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Concrete work around a British home means driveways, paths, patios, garage and shed bases, steps, ground floor slabs and foundations. Much of it is not notifiable building work, which is why the rule that catches people out is a planning one. GOV.UK's guidance records that from 1 October 2008 the government changed the General Permitted Development Order, making the hard surfacing of more than five square metres of domestic front gardens permitted development only where the surface in question is rendered permeable.
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That single change is why so much modern British driveway work is permeable paving, resin-bound surfacing or concrete draining to a soakaway or a rain garden rather than a plain slab falling towards the pavement. The Planning Portal puts it plainly: you will not need planning permission if a new or replacement driveway of any size uses permeable or porous surfacing which allows water to drain through, while permission will be needed for laying traditional impermeable driveways of more than five square metres that do not provide for the water to run to a permeable area.
Where concrete does meet the Building Regulations is underneath the house. In England, Approved Document C covers the condition of the ground, treatment of unsuitable material, subsoil drainage and resistance to moisture in floors, walls and roofs, and Approved Document A covers loadings and the construction of foundations, walls, floors, roofs and chimneys.
Driveways, front gardens and the five square metre rule
The five square metre threshold is the number worth remembering. GOV.UK's guidance on permeable surfacing of front gardens explains that the change from 1 October 2008 made hard surfacing of more than five square metres of a domestic front garden permitted development only where the surface is rendered permeable, and sets out the options for achieving permeability and meeting that condition, including permeable surfaces, soakaways and rain gardens that control and reduce rainfall running into the drains.
The Planning Portal adds the detail that these rules apply to houses rather than flats or maisonettes, and cover front gardens specifically. Rear patios, side paths and garden slabs are governed by other considerations, and a listed building or a conservation area can impose its own constraints on materials and appearance regardless of size.
Crossing the pavement is a separate approval with its own timetable. A dropped kerb is a lowered sloping access point in the pavement and is required if you wish to drive over a pavement onto your property, and it is illegal to do so without one; you apply to the local authority for it. Having the drive laid and then being refused the crossover is a familiar and entirely avoidable sequence of events.
Where the water goes: falls, soakaways and permeable build-ups
Falls are the first thing to agree and the easiest to get wrong. A surface next to the house should shed water away from the walls and clear of any air bricks, and a new level that buries the damp-proof course creates a damp problem rather than solving a paving one. Ask to see the intended levels marked out before anything is poured.
Where the water goes next is the permeability question. A permeable build-up lets water through the surface into a sub-base designed to hold and release it; an impermeable slab needs the water routed deliberately to a soakaway, a rain garden, a border or a lawn. The point of the 2008 change was to stop domestic front gardens adding to surface water run-off, so a contractor should be able to say which approach your drive uses and where the water ends up.
Check the flood picture before choosing between them. In England you can check current flood warnings and alerts along with river, sea, groundwater and rainfall levels, though surface water or flash flooding is dealt with by your local council rather than that service; Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland each run their own.
What concrete contractors do around a British home
- Driveways and hardstandings, where the permeability rules and the dropped kerb application usually decide the specification before anyone talks about finishes.
- Paths, patios and garden steps, where slip resistance in a wet climate matters more than it does in drier markets.
- Bases for garages, sheds, greenhouses, garden rooms and hot tubs, where the load and the ground conditions set the thickness and the reinforcement.
- Ground floor slabs inside the house, where resistance to moisture and the damp-proof membrane fall under Approved Document C and the work is likely to be notifiable.
- Foundations and footings for extensions, porches and garden walls, which are structural work under Approved Document A rather than surfacing.
- Repairs and alterations: crack repair, resurfacing, breaking out and removal of an old slab, and cutting openings for drainage or services.
Ready-mixed or site-mixed, reinforcement, joints and finishes
- Ready-mixed concrete delivered by truck suits anything of size; access down a narrow terrace or a long garden decides whether a chute reaches, a pump is needed, or the mix is made on site.
- Reinforcement can be steel mesh, reinforcing bar or fibres added to the mix, and which one is used should appear on the quotation rather than being left to the day.
- Movement joints are deliberate, planned cracks. A slab without them cracks anyway, just where it chooses.
- Curing matters more than drying: concrete gains strength over time, and protecting a fresh pour from rain, frost and early traffic is part of the job, not an optional extra.
- Finishes include brushed or tamped for grip, power-floated for a smooth internal slab, and exposed aggregate or pattern imprinting outside.
- The alternatives worth pricing alongside concrete are block paving, permeable block paving, resin-bound surfacing and gravel, several of which answer the front garden permeability condition without further design work.
Cracking, settlement, ponding and surface damage
Fine surface cracking that appears within days is usually shrinkage as the concrete cures, and it is often cosmetic. Cracks that open over months, step at an edge, or run through the full thickness of a slab point at the ground underneath rather than the mix on top, and that is a different conversation with a different remedy.
Settlement almost always traces back to the sub-base: material that was too thin, not compacted in layers, or laid over soft spots and buried tree roots. Ponding water after rain points the same way, or to falls that were never set out properly. Both are far cheaper to prevent at excavation stage than to correct afterwards.
Trees and ground conditions deserve a mention before work starts. Where the ground is shrinkable clay and there are mature trees close by, the advice of an engineer before laying a slab or founding a garden wall is worth having, since both the ground beneath and the surface above can move seasonally.
Signs a slab, drive or path needs attention
- Puddles that sit on the surface for hours after the rain has stopped, or water running towards the house instead of away from it.
- A step or lip forming where two sections of a slab meet, or between the drive and the garage threshold.
- Cracks that have widened, lengthened or begun to move relative to each other since you last looked.
- Surface scaling or a gritty, crumbling texture underfoot, particularly after a hard winter or where de-icing salt has been used.
- Block paving that has rutted under the wheel tracks, or joints emptied of sand and filled with weeds and moss.
- Water discharging from a drive straight onto the pavement or into the road rather than to a permeable area.
- Damp appearing inside the ground floor at the same time as an external level was raised.
Looking after concrete and paving
- Keep drainage channels, gullies and soakaway inspection points clear, since a blocked outlet defeats an otherwise sound design.
- Do not seal a surface that was specified to be permeable, because the coating that makes it look smart can be the thing that makes it need planning permission.
- Use a pressure washer carefully on block paving and jointed surfaces; stripping the jointing sand out is easy and refilling it is a job in itself.
- Deal with moss and algae on shaded paths and steps before they become a slip hazard through a wet British winter.
- Re-sand and re-point joints as they empty rather than waiting for blocks to rock underfoot.
- Keep soil, mulch and new turf below the damp-proof course when landscaping up to a wall.
Contracts, site safety and who carries the duties on a domestic job
On a domestic job the legal duties do not sit where most people assume. HSE explains that a domestic client under the Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2015 is any individual who has construction work carried out on their home, or the home of a family member, that is not done as part of any business, and that the client duties pass to others: to the contractor on a single contractor project, or to the principal contractor where more than one contractor is involved. A designer can take them on instead only under a written agreement.
That does not make site safety invisible to you. HSE warns that wet cement is highly alkaline and that a serious burn or ulcer can rapidly develop if it is trapped against the skin, that cement causes both irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, and that COSHH controls, waterproof gloves and boots, proper washing facilities and training are required. Cutting and drilling concrete releases respirable crystalline silica, which HSE treats as a real risk to the lungs rather than a nuisance, controlled under COSHH using its assess, control and review approach.
Get the scope written down before work starts: excavation depth, sub-base material and compaction, membrane, reinforcement, joint positions, falls, where the water is being sent, and how the old surface is removed and disposed of. Check the firm's insurance, and note that TrustMark, the government-endorsed quality scheme backed by the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero and the Department for Business and Trade, gives another way to check standards and a route to complain.
Concrete Contractors: frequently asked questions
Does a new concrete driveway have to be permeable?
In a front garden, effectively yes, unless you apply for permission or drain it properly. The Planning Portal states that no planning permission is needed if a new or replacement driveway of any size uses permeable or porous surfacing which allows water to drain through, and that permission will be needed for laying traditional impermeable driveways of more than five square metres that do not provide for the water to run to a permeable area. Directing the run-off to a soakaway, a border or a lawn is the usual alternative to a permeable surface.
Do I need a dropped kerb to use my new driveway?
Yes, if you will drive across the pavement to reach it. The Planning Portal describes a dropped kerb as a lowered sloping access point in the pavement, required if you wish to drive over a pavement onto your property, and states that it is illegal to do so without one. You apply to your local authority, and it is worth doing that before the drive is laid rather than afterwards, because the crossover is not guaranteed.
Does a new concrete floor inside the house need building regulations approval?
Very likely, and it is worth checking rather than assuming. GOV.UK's advice is that you could need approval, or to follow special rules, for works not listed on its page, so always research your particular project. In England, Approved Document C covers ground conditions, subsoil drainage and resistance to moisture in floors, which is what a damp-proof membrane under a slab is for, and Approved Document A covers the structural elements. Ask your council's building control department or a registered building control approver before the pour is booked.
How long before I can walk or drive on new concrete?
Concrete gains strength over time rather than simply drying out, and the safe point for foot traffic and for vehicles depends on the mix, the thickness, the reinforcement and the weather it is curing in. Ask your contractor for the figures that apply to the mix being used, keep vehicles off until they confirm it, and expect the wait to be longer in cold conditions. Loading a slab early can crack it in ways that only show up months later.
Why is my new drive holding water?
Either the falls were not set out to move water to a discharge point, or that discharge point is blocked or was never built. On a permeable build-up, ponding can also mean the surface or the sub-base has silted up. Start by checking gullies, channels and any soakaway inspection point, then look at where the water is trying to go. Standing water beside a wall is worth dealing with quickly, because it finds its way into the structure.
How does LokalMatch work for concrete work?
Set out the job once — the area, what is there now, and what you want instead — and concrete contractors working near your postcode get in touch. Contractors pay for the requests; there is no charge to homeowners for posting one. LokalMatch does not lay concrete, does not set prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so comparing specifications and checking insurance before you commit is still your part of the job.
Sources
- Planning Portal: Paving your front garden
- GOV.UK: Permeable surfacing of front gardens — guidance
- GOV.UK: Approved Document C — site preparation and resistance to moisture
- GOV.UK: Approved Document A — structural elements of a building
- GOV.UK: When you need building regulations approval
- HSE: Cement — construction health risks
- HSE: Construction dust
- HSE: CDM 2015 — domestic clients
- GOV.UK: Check for flooding in England
- TrustMark: government-endorsed quality scheme
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
What concrete contractors can help with
Common jobs homeowners hire concrete contractors for:
- Concrete RepairFix cracked, chipped or crumbling concrete.
- Concrete LevellingLift sunken slabs with mudjacking or foam injection.
- Concrete DrivewaysPour, replace and repair concrete driveways.
- Concrete PatiosPour plain, stamped or exposed aggregate concrete patios.
- Concrete WalkwaysPour and repair concrete walkways, paths and steps.
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What affects the cost of concrete
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare concrete contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for concrete
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Concrete permits and local rules
Some concrete work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about concrete
- ✦
Concrete Repair guide
Concrete repair covers a wide spread of jobs that share one question: is the surface broken, or is something behind the surface breaking it.
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Levelling guide
Concrete levelling in a British home usually means one of two quite different jobs. Indoors it means getting a solid ground floor flat and dry enough for a floor covering to be laid on it, whether by grinding high…
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Driveways guide
A concrete drive is an unusual choice in Britain and a sound one in the right circumstances. Most new domestic drives here are block paving, resin bound gravel or tarmac, so a homeowner asking for concrete is normally…
Read guide
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