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Carpet Installation

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Carpet installation covers wall-to-wall carpet in bedrooms, family rooms, basements and on stairs: choosing the carpet and underpad, taking up the old covering, stretching the new carpet tight over tack strips and finishing the doorways. Carpet is still the softest, warmest and quietest floor you can put down, which keeps it popular in bedrooms, upstairs hallways and condos where footsteps carry.

Most of what separates a carpet that stays flat for years from one that ripples within a season happens out of sight: the right underpad, seams placed away from traffic and side light, and proper power stretching. The fibre and the way the carpet is built decide how it feels, how it holds up in traffic and how it copes with pets, spills and sunlight.

This page covers fibres and styles, underpad, where carpet belongs and where moisture rules it out, measuring and seams, stretching, stairs, removing old carpet and airing out a new one. The flooring contractors page compares carpet with other floors, and the carpet cleaning page covers upkeep.

Carpet fibres and styles: nylon, polyester, wool, olefin, cut pile, loop and Berber

  • Nylon: springs back well after being walked on and resists abrasion, which makes it a common choice for hallways, family rooms and stairs.
  • Polyester: soft, with rich colour and good resistance to many water-based stains, but it flattens more readily than nylon in heavy traffic.
  • Wool: a natural fibre that is resilient and hides soil well; it usually costs more and needs cleaning methods and products suited to wool.
  • Olefin (polypropylene): shrugs off moisture and fading and often appears in Berber and basement carpet, but it crushes in traffic and tends to hold oily soil.
  • Cut pile: the yarn tips are cut, giving plush, textured and frieze styles; textured and frieze hide footprints and vacuum marks better than smooth plush.
  • Loop pile: uncut loops, level or multi-level, that wear well and resist crushing, though a pet's claws or a dragged object can snag and pull a loop.
  • Berber: a chunky loop carpet, often flecked, that is tough in traffic; like other loops, it's a poor match for cats or dogs that dig at the floor.

Carpet underpad: what it does and how to choose it

The underpad does more than add cushioning. It absorbs the impact of each step so the carpet's backing and fibres wear more slowly, adds warmth, dampens sound and gives the stretched carpet a stable layer to lie on. Common types include bonded foam made from recycled urethane, prime foam, rubber and denser fibre pads.

Thicker and softer isn't automatically better. A pad that is too plush lets the carpet flex with every step, which strains the seams and backing and can lead to ripples, and loop and Berber carpets usually call for a thinner, firmer pad. Carpet makers often specify the pad their warranty requires, so choose the two together, and ask about a pad with a spill-resistant film if you have pets or young children.

Where carpet works best, and why basement carpet needs caution

Bedrooms, family rooms, home offices and upstairs hallways are carpet's natural territory: rooms where you walk barefoot, sit on the floor or want quiet, and where water is rare. Kitchens, bathrooms, entrances and laundry rooms are poor choices, since water, grit and salty slush end up in the pad.

Basements are the hard case. A concrete slab can stay cool and damp, and a single flood from a failed sump pump or a sewer backup can soak carpet and pad beyond saving. Health Canada's guide on moisture and mould suggests considering removing carpet from basement floors, and says mouldy carpet and underpad should be cut out and thrown away. If you still want carpet downstairs, solve any dampness first, favour a synthetic fibre and run a dehumidifier in humid weather; otherwise, an area rug over vinyl or tile is easier to live with.

Carpet installation process: measuring, seams, tack strips and power stretching

Carpet comes off rolls of fixed width, so the installer measures each room and draws a seam plan before ordering. The plan keeps the pile running the same way in every piece, allows extra for matching patterns and keeps seams out of doorways and main walking paths; seams also show less when they run toward the main window rather than across the light. Ask to see it, since it explains the quantity ordered.

On installation day, tack strips, thin wooden strips set with angled pins, are fastened around the room a small distance from the wall, nailed into wood or secured to concrete. The pad is laid inside them, and pieces are joined with heat-activated seam tape so the backing bonds and the seam blends into the pile. The carpet is then stretched tight with a power stretcher braced from wall to wall, hooked onto the strips and tucked into the gap at the baseboard.

Stretching is what keeps carpet flat. A knee kicker alone can't pull a room-sized carpet tight enough, and a loose carpet soon ripples, wears along the ridges and becomes a tripping hazard; many carpet makers call for power stretching in their instructions. Doorways get a transition strip to the neighbouring floor, and doors may need trimming if the new carpet and pad sit higher than the old ones.

Carpet on stairs: waterfall vs wrapped installation, full width vs runner

  • Waterfall: the carpet flows over the nosing and drops straight to the next tread, which is quicker to install but leaves a gap under the nosing and can feel less secure underfoot.
  • Wrapped, also called cap-and-band: the carpet is shaped tightly around and under each nosing, following the stair's profile; it takes more time and skill and suits dense, low carpet best.
  • Full width or runner: stair carpet can cover the whole tread, or a runner can leave wood showing on each side, which requires finished treads and a bound edge on the carpet.
  • Grip and safety: a dense, low pile gives firmer footing on the stair edge than a deep plush, and every tread needs pad cut to fit and carpet stretched tight so nothing shifts.
  • Details: the pile should run down the stairs, and railings, open sides, curved steps and landings take extra cutting and time, so point them out when asking for quotes.

Replacing old carpet: removal, the subfloor and asbestos in older homes

Replacing carpet means lifting the old carpet and pad, pulling the tack strips and staples, and checking the subfloor before anything new goes down. It's the moment to screw down squeaky panels, replace any section softened by an old leak and seal pet urine that has soaked into the wood, since the odour can come back through new carpet. Ask whether removal, disposal and moving furniture are part of the quote.

In older homes, old carpet sometimes hides an earlier floor. According to Health Canada, asbestos turns up in building materials from before 1990, floor tiles among them, and the Quebec government names vinyl tiles, linoleum and adhesive coatings among floor coverings that may contain it. If sheet vinyl, tiles or black glue appear under the carpet in a house of that age, stop: don't scrape, sand or tear anything out, and have a sample tested. If it's positive, the old floor can sometimes stay undisturbed under the new covering, but removing it is work for a qualified asbestos abatement contractor.

Airing out new carpet: VOCs, adhesives and the first weeks of care

New carpet, pad and any adhesive used on stairs or seams can give off a smell for a while. Health Canada notes that some volatile organic compounds (VOCs) can cause headaches, dizziness and eye, nose and throat irritation, lists glues and adhesives among products to use with extra ventilation, and advises choosing low-emission products when possible. Ask the installer about lower-emission carpet, pad and adhesive, and air the rooms well while the smell lasts; in winter, run the bathroom fans, range hood or ventilation system if opening windows isn't practical.

Loose fibres shedding from new cut-pile carpet are normal and fade with regular vacuuming. A tuft standing above the rest should be snipped level with scissors, never pulled, and a snagged loop is trimmed the same way. Keep the maker's care guide and the installation invoice for the warranty.

Carpet Installation: frequently asked questions

Can new carpet be installed over old carpet?

No. Old carpet and pad make a soft, uneven base that lets the new carpet shift and wear quickly, and the tack strips can't grip properly. The old carpet, pad and strips come up first.

What is the best carpet for stairs?

A dense, low, resilient carpet, often nylon, on a firm pad. It holds its shape over the nosings, grips better underfoot and hides wear in the busiest spot in the house. Tight loops also wear well, but avoid them if pets scratch at the steps.

Why is my carpet rippling?

Usually because it wasn't power-stretched, the pad is too soft or thick for the carpet, or heavy furniture dragged across it loosened it. An installer can restretch it; ripples left in place tend to wear into permanent lines.

Can carpet go over a heated floor?

Only if the heating system's maker allows it. Thick carpet and pad insulate the floor and hold heat in, so choose a thin, dense pad and a carpet that meet both makers' instructions for use over radiant heat.

Sources

  1. Guide to addressing moisture and mould indoors — Health Canada
  2. Volatile organic compounds — Health Canada
  3. Asbestos and your health — Health Canada
  4. Preventing health problems associated with asbestos — Gouvernement du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of carpet installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare carpet installers before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask carpet installers before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Carpet installation permits and local rules

Some carpet installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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