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Concrete Levelling

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Concrete levelling in a British home usually means one of two quite different jobs. Indoors it means getting a solid ground floor flat and dry enough for a floor covering to be laid on it, whether by grinding high spots, applying a levelling compound, laying a new screed or breaking out and recasting the slab. Outdoors it means correcting a slab, path or garage floor that has settled, tipped or ponded, either by lifting it or by taking it up and relaying it.

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The reason the indoor version comes up so often is the housing stock. A great many British houses built from the middle of the twentieth century onwards have a solid ground floor: a hardcore bed, a concrete slab, a damp proof membrane and usually a screed over the top. Sixty years of hearths being removed, walls being taken down, pipes being chased in and kitchens being refitted leave that floor a patchwork of levels, and modern floor coverings are far less tolerant of it than the lino and carpet that went before.

Levelling is therefore rarely just levelling. Before anything is poured, somebody has to establish whether the floor is dry, whether the membrane is intact, whether the slab is sound, and how much height is available before doors, thresholds and the damp proof course in the walls run out. Those questions decide whether the answer is a few millimetres of compound or a floor that has to come out.

The ways a floor or slab is actually levelled

  • Grinding or scabbling high spots: the first move where the floor is broadly right and only a few areas stand proud.
  • Self-smoothing levelling compound: a thin flowing layer that corrects small deviations under a floor covering, applied over a primed and sound base.
  • A new sand and cement or flowing screed: used where the correction is tens of millimetres rather than a few, and where the build-up height allows it.
  • Breaking out and recasting the slab: the answer where the concrete itself is failing, where the floor is damp, or where insulation has to be introduced.
  • Overboarding a floor: a dry alternative used where moisture, time or height rules out a wet trade.
  • Lifting an external slab by injection: sometimes offered where a path, garage floor or drive slab has settled but is otherwise intact.
  • Taking up and relaying an external slab: slower but the only option where the concrete has broken, the base has washed out or the falls were wrong from the start.

What a solid ground floor in England is supposed to be

Approved Document C, the 2004 edition incorporating the 2010 and 2013 amendments and marked for use in England, is the guidance a new or reinstated ground floor is judged against. It states that floors next to the ground should resist the passage of ground moisture to the upper surface of the floor, should not be damaged by moisture from the ground, should not be damaged by groundwater, and should resist the passage of ground gases. Wales publishes its own Part C guidance, Scotland works to its building standards handbooks and Northern Ireland to its own technical booklets, so check your own country's document rather than assuming the England version applies.

The technical solution it sets out is worth knowing, because it tells you what should be under your feet. A concrete ground supported floor may be built with a well compacted hardcore bed no greater than 600mm deep of clean broken brick or similar inert material, free from water-soluble sulphates in quantities that could damage the concrete; concrete at least 100mm thick, thicker if the structural design requires, to mix ST2 in BS 8500, or to mix ST4 where there is embedded reinforcement; and a damp proof membrane above or below the concrete, continuous with the damp proof courses in the walls. Where the ground could contain water-soluble sulphates, the membrane should go at the base of the slab.

Two practical consequences follow for a levelling job. First, if the floor has to come out, the replacement is a designed build-up rather than a slab poured to whatever thickness fits, and the membrane has to be lapped and sealed into the wall damp proof course rather than stopped at the skirting line. Second, if the existing floor is damp, adding an impermeable covering over a levelling compound traps the moisture rather than solving it, which is why a fitter who tests the base before quoting is worth more than one who does not.

Radon and ground gas when a solid floor is opened up

Breaking out a ground floor is one of the few domestic jobs that opens a direct path between the subsoil and the inside of the house, which is why Approved Document C treats ground gas as a floor issue. It describes radon as a naturally occurring radioactive, colourless and odourless gas formed by radioactive decay wherever uranium and radium are found, notes that it moves through the subsoil and into buildings, that some parts of the country, notably the West Country, have higher levels than elsewhere, and that exposure to high levels for long periods increases the risk of developing lung cancer.

The document says that to reduce that risk all new buildings, extensions and conversions built in areas where there may be elevated radon emissions may need to incorporate precautions, and it points to BRE Report BR 211 for whether an area is susceptible and what protective measures are appropriate. It sets out the thresholds BR 211 works to: basic radon protective measures in areas where 3 to 10 per cent of homes, and full protective measures where more than 10 per cent of homes, are predicted to have radon at or above the Radon Action Level of 200 becquerels per cubic metre. The maps in BR 211 are based on the indicative atlas published by the health agency and the British Geological Survey.

For a homeowner the point is narrow and useful. If you are having a solid floor taken out and recast, and the property is in an area flagged for radon, that is the moment to ask whether a gas resistant barrier is being incorporated, since the same membrane can serve as the damp proof membrane and the cost of including it while the floor is open is nothing like the cost of retrofitting it afterwards.

Why British floors and slabs go out of level in the first place

  • Alterations: hearths removed, chimney breasts taken out, walls repositioned and pipe chases filled leave patches at different heights and different strengths.
  • A failed or missing damp proof membrane, common in floors laid before membranes were routine, which shows as damp patches, lifting coverings and a floor that never dries.
  • Hardcore that was never properly compacted, or was too deep, settling under the slab and taking the concrete down with it in one area.
  • Water getting under an external slab from a broken gully, a downpipe discharging at the surface or a garden built up against the house, washing fines out of the base.
  • Tree roots and seasonal ground movement lifting or dropping the edge of an external slab, particularly on shrinkable clay.
  • A screed that was laid too thin, too dry or over a dusty base, which debonds and sounds hollow underfoot long before it cracks.
  • Falls that were built in the wrong direction outdoors, so the slab sheds water towards a wall or a threshold instead of away from it.

Levelling compound, new screed or new floor: choosing between them

Levelling compound is the right answer for small deviations over a sound, dry, clean base. It is thin, it goes off quickly, and it gives a floor covering the flat surface its manufacturer asks for. What it cannot do is add strength, bridge a moving crack, or cure a damp floor, and spread thickly to make up a large step it will craze and break up. If a contractor proposes to make up thirty or forty millimetres with a compound designed for a few, that is a specification question worth pressing.

A screed is the answer where there is real depth to make up and the height is available. It is heavier work, it takes far longer to be ready for a covering, and the drying time depends on thickness, mix, temperature and ventilation rather than on a number of days anyone can promise in advance. The right commitment from a contractor is that the screed will be tested before a covering is laid, and that the result will be recorded.

Breaking out and recasting is the answer when the problem is the floor rather than its surface: a damp slab with no working membrane, a slab that has settled because the ground beneath it has, or a floor that needs insulation to be worth heating. It is the most disruptive option and the only one that lets you put the build-up right, including the membrane, any gas barrier and the insulation, and get the level correct in a single operation rather than layering corrections on top of a floor that was never sound.

How a levelling job should run from survey to covering

It starts with measurement rather than material. A laser or a long straight edge establishes where the high and low points are and how much total deviation there is; the floor is tapped and probed for hollow or friable areas; the moisture condition of the base is tested rather than judged by eye; and the available height is checked against door bottoms, thresholds, stair bottoms and the level of the damp proof course in the surrounding walls. That last check is the one that gets skipped, and raising an internal floor without thinking about it is how a perfectly good wall starts showing damp.

Preparation then does most of the work. Old adhesive, paint, laitance and dust are removed mechanically rather than swept, since almost every failure of a levelling compound traces back to a base that was not properly prepared. Cracks and hollow areas are cut out and made good, movement joints in the existing slab are identified so they can be carried through rather than buried, and the base is primed as the product requires.

Application and drying complete it. The compound or screed is mixed to the stated water content, placed and worked in the thickness it is designed for, and protected from draughts, direct heat and traffic while it sets. The floor is then allowed to dry, tested, and only then covered. Where underfloor heating is present, the commissioning sequence matters and should be written into the quotation rather than agreed on the day.

What drives a concrete levelling quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Depth and preparation drive this price far more than floor area does. The things that move a quotation are how much deviation there is between the highest and lowest points, what has to be ground off or cut out before anything is laid, whether the base needs priming or a bonded system, the moisture condition of the slab and whether a surface membrane is needed, whether the build-up can be accommodated under existing doors and thresholds, and how the material gets into the room, since pumped flowing screed and hand-mixed bags are different operations. Outdoors, access for plant, the depth of the base and where the water is supposed to go matter most.

This is a job worth quoting more than once, and LokalMatch makes that quick. You set out the floor once with your postcode, the room sizes, what is on the floor now, what is going on it and what you know about damp or movement, and flooring and concrete contractors covering your area respond to you directly. Homeowners are not charged; the trades pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not lay screed, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend the contractors who answer, so the moisture testing, the specification and the guarantee remain for you to check.

Concrete Levelling: frequently asked questions

How level does a floor need to be before flooring goes down?

Flat enough for the specific covering, which is a manufacturer's tolerance rather than a legal one, and flatness and level are not the same thing. A click-fitted floating floor flexes over hollows and the joints work loose; a thin vinyl telegraphs every ridge; tiles crack over a base that moves. The useful question to ask a fitter is what deviation they have measured over a two metre straight edge and what the flooring manufacturer allows, because that comparison, rather than an opinion about the floor looking fine, is what decides whether levelling is needed.

What should be underneath a solid concrete ground floor?

Approved Document C, the 2004 edition incorporating the 2010 and 2013 amendments for use in England, describes a ground supported floor as a well compacted hardcore bed no greater than 600mm deep of clean, inert material free from damaging water-soluble sulphates, concrete at least 100mm thick to mix ST2 in BS 8500 or ST4 where there is embedded reinforcement, and a damp proof membrane above or below the concrete that is continuous with the damp proof courses in the walls. Where the ground could contain sulphates, the membrane goes at the base of the slab.

Can levelling compound fix a damp floor?

No. It corrects a profile; it does not stop moisture. If the slab is passing moisture upwards, laying compound and then an impermeable covering traps it, and the result is a failed adhesive bond, a lifting floor or damp appearing at the edges of the room. The right sequence is to establish where the moisture is coming from, deal with it or install a suitable surface damp proof membrane, and level afterwards. A contractor who tests the base and records the reading before quoting is doing the job properly.

Is lifting a sunken outdoor slab better than replacing it?

It depends entirely on why it sank and what condition the concrete is in. Lifting can be sensible where a sound, uncracked slab has settled evenly because the ground beneath compacted. It is the wrong answer where the slab is broken up, where water is still washing material out from under it, or where the original falls sent water in the wrong direction, because none of those problems are fixed by raising the concrete. Ask what the contractor believes caused the settlement and what happens to the water afterwards.

Do I need to think about radon when a floor is being replaced?

In some parts of the country, yes, and while the floor is open is the only sensible moment. Approved Document C describes radon as a naturally occurring radioactive gas that moves through the subsoil into buildings, says higher levels occur in some areas, notably the West Country, and points to BRE Report BR 211 for whether protective measures are needed. It sets out basic measures where 3 to 10 per cent of homes and full measures where more than 10 per cent of homes are predicted to be at or above the Radon Action Level of 200 becquerels per cubic metre, and notes a gas resistant barrier can also work as the damp proof membrane.

How long before I can lay flooring on a new screed?

Until it passes a moisture test, not until a set number of days has gone by. Drying depends on the thickness, the mix, the temperature and how well the room is ventilated, and a thick screed in a cold, closed-up house in winter takes far longer than a thin one in a warm, airy one. The answer you want from a contractor is that they will test and record the result before anything is laid, and that they will either wait or install a suitable surface membrane. Anyone who quotes a fixed number of days without testing is guessing.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: Approved Document C, site preparation and resistance to contaminants and moisture
  2. Approved Document C, 2004 edition incorporating 2010 and 2013 amendments: floors and radon (PDF)
  3. Scottish Government: building standards technical handbook, domestic, April 2026

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of concrete levelling

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and thickness of the area
  • Removal of the old surface
  • Excavation and base preparation
  • Finish, colour or pattern
  • Access for equipment and trucks
  • Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges

How to compare concrete contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
  • Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
  • Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
  • Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.

Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire

  • How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
  • Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
  • How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
  • What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?

When to call a pro for concrete levelling

  • Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
  • Water pooling against the foundation after rain
  • Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways

Concrete levelling permits and local rules

Some concrete levelling work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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