Kitchen Cabinets
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Replacing kitchen units is the part of a kitchen project that people picture, but it is rarely the part that decides the programme. Fitting new units means stripping out the old kitchen, checking what the walls and floor are actually like behind it, setting carcases level and plumb across a floor that probably is not, templating the worktop after the units are in, and then bringing in the trades whose work is controlled by law: the electrician and, if there is a gas hob, a Gas Safe registered engineer.
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Planning permission is usually not the issue. The Planning Portal states that a planning application for installing a kitchen or bathroom is generally not required unless it is part of a house extension, while adding that if your property is a listed building you should consult the local planning authority, because significant works to a listed building need consent whether they are internal or external.
The building regulations are a different matter. Electrical work in dwellings falls under Part P, which requires reasonable provision in the design and installation of electrical installations to protect people operating, maintaining or altering them from fire or injury, and some of that work has to be notified. Ventilation is covered too: Schedule 1 requires that there shall be adequate means of ventilation provided for people in the building, which in a kitchen is the extract over or near the hob.
Rigid units, flat-pack and made-to-measure: how British kitchen units are supplied
Almost every quotation you receive will be based on one of three supply routes, and the differences show up in the fitting time rather than in the brochure photographs.
- Rigid units arrive already assembled and glued, which usually means a squarer carcase and faster fitting, but they take more storage space on site and cost more to deliver.
- Flat-pack units are assembled on site or in the fitter's workshop; assembly quality varies enormously, and a badly built carcase never comes right afterwards.
- Made-to-measure and handmade units are built to the room, which suits period properties with chimney breasts, sloping ceilings and walls that are nowhere near square.
- Door fronts on standard carcases are a route of their own: keeping sound units and changing only doors, drawer fronts and end panels.
- Semi-handless and integrated-appliance ranges add fitting complexity, since the appliance doors have to line up with everything else.
- Tall units, larders and pull-out mechanisms carry weight, so the fixings into the wall and the carcase construction matter more than on a base unit.
- Islands and peninsulas need services planned early, because taking power or waste into the middle of a floor is a floor-up decision, not a fitting-day one.
Carcase materials, fronts and worktops that survive a British kitchen
- Chipboard carcases faced with melamine are the standard; the weakness is water, so the sink and dishwasher bases are where moisture-resistant board earns its money.
- Plywood carcases hold fixings better and tolerate the occasional leak, which is why some fitters specify them for the sink run even in a melamine kitchen.
- MDF takes a sprayed painted finish beautifully and is the usual base for painted doors and end panels, though it is heavy and dislikes standing water.
- Solid timber doors move with humidity, so painted timber frames can show fine lines at the joints over the seasons; that is the material behaving normally rather than a fault.
- Laminate worktops are the practical default and fail at the joints and around the sink cut-out, so sealing and the quality of the mitre matter more than the pattern.
- Stone, quartz and solid-surface worktops are templated after the units are fitted and cut off site, which puts a gap of days in the programme.
- Timber worktops need oiling before and after fitting, including the underside and cut-outs, and are a poor match for a household that leaves water standing.
How a kitchen fitting job runs, and where the delays come from
A kitchen fit runs in a fixed order: strip out, then any plastering, first fix plumbing and electrics, floor preparation, units set out and levelled, appliances placed, worktop templated and fitted, then sink, taps, hob connection, splashbacks and second fix electrics. The two points where the programme usually slips are the strip-out, when what is behind the old units turns out to need attention, and the worktop template, which cannot happen until the units are in and cannot be rushed afterwards.
A kitchen fitter may do most of this personally and bring in the regulated trades for their parts. That is normal and legitimate, but it should be written down: who connects the hob, who does the electrical work, whether the electrician is registered with a competent person scheme, and who is responsible for making good the plastering and the flooring.
LokalMatch is a way to reach those fitters without ringing round. You describe the kitchen once, including the size of the room, whether units are being replaced like-for-like or the layout is changing, whether the hob is gas or electric, and your postcode, and matched kitchen fitters and carpenters get in touch with you directly; they pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not fit kitchens, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking registrations, insurance and previous work is still your job.
Part P electrical work, the gas hob, and the paperwork a new kitchen should leave behind
Not all kitchen electrical work has to be notified, but some of it does, and the distinction is set out in regulation 12 of the Building Regulations 2010. In England, the notifiable work is the installation of a new circuit, the replacement of a consumer unit, or any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location, where a special location means a room containing a bath or shower within the defined distances of the tap or shower head, or a room with a swimming pool or sauna heater. A kitchen is not itself a special location in England, so adding a spur for an extractor may not be notifiable while running a new circuit for a cooker or replacing the consumer unit is. Wales has its own provision in the same regulation, so ask locally rather than assuming. Either way, all of the work must still meet Part P, which is about protecting people from fire and injury rather than about paperwork.
Gas is simpler and absolute. Regulation 3 of the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 provides that no person shall carry out any work in relation to a gas fitting unless competent to do so, and generally only members of an approved class of persons may do it. HSE puts it plainly: anyone employed to work on gas appliances in domestic premises must be a Gas Safe registered engineer and competent in that area of gas work, and every registered engineer carries an ID card showing which appliances they are qualified to work on. Check the card, and check the business on the register, before a hob is disconnected or reconnected.
Keep what the job produces. Where a tradesperson is registered with a competent person scheme they notify the local authority on your behalf and give you a certificate within eight weeks of completion, which government notes will show up in solicitors' searches when you sell. In Scotland the building standards system works through a building warrant and a completion certificate issued by the local authority, and Northern Ireland works to the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012, so the certificates you should end up with depend on where the property is.
New units, new doors, or a full kitchen refit?
Three different projects hide behind the phrase new kitchen, and they have different costs, timescales and disruption. Replacing doors and drawer fronts keeps the carcases, the worktop and every service where it is, and can be done in a day or two; it works when the units are sound, the layout suits you and only the appearance is tired.
Replacing units while keeping the layout means new carcases, doors and usually a new worktop, with the sink, hob and sockets staying roughly where they are. That keeps the regulated work to a minimum and is the most predictable of the three. Moving the layout, or opening the kitchen into another room, turns the job into a refit involving several trades, probable notifiable electrical work, new waste and supply runs and, where a wall comes out, structural work and building control. If the carcases are swollen at the sink base, sagging under a heavy worktop or built to a layout you have worked around for years, replacement is the honest answer; if not, new doors buy years for a fraction of the disruption.
Guarantees, certificates and what to insist on in writing
- A written specification listing unit ranges, carcase material, worktop material and edge detail, appliances, handles and who supplies each item.
- Confirmation of who will carry out any electrical work and which competent person scheme they belong to, or that a building control body is involved instead.
- The Gas Safe registered engineer's details for the hob connection, with the ID card checked on the day.
- The competent person scheme certificate for notifiable electrical work, which should arrive within eight weeks of completion.
- Manufacturer guarantees for units, worktops and appliances, which often depend on how the item was installed and maintained.
- A snagging visit agreed in advance, since doors and drawers usually need adjusting once the kitchen has been in use for a few weeks.
- The statutory position behind all of it: under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 the service must be performed with reasonable care and skill.
What actually moves a kitchen fitting quotation
- Whether the layout stays put or moves, since relocating the sink, waste or hob brings in plumbing, electrical and sometimes gas work.
- The state of the walls and floor behind the old kitchen, which is not known until strip-out day and is where contingency gets used.
- Worktop material, because stone and composite tops are templated after fitting and cut off site, adding a return visit.
- Whether units are rigid or flat-pack, and who assembles them.
- How square and level the room is: period properties absorb time in scribing, packing and filler panels.
- Whether the electrical work is notifiable, and whether the installer is scheme-registered or a building control application is needed.
- Access and disposal, including getting the old kitchen out of a flat and away with a registered waste carrier.
Kitchen Cabinets: frequently asked questions
Do I need planning permission to fit a new kitchen?
Generally no. The Planning Portal says a planning application for installing a kitchen or bathroom is not usually required unless it is part of a house extension. The exception is a listed building, where you should consult the local planning authority, because significant works to a listed building need listed building consent whether they are internal or external.
Is the electrical work in a new kitchen notifiable?
Some of it. In England, regulation 12 of the Building Regulations 2010 makes notifiable the installation of a new circuit, the replacement of a consumer unit, and additions or alterations to existing circuits in a special location, which means bath or shower rooms within defined distances, swimming pools and saunas rather than kitchens. So a new cooker circuit or a consumer unit change is notifiable while some smaller alterations are not, though all work must still comply with Part P. Wales has its own version of the same regulation.
Can my kitchen fitter connect the gas hob?
Only if they are Gas Safe registered for that work. Regulation 3 of the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 says no person shall carry out work in relation to a gas fitting unless competent to do so, and HSE states that anyone employed to work on gas appliances in domestic premises must be a Gas Safe registered engineer and competent in that area of gas work. Ask to see the ID card, which shows which appliances they are qualified to work on, and check the business on the register.
Do kitchen fitters need a licence in the UK?
No. Kitchen fitting, like carpentry and joinery generally, is not a licensed trade, and there is no register of kitchen fitters to check. What is regulated is the work inside the job: gas connections require a Gas Safe registered engineer, and electrical work in dwellings is covered by Part P, with competent person scheme registration allowing an installer to self-certify. Beyond that, rely on insurance, a written specification and work you can inspect.
What paperwork should I have at the end of a kitchen fit?
Where notifiable electrical work was done by a scheme-registered installer, a certificate should reach you within eight weeks of completion, and the local authority is told on your behalf; government notes this shows up in solicitors' searches when you sell. Keep the Gas Safe engineer's record for the hob, the manufacturer guarantees for units, worktops and appliances, and the written specification. In Scotland, the equivalent building standards documents are the building warrant and completion certificate issued by the local authority.
Can I keep my existing units and just change the doors?
Yes, if the carcases are sound, square and not swollen at the sink or dishwasher base, and if the layout still works for how you cook. Changing doors, drawer fronts and end panels avoids touching the services entirely, which usually means no notifiable work and no worktop template. Check the hinge positions and drawer boxes first, since worn hinges and stapled drawer boxes are the parts that make a refreshed kitchen feel old again.
Sources
- Planning Portal: kitchens and bathrooms, planning permission
- The Building Regulations 2010, regulation 12 (notifiable electrical work)
- The Building Regulations 2010, Schedule 1 (Parts F and P)
- Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, regulation 3
- HSE: domestic gas frequently asked questions
- GOV.UK: use a competent person scheme
- Scottish Government: building standards
- Consumer Rights Act 2015, section 49
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of kitchen cabinet
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and complexity of the piece or structure
- Wood species or material
- Custom design compared with standard sizes
- Hardware, railings and finishing
- Removal of what's there now
- Permits and drawings, where needed
How to compare cabinet installers before you hire
- Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
- Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
- For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
- Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
- Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.
Questions to ask cabinet installers before you hire
- Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
- What materials will you use, and why?
- Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
- Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
- How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Kitchen cabinet permits and local rules
Some kitchen cabinet work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingGuides about kitchen cabinet
- ✦
Carpenters guide
Carpenters and joiners handle most of the timber in a British home. The trade is usually described in two stages.
Read guide - ✦
Trim & Moulding guide
Trim is the joinery that finishes a room rather than holds it up: architrave round the doors, a window board under the cill, dado and picture rails, panel moulding on a wall, plinth blocks, and the beads and stops that…
Read guide - ✦
Coving guide
Crown moulding is the American name for what a British decorator calls coving or, in its more elaborate forms, cornice.
Read guide
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