Concrete Patios
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A concrete patio is a single poured slab rather than a surface built from units, and that one difference shapes everything about it. There are no joints for weeds and ants to colonise, nothing to sink individually, and no pointing to wash out, which is why concrete lasts well in a wet climate. In exchange you get a surface that has to be finished correctly on the day it is laid, that cannot be lifted and relaid a slab at a time, and that sheds essentially all the rain that falls on it.
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British gardens use concrete patios in several forms. A brushed or tamped finish is the plain, practical version. Exposed aggregate washes the surface back to reveal the stone. Imprinted or pattern imprinted concrete, which is coloured and stamped while still plastic and then sealed, is the most commonly sold decorative version and the one with the most demanding maintenance. Polished or ground finishes appear mainly on covered terraces and in contemporary gardens.
The regulatory question that belongs to this page is drainage. A large area of new impermeable surface changes how a plot handles rain, and in Wales that has been a matter of statutory approval since 2019, with a clear area threshold. In England the equivalent statutory regime was legislated for but never brought into force, so the controls come through planning policy and the local authority instead. Getting that right at design stage is far cheaper than discovering it once the concrete is down.
Sustainable drainage approval: in force in Wales, not in England
Schedule 3 to the Flood and Water Management Act 2010 creates a drainage approval regime with a striking effect on hard landscaping. Its central requirement is that construction work which has drainage implications may not be commenced unless a drainage system for the work has been approved by the approving body, which in practice is the SuDS Approving Body within the local authority. Construction work is defined broadly, covering anything done by way of, in connection with or in preparation for the creation of a building or other structure, and work has drainage implications if it will affect the ability of land to absorb rainwater.
The schedule has been commenced in Wales and not in England. The commencement information on legislation.gov.uk records the Welsh commencement, with the regime fully applying from 7 January 2019, and shows no corresponding commencement for England. The Welsh threshold is set by article 6 of the Sustainable Drainage (Approval and Adoption) (Wales) Order 2018, which came into force on the same date: the requirement for approval does not apply where the area of land covered by the construction work is less than 100 square metres, whether the work is a single dwelling house or any other type of construction, and the article applies whether or not planning permission is required for the work.
For a homeowner in Wales that produces a usable rule of thumb. A new hard surface of 100 square metres or more is caught and needs approval from the SuDS Approving Body before work starts, and that is separate from any planning question. Below that area the statutory approval does not bite, though the drainage still has to work. In England, Scotland and Northern Ireland there is no equivalent domestic approval body for a patio, and the right questions are the local planning authority's requirements and where the water will actually go, which is a design matter rather than a consent one.
Laying a concrete patio: the day that cannot be repeated
The preparation is conventional and the pour is not. The area is excavated to formation, soft ground is dug out and replaced, a sub base is laid and compacted in layers, and the levels are set so that the finished surface falls away from the house at a consistent gradient. Formwork is set to those levels, a membrane and any reinforcement are placed, and the drainage that the patio discharges to is installed before anything is poured, because retrofitting a channel into a finished slab means cutting it.
On the day, the concrete is placed, compacted and struck off to the formwork, then left until the bleed water has gone before being finished. Everything decorative happens inside that window: brushing, tamping, washing back to expose the aggregate, or applying release agent and stamping a pattern. There is no second attempt. A crew that has to work an area larger than it can finish before the concrete stiffens will produce a surface that changes texture across the patio, which is why the bay layout and the number of people on site are legitimate questions to ask beforehand.
After finishing come the two stages homeowners rarely hear about. Joints are cut or formed on a planned grid, with isolation joints where the slab meets the house, a manhole or a wall, so the slab cracks where it was told to. Then it is cured and protected, and kept off for the period the contractor specifies. Sealing, where the finish requires it, happens later, once the surface is dry and clean, and on an imprinted patio the sealer is a functional part of the finish rather than an optional extra.
Concrete patio finishes and what each is like to live with
- Brushed or broom finish: a plain textured surface, the cheapest and the most forgiving, with good grip and no sealer to maintain.
- Tamped finish: a ridged surface made by tamping the wet concrete, very grippy underfoot and traditionally used where slip resistance mattered most.
- Exposed aggregate: the surface washed or brushed back to show the stone in the mix, hard wearing and good in the wet, though it is harder to sweep clean.
- Pattern imprinted concrete: coloured and stamped while plastic, then sealed, which gives the most decorative result and the most demanding upkeep.
- Power floated or polished: smooth and contemporary, best kept for covered or sheltered areas because a smooth external slab gets slippery once algae takes hold.
- Coloured concrete, either mixed through or dusted on the surface: durable in the mass, and vulnerable to patchiness where a surface application is worked unevenly.
- A resin or micro-topping over existing concrete: a way of re-facing a sound old slab without breaking it out, and only as good as the slab beneath it.
Where concrete patios go wrong in a British garden
- Ponding after rain, which means the falls were not set correctly and is the fault that is hardest to put right afterwards.
- Water running back towards the house, which is a damp problem in the making rather than an inconvenience.
- Cracking in random lines, usually because the joint grid was too sparse or the joints were cut too late.
- A crack running out from the corner of a step, a drain cover or a wall, where an isolation joint was needed and not provided.
- Colour that reads unevenly across the slab, generally because a surface-applied colour was worked differently in different bays.
- A slippery surface in shade, since algae and moss take hold readily on any smooth external concrete in a damp climate.
- Surface scaling after a hard winter on a slab that was not air entrained or was still young when it was first salted.
- A sealed imprinted patio that has gone cloudy or is peeling, which is a sealer failure rather than a concrete failure and needs stripping rather than recoating.
How long a concrete patio lasts, and what shortens it
A properly built concrete patio is one of the longest-lived garden surfaces available in Britain, because it has no joints to erode, no units to sink and nothing to be lifted by frost individually. Its life is governed by three things: the base beneath it, the mix and finish at the surface, and whether water is allowed to sit on it or run under it. Get those right and the slab is likely to outlast several sets of garden furniture; get any of them wrong and the failures start in the first few winters rather than the second decade.
The commonest life-shortener is water rather than wear. A slab that ponds holds water on the surface through freezing weather and deteriorates in that patch first; a slab whose base is being washed out by a leaking gully or a downpipe discharging at the surface loses its support and cracks; and a slab sitting against a wall without an isolation joint transmits every bit of movement into that wall. None of these has anything to do with how much you walk on the patio.
The decorative finishes have their own clock. An imprinted patio depends on its sealer, which is a consumable: it wears, it weathers and it has to be stripped back and reapplied at intervals the manufacturer states, and a patio whose sealer has been allowed to fail completely looks far worse than a plain brushed slab ever will. Ask at quotation stage what the maintenance cycle is, who does it and what it involves, because this is the point that decides whether a decorative patio still looks good in ten years.
Keeping a concrete patio safe and looking right
- Sweep leaves and organic debris off regularly, because it is decaying organic matter that feeds the algae which makes concrete slippery.
- Wash the surface down annually with water and an appropriate cleaner, and use a pressure washer carefully, since a close, high pressure lance can erode a concrete surface and destroy a sealer.
- Keep the drainage outlets and channels the patio discharges into clear, and check them after autumn leaf fall.
- Reseal an imprinted or coloured patio on the manufacturer's cycle, and strip a failed sealer rather than coating over it.
- Re-seal open movement joints so that water does not get into the base through them.
- Treat shaded areas for algae before winter, since the slip risk is highest exactly when the garden is least used and least watched.
- Keep planters and furniture feet from standing permanently in one spot on a sealed surface, where they trap moisture and mark it.
- Deal with a settled or cracked area promptly if it creates a step or a lip, since a trip hazard on a patio is the most likely way this surface hurts somebody.
What drives a concrete patio quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
Most of the money in a concrete patio is spent before the concrete arrives. The factors that change a quotation are how much excavation is needed and how the spoil gets out of a back garden, the depth of sub base the ground requires, whether reinforcement is specified, how the concrete reaches the site given that many back gardens cannot take a ready-mixed lorry and need a pump or barrow runs, the finish you have chosen and how labour-intensive it is to achieve, and the drainage the patio discharges into. Steps, edges, kerbs, a threshold detail at the back door and the number of separate bays all add work that has nothing to do with the square metres.
Use LokalMatch to put those quotations next to each other. You describe the patio once with your postcode, including its size, the access to the garden, the finish you want and where you think the water should go, and patio and groundwork contractors serving your area make contact. There is no charge to a homeowner for asking, because the trades pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch neither builds patios nor sets prices, and it does not vet, rank or recommend the contractors who reply, so checking the falls, the drainage, the joint layout and the maintenance commitment is yours to do.
Concrete Patios: frequently asked questions
Do I need approval to lay a large patio in Wales?
Very possibly. Schedule 3 to the Flood and Water Management Act 2010 is in force in Wales, with the regime applying from 7 January 2019, and it provides that construction work which has drainage implications may not be commenced unless a drainage system for the work has been approved by the approving body. Article 6 of the Sustainable Drainage (Approval and Adoption) (Wales) Order 2018 excepts work where the area of land covered is less than 100 square metres, and states that it applies whether or not planning permission is required. So a hard surface of 100 square metres or more in Wales needs SuDS Approving Body approval before work starts.
Does the same apply in England?
No. The commencement information for Schedule 3 on legislation.gov.uk records commencement for Wales and shows no corresponding commencement for England, so there is no equivalent statutory approving body for a domestic patio in England. Surface water is instead handled through planning policy and the local planning authority, and through the ordinary requirement that your drainage actually works. That makes the design question the important one: where does the water from the new slab go, and is that within your own ground rather than onto a neighbour's land or the street.
Is a concrete patio slippery?
It depends almost entirely on the finish and the shade. A brushed, tamped or exposed aggregate surface has texture built into it and performs well when wet. A power floated or polished slab is smooth by design and gets genuinely slippery once algae establishes on it, which happens quickly in a damp, shaded British garden. If a patio is north facing or under trees, choose a textured finish, and keep organic debris swept off whatever the finish, because the growth feeds on it.
How much fall should a patio have?
Enough that water leaves the surface visibly and goes somewhere specific, and always away from the house. What matters more than any single figure is that the fall is consistent, that it is set out with a level rather than by eye, and that the water arrives somewhere designed to take it: a channel drain, a gully, or a permeable border within your own ground. Ask for the intended fall and the discharge point to be written on the quotation, because ponding is the fault that is most expensive to put right after the event.
Is imprinted concrete worth it?
It is the most decorative concrete finish available and the one with the most upkeep, so the honest answer depends on whether you will do the maintenance. The colour and pattern are created in the wet concrete and protected by a sealer, and that sealer is a consumable which wears, weathers and must be stripped and reapplied at intervals. Well maintained, it stays striking for years. Neglected, it goes cloudy or patchy and looks considerably worse than a plain brushed slab. Ask what resealing involves and how often before you choose it.
Can a new concrete patio be laid over my old one?
Sometimes, but only after the old one has been assessed rather than assumed. A sound, well drained slab with no movement can take an overlay or a resin topping, and that saves a great deal of breaking out. A slab that rocks, that has cracked because the ground beneath moved, that ponds, or that sits at a level which would put the new surface too close to the house is not a base to build on, and covering it simply passes the problem up to the new surface. Have the existing slab sounded and the falls checked first.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of concrete patio
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare concrete contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for concrete patio
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Concrete patio permits and local rules
Some concrete patio work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about concrete patio
- ✦
Concrete Contractors guide
Concrete work around a British home means driveways, paths, patios, garage and shed bases, steps, ground floor slabs and foundations.
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Repair guide
Concrete repair covers a wide spread of jobs that share one question: is the surface broken, or is something behind the surface breaking it.
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Levelling guide
Concrete levelling in a British home usually means one of two quite different jobs. Indoors it means getting a solid ground floor flat and dry enough for a floor covering to be laid on it, whether by grinding high…
Read guide
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