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Garage Flooring

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A garage floor is the hardest-working slab in most British houses, and the least looked after. It gets a cold, wet car parked on it, road salt dripping off the arches all winter, oil, brake dust, bicycles, freezers, tins of paint and often a washing machine. It is also frequently the original slab, laid without much in the way of a membrane and finished by whoever was on site that day.

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Finishing that slab is worth doing for reasons beyond appearance. A sealed or coated floor stops dust lifting off bare concrete and settling on everything in the garage, it makes spills wipeable instead of permanent, and it stops salt-laden water sitting in the surface and fretting it apart over successive winters.

Two sets of rules sit on this room specifically, and neither applies to the rest of the house. Where the garage is attached to or built into the dwelling, Approved Document B has something precise to say about the floor level and the way it falls. And whatever you keep in there, the Petroleum (Consolidation) Regulations 2014 set out how much petrol may be stored, in what, and where. Both are worth knowing before you decide what the floor is for.

The fall, the step and the fire door: Approved Document B on an attached garage

Approved Document B volume 1, the 2019 edition as amended, deals with an attached or integral garage in a short, very specific pair of paragraphs. If a garage is attached to or forms an integral part of a dwellinghouse, the garage should be separated from the rest of the dwellinghouse by fire resisting construction of at least REI 30. Where a door is provided between the house and the garage, it should meet one of two conditions: either the garage floor should be laid such that it falls away from the door to the outside, to allow fuel spills to flow away, or the door opening should be a minimum of 100mm above the level of the garage floor.

That is a floor requirement disguised as a fire requirement, and it has practical consequences for anyone changing the surface. If your garage relies on the 100mm step rather than the fall, a build-up of coating, tiles or a levelling screed reduces that step, and enough build-up eliminates it. If it relies on the fall, a self-smoothing resin poured level does the same thing in reverse. Before specifying a floor finish in an attached garage, work out which of the two conditions the house currently satisfies, and make sure the new floor still satisfies it.

Approved Document B applies in England, and this paragraph is the English guidance. Wales publishes its own approved documents, Scotland works to the building standards technical handbook rather than approved documents, and Northern Ireland to the technical booklets made under the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012 — where fire safety is Technical Booklet E. If you are outside England, check your own country's document rather than assuming the same numbers.

Petrol on the garage floor: how much the law lets you keep

Storing fuel is the part of garage use that is genuinely regulated, and the thresholds are specific. Under the Petroleum (Consolidation) Regulations 2014, up to 30 litres of petrol may be kept at home without telling anyone. Between 30 and 275 litres you must notify your local Petroleum Enforcement Authority in writing with your name and the address of the premises. Above 275 litres you need a licence from that authority, which can run for up to three years.

The containers are prescribed as well as the quantity. HSE's guidance sets out plastic containers storing up to 10 litres, metal containers storing up to 20 litres, and a single demountable fuel tank of up to 30 litres, with UN-approved containers given as acceptable examples. There are conditions on the storage place too: petrol must not be stored in your living accommodation, it must not be dispensed at the storage place without a licence, an indoor store needs a direct exit to the open air and ventilation to that exit, and sources of ignition or heat capable of igniting the petrol must be kept away.

All of which bears directly on a floor project. A garage that doubles as a fuel store is a place where a spill is foreseeable, which argues for a chemically resistant finish rather than a decorative one, for keeping the fall towards the door where the guidance relies on it, and for thinking hard before installing anything with a pilot light, a heater or an unsealed electrical fitting at low level. If the garage is attached to the house, remember that the wall and door between them are fire-resisting construction and should stay that way.

Coatings, interlocking tiles, mats and screeds for a garage

  • Penetrating sealer: soaks into the concrete, stops dusting and reduces absorption, and changes the look least of any option.
  • Resin coating: a bonded film that resists oil and salt and wipes clean, with the preparation of the slab deciding almost everything about how long it lasts.
  • Interlocking PVC or polypropylene tiles: dry-laid over the existing slab, liftable, tolerant of a slab that is not perfect, and easy to replace in sections.
  • Heavy-duty roll matting: unrolled and trimmed, the quickest option and the easiest to remove, though seams collect grit.
  • Polished or ground concrete: grinding the existing slab back and sealing it, viable only where the slab is sound and thick enough to take it.
  • Levelling or topping screed: used where the slab has fallen badly out of level, with the important caveat that it changes the floor height at the house door.
  • Anti-slip treatment: worth specifying near the door where wet shoes land, since a sealed concrete floor can be very slippery when water is walked in.

Preparing a slab that has had a car on it for thirty years

  • Empty the garage completely, because a floor job worked around a freezer and a workbench is a floor job with two unfinished patches.
  • Identify the oil: old drips soak into concrete and have to be degreased and, where they have penetrated, ground out rather than washed over.
  • Check the slab for movement and cracking, and distinguish a settled shrinkage crack from one that is still opening before anything is laid over it.
  • Establish whether there is a damp-proof membrane under the slab; many older garage floors have none, which rules out some coatings entirely.
  • Grind or shot blast where a bonded finish is planned, controlling the silica dust with water suppression or on-tool extraction as HSE's construction dust guidance expects.
  • Repair spalled edges, the threshold strip at the door and any channel or gully before the finish goes on.
  • Confirm the floor level at the door into the house, so the finished build-up still leaves the step or the fall that Approved Document B relies on.
  • Plan the cure: a car back on a garage floor too early is the most common way a new finish is ruined.

Converting the garage: when a new floor becomes building work

Refinishing a garage floor while it stays a garage is maintenance, not building work. Turning the garage into a room is different. The Planning Portal states that the conversion of a garage, or part of a garage, into habitable space will normally require approval under the building regulations, and lists the elements that have to be considered, including doors and windows, drainage, electrics, external walls, internal walls and roofs. The floor is part of that assessment too, because a garage slab is often uninsulated, may sit below the level of the adjoining rooms, and frequently has no effective damp-proof membrane.

That matters for sequencing. A homeowner who has a smart resin floor laid in the garage and then decides two years later to convert it will usually find the new finish coming straight back up, because the floor build-up has to change to deal with damp and insulation. If a conversion is even a possibility, it is worth deciding before you spend money on a surface. And because the rules are set separately across the UK, check the requirement where you live: building regulations approval in England and Wales, a building warrant in Scotland, and the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012 with their own technical booklets in Northern Ireland.

Dusting, salt damage, hot-tyre pickup and a floor that never dries

  • Dusting, where bare concrete gives off a fine powder that ends up on every shelf, caused by a weak surface layer and cured by sealing rather than sweeping.
  • Surface fretting and pitting from road salt carried in on a car through successive winters, concentrated exactly where the wheels sit.
  • Hot-tyre pickup, where a coating lifts with the tyre after the car has stood, and which points to bonding failure rather than to the product itself.
  • Standing damp on the slab after a wet week, usually a missing damp-proof membrane rather than a leak, and a reason to prefer a breathable or dry-laid finish.
  • Cracks that keep reappearing through a new coating, which is a movement issue in the slab and needs the crack treating rather than covering.
  • A floor that has lost its fall towards the door, which matters on an attached garage where Approved Document B relies on that fall.
  • Condensation on a cold slab in spring, which makes the floor slippery and is a ventilation problem as much as a flooring one.

What changes a garage flooring quote, and how LokalMatch helps you compare

Garage floors are priced on the state of the slab far more than on the area. The variables are how much oil and old coating has to come off, whether grinding or shot blasting is needed, how many cracks and spalled edges need repairing, whether the slab is damp and what that rules out, the finish chosen and its thickness, whether an anti-slip aggregate is included, and how much has to be emptied and stored while the work happens. Tiles and matting are quicker and less dependent on the slab; a bonded coating costs more in preparation but gives a seamless, washable surface.

LokalMatch exists to get that question in front of the right people once. You set out the garage with your postcode — the size, whether it is attached to the house, what the slab is like now and what you want the floor to survive — and garage flooring pros covering your area come back to you directly. There is no charge to a homeowner for posting it; the pros pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not do the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so comparing the preparation each of them proposes is still your call.

Garage Flooring: frequently asked questions

Is there a rule about the level of a garage floor next to the house?

Yes, and it is worth checking before you change the surface. Approved Document B volume 1 says that where a door is provided between a dwellinghouse and an attached or integral garage, either the garage floor should be laid so that it falls away from the door to the outside to allow fuel spills to flow away, or the door opening should be a minimum of 100mm above the garage floor level. The garage should also be separated from the house by fire resisting construction of at least REI 30. A thick new floor build-up can quietly defeat the step, so establish which condition your house relies on first. That is the English guidance; Scotland and Northern Ireland use their own documents.

How much petrol can I keep in my garage?

Up to 30 litres without notifying anyone, under the Petroleum (Consolidation) Regulations 2014. Between 30 and 275 litres you must notify your local Petroleum Enforcement Authority in writing, and above 275 litres you need a licence, which can last up to three years. The containers are specified too: plastic up to 10 litres, metal up to 20 litres, or a single demountable fuel tank up to 30 litres. Petrol must not be stored in your living accommodation, an indoor store needs a direct exit to the open air and ventilation to it, and ignition sources must be kept away.

Should I coat the garage floor or use interlocking tiles?

It depends mostly on the slab. A bonded coating gives a seamless, washable surface with nowhere for dirt to collect, but it requires the slab to be mechanically prepared, dry and sound, and that preparation is most of the cost. Interlocking tiles or roll matting are dry-laid, tolerate a slab that is uneven or slightly damp, can be lifted and replaced in sections, and can go down in a day. If the slab has no damp-proof membrane beneath it, a liftable dry-laid system is usually the safer choice.

My garage floor makes everything dusty. Can that be fixed?

Yes, and it is one of the easiest wins in the room. Dusting comes from a weak surface layer on the concrete that keeps breaking down into fine powder, and sweeping only redistributes it. A penetrating sealer soaks in and binds the surface without changing the look much, while a resin coating removes the problem entirely and adds oil and salt resistance. Either way the floor has to be cleaned and, for a coating, mechanically prepared first, and the dust created by grinding is itself a hazard that HSE expects to be controlled with water suppression or on-tool extraction.

Do I need building regulations approval to lay a new garage floor?

Not for a finish on a floor in a garage that stays a garage. It is different if the garage is being converted into a habitable room: the Planning Portal states that converting a garage, or part of one, into habitable space will normally require approval under the building regulations, and lists elements including doors and windows, drainage, electrics and walls. The floor is part of that too, since garage slabs are often uninsulated and may lack a working damp-proof membrane. In Scotland the equivalent step is a building warrant, and Northern Ireland has its own regulations.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: Approved Document B, fire safety (volume 1, dwellings, paragraphs 5.6 and 5.7 on attached garages)
  2. HSE: storing petrol at home or at a club or association
  3. The Petroleum (Consolidation) Regulations 2014
  4. Planning Portal: garage conversion and the building regulations
  5. Building Control Northern Ireland: technical booklets under the Building Regulations (Northern Ireland) 2012

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of garage flooring

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Floor area and the number of rooms
  • Type and grade of flooring
  • Removal of the existing floor
  • Subfloor repairs or levelling
  • Stairs, angles and custom cuts
  • Trim, transitions and baseboards

How to compare flooring contractors before you hire

  • Choose an installer who works regularly with the type of flooring you want, since hardwood, tile, vinyl and carpet each need different skills.
  • Ask them to check the subfloor and moisture levels before giving a final price.
  • Get a written quote that covers removal of the old floor, subfloor prep, underlay, trim and transitions.
  • Ask whether you or the installer will supply the flooring, and who is responsible for ordering extra for waste.
  • Look at recent work in person or in photos, paying attention to seams, edges and transitions.

Questions to ask flooring contractors before you hire

  • Will you remove and dispose of the old flooring?
  • How will you check and prepare the subfloor?
  • Is my space suitable for this type of flooring, especially in a basement, kitchen or bathroom?
  • Are baseboards, transitions and stair nosings included?
  • Will you move the furniture and appliances, or should I?
  • Does your workmanship warranty cover problems like lifting, gaps or cracked tiles?

Garage flooring permits and local rules

Some garage flooring work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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