Skirting Boards
Skirting Boards near you
Skirting board is the strip of timber or board that closes the joint between the wall and the floor, and in a British house it does more work than it gets credit for. It hides the ragged edge of the plaster and the expansion gap of a floating floor, it takes the knocks from feet, furniture and vacuum cleaners, and on a period property its profile is a large part of what makes the room look right. Architrave around doors, dado and picture rails and window boards are usually quoted with it, since they are the same trade and the same material.
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The job divides sharply into two. Replacing like for like in a modern house is straightforward joinery: measure, cut, scribe the internal corners, mitre the external ones, fix, fill and decorate. Matching original mouldings in a Victorian or Edwardian house is closer to reproduction work, because the profiles used then are deeper and more elaborate than anything a merchant stocks, and matching them means either finding a supplier who runs that pattern or having a knife ground to a section taken from your own house.
The decisions worth making before anyone starts are material, height and method. Material governs how the trim behaves when the house is heated and when the floor is washed. Height governs whether the room reads as original or renovated. Method governs how much mess the work makes, because cutting and sanding MDF and hardwood inside an occupied house creates a dust with a legal exposure limit attached to it.
MDF, softwood and hardwood skirting, and how each behaves in a British house
- Primed MDF: stable, straight, cheap and the default for painted skirting, but it swells irreversibly if it gets wet, which is why it is the wrong choice against a floor that floods or a wall that is damp.
- Softwood, usually redwood: takes a paint finish well, can be bought in long lengths and is easy to scribe, but it moves with humidity and knots will bleed through emulsion unless they are sealed.
- Hardwood: used where the trim is stained or oiled rather than painted, harder wearing at skirting height and considerably harder on saw blades and on the lungs.
- Moisture resistant MDF: worth specifying in kitchens, utility rooms and bathrooms, where an ordinary board will eventually swell at the bottom edge.
- Reclaimed timber skirting: the honest way to match a period room, though it arrives painted, nail-ridden and rarely in the lengths you need.
- Machined to match: a joinery shop can grind a cutter to a profile taken from a surviving length of your own skirting, which is the only exact answer in a house with unusual mouldings.
- Modern tall skirting in a period style: sold widely, but the profile and the height both need checking against what is already in the house, or the room ends up looking half restored.
Profiles you will be offered, and what they signal about the room
- Torus: the rounded bead profile that is the most common painted skirting in post-war British housing, and the safest match in an ordinary modern room.
- Ogee: the double curve, slightly more formal, and often paired with matching architrave in nineteen-thirties and later houses.
- Chamfered and rounded, sometimes called pencil round: plain, cheap and the usual choice in new build and in rented flats.
- Bullnose: a single rounded top edge, unobtrusive and easy to clean, which suits a contemporary interior with no other mouldings.
- Lambs tongue and other Victorian sections: deeper, taller and more elaborate, usually in softwood and usually painted, and rarely matched by anything off the shelf.
- Square edge with a separate moulding planted on top: how very tall period skirting was often built up, and how it can be rebuilt today.
- Shadow gap or skirting-free detailing: not a profile at all but a plastering detail, and it commits the walls and floor to a level of accuracy ordinary skirting forgives.
Wood dust: the health risk that comes with cutting trim indoors
Cutting, routing and sanding skirting produces wood dust, and wood dust has legal exposure limits in Great Britain. HSE states that the workplace exposure limit for hardwood dust is 3mg per cubic metre based on an 8-hour time-weighted average, and that the limit for softwood dust is 5mg per cubic metre on the same basis. Where hardwood and softwood dusts are mixed, HSE says the hardwood limit of 3mg per cubic metre applies to all the wood dust in that mixture, so a carpenter working oak and redwood on the same day is working to the lower figure.
The reason for the limits is not nuisance. HSE states that wood dust can cause serious health problems including asthma, that carpenters and joiners face a risk of asthma four times greater than other British workers, that hardwood dust can cause cancer, particularly of the nose, and that settled dust contains the fine particles most likely to damage the lungs. That last point is the one homeowners should register: the visible pile on the floor is the harmless part, and the dangerous fraction is what is still in the air and on the surfaces hours later.
HSE is also blunt about masks. Its construction dust guidance explains that a workplace exposure limit is the legal maximum after the right controls have been used, not a target, and that unless there are real problems doing so you should not just rely on a mask for high risk tasks, because such tasks can produce more dust than a mask can cope with and because a mask protects only the person wearing it. On a domestic trim job that translates into a simple expectation: cutting done outside or in a sheeted-off area, a saw and sander connected to on-tool extraction with a suitable vacuum, and the room vacuumed rather than swept at the end of the day.
How skirting is fitted, and why the corners take the time
Removing the old skirting is the part that damages a house if it is rushed. Old board is usually nailed into timber grounds or straight into the plaster, and levering it off without first cutting the paint line along the top will pull the surface of the plaster away with it. A careful joiner scores the joint, works a bolster and a flat bar behind the board with a packer against the wall, and takes it off in whole lengths if any of it is going to be reused or copied.
Setting out comes next. The walls in an older British house are neither straight nor plumb, and the floor is rarely level, so the fitter works out where the long runs go, where the joints will land, and which corners will be scribed. Internal corners are scribed rather than mitred, which means cutting one board square into the corner and shaping the end of the second board to the profile of the first, because a scribed joint stays closed when the timber moves and a mitred one opens. External corners are mitred, and on an out-of-square corner the angle is taken from the wall rather than assumed to be 45 degrees.
Fixing depends on what is behind the plaster. Into studwork the board is screwed or nailed into the studs; into masonry it is fixed with screws into plugs or with a grab adhesive plus mechanical fixings; and on an uneven wall it is packed so that the top edge stays straight rather than following every hollow. Then the joints and fixing heads are filled, the top edge is caulked to the wall where the gap is fine and filled properly where it is not, and the trim is sanded and decorated. Ask whether decoration is included, because a fitted but unpainted skirting looks unfinished and MDF in particular needs its cut ends sealed.
Why skirting fails, and what it is telling you about the room
- A gap opening along the top edge usually means the wall or the board has moved, or that caulk was used to bridge a gap far too wide for it.
- A gap along the bottom edge often follows a new floor covering or a floor that has settled, and it is closed with a scotia or quadrant rather than by refixing the board.
- Swelling and a furry, blown bottom edge on MDF is water, whether from a leak, a mop or condensation running down a cold wall.
- Paint peeling or blistering low down on the skirting in one spot is worth investigating as damp rather than repainting, since the trim is often the first place a wall problem shows.
- Rot in softwood skirting behind a fitted unit or under a window is generally the end of a longer story about a leak that has been running quietly.
- Splits along the grain and popped nails are movement, and they come back unless the board is refixed rather than refilled.
- Skirting that stands proud of the plaster at every fixing has been pulled tight onto a wall that was never packed out, and it will keep cracking at the top edge.
Original mouldings, listed buildings and rented flats
Original joinery is one of the things heritage protection is actually about, so in a listed building the decision to strip out and replace skirting, architrave, dado rails and window boards is not purely yours. Interiors are covered as well as exteriors, and the consent regime under the Planning (Listed Buildings and Conservation Areas) Act 1990 is dealt with in detail elsewhere on this site; the practical instruction here is narrow. Do not let anybody skip a length of original moulding before you have spoken to the local planning authority's conservation officer, and keep a surviving section even if the rest has to go, because it is the pattern from which a match is made.
Leasehold flats carry a different constraint, which is contractual rather than statutory. Many leases require the landlord's consent for alterations to the demised premises and some are specific about floor finishes and internal joinery, so a skirting replacement that goes hand in hand with a new hard floor can engage a clause the leaseholder has never read. Check the lease before the trim is ordered rather than after it is fitted.
There is one more thing to raise at quoting stage in a house built before 1992, and it belongs to the decorator as much as the joiner. Old paint layers on skirting can contain lead, and the risk comes from removing or sanding that paint rather than from leaving it alone. The detail of how old paint should and should not be taken back is covered in the painting guides on this site, and the point to carry here is simply that stripping original skirting in an old house is a question to ask before the sander comes out.
Keeping trim looking right between decorations
- Wipe skirting with a barely damp cloth rather than a wet one, and never leave standing water against an MDF bottom edge.
- Touch up chips promptly in kitchens and hallways, since a bare edge on MDF absorbs moisture and swells from that point.
- Reseal the cut ends of any MDF board that is trimmed later, for example when a new floor goes in.
- Fill and repaint the joint at the top edge when it opens, rather than laying more caulk over old caulk that has already failed.
- Check the skirting behind and beside appliances, sinks and radiators once a year, because that is where a slow leak shows first.
- Keep vacuum cleaner heads and furniture feet off painted trim where you can: most of the damage at that height is mechanical.
- Photograph and keep a short offcut of any period profile, so that a future repair can be matched without guesswork.
What drives a skirting board quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
Trim is quoted on the metre run, but the metres are the least interesting part of the number. What actually moves it is the count of corners, because every internal corner is scribed and every external one mitred to the real angle of the wall; the height and the profile, since tall period sections cost more per metre and a bespoke profile has to be machined; and the state of the walls, because a wall that needs packing or making good after the old board comes off adds work that has nothing to do with joinery. Removing and disposing of the old trim, working around radiator pipes and fitted units, sealing and decorating, and matching a moulding that nobody stocks are the other variables, and they are the ones most often left out of the cheapest quotation.
Getting comparable quotes is what LokalMatch is for. Describe the job once with your postcode, saying which rooms, roughly how many metres, what the existing trim is and whether it must be matched, and joiners and carpenters working in your area get in touch. Homeowners pay nothing to post a request; the trades pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the joinery, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend the people who respond, so checking what is included, how the dust will be controlled and who is decorating afterwards is down to you.
Skirting Boards: frequently asked questions
Is MDF or timber better for skirting boards?
For painted skirting in a dry room, primed MDF is stable, straight and takes a flat finish that timber knots make harder to achieve. Softwood is easier to scribe by hand, copes better with humidity and can be repaired, but knots need sealing or they bleed through. Anywhere water is a possibility, such as a kitchen, utility room or bathroom, use a moisture resistant board or timber rather than standard MDF, because ordinary MDF swells irreversibly once its bottom edge gets wet.
How much dust will fitting new skirting make?
More than people expect, which is why it is worth asking how it will be controlled. HSE sets a workplace exposure limit of 3mg per cubic metre for hardwood dust and 5mg per cubic metre for softwood dust, both as 8-hour time-weighted averages, and applies the hardwood figure to the whole mixture where the two are mixed. It also says a limit is the legal maximum after controls have been used and that you should not simply rely on a mask for high risk tasks. In a house that means cutting outside or in a sheeted area, on-tool extraction, and vacuuming rather than sweeping.
Can new skirting be fitted without taking up the floor?
Usually yes, and in most rooms it should be. The board sits on the floor finish, so a new skirting can be fitted after the floor without disturbing it, and a floating floor still needs its expansion gap left open beneath the trim rather than pinned through. Where the new board is shorter than the old one it may leave a mark or a gap at the bottom, which is normally closed with a scotia or quadrant moulding rather than by trying to bed the skirting down into the floor.
Why do fitters scribe internal corners instead of mitring them?
Because timber moves and walls are not square. A mitred internal corner relies on both boards staying exactly where they were cut, and it opens into a visible black line as soon as anything shrinks or shifts. A scribe cuts the end of the second board to the profile of the first, so the joint closes onto a face rather than onto an edge and stays looking closed when the trim moves. External corners are still mitred, but the angle should be taken from the actual corner rather than assumed to be a right angle.
My house is listed. Can I replace the skirting?
Ask the local planning authority's conservation officer before anything is removed. Listed building protection covers interiors as well as exteriors, and original mouldings are exactly the sort of detail it exists to protect; the consent regime is set out in detail in the joinery and decorating guides on this site. Whatever the answer, keep a full length of the original profile. It is the only reliable pattern for having a cutter ground to match, and once the last section is skipped nobody can reproduce the room accurately.
Should the skirting be painted before or after it is fitted?
Prime and give it a first coat before fitting where you can, especially with MDF, because the back and the cut ends are far easier to seal on a trestle than in place. Fitting, filling and caulking then happen, and the final coat goes on afterwards so that fixing heads, filled joints and the caulked top edge disappear. Confirm who is doing which stage: plenty of joinery quotes end at fitting and filling, and the decorating is a separate trade and a separate price.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of baseboard
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Floor area and the number of rooms
- Type and grade of flooring
- Removal of the existing floor
- Subfloor repairs or levelling
- Stairs, angles and custom cuts
- Trim, transitions and baseboards
How to compare finish carpenters before you hire
- Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
- Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
- Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
- Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
- Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.
Questions to ask finish carpenters before you hire
- Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
- How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
- Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
- Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
- Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
- Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?
Baseboard permits and local rules
Some baseboard work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about baseboard
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Flooring Contractors guide
Flooring contractors supply and fit the finished floor and, just as importantly, prepare what is underneath it. British homes present two very different starting points.
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Hardwood Flooring guide
Hardwood flooring in Britain means one of three jobs: laying new solid boards, laying engineered boards, or bringing an original timber floor back into use. The housing stock decides which is sensible.
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Hardwood Refinishing guide
Refinishing takes a timber floor you already own back to bare wood and puts a new finish on it. It is the reason old floors in British houses outlive several generations of carpet: a board that is 18mm of solid oak or…
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