Flooring Contractors
Flooring Contractors near you
Flooring contractors supply and fit the finished floor and, just as importantly, prepare what is underneath it. British homes present two very different starting points. Older terraced and semi-detached houses often have suspended timber floors over a ventilated void on the ground floor, while post-war and modern homes usually have a solid concrete slab with a screed over it. The covering that suits one may fail on the other.
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Two issues define flooring work in this country. The first is moisture from the ground. Building regulations in England, through Approved Document C, require floors next to the ground to resist the passage of ground moisture, and Scotland sets its own standard to the same end under the Building (Scotland) Regulations 2004. Older solid floors predate those expectations and may have no effective damp-proof membrane at all, which is why an impermeable covering laid on an untested slab can trap moisture and lift.
The second is asbestos. The Health and Safety Executive states that asbestos may be present in any domestic or commercial building built or refurbished before the year 2000, and old floor finishes are one of the classic places it hides: thermoplastic and vinyl tiles, the bitumen adhesive holding them down, backing papers and some screed materials. Lifting an old floor is therefore a moment to check rather than to attack with a scraper.
Floor coverings used in British homes and where each one suits
- Solid hardwood: can be sanded and refinished repeatedly, but moves most with changes in humidity and is the least tolerant of damp subfloors.
- Engineered wood: a real wood wear layer on a stable core, which copes better with underfloor heating and with the humidity swings of a centrally heated house.
- Laminate: a printed wear layer over a board core, hard-wearing and quick to fit, but not repairable in the way wood is and vulnerable to standing water at joints.
- Luxury vinyl tile and sheet vinyl: waterproof on the surface and well suited to kitchens, utility rooms and bathrooms, but very sensitive to an uneven or damp subfloor, which telegraphs through.
- Carpet: warm and quiet, fitted over underlay and gripper rods, with the underlay choice affecting both comfort and how long the carpet lasts.
- Ceramic and porcelain tile: durable and waterproof, but they need a rigid, flat base, so a springy timber floor usually needs overboarding or a decoupling layer first.
- Natural stone: heavy and often requiring sealing, with weight and substrate strength worth checking before it is specified on a suspended floor.
Damp, screed moisture and solid floors: the British subfloor problem
Approved Document C, which applies in England, covers site preparation and resistance to contaminants and moisture and includes the resistance to moisture of floors, walls and roofs; floors next to the ground are expected to resist the passage of ground moisture to their upper surface. Scotland has an equivalent mandatory standard in its own technical handbook: every building must be designed and constructed so that there will not be a threat to the building or the health of the occupants as a result of moisture penetration from the ground, with specific guidance for ground-supported concrete, suspended concrete and suspended timber floors.
Those requirements are why modern floors have a damp-proof membrane, and why older solid floors are the problem. A Victorian house with a concrete floor poured decades ago may have no membrane, or one that has failed. Lay an impermeable covering such as vinyl or a glued wood floor over it and the moisture that used to evaporate slowly through a breathable finish now collects under the new floor instead, lifting adhesive and cupping boards.
A new or recently repaired screed has the same issue for a different reason: the water used to lay it has to leave before an impermeable covering seals it in. A competent fitter tests the subfloor rather than guessing, records the result and either waits or specifies a surface damp-proof membrane before laying. If a quote for a kitchen or a ground-floor room contains no mention of checking the subfloor for moisture, that is the question to ask before you sign anything.
Asbestos under an old floor: what the law expects before anything is lifted
HSE lists floor finishes among the places asbestos was used: asbestos was added to PVC and thermoplastic floor tiles, stair nosings, sheet materials and screed materials, and old tiles can be hidden under carpet. Vinyl tiles can also be backed with asbestos paper and stuck down with bitumen adhesive. Since asbestos may be present in any building built or refurbished before the year 2000, and it was only banned in 1999, any old tiled or bitumen-bedded floor in an older property should be treated as suspect until it is identified.
The law does not leave this to judgement on the day. HSE's instruction is to stop work immediately, confirm what the material is or assume it is asbestos, and carry out a risk assessment that determines whether the work requires a licensed contractor. Removing asbestos-containing thermoplastic and vinyl floor tiles, and work on bitumen products such as damp-proofing coatings, generally falls within non-licensed work, but that is not a free pass: non-licensed work still requires a risk assessment, appropriate controls and workers with the correct level of information, instruction and training. What it never permits is dry sanding, grinding or smashing up old tiles to get them off, or a homeowner doing it at the weekend to save the fitter a day.
How a flooring installation runs, from survey to skirting boards
- Survey: the fitter identifies whether the floor is suspended timber or solid, checks levels and flatness, looks for damp and asks about the age of the property and any existing old tiles.
- Subfloor preparation: lifting the old covering, dealing with squeaks and loose boards, overboarding a timber floor or applying levelling compound to a slab.
- Moisture testing on any ground-bearing or newly screeded floor, before an impermeable covering is committed to.
- Acclimatisation: wood and some resilient coverings are left in the room to reach its temperature and humidity before fitting.
- Underlay or adhesive, then laying, with expansion gaps left around the perimeter of floating floors so the floor can move without buckling.
- Finishing: refitting or replacing skirting boards, fitting beading, thresholds and stair nosings, and sealing perimeters in wet areas.
- Handover: leftover stock kept for repairs, plus written care instructions and any guarantee paperwork.
Subfloor materials: screed, boards, levelling compound and membranes
Most of the money in a good flooring job that you will never see goes into the base. On a solid floor, a levelling compound corrects small undulations so a vinyl or tile finish does not read every hollow; where ground moisture is a risk and the original membrane cannot be relied on, a surface damp-proof membrane or a moisture-suppressant system is applied first. On timber floors, loose boards are screwed down and a plywood or hardboard overlay creates a flat, stable surface for thin coverings.
Underlay is not an afterthought either. Carpet underlay affects comfort and how long the carpet keeps its appearance; underlay for floating wood and laminate floors affects sound transfer and can incorporate a moisture barrier. In flats, the sound performance of the whole floor build-up is often the deciding factor, and lease terms may specify what is required, so check before choosing a hard floor over a neighbour.
Caring for a new floor through British winters and wet doorways
- Put a barrier mat at every external door: grit tracked in from a wet path is the main cause of scratching on wood, laminate and vinyl.
- Clean with the method the manufacturer specifies, and avoid soaking wood or laminate, since water at the joints causes swelling that cannot be sanded out.
- Expect small gaps to open in solid wood in winter when the heating is on and humidity drops, and to close again in summer.
- Use felt pads under furniture legs, and lift rather than drag appliances across a resilient floor.
- Deal with leaks under washing machines and dishwashers quickly, because water spreads sideways under a fitted floor before it shows.
- Keep spare boards, tiles or carpet from the original batch, since a later batch rarely matches exactly.
Choosing a floor by room, underfloor heating and how LokalMatch fits in
Match the covering to the room's moisture and traffic rather than to a showroom sample. Kitchens, utility rooms, bathrooms and porches suit waterproof surfaces with sealed perimeters. Living rooms and bedrooms can take wood or carpet. Conservatories and garden rooms swing furthest in temperature and humidity, so stable engineered products behave better than solid wood. Over underfloor heating, check that the specific product is approved for it and that the fitter follows the commissioning sequence for bringing the heating up before and after laying.
If you want to compare fitters, LokalMatch takes the details of your flooring job once, including room sizes, whether the floor is solid or timber and anything you know about an old tiled floor underneath, and matched flooring contractors in your postcode area get in touch. Pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not fit floors, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so compare how each one proposes to prepare and test the subfloor, not just the price of the covering.
Flooring Contractors: frequently asked questions
Why does it matter whether my floor is concrete or timber?
It decides both the preparation and the range of suitable coverings. A solid ground floor has to resist moisture from the ground, which regulations in England and Scotland both require of new floors, so an older slab may need testing and possibly a surface damp-proof membrane before an impermeable covering goes down. A suspended timber floor moves and flexes instead, so rigid finishes such as tile usually need overboarding or a decoupling layer, and the ventilation of the void beneath must not be blocked.
Could my old vinyl floor tiles contain asbestos?
In a property built or refurbished before the year 2000, yes, they could. HSE states that asbestos was added to PVC and thermoplastic floor tiles, stair nosings, sheet materials and screed materials, and that vinyl tiles may have asbestos paper backing and bitumen adhesive. Do not sand, grind or break them up to find out. Stop, get the material identified or assume it is asbestos, and have a risk assessment done; some removal is non-licensed work but still needs proper controls and trained operatives.
How long should a new screed dry before flooring goes down?
Long enough to pass a moisture test, which depends on the thickness, the mix, the ventilation and the temperature rather than on a fixed number of days. The right answer from a fitter is that they will test the subfloor and either wait or install a suitable surface damp-proof membrane, and that they will record the result. Laying an impermeable covering over a screed that is still giving up water is one of the most common causes of a floor failing within its first year.
Can I have wood flooring in a kitchen?
It is possible, but engineered wood copes far better than solid wood with the humidity changes and occasional spills, and the perimeter and any appliance recesses need to be sealed properly. Many households choose a waterproof vinyl or tile finish for the kitchen and continue wood elsewhere with a threshold between. Whatever you choose, the subfloor needs checking for moisture first if it is a ground-floor slab.
Do skirting boards have to come off to fit a new floor?
Not always. Floating floors need an expansion gap at the perimeter, which can be covered either by removing and refitting the skirting boards or by fitting beading against them. Removing them gives a neater result but risks damaging decoration, and it is a decision worth making before work starts so the quote reflects it, along with who will redecorate afterwards.
Sources
- GOV.UK: Approved Document C - site preparation and resistance to contaminants and moisture (England)
- Scottish Government: Building standards technical handbook 2022 domestic, 3.4 Moisture from the ground
- HSE: Locations of asbestos, including floor tiles and bitumen products
- HSE: Non-licensed work with asbestos
- HSE: Asbestos frequently asked questions
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
What flooring contractors can help with
Common jobs homeowners hire flooring contractors for:
- Hardwood FlooringInstall and repair solid hardwood floors.
- Hardwood RefinishingSand, stain and refinish worn hardwood floors.
- Engineered HardwoodInstall engineered hardwood floors, including over concrete.
- Laminate FlooringInstall and replace laminate floors.
- Vinyl FlooringInstall sheet vinyl and vinyl tile floors.
- Luxury Vinyl PlankInstall luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and tile (LVT) floors.
- Carpet InstallationInstall new carpet in rooms and on stairs.
- Carpet RepairPatch, re-stretch and repair seams in carpet.
- Tile InstallationInstall floor and wall tile, backsplashes and shower tile.
- Tile RepairReplace cracked, loose or broken tiles.
- Grout RepairRegrout and seal tile floors, walls and showers.
- Epoxy FlooringApply epoxy and polyaspartic coatings to concrete floors.
- Garage FlooringCoat, tile or resurface garage floors.
- Concrete FloorsPolish, stain or resurface interior concrete floors.
- Floor LevellingLevel uneven or sagging floors before new flooring goes down.
- Heated FloorsInstall electric heating mats under tile and other flooring.
- Stair FlooringCover or replace stair treads, risers and nosings.
- Skirting BoardsInstall baseboards, quarter round and shoe moulding.
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What affects the cost of flooring
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare flooring contractors before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Flooring permits and local rules
Some flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about flooring
- ✦
Hardwood Flooring guide
Hardwood flooring in Britain means one of three jobs: laying new solid boards, laying engineered boards, or bringing an original timber floor back into use. The housing stock decides which is sensible.
Read guide - ✦
Hardwood Refinishing guide
Refinishing takes a timber floor you already own back to bare wood and puts a new finish on it. It is the reason old floors in British houses outlive several generations of carpet: a board that is 18mm of solid oak or…
Read guide - ✦
Engineered Hardwood guide
An engineered board is a sandwich: a real timber wear layer on top, a cross-laid core of plywood or a dense fibreboard beneath it, and usually a balancing veneer on the back. The cross-lamination is the whole point.
Read guide
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