Radon Testing & Mitigation
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Radon testing and mitigation means measuring the level of radon gas in a home and, when it's too high, installing a system that keeps it out. Radon is a radioactive gas that forms when uranium breaks down in soil and rock. Health Canada describes it as invisible, odourless and tasteless; it seeps into houses through the foundation and can build up indoors.
It matters because Health Canada calls radon the leading cause of lung cancer in non-smokers, and warns that radon exposure combined with smoking significantly increases the risk. There are no symptoms and nothing to see in the house itself: the only way to know your level is to test. Testing is simple, and when a result is high, proven reduction methods exist.
This page covers how radon gets in, how to test properly, when to hire a certified professional, how mitigation systems work, why retesting matters and what the building code expects in new homes.
How radon gets into Canadian homes, with no warning signs
Radon moves from the soil into any part of a house that touches the ground. Health Canada notes it can be found in almost all Canadian homes, and because it can't be seen or smelled, a dry, well-kept basement tells you nothing about its level. Your neighbour's result is no substitute for testing your own home.
- Cracks in the foundation floor and walls.
- Construction joints, including the joint where the slab meets the wall.
- Gaps around service pipes that pass through the foundation.
- Floor drains and sump pits.
How to test for radon: a long-term test during the heating season
The Canadian guideline is 200 becquerels per cubic metre (Bq/m³). Health Canada recommends a long-term test lasting at least 3 months, and its measurement guide calls for at least 91 days of the test to take place during the heating season.
Put the detector on the lowest level where someone spends more than four hours a day, follow the kit's instructions and leave it in place for the whole test. When the result comes back above the guideline, Health Canada recommends acting to lower it, and the higher the level, the sooner.
DIY radon test kit or a C-NRPP certified professional
Health Canada lists two ways to test: buy a do-it-yourself long-term kit, or hire a radon measurement professional. The Canadian National Radon Proficiency Program (C-NRPP) trains and certifies radon measurement and mitigation professionals and offers an online tool to find one nearby. Health Canada's Take Action on Radon page also points homeowners to long-term kits sold online and to certified professionals.
- A DIY kit: you place the detector, send it to the lab when the test ends and read the report yourself.
- A certified measurement professional: places the device, records the conditions and explains the result, which helps for a sale, a rental unit or a result close to the guideline.
- Either way, choose a long-term test; a reading over a few days can't stand in for the long-term result Health Canada relies on.
- A certified mitigation professional: the person Health Canada recommends hiring when a result is above the guideline.
Radon mitigation methods: sub-slab depressurization, sealing and ventilation
Health Canada's reduction guide describes active sub-slab depressurization as the most effective and reliable technique, and the most common one used by C-NRPP certified professionals. A pipe is installed through the basement floor slab and connected to a fan that runs continuously, drawing radon from beneath the house and releasing it outdoors, where it quickly dilutes.
Other measures play a supporting role. Sealing cracks and openings can help, but the guide says it isn't a standalone technique, since every opening is hard to locate, reach and close for good. A sump can be capped and sealed so it keeps draining water while serving as the suction point, and a heat recovery ventilator brings in outdoor air, which the guide says might reduce radon by 25 to 50 per cent in most homes.
- An assessment of the slab, the sump, the fill under the floor and the best route for the pipe to the outdoors.
- A discharge point outdoors, placed so the radon doesn't come back in through windows, doors or air intakes.
- A pressure indicator on the pipe so you can see that the system is running.
- Sealing of the sump, cracks and the floor-wall joint where needed, as a complement to the fan system.
Retesting after radon mitigation and checking the system over time
Only a new measurement proves a system works. Health Canada's reduction guide recommends a short-term test by a C-NRPP certified professional, started at least 24 hours after the fan is turned on, followed by a long-term three-month test the next fall and winter to confirm the annual average is below the guideline.
- Measure again with a long-term test within two years of activation, then every five years, as the guide recommends.
- Glance at the pressure indicator regularly and call the installer if the reading changes or the fan stops.
- Test again the heating season after renovations that affect the structure or ventilation, such as finishing the basement.
- Keep the test reports and system documents; they are useful when you sell.
Radon in new homes: building code rough-ins and what buyers should check
According to Health Canada's reduction guide, the 2010 National Building Code requires every building to have granular fill under the slab and a rough-in for a future radon reduction system, so one can be completed if testing shows the need. Provinces adopt the national code on their own schedule, so ask your builder or municipality what applies where you live. A rough-in doesn't lower radon until it is connected to a working fan, and a new home still needs its own long-term test once it's lived in.
- Ask the builder where the rough-in pipe is and whether it is capped and labelled.
- Ask whether the soil gas barrier under the slab was sealed at the edges and around penetrations.
- Plan a long-term test during your first heating season in the home.
Radon Testing & Mitigation: frequently asked questions
What radon level is safe?
Health Canada's guideline is 200 Bq/m³, and it recommends lowering any level above it. Lower is always better: the reduction guide says to bring levels as low as practically possible, and the higher the result, the sooner you should act.
Can a short-term radon test replace a long-term one?
Not for deciding whether to mitigate. Health Canada recommends a long-term test of at least 3 months; a short-term test mainly serves to check that a new mitigation system is working.
Will sealing basement cracks fix high radon?
Rarely on its own. Health Canada says sealing isn't a standalone technique; it works best as a complement to sub-slab depressurization.
Can I install a radon mitigation system myself?
Health Canada recommends hiring a C-NRPP certified professional when your level is above the guideline. The job involves cutting through the slab, wiring the fan and placing the discharge correctly, and certified installers follow recognized standards of practice.
My new house has a radon rough-in. Do I still need to test?
Yes. A rough-in doesn't reduce radon by itself; only a long-term test shows whether it should be completed with a fan.
Sources
- About radon — Health Canada
- Government of Canada radon guideline — Health Canada
- Guide for radon measurements in homes — Health Canada
- Testing your home for radon — Health Canada
- Radon: A reduction guide for Canadians — Health Canada
- Canadian National Radon Proficiency Program (C-NRPP)
- Take Action on Radon — Health Canada
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of radon
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Interior or exterior approach
- Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
- Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
- Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
- Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
- Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
- Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed
How to compare radon specialists before you hire
- Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
- Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
- For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
- For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
- Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.
Questions to ask radon specialists before you hire
- Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
- Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
- Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
- How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
- If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?
When to call a pro for radon
- Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
- Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
- Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
- Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.
Radon permits and local rules
Some radon work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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