying either.

Temperature, sunlight and ventilation when installing vinyl flooring through the seasons

Vinyl expands as it warms and shrinks as it cools, and adhesives only bond properly within the temperature range on their label. Material delivered from a cold truck in January, or a room left unheated during renovations, can lead to gaps, weak adhesion or planks pushing against the walls once the heat comes back. Follow the maker's instructions on storing the boxes in the room and keeping it heated before, during and after installation.

New floors, and especially their adhesives, can smell for a while. Health Canada lists glues among the building materials that release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) indoors, and recommends increasing ventilation while using them and choosing low-emission products where possible. In winter, when opening windows is harder, running bathroom fans, the range hood or the home's ventilation system helps.

Removing old vinyl flooring: asbestos in older sheet vinyl, tiles and glue

Many vinyl jobs start with an old floor, sometimes several layers of it. In homes built or renovated before 1990, the old tiles, the sheet vinyl and the glue underneath can contain asbestos: Health Canada names floor tiles among the building materials that may contain it, and the Quebec government lists vinyl tiles, linoleum and adhesive coatings. The flooring contractors page explains the risk in more detail.

Don't sand, scrape, grind or chip at suspect vinyl or adhesive to get a clean surface, and don't let an installer do it before a sample has been tested. Health Canada explains that fibres are released when such materials are disturbed, not while they stay intact. Once the results are in, the options are removal by a qualified asbestos abatement contractor or, when the new product allows it and the old floor is sound, covering it undisturbed with an underlayment or a floating floor, a choice to make with that specialist.

Caring for vinyl floors: cleaning, furniture protectors and stain prevention

  • Damp-mop with a cleaner the manufacturer approves, and skip abrasive powders, solvents and steam unless the instructions allow them.
  • Avoid rubber-backed mats and rugs, which can permanently stain some vinyl; choose mats the maker approves.
  • Put wide, non-staining protectors under furniture and appliance feet, since narrow or metal legs can dent a soft surface.
  • Wipe up spills and salty winter slush promptly: water won't hurt most vinyl, but it can seep through joints to the subfloor.
  • Keep a few spare planks, tiles or an offcut of sheet vinyl from the same lot for future repairs.

Repairing vinyl flooring: what can be fixed and when to replace it

Vinyl can't be sanded or refinished, so repairs swap material rather than renew it. A damaged click plank is replaced by unlocking the rows from the nearest wall or cutting it out in place; on a recent floor, a glued plank or tile is warmed to soften the adhesive and lifted out; and a tear or burn in sheet vinyl is patched with a piece cut from an offcut, pattern aligned, and seamed in.

Replacement makes more sense when the floor lifts or bubbles over a wide area, which usually points to moisture or failed adhesive, when seams open across the room, when the pattern has worn through in traffic lanes or when no matching material exists. The cause, often a damp slab or an uneven subfloor, is fixed before a new floor goes in. On a floor old enough to contain asbestos, any repair that cuts or lifts material waits for a test result.

Vinyl Flooring: frequently asked questions

Is vinyl flooring the same as linoleum?

No, although in Quebec both are often called prélart. Linoleum is made from natural materials such as linseed oil, while vinyl is plastic-based. Each has its own installation and care requirements, so choose an installer who works with the one you want.

Is luxury vinyl plank waterproof?

The planks themselves generally aren't harmed by water, but the floor as a whole isn't a waterproof barrier: water that runs through the joints or around the edges can reach the subfloor. Deal with spills and leaks quickly, and check how the warranty defines water resistance.

Can vinyl flooring go over ceramic tile?

Often, if the tile is sound, well bonded and flat, and the product's instructions allow it. Grout lines show through flexible vinyl unless they're filled with a skim coat first, while rigid click planks tolerate them better. Check that the added height still clears doors and appliances.

Why are my vinyl planks separating?

Usually temperature swings, strong sun, an uneven subfloor that flexes the joints, or planks pinned by cabinets or trim. Fix the cause, then have the installer re-lock or replace the affected planks.

Sources

  1. Volatile organic compounds — Health Canada
  2. Asbestos and your health — Health Canada
  3. Preventing health problems associated with asbestos — Gouvernement du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of vinyl flooring

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Vinyl flooring permits and local rules

Some vinyl flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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