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Cabinet Refacing

Cabinet Refacing near you

Refacing keeps the carcases, the worktop and every service exactly where they are, and changes what you see: doors, drawer fronts, end panels, plinths and cornices, and sometimes the visible edges of the boxes themselves. In British homes it has become popular for a simple reason. A great many kitchens fitted in the last twenty years have perfectly sound chipboard or plywood carcases and tired, chipped or unfashionable fronts, and replacing the whole thing means ripping out something that still works.

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There are two quite different trades hiding under the same word. One is replacement: new doors and drawer fronts made to fit the existing carcases, plus new end panels and trims. The other is refinishing: spraying or hand-painting the existing doors and frames in place or off site. They cost different amounts, last different lengths of time and carry very different health risks for the people doing the work.

That last point is not a detail. In-situ spraying of a kitchen brings a paint mist into an occupied house, and if the product is a two-pack isocyanate system the controls it needs are serious ones. Understanding which system a quotation is based on tells you as much about the company as the price does.

Four ways to reface a kitchen, and how long each lasts

  • Replacement doors and drawer fronts, made to the existing hinge and carcase dimensions, with new end panels and plinths to match.
  • Vinyl or foil wrapping of new substrate doors, which is cheap and uniform but vulnerable to steam lifting the film at edges near an oven or kettle.
  • Workshop spraying of your existing doors, which are removed, prepared, sprayed off site and rehung, giving the hardest and most even finish.
  • In-situ spraying of doors and frames, faster and cheaper because nothing leaves the house, but demanding far more masking and ventilation control.
  • Hand-painting with a brush and roller, which leaves some texture but is the easiest finish to repair or recoat in a few years.
  • Carcase edge banding or laminating, which refreshes the visible front edges of boxes so that new doors do not sit against tired carcases.
  • Hardware replacement alongside any of these: new hinges, soft-close runners and handles, which change how the kitchen feels more than how it looks.

When refacing is the right answer and when it is money wasted

Refacing works when the bones are good. Carcases that are square, dry and solid, a layout you have no wish to change, a worktop you can live with, and doors that are dated or damaged rather than falling off. In that situation refacing avoids the strip-out, the waste, the plastering, the services and the worktop template, which together account for most of the disruption of a new kitchen.

It is a poor investment in three situations. First, where the sink or dishwasher base has swollen, the bottom panel has gone soft or the carcase backs are blown, because new doors will be hung on a box that is already failing. Second, where the layout is the actual complaint, since no amount of new doors changes where the oven is. Third, where the hinges and drawer boxes are worn out and stapled together, because the kitchen will still feel old every time it is opened even though it looks new.

A useful test before committing is to empty one base unit completely, look at the back and bottom panels with a torch, and open and close the drawer twenty times. If the box is dry and square and the drawer runs straight, refacing has something sound to attach to. If not, the money is better spent elsewhere.

Spraying in an occupied house: isocyanates, dust and ventilation

Two-pack finishes give kitchen doors their hardness, and many of them contain isocyanates. HSE is blunt about the risk: spraying isocyanates is a significant cause of occupational asthma, symptoms can appear immediately or hours later in the evening or early morning, continued exposure can result in permanent and severe asthma, and there is no cure. It also warns that anyone near this work is at risk, not only the person holding the gun.

The controls HSE describes are correspondingly serious. Spraying should be done in an enclosed area with local exhaust ventilation where possible; high-volume low-pressure or airless equipment reduces overspray compared with conventional compressed air spraying; the operator needs constant flow air-fed breathing apparatus with an assigned protection factor of 40 and should keep it on until they have left the spraying area; and health surveillance includes annual lung function testing and a questionnaire. A contractor proposing to spray a two-pack system inside your kitchen while the family uses the rest of the house should be able to explain exactly how each of those is being met, and what happens to anyone else in the building.

Sanding is the quieter hazard in the same job. HSE's workplace exposure limits for wood dust are 3mg per cubic metre for hardwood dust and 5mg per cubic metre for softwood dust, both as eight-hour time-weighted averages, and it notes that carpenters and joiners are four times more likely than other UK workers to develop asthma, and that hardwood dust can cause cancer, particularly of the nose. On-tool extraction and sheeting off the rest of the house are the visible signs that a company takes this seriously.

How a refacing job runs over two or three days

  • Survey and template: every door and drawer front measured individually, since a fitted kitchen rarely has as many identical sizes as it appears.
  • Hinge check, because replacement doors have to be bored to match the existing carcase drillings or the carcases have to be redrilled.
  • Removal of doors, drawer fronts, handles and trims, with each piece labelled to its opening if they are being refinished rather than replaced.
  • Preparation: degreasing, keying the surface, filling chips and priming, which is where a durable finish is actually won.
  • Masking and protection of worktops, floors, appliances and adjoining rooms, plus arrangements for ventilation if spraying is happening on site.
  • Finishing or fitting of the new fronts, followed by end panels, plinths, cornice and any carcase edge treatment.
  • Rehanging and alignment, which is the fiddly part: reveals between doors should be even, and adjustment is easier before the handles go on.
  • A curing period during which a freshly sprayed finish should not be scrubbed or loaded, and which the contractor should tell you about in days, not hours.

What goes wrong with refaced kitchens

  • Poor preparation under a good paint, which shows up as chipping at edges and around handles within the first year.
  • Steam from a kettle or dishwasher lifting the edge of a wrapped door, usually at the corner nearest the appliance.
  • New doors hung on worn hinges, which sag and refuse to hold an even reveal however carefully they are adjusted.
  • Mismatched sheen between doors sprayed off site and frames painted in place, which is most visible in raking daylight.
  • Colour drift when a single door is replaced later, since a repaint of one front rarely matches a finish that has aged.
  • Overspray on worktops, hinges, appliances or floors, the usual consequence of masking done quickly.
  • Carcase edges left untouched, so that crisp new doors sit against scuffed and dated box fronts.

Keeping a refaced finish looking new

  • Leave the finish to cure fully before washing it, and follow whatever curing time the contractor gives in writing.
  • Clean with a soft cloth and a mild detergent rather than cream cleaners or scouring pads, which dull a sprayed finish quickly.
  • Wipe splashes off immediately around the hob and sink, since standing water and oil are what break down a paint film at the edges.
  • Open the dishwasher door only after the steam cycle has settled, or fit a heat deflector strip, to protect the fronts above it.
  • Adjust hinges as soon as a reveal goes uneven, rather than letting a door drop and rub against its neighbour.
  • Keep a labelled touch-up pot of the finish from the job, because matching it later from a colour name alone is unreliable.

What changes a refacing quotation, and how LokalMatch fits in

The biggest single variable is which of the two trades you are buying: new fronts or a refinished set. After that come the number of doors and drawers rather than the size of the kitchen, whether end panels, plinths and cornices are included, the hardware being changed, whether the work happens on site or in a workshop, how much masking an occupied house needs, and whether the carcase fronts are being treated as well. Access matters too, since a first-floor flat with no lift adds time to every trip.

LokalMatch handles the introduction only. Describe the kitchen once with your postcode, say how many doors and drawers there are and whether you want them replaced or refinished, and companies working in your area get in touch with you. Homeowners are not charged; the businesses pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the refacing, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so asking about the finish system, the dust and spray controls and what the guarantee covers is your job.

Cabinet Refacing: frequently asked questions

Is it safe to have kitchen doors sprayed while I am living in the house?

It depends entirely on the product and the controls. HSE states that spraying isocyanates is a significant cause of occupational asthma and that anyone near the work is at risk, and expects spraying in an enclosed area with local exhaust ventilation, constant flow air-fed breathing apparatus with an assigned protection factor of 40, and health surveillance for the operator. If a two-pack system is being used inside your kitchen, ask how the area is enclosed and ventilated and where everyone else in the house will be.

How long does a refaced kitchen last?

It depends on preparation more than on price. A properly degreased, keyed, filled and primed surface with a hard finish behaves like a new door; a finish applied over grease and gloss chips within months, first at the edges and around handles. Wrapped doors are the most predictable failure: steam eventually lifts the film at the corners nearest the kettle, dishwasher or oven. Ask what the preparation sequence is and what the guarantee actually covers.

Can any kitchen be refaced?

Only one with sound carcases. Empty a base unit and inspect the back and bottom panels with a torch: if the sink or dishwasher base has swollen, the bottom has gone soft or the backs are blown, new fronts are being hung on a failing box. Worn hinges and stapled drawer boxes are the other disqualifier, because the kitchen will still feel old in use. Where the layout itself is the complaint, refacing cannot help at all.

Do I need any permission to reface kitchen units?

No. Refacing does not touch the structure, the services or the layout, so it is not building work and nothing is notifiable. The exception is a listed building, where even internal alterations can need listed building consent and the local planning authority is the right first call. In a leasehold flat, check whether your lease requires the landlord to be told about internal works before contractors start, particularly where spraying and ventilation are involved.

Will the new doors fit my existing hinges?

Usually, but it has to be checked rather than assumed. Replacement doors are bored to match the hinge cup positions and the carcase drillings in your kitchen, so the survey should record hinge type, cup diameter and position on every door. Where the existing hinges are worn, replacing them at the same time is worth the small extra cost, because a sagging hinge will spoil the look of a brand-new front.

Sources

  1. HSE: construction isocyanates, spraying
  2. HSE: wood dust (workplace exposure limits, asthma and nasal cancer)
  3. Consumer Rights Act 2015, section 49

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of cabinet refacing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare cabinet installers before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask cabinet installers before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Cabinet refacing permits and local rules

Some cabinet refacing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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