Decking
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Decking is one of the few garden projects where the rules decide the design rather than the other way round. In England, decking is permitted development only within limits, and the first of those limits is height: the Planning Portal's conditions are that the decking is no more than 30cm above the ground, that together with other extensions and outbuildings the decking or platforms cover no more than 50 per cent of the garden area, and that none of it is on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. Go above that height and you are applying for planning permission, not building a deck at the weekend.
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The other limits are about where the house sits. On Article 2(3) designated land no decking or platform is permitted at either side of the house, and within the curtilage of a listed building no decking or platform is permitted at all. In National Parks, the Broads, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage Sites the area that may be covered more than 20 metres from the house is limited to 10 square metres.
Then there is the build itself: a frame that carries people and furniture in a wet climate, ground that drains, boards that stay usable when it rains, and guarding wherever there is a drop. The Planning Portal's position on that is short and useful: building regulations should be assumed to apply to every deck structure requiring planning permission.
Permitted development limits for decking in England, Scotland and Northern Ireland
The three nations set different heights, so the first question is which one you are in. England's permitted development conditions for decking are the 30cm height, the 50 per cent garden coverage shared with other extensions and outbuildings, and the bar on building forward of the principal elevation, with nothing permitted within the curtilage of a listed building.
Scotland has its own class. Under the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, Class 3D covers the erection, construction, maintenance, improvement or alteration of any deck or other raised platform within the curtilage of a dwellinghouse for any purpose incidental to the enjoyment of that dwellinghouse. The floor level must not exceed 0.5 metres in height, the combined height of the deck plus anything attached to it must not exceed 2.5 metres, and in a conservation area or within the curtilage of a listed building the footprint is capped at 4 square metres.
Northern Ireland is tighter still. In the Planning (General Permitted Development) Order (Northern Ireland) 2015, the class covering the erection, construction or alteration of a deck or other raised platform within the curtilage of a dwellinghouse is not available where any part of the deck would exceed 0.3 metres above ground level. Whichever nation you are in, permitted development is a default that a listing, a designation or an earlier extension can remove, so confirm with the local planning authority before ordering timber.
Ground-level decking or a raised platform: the decision that sets everything else
Almost every decision about a decking project follows from whether the finished surface stays under the permitted development height or goes above it. A low deck laid close to the ground avoids a planning application, needs no guarding, and is mostly an exercise in ground preparation, ventilation under the boards and keeping timber away from standing water. A raised platform is a small building project: planning permission, a structure designed for its loads, guarding, steps and, in many cases, a neighbour's view of your garden becoming part of the conversation.
Sloping gardens are where this bites. A deck that is level with the back door can be 30cm above ground at the house and well over a metre at the far end, and it is the height above ground that counts, not the height at the threshold. Options at that point include stepping the deck down in sections, cutting into the slope with a retaining edge, or accepting that you are making a planning application. A contractor who measures the fall across the garden before quoting is telling you which project you actually have.
How a decking project runs: levels, ground preparation and drainage
The order of work is unglamorous and decides how long the deck lasts. The ground is cleared and levelled, weed growth dealt with, and the site checked for where rainwater currently runs. Supports are set out, the frame is built with falls and joist spacing to suit the boards being used, and the surface goes down last. Ventilation under the deck matters more in a damp climate than the choice of board does: a frame that cannot dry out will fail from below while the top still looks new.
- Agree the finished deck height in writing, measured from ground level at the lowest point, because that is the figure the permitted development limit applies to.
- Keep the deck surface below the damp-proof course of the house, and do not let a new deck bridge it.
- Leave drainage runs, gullies and inspection chambers accessible rather than boarding over them.
- Check boundaries before setting out, and raise anything close to a neighbour's fence or wall early.
- Confirm joist centres against the board manufacturer's instructions, since composite and narrow timber boards often need closer support than a standard timber layout gives.
- Ask what happens to spoil and old paving: construction waste leaving your property is business waste for the contractor, who should be using a registered waste carrier.
- Agree the guarding and steps at the design stage if any part of the finished deck has a drop from it.
Decking boards and frame timber for a wet climate
- Pressure-treated softwood is the common choice for both frame and boards; cut ends need end-grain treatment or they become the first place rot starts.
- Hardwood decking is denser and longer-lived, but needs pilot holes, stainless fixings and a decision about whether you will oil it or let it silver.
- Composite boards remove the annual finishing job and resist splintering, but they expand and contract, so the manufacturer's gaps, clips and joist centres are not optional.
- Grooved and profiled boards were sold as anti-slip; in practice the grooves hold debris and grow algae, so texture is only part of the answer.
- Fixings should be corrosion-resistant and compatible with treated timber, because ordinary screws stain the boards and fail early.
- Joist tape or a capping over the top of frame timbers keeps water out of screw holes and is cheap insurance in a wet climate.
- A permeable base beneath the deck, rather than sheet plastic that holds water, keeps the underside drying between showers.
Guarding, structure and the building regulations side of a raised deck
Once a deck is raised, two requirements of Schedule 1 to the Building Regulations 2010 come into view. Requirement A1 is that the building is constructed so that the combined dead, imposed and wind loads are sustained and transmitted to the ground safely and without deflection or deformation that impairs stability. Requirement K2 is that stairs, ramps, floors and balconies and any roof to which people have access shall be provided with barriers where it is necessary to protect people in or about the building from falling.
The Planning Portal's advice is to assume the building regulations apply to every deck structure requiring planning permission, and to contact the local building control body if you are unsure whether what you are proposing complies. In Scotland the equivalent question is whether the work needs a building warrant, which local authorities administer alongside completion certificates, so the conversation is with the local authority verifier rather than an English approved document. What you should not do is treat guarding as a styling decision: a balustrade that looks the part but is fixed only into decking boards is the classic failure on a raised deck.
Keeping decking safe underfoot through a British winter
Algae is the main enemy of British decking, and it arrives wherever the surface stays damp and shaded. A deck that drains and dries quickly needs less cleaning than one built tight to the ground in a north-facing garden. Clean off green growth before it builds up, keep gaps between boards clear of leaves and moss so water can fall through, and cut back planting that keeps a corner permanently wet.
The rest is an annual look rather than a project: check fixings that have lifted, look for dark soft patches at board ends and around posts, retreat cut ends exposed by any repair, and re-oil or re-treat timber boards on the schedule the product specifies. Steps and the area by the door are worth checking first each autumn, because that is where a slippery surface does the most harm.
What drives the price of a decking quotation
LokalMatch is one way to get comparable numbers in front of you. You describe the decking job once, including the size, the fall across the garden, the height you want the surface to sit at and your postcode, and matched decking and landscaping contractors get in touch directly; they pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not build the deck, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so comparing what each quotation actually includes is your part of the job.
- Height and ground fall, since a raised structure means planning permission, more framing, guarding and steps.
- Access for materials and machinery, particularly gardens reachable only through the house.
- Ground conditions and what has to come out first, such as an old patio, tree roots or made ground.
- Board material and the fixing system it requires, including closer joist centres for some products.
- Drainage work, retaining edges or a step arrangement needed to make the levels work.
- Waste removal, which for a contractor means duty of care, a registered waste carrier and a transfer note.
- Whether the property is listed or on designated land, where the answer may be that decking is not permitted development at all.
Decking: frequently asked questions
Do I need planning permission for decking?
In England, not if it stays within the permitted development conditions: no more than 30cm above the ground, no more than 50 per cent of the garden area covered by the decking together with other extensions and outbuildings, and nothing forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. Above that height, or outside those conditions, you apply for planning permission. Scotland and Northern Ireland use different limits, so check which nation's rules apply to your property.
How high can decking be in Scotland before it needs permission?
Under Class 3D of the Scottish permitted development order, a deck or other raised platform within the curtilage of a dwellinghouse is permitted where the floor level does not exceed 0.5 metres in height and the combined height of the deck and anything attached to it does not exceed 2.5 metres. In a conservation area, or within the curtilage of a listed building, the footprint is limited to 4 square metres. Above those figures, it is a planning application.
Can I build decking at a listed building or in a conservation area?
Not under permitted development in England: within the curtilage of a listed building, no decking or platform is permitted, and on Article 2(3) designated land none is permitted at either side of the house. That does not mean a deck is impossible, but it means the local planning authority decides, and for a listed building you should expect listed building consent to be part of the conversation. Scotland's own class caps decking at 4 square metres in a conservation area or a listed building's curtilage.
Does decking need building regulations approval?
Assume so for anything raised. The Planning Portal's guidance is that building regulations should be assumed to apply to every deck structure requiring planning permission, and the relevant requirements include carrying loads safely to the ground and providing barriers where they are needed to protect people from falling. Your local building control body will confirm what applies; in Scotland the equivalent question is whether a building warrant is required.
Does decking count towards the 50 per cent garden limit?
Yes, in England. The condition is that together with other extensions and outbuildings, the decking or platforms cover no more than 50 per cent of the garden area, so a shed, a garden office and a previous extension all reduce what is left for decking. It is worth totalling the existing structures before designing the deck rather than discovering the limit afterwards.
Is a deck built right against the house a problem?
It can be, if it bridges the damp-proof course. Keeping the deck surface and its framing below that line, and leaving the underside ventilated so it dries between showers, is what stops a new deck causing damp in the wall behind it. A contractor who checks where the damp-proof course sits before setting the deck height is doing the job properly.
Sources
- Planning Portal: decking, planning permission
- Planning Portal: decking, building regulations
- The Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 1 (Parts A and K)
- Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, Schedule 1 (Class 3D)
- Planning (General Permitted Development) Order (Northern Ireland) 2015, Schedule
- Scottish Government: building standards
- GOV.UK: managing your business waste
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of deck
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and complexity of the piece or structure
- Wood species or material
- Custom design compared with standard sizes
- Hardware, railings and finishing
- Removal of what's there now
- Permits and drawings, where needed
How to compare deck builders before you hire
- Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
- Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
- For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
- Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
- Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.
Questions to ask deck builders before you hire
- Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
- What materials will you use, and why?
- Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
- Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
- How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Deck permits and local rules
Some deck work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about deck
- ✦
Carpenters guide
Carpenters and joiners handle most of the timber in a British home. The trade is usually described in two stages.
Read guide - ✦
Trim & Moulding guide
Trim is the joinery that finishes a room rather than holds it up: architrave round the doors, a window board under the cill, dado and picture rails, panel moulding on a wall, plinth blocks, and the beads and stops that…
Read guide - ✦
Coving guide
Crown moulding is the American name for what a British decorator calls coving or, in its more elaborate forms, cornice.
Read guide
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