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Finish Carpentry

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Finish carpentry, or second fix, is everything that goes on after the plasterer: doors hung and eased, architrave and skirting scribed and mitred, window boards, boxing to pipework and soil stacks, ironmongery, loft hatches, and the mouldings that make a room look finished rather than merely built. It is the part of a carpentry job people actually look at, and the part where a millimetre shows.

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Most of it is not regulated, and that is genuinely useful to know: hanging a replacement internal door or running new skirting after decorating is not notifiable work anywhere in the United Kingdom. Two things in the second fix list are different. Glazing in doors and in the panels beside them sits in what the building regulations call a critical location, with a stated performance. And the door between a house and an integral garage is a fire doorset with a specific rating, not a matter of taste.

The rest is craft, and the honest measure of it is how a job looks where surfaces meet: the joint in a long run of skirting, the line of the architrave against a lining that is not plumb, the gap under a door over a carpet that has not been laid yet. Those are the details worth agreeing before anyone starts cutting.

What second fix carpentry actually includes

  • Hanging doors: fitting to the lining, cutting hinges, setting the latch and easing the leaf so it closes without binding in winter.
  • Architrave and skirting: mitres at external corners, scribed internal joints, and scarf joints in long runs so shrinkage does not open a gap.
  • Window boards and cills, including the packing needed where a reveal is neither square nor level.
  • Boxing and casing to soil stacks, pipework and meter cupboards, ideally with a removable panel where a valve or a joint sits behind it.
  • Ironmongery: handles, latches, hinges, closers, bolts and locks, fitted to the door rather than fitted approximately.
  • Loft hatches and access panels, from a simple lay-in panel to an insulated, draught-sealed hatch with a folding ladder.
  • Mouldings and panelling: picture rails, dado rails, panelled walls and the reinstatement of profiles in period rooms.
  • Flooring accessories such as thresholds and cover strips, which are the last thing fitted and the first thing noticed.

Timber that moves, and boards that do not

Almost every complaint about second fix work a few months later is about movement. Timber takes up and gives off moisture with the air around it, and a British house swings from a damp autumn to a dry, heated winter within weeks. Solid timber skirting cut and fixed in a cold, freshly plastered house will shrink once the heating goes on, and the joints that were invisible in November open in January. That is the material behaving normally, not a defect, and the answer is to let materials stand in the room before they are cut rather than to fit them off the van.

Engineered and composite materials trade one problem for another. Medium density fibreboard is dimensionally stable, takes a painted finish beautifully and is the default for painted skirting, architrave and panelling, but it swells irreversibly if it gets wet and is heavy to handle. Finger-jointed and veneered mouldings are more stable than solid lengths but show the joint under a stain. Hardwood for a stained or oiled finish needs to be selected for grain and colour across the whole job at once, because a later batch rarely matches.

The finish is part of the material decision. A pre-primed moulding saves a coat but still needs the cut ends sealed. An oiled hardwood threshold in a doorway will need re-oiling. Agreeing who fills, sands, caulks and decorates, and to what standard, avoids the common argument in which the carpenter expects the decorator to fill and the decorator expects the carpenter to have done it.

Glass in doors and side panels: the critical locations rule

Requirement K4 of the building regulations is about protection against impact with glazing, and Section 5 of Approved Document K, the 2013 edition, defines where it applies. The critical locations are the areas where a person is most likely to walk into glass: in doors and in any side panel within 300mm of the door, glazing between floor level and 1500mm above it, and elsewhere in walls and partitions, glazing between floor level and 800mm above it.

In those locations the approved document asks for one of four approaches: glazing that breaks safely, glazing that is robust, glazing in small panes, or glazing that is permanently protected. Safe breakage is defined in BS EN 12600 and BS 6206, and a glazing material is suitable for a critical location if it meets Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206, or, in a door or door side panel with a pane width over 900mm, Class 2 of BS EN 12600 or Class B of BS 6206.

For a homeowner the practical version is short. If a carpenter is fitting a glazed internal door, cutting glass into an existing door, or building a screen beside one, the glass specification is part of the job and should appear on the quotation. A pane of ordinary annealed glass put into a door because it was to hand is the kind of shortcut that causes a serious injury, and it is not compliant.

The door between the house and an integral garage

This is the one second fix door with a specification behind it. Approved Document B volume 1 says that where a garage is attached to or forms an integral part of a dwellinghouse, the garage should be separated from the rest of the house by fire-resisting construction of at least REI 30 from the garage side. Where there is a door between the two, the document's diagram calls for a fire doorset of at least E 30 Sa fitted with a self-closing device.

There is a second, less obvious condition about liquids rather than fire. Either the garage floor should be laid so that it falls away from the door towards the outside, allowing a fuel spill to run away from the house, or the door opening should be at least 100mm above the level of the garage floor. That step at the threshold is not a design quirk; it is doing a job.

The same logic applies to a door that a loft conversion has turned into part of an escape route. Where a new storey creates a storey more than 4.5m above ground level, the approved document expects the full extent of the escape route to be addressed, with fire-resisting doors of at least E 20 and partitions of at least REI 30, upgrading existing doors where necessary. A carpenter who hangs a plain door onto that route has done neat work that fails the regulations.

Why second fix looks wrong in an old house, and what fixes it

  • Door linings that are out of plumb: the door is scribed to the lining rather than the lining ignored, or the lining is re-set before the door is hung.
  • Floors that fall across a doorway, which makes an even gap under the door impossible unless the bottom is tapered to match.
  • Bowed plaster behind skirting, which leaves a shadow gap along the top unless the board is scribed or the wall is packed.
  • Mitres that open at external corners as the timber dries, which is why a well-cut joint is glued and pinned, not just pinned.
  • Architrave that cannot sit flat because the plaster is proud of the lining, a problem solved before fixing rather than filled afterwards.
  • Doors that bind in winter and rattle in summer, the ordinary consequence of seasonal movement in a solid timber leaf.
  • Skirting fixed through a damp-affected wall, where the fixings rust and the paint blisters until the damp is dealt with first.

Sequencing second fix so nothing has to be done twice

Order decides how much of the work survives. Plastering and any wet trades come first and need time to dry. Materials then stand in the heated room for as long as the programme allows so that they reach something like their final moisture content. Doors are hung before architrave so that the lining can be adjusted. Skirting goes on after architrave so it butts into it cleanly. Flooring is the argument: a floating floor laid before skirting gives a neater edge, while carpet laid afterwards needs the door bottom left long and eased at the end.

Decoration is the other sequencing decision that costs money when it is made late. Painting mouldings before fixing, with a final coat afterwards, gives a better finish than trying to cut in against a fixed skirting, but it needs the decorator on site at the right moment. Agree that with both trades at quotation stage rather than on the day.

Finally, agree what snagging means. Doors settle, catches need adjusting and filler shrinks slightly, so a short return visit a few weeks after completion is normal good practice rather than an admission that something went wrong.

What moves a finish carpentry quotation, and how LokalMatch fits in

Second fix is priced by the number of items and by how true the building is. A run of identical doors in a square new-build moves quickly; the same number of doors in a converted terrace, each in a lining of a different size and none of them plumb, takes far longer. The main variables are how many doors, whether linings are being replaced, the profile and material of the mouldings, whether glazed doors are involved and who supplies the glass, how much boxing and panelling is included, who fills and decorates, and whether the room is occupied and needs sheeting and clearing each day.

LokalMatch exists to shorten the search. Post the job once with your postcode, listing the rooms, the number of doors and whether mouldings are supplied or included, and carpenters covering your area will contact you. It costs homeowners nothing; the trades pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the carpentry, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so comparing what is in each quotation, and checking insurance and past work, is still down to you.

Finish Carpentry: frequently asked questions

What glass has to be used in an internal glazed door?

Glazing in a door, and in any side panel within 300mm of it, is in a critical location up to 1500mm above floor level under Section 5 of Approved Document K. The glazing must break safely, be robust, be in small panes or be permanently protected. Safe breakage means Class 3 of BS EN 12600 or Class C of BS 6206, or Class 2 or Class B where the pane in a door or side panel is wider than 900mm. Elsewhere in a wall the critical zone is up to 800mm above the floor.

Does the door from my kitchen into the garage need to be a fire door?

In England, yes. Approved Document B volume 1 requires an attached or integral garage to be separated from the house by construction of at least REI 30 from the garage side, and shows the connecting door as a fire doorset of at least E 30 Sa with a self-closing device. It also asks for either a garage floor that falls away from the door to the outside or a door opening at least 100mm above the garage floor, so that spilt fuel runs away from the house.

Why do my new skirting joints keep opening up?

Almost always seasonal movement. Timber gives off moisture in a heated house in winter and takes it up again in a damp summer, so a length fitted in a cold, newly plastered room shrinks once the heating is on. Letting material stand in the room before cutting, gluing as well as pinning mitres, using scarf joints in long runs and caulking the top edge all reduce it, but no joint in solid timber is completely immune.

Should the carpenter or the decorator fill and sand?

There is no standard answer, which is exactly why it should be written down. Many carpenters fill nail holes and leave the finish sanding and caulking to the decorator; others price for a fully filled and sanded finish. Agree it before work starts, along with whether mouldings are primed before fixing, and you avoid the most common end-of-job dispute in second fix work.

Do I need approval to change internal doors and skirting?

Replacing internal doors, architrave and skirting in a house is not notifiable work, and no competent person scheme covers carpentry. Two exceptions are worth remembering: doors on an escape route created by a loft conversion and the door to an integral garage have stated fire performance, and glazing in doors and side panels has to meet the critical locations rule. A listed building is a separate question, because internal joinery there can need listed building consent.

Sources

  1. Approved Document K: protection from falling, collision and impact, 2013 edition (Section 5, critical glazing locations)
  2. Approved Document B volume 1: dwellings (garage separation, paragraphs 5.6 and 5.7; loft conversions, paragraph 2.21)
  3. The Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 1 (requirements B3 and K4)
  4. Consumer Rights Act 2015, section 49 (service to be performed with reasonable care and skill)

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of finish carpentry

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare finish carpenters before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask finish carpenters before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Finish carpentry permits and local rules

Some finish carpentry work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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