Concrete Repair
Concrete Repair near you
Concrete repair covers a wide spread of jobs that share one question: is the surface broken, or is something behind the surface breaking it. A crumbling garage floor, a spalled step, a cracked garden path, a rusting lintel over a window, a balcony soffit dropping flakes and a drive slab that has split across its width all get called concrete repair, and the right answer is different for each. Patching without answering the question is the most common wasted spend in this trade, because a patch bonded to concrete that is still deteriorating will lift within a couple of winters.
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The most frequent underlying cause in British conditions is reinforcement corroding inside the concrete. Steel expands as it rusts, and because it is cast into a material that has almost no tensile strength, that expansion cracks the concrete from the inside and pushes the surface off in plates. Where you can see rust-coloured staining, a crack that follows a straight line at a constant depth, or a flake that has come away to reveal bright orange steel, the repair has to deal with the steel and not just the hole above it.
A smaller number of concrete problems are not repairs at all. Some lightweight precast concrete used in British buildings between the mid-1960s and the mid-1980s is now treated as a structural risk in its own right, and the correct response to finding it is a structural engineer rather than a filler. Knowing which category you are in is the whole value of a first inspection.
What the damage is telling you before anyone quotes
- Rust-coloured staining running out of a crack: the reinforcement inside is corroding and the crack is the result, not the cause.
- Flakes and plates coming off a surface, known as spalling, often with bright orange steel visible in the crater underneath.
- A crack that runs in a straight line at a constant distance from an edge, which usually traces a reinforcing bar rather than a random stress.
- Crazing, a fine map of shallow surface cracks, which is usually a surface-finishing defect rather than a structural one.
- A hollow sound when a surface is tapped with a hammer, meaning the concrete above the steel has already lost its bond and will come off.
- Dusting: a floor that never stops producing fine grey powder underfoot, which is a weak surface layer rather than a weak slab.
- Steps or slabs that rock, or a step that has dropped relative to its neighbour, which is a ground problem showing up in the concrete.
- Water always emerging from the same place after rain, since concrete deterioration in Britain almost always follows the water.
The repairs a concrete contractor actually carries out
- Patch repair to a spalled area: cutting back to sound concrete, cleaning and treating exposed steel, then rebuilding with a repair mortar.
- Crack repair: routing and sealing a moving crack, or resin injecting a dormant one where the aim is to restore continuity rather than to hide a line.
- Surface repair to a worn or dusting floor: mechanical preparation followed by a bonded screed, an overlay or a resin coating chosen for the traffic it takes.
- Edge and nosing rebuilds on steps and thresholds, which are the highest-wear and highest-risk parts of any external concrete.
- Re-forming small sections of path, kerb or slab where the base is sound and only the top has failed.
- Waterproofing and drainage work alongside the repair, since the repair only lasts as long as the water problem that caused it stays fixed.
- Full break-out and recast, which is the honest answer where the deterioration is widespread rather than local.
When patching is sensible and when it is throwing money away
Patching earns its keep where the defect is local and the cause has stopped. A single spalled corner on an otherwise sound step, damage from an impact, a hole left by a removed fixing, or a small area of surface breakdown at a door threshold are all good candidates, provided the surrounding concrete rings solid when it is tapped and the steel, if any is exposed, is treated before the mortar goes on.
Patching is the wrong answer where the deterioration is widespread or still active. If tapping the surface finds hollow areas well beyond the visible damage, if several separate craters have opened along the same line, or if the concrete is saturated because water keeps arriving from a failed gutter, a blocked gully or a raised garden, then patch repairs will simply move the failure a few centimetres outwards each time. The same is true of a slab that has broken because the ground under it has moved: rebuilding the top of it leaves the cause entirely untouched.
The most useful thing you can ask a contractor is what they think the mechanism is, what evidence supports that, and what they expect to happen to the concrete next to their repair. Someone who has sounded the surface, looked for the water, and can say where they intend to cut back to is giving a different kind of answer from someone who has quoted a number of square metres of filler.
RAAC: the concrete problem that is not a repair job
Reinforced autoclaved aerated concrete, usually shortened to RAAC, is described by HSE as a lightweight form of precast concrete commonly used in buildings in the United Kingdom between the mid-1960s and the mid-1980s, mainly in roofs and occasionally in floors and walls. HSE states plainly that it is less durable than traditional concrete and that there have been problems as a result which could have significant safety consequences, namely that it is liable to collapse.
This matters to homeowners because RAAC turns up in housing as well as in schools and public buildings, particularly in flat-roofed properties of that period. It looks different from ordinary concrete: pale, with a bubbly, aerated texture rather than visible stones, and soft enough that a screw or nail can be pressed into the surface. Panels may bow or sag, and from below you may see a gap opening between two adjacent panels.
The response is not a contractor with a bag of repair mortar. HSE's guidance to anyone responsible for the management, maintenance or alteration of buildings is to establish whether the building contains RAAC and then take steps to manage and control the risk, and it points to a competent structural engineer to assess it and develop a management plan. If a surveyor, a builder or a neighbour raises RAAC in a property of that age, treat it as a structural engineering question and stop anybody drilling, loading or cutting into the panels in the meantime.
Wet concrete burns, and the reason a repair crew wears gloves
Cement is the part of a concrete repair that injures people, and the injuries are worse than most homeowners imagine. HSE states that a serious burn or ulcer can rapidly develop if wet cement is trapped against the skin, and that in extreme cases these burns may need a skin graft or cause a limb to be amputated. The classic domestic version is kneeling in fresh concrete in ordinary trousers, or a boot filling with wet mix and being left on for the rest of the afternoon, because cement burns are not immediately painful the way a heat burn is.
There are two slower effects as well. HSE says cement can abrade the skin and cause irritant contact dermatitis, and that cement also contains hexavalent chromium, or chromate, which can cause allergic contact dermatitis through sensitisation. It notes that manufacturers add an ingredient to reduce that risk but that the addition is only effective for a limited period, after which chromium levels may increase again. That is why bagged cement carries a shelf life and why old stock in the back of a garage is not the bargain it appears to be.
None of this makes a repair a job to avoid, but it does set the standard you should see on site. Waterproof gloves and covered arms and legs, knee protection that does not soak through, boots that are tucked into rather than filled by the mix, and washing water available on site rather than at the end of the day. A crew mixing repair mortar barehanded in your garage is telling you something about how the rest of the job will be run.
How a sound patch repair is carried out
The first stage is defining the repair area, which is almost always larger than the visible damage. The surface is tapped to find the hollow, debonded concrete around the crater, and the edges of the repair are cut to a square shoulder rather than feathered, because a feathered edge has no thickness at its perimeter and breaks away. Cutting is where the dust risk sits, and it should be done with water suppression or on-tool extraction rather than dry.
Then the steel is dealt with. Corroded reinforcement is exposed all the way around, back to sound bright metal beyond the corrosion, cleaned, and treated or replaced as the specification requires. Leaving the back face of a bar buried in chloride-contaminated concrete is the classic reason a repair fails: the corrosion simply continues behind the new mortar and pushes it off in turn. Where the steel has lost significant section, that is an engineering question rather than a mortar question.
Finally the repair is rebuilt and cured. A bonding treatment or primer is used if the mortar requires it, the repair material is placed in the thicknesses it is designed for rather than in one deep dollop, it is finished to match the surrounding surface, and it is protected while it gains strength. Ask what the curing arrangement is, particularly outdoors between autumn and spring, because a repair left to freeze in the first few days will not reach the strength it was bought for.
What drives a concrete repair quote, and how LokalMatch fits in
The variables here are diagnosis, access and depth rather than area. A quotation moves according to how much sound concrete has to be cut away to reach a solid edge, whether reinforcement is involved and in what condition, whether the repair is at ground level or on a step, a balcony or a wall where working platforms are needed, how much breaking out and cutting is required and how the dust and debris will be controlled, what repair material the specification calls for, and whether the water that caused the damage is being fixed as part of the same job or left for later. A structural engineer's involvement, where the defect turns out to be structural, is a separate and worthwhile cost.
LokalMatch exists to get you those quotations side by side. Post the job once with your postcode, photographs of the damage and what you know about its history, and concrete and building contractors who cover your area will contact you directly. It costs a homeowner nothing to ask, since the professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out repairs, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone who gets in touch, so satisfying yourself about their diagnosis, their insurance and their method statement remains your responsibility.
Concrete Repair: frequently asked questions
Why does my concrete keep flaking off in plates?
That pattern is called spalling, and the usual cause in British conditions is reinforcement corroding inside the concrete. Steel expands as it rusts, and because the surrounding concrete cannot stretch, the expansion forces the cover off in flakes. Rust-coloured staining, a crack running in a straight line at a constant depth, or bright orange steel visible in the crater all point the same way. A repair that fills the hole without exposing, cleaning and treating the steel behind it will be pushed off again by the same mechanism.
Can I just fill a crack in my garage floor myself?
A narrow, dormant crack in a domestic floor slab with no movement and no water coming through is a reasonable thing to seal. What is worth checking first is whether the surface either side rings hollow when tapped, whether the crack has a step across it, and whether it stays wet after rain. A hollow sound means the area will come off later, a step means the ground has moved, and persistent water means the cause is outside the slab. Any of the three makes it a job to have looked at rather than filled.
How dangerous is wet concrete to handle?
More than it looks. HSE states that a serious burn or ulcer can rapidly develop if wet cement is trapped against the skin, and that in extreme cases such burns may need a skin graft or cause a limb to be amputated. It also says cement can abrade the skin and cause irritant contact dermatitis, and that the hexavalent chromium it contains can cause allergic contact dermatitis through sensitisation, with the manufacturers' additive that reduces this being effective only for a limited period. Waterproof gloves, covered skin, proper knee protection and washing water on site are the basics.
What is RAAC and should I worry about it in a house?
HSE describes reinforced autoclaved aerated concrete as a lightweight precast concrete commonly used in buildings in the United Kingdom between the mid-1960s and the mid-1980s, mainly in roofs and occasionally in floors and walls, and says it is less durable than traditional concrete and liable to collapse. It is pale and bubbly rather than stony, soft enough to take an impression from a screw, and panels may bow or show a gap between them. HSE's advice to those responsible for a building is to establish whether it contains RAAC and to involve a competent structural engineer to assess it and develop a management plan.
Why did my last concrete repair fail after one winter?
The three usual reasons are all avoidable. The repair was feathered out to nothing at its edges instead of being cut to a square shoulder, so the thin perimeter broke away. The corroded steel behind it was not exposed all the way round and cleaned back to sound metal, so the corrosion carried on under the new mortar. Or the cause of the damage, normally water arriving from a gutter, a gully or a raised ground level, was never dealt with, so the same process simply started again around the patch.
Should I seal concrete after repairing it?
Sometimes, but only with a product suited to what the surface has to do. A breathable protective treatment can slow water and chloride ingress on external concrete, while a floor coating is chosen for traffic and cleaning rather than for weather. What you should not do is seal a surface that is still wet from below or still fed by an unfixed water source, because a coating over trapped moisture blisters and comes away, taking a layer of your new repair with it. Fix the water first and seal second.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of concrete repair
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and thickness of the area
- Removal of the old surface
- Excavation and base preparation
- Finish, colour or pattern
- Access for equipment and trucks
- Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges
How to compare concrete contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
- Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
- Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
- Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
- Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.
Questions to ask concrete contractors before you hire
- How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
- Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
- How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
- What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?
When to call a pro for concrete repair
- Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
- Water pooling against the foundation after rain
- Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways
Concrete repair permits and local rules
Some concrete repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingFree project calculators
Guides about concrete repair
- ✦
Concrete Contractors guide
Concrete work around a British home means driveways, paths, patios, garage and shed bases, steps, ground floor slabs and foundations.
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Levelling guide
Concrete levelling in a British home usually means one of two quite different jobs. Indoors it means getting a solid ground floor flat and dry enough for a floor covering to be laid on it, whether by grinding high…
Read guide - ✦
Concrete Driveways guide
A concrete drive is an unusual choice in Britain and a sound one in the right circumstances. Most new domestic drives here are block paving, resin bound gravel or tarmac, so a homeowner asking for concrete is normally…
Read guide
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