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Cabinet Repair

Cabinet Repair near you

Cabinet repair is the unglamorous work that keeps a kitchen, wardrobe or vanity unit going for another decade: a drawer that will not close, a door that fouls its neighbour, a hinge plate pulling out of chipboard, a swollen base under a slow leak, a soft-close mechanism that has given up, a worktop joint letting water into the board beneath. Most of it is an hour or two of skilled work with the right parts, and most of it is cheaper than anyone expects.

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The judgement that matters is which failures are worth repairing and which are the visible end of something structural. A hinge that has torn out of a carcase is a fixing problem; a base panel that has gone soft and dark is a water problem, and replacing the hinge simply delays the conversation. Doing that diagnosis properly is why a repair visit should start with someone emptying a cupboard and looking at it with a torch.

Where a cabinet is still fairly new, the law may be doing some of the work for you. Goods supplied under a consumer contract carry statutory rights that survive the fitter leaving, and those rights sit alongside, not instead of, whatever manufacturer guarantee came with the units.

What a failing cabinet looks like before it falls apart

  • Doors that no longer line up: uneven reveals between fronts are usually hinges, but can be a carcase that has racked out of square.
  • A drawer that drops at the front or catches on one side, which points to a runner out of alignment or a drawer box coming apart at its joints.
  • Screws that turn without tightening, the classic sign that a fixing has stripped the chipboard around it.
  • A dark line or a soft, spongy feel along the front edge of a base unit floor, which is water rather than wear.
  • A wall unit that has moved down the wall a few millimetres, which is a fixing failure and should be dealt with as urgent.
  • Swelling at the bottom of an end panel or plinth, typically under a dishwasher or washing machine that has been weeping quietly.
  • Laminate lifting at a worktop joint or around a sink cut-out, which lets water into the board and is the start of a much bigger repair.

The five failures that account for most cabinet repairs

Hinges and their fixings come first. A European cup hinge takes the whole weight of a door on two small plates, and when the screws strip out of chipboard the door drops and fouls its neighbour. The proper repair is not a longer screw but restoring the material the screw bites into, using a glued dowel, a resin repair or a mounting plate that reaches into sound board. The cheap version fails again within months.

Water is second and does the most damage. Chipboard with a melamine face is dimensionally stable until water gets past the edge, at which point it swells irreversibly and loses all its fixing strength. The weeping point is usually a dishwasher connection, a waste trap, a tap tail or a worktop joint at the sink, and the cabinet damage is a symptom. Replacing a base panel without finding the source guarantees a repeat.

The remaining three are more mundane. Drawer runners wear, lose their detents and stop closing softly, and on most systems can be replaced as a pair for very little. Drawer boxes built with staples pull apart at the front joint under load and can often be reglued and re-pinned properly. Doors themselves delaminate or chip at the edges, where a repair is cosmetic and honest refinishing of one front rarely matches the rest of a run.

Repair the unit, replace the unit, or replace the kitchen

Repair is almost always right where the carcase is dry and square and the failure is a component: hinges, runners, a drawer box, a handle, a soft-close damper, a plinth. These are standard parts, widely available, and a competent joiner can carry a selection in the van. The work is quick and the outcome is a cupboard that behaves like a new one.

Replacing a single unit makes sense where one carcase has been damaged by water and the rest of the run is sound, provided the doors can be matched or transferred. It is more disruptive than it sounds because a worktop often has to be released and a run of units unscrewed from each other, and the new box has to match the old one's height exactly for the worktop to sit flat.

Replacing the kitchen becomes the honest answer when the failures are general rather than local: several swollen bases, a worktop that has gone soft at the sink, hinge fixings stripping across the room, and a layout you have been working around for years. At that point repairs are a series of small payments against a decision that has already made itself.

Your rights when fairly new cabinets fail

The Consumer Rights Act 2015 gives goods bought under a consumer contract a set of remedies that are worth knowing before you pay for a repair. The short-term right to reject runs for 30 days beginning with the first day after delivery and transfer of ownership, and that clock pauses while the trader attempts a repair or replacement. Section 23 requires a trader to repair or replace non-conforming goods within a reasonable time and without significant inconvenience to you, bearing the costs, and a trader may refuse one remedy only where it is impossible or disproportionately expensive compared with the other.

If one repair or replacement has already been attempted and the goods still do not conform, section 24 gives you a price reduction or the final right to reject, though not both, and no deduction for use may be made where the final right to reject is exercised in the first six months. Those rights run against the trader who sold you the goods, not against the manufacturer, which matters when the fitter and the supplier were different businesses.

Where the fault is in workmanship rather than in the goods, section 49 of the same Act implies a term that a service will be performed with reasonable care and skill. Manufacturer guarantees on hinges, runners and worktops sit on top of all of this and often run for years, so keep the paperwork from the original installation even after the fitter has gone.

What a competent repair visit looks like

  • Cupboards are emptied and inspected with a torch, including the back corners and under the sink, before anything is quoted.
  • The source of any water is traced and stopped first, since a repaired base under a live leak is wasted work.
  • Fixings are repaired into sound material with dowels, resin or longer plates rather than being driven into stripped chipboard.
  • Hardware is matched by system and size, not by appearance, because hinges and runners are not interchangeable between makes.
  • Doors are realigned across the whole run at the end, so that reveals are consistent rather than each door being set on its own.
  • Any water-damaged panel that is left in place is recorded in writing, with what would be needed to replace it later.
  • Old panels and packaging leave with the tradesperson, since kitchen board is not something to put out with household rubbish.

Making units last, and catching leaks early

  • Look under the sink with a torch once a month, feeling the back corners of the base for damp before it shows on the front edge.
  • Re-seal the worktop joint at the sink and around the cut-out as soon as the sealant shrinks or discolours.
  • Tighten hinge and mounting plate screws gently once a year, stopping at the first sign that a screw is turning without biting.
  • Adjust doors as soon as a reveal goes uneven, rather than waiting until a door is rubbing on its neighbour.
  • Keep heavy items in base units rather than wall units, and never hang a full shopping bag off an open drawer front.
  • Fit a drip tray or leak detector under a dishwasher or washing machine that sits in a run of units.
  • Clean drawer runners of grit and grease occasionally, since most soft-close mechanisms fail because they are dirty rather than broken.

What a cabinet repair quotation depends on, and how LokalMatch fits in

Repairs are usually priced on a call-out plus time and parts, so the figure depends on how many items are on the list, whether the parts are standard or have to be identified from an obsolete system, whether water damage has been found and how far it extends, whether a worktop has to be released to reach anything, and whether the job needs a second visit once parts arrive. Collecting every small fault in the house into one visit is the single most effective way to keep the cost down.

LokalMatch is the introduction and nothing more. Describe the faults once with your postcode, with photographs if you have them, and joiners and kitchen fitters covering your area will contact you. Homeowners pay nothing to use it, and the trades pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out repairs, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who replies, so it is worth asking each of them what they think the underlying cause is before you choose.

Cabinet Repair: frequently asked questions

My kitchen is two years old and the drawers have failed. Do I have any rights?

Possibly. Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 the trader who supplied the goods must repair or replace non-conforming goods within a reasonable time and without significant inconvenience to you, bearing the costs, and after one failed attempt you can seek a price reduction or exercise the final right to reject. The 30-day short-term right to reject will long have passed at two years, but the repair and replacement remedy is not limited to 30 days. Manufacturer guarantees on runners and hinges often run longer still.

Can a swollen cabinet base be repaired or does the unit have to go?

Swelling in melamine-faced chipboard is not reversible, so the panel itself has to be replaced rather than dried out. Whether that means a new panel or a new carcase depends on how the unit is built and how far the damage has spread into the sides and back. The more important step is finding and fixing the water first, because in almost every case the cabinet is the symptom of a weeping dishwasher connection, waste trap, tap tail or worktop joint.

Why do my cupboard doors keep dropping?

Usually because the hinge screws have stripped the chipboard they are fixed into, so the plate has nothing solid to hold. Driving in a longer or fatter screw is a temporary fix at best. The lasting repair restores the material around the fixing with a glued dowel or a resin repair, or uses a mounting plate that reaches into sound board. Very heavy doors on tall or larder units may also need a third hinge.

Are cabinet hinges and runners interchangeable between brands?

Not reliably. Cup hinges vary in cup diameter, boring position, arm length and the mounting plate they use, and drawer runners differ in length, load rating, fixing centres and the way the drawer box locates onto them. A repairer will usually photograph or take away a sample to match the system rather than guessing. Where a system is obsolete, a whole-drawer or whole-door solution may be cheaper than hunting for parts.

Is it worth repairing an old kitchen at all?

It is, if the carcases are dry and square and the faults are components rather than the boxes. Hinges, runners, drawer boxes, dampers and handles are inexpensive standard parts and a run of them can be replaced in a morning, which buys years. Once several bases have swollen, the worktop has softened at the sink and fixings are stripping across the room, repairs stop being economical and become instalments towards a decision you have already made.

Sources

  1. Consumer Rights Act 2015, remedies for goods that do not conform (sections 19 to 24)
  2. Consumer Rights Act 2015, section 49 (reasonable care and skill)

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of cabinet repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare carpenters before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask carpenters before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Cabinet repair permits and local rules

Some cabinet repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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