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Foundation Waterproofing

Foundation Waterproofing near you

Excavate and apply membrane to seal foundation walls. Tell us about your foundation waterproofing project and we’ll help you find local waterproofing contractors who serve your area.

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Foundation waterproofing is exterior work. The soil around the house is dug out down to the footings so the outside face of the foundation walls can be cleaned, repaired and covered with a waterproofing membrane, usually with a drainage board over it and a new perimeter drain at its base. It's the most thorough way to stop water from coming through basement walls, because it deals with the water on the soil side, before it ever reaches the concrete.

Contractors usually recommend it when water comes through several walls or long stretches of wall, when the original coating has broken down after decades in the ground, when the old weeping tile is clogged or crushed, or before a major renovation in an older basement. It also suits houses whose basement is already finished, where the owners would rather not open the interior walls. The trade-off is disruption: heavy equipment, open trenches along the house, and landscaping, walkways and steps to put back afterwards.

This page covers what goes on the wall, the role of the French drain, when the investment makes sense, how the work unfolds and which codes, permits and utility locates apply. For finding the source of a wet basement and comparing interior options, see the basement waterproofing page.

Foundation membranes, dampproofing and drainage boards: what goes on the wall

The National Building Code distinguishes two levels of protection. Dampproofing, a coating that resists moisture moving from the soil into the wall, is required on the outside of foundation walls below ground wherever the ground outside is higher than the basement floor. Waterproofing, a true barrier against water, is required where hydrostatic pressure occurs, meaning where water can build up and push against the foundation. Many older houses were built with only a thin dampproof coating, and exterior foundation waterproofing replaces it with a real membrane.

  • Dampproof coating: the thin bituminous layer sprayed or brushed on many foundations at construction, which slows moisture but can't bridge cracks or resist water under pressure.
  • Sheet membranes: rubberized asphalt or similar sheets, often self-adhered, lapped at the seams and carried down over the joint between the wall and the footing.
  • Liquid-applied membranes: thick coatings rolled or sprayed on to form a seamless layer, handy on irregular stone or block walls.
  • Drainage board: a dimpled plastic sheet laid over the membrane that leaves a gap for water to drop freely to the drain and shields the membrane from stones during backfilling.
  • Exterior insulation: rigid boards that can be added while the wall is exposed, an opportunity to cut heat loss that only comes with this kind of dig.
  • Crack and surface repairs: cracks sealed and the wall patched before the membrane goes on, since a membrane is only as good as the surface beneath it.

The French drain (weeping tile): the other half of exterior foundation waterproofing

A membrane keeps water off the wall; the French drain, or weeping tile, carries it away. It's a perforated pipe laid around the footing, bedded in clean stone and wrapped in filter fabric, that collects water from the soil and sends it to a storm sewer connection or a sump pit. Without a working drain, water collects at the bottom of the wall and finds its way in at the joint between the footing and the wall.

Older houses often have clay tile or early plastic drains that are clogged with silt, invaded by roots or crushed, and some were never connected to anything useful. In parts of Quebec, iron-rich groundwater can also coat drains with a reddish sludge known as ochre. A camera inspection of the existing drain, through a cleanout or the sump pit, shows whether it can be cleaned or has to be replaced, and your municipality decides where a new drain may discharge.

When exterior foundation waterproofing is worth it, and when a smaller fix will do

  • Worth it when water comes through several walls or long stretches of wall rather than at one crack.
  • Worth it when a camera inspection shows the old French drain is crushed, clogged or missing.
  • Worth it before finishing an older basement, or when the basement is already finished and you want to avoid tearing out interior walls.
  • Worth weighing against an interior drain when the wall is hemmed in by a driveway, a neighbouring house, a large deck or mature trees.
  • Probably not needed when water enters at a single crack that can be injected from inside.
  • Probably premature while downspouts, window wells or the slope of the yard still send water toward the wall; fix those and watch a full season first.

How exterior foundation waterproofing is done, step by step

  • Locates and planning: buried gas, electrical, telecom and water lines are marked, and the trench layout, soil storage and equipment access are agreed.
  • Excavation: soil is removed along the wall down to the footing, by machine where access allows and by hand near services, steps and tight spots, with the trench kept stable and safe.
  • Wall preparation: the wall is scraped and washed, loose parging is removed, and cracks and holes are repaired.
  • Membrane and drainage board: the membrane is applied from the footing up to just below finished grade, then covered with the drainage board.
  • New French drain: perforated pipe is laid beside the footing on clean stone, wrapped in filter fabric and connected to the storm connection or sump pit, with a cleanout for future inspection.
  • Backfill: clean stone goes around the drain and suitable fill is placed and compacted in layers, with the final grade shaped to slope away from the house.
  • Restoration: topsoil, sod or plantings are replaced, and paving, steps or walkways are rebuilt if the contract includes them.

Planning a foundation dig: season, access and disruption to your landscaping

Exterior waterproofing is usually done between spring and fall, once the ground has thawed and dried enough to dig safely. Frozen ground makes the work slower and harder, and an open trench caught in a heavy rain fills with water and mud. Contractors' schedules tend to fill up after a wet spring, when many homeowners discover leaks at the same time.

Expect disruption along every wall being done: a trench beside the house, piles of soil on the lawn, machinery on the driveway and sometimes a stair, a patio or a flower bed removed and rebuilt. Shrubs planted against the wall may not survive, and a deck or a concrete step often has to come off to reach the foundation behind it. Ask for the restoration to be spelled out, down to what happens to plantings and paving stones, and sort out access early if the neighbouring house is close, since the crew may need to work on or cross the neighbour's lot.

Permits, building code rules and utility locates for foundation excavation

Many municipalities require a permit for excavation and foundation work, especially when drains are reconnected, exterior insulation is added or the work reaches the sidewalk or street; check with yours before the job starts, and expect the contractor to handle the application.

Nobody should dig next to a house before buried lines are marked. In Quebec, the Régie du bâtiment du Québec tells contractors to file a free locate request with Info-Excavation at least 4 business days before work begins. In Ontario, requesting a locate through Ontario One Call is free and required by law, at least 5 business days before digging. Private lines, such as a gas line to a barbecue or wiring to a shed, aren't covered by these requests and have to be located separately, so tell the contractor about any you know of.

Foundation Waterproofing: frequently asked questions

How deep do contractors dig for exterior foundation waterproofing?

Down to the footing, so the full height of the wall below ground can be covered and the new French drain can sit beside the footing. The depth therefore depends on how deep the basement is on that side of the house.

Can I dig around my foundation myself to save on the job?

No. A deep trench beside a house can collapse, digging too close to or below the footing can undermine the foundation, and buried gas and electrical lines are a serious hazard. Excavation should be done by an experienced crew after the lines have been located.

Should the weeping tile be replaced at the same time?

Usually, yes. With the footing already exposed, replacing an old or doubtful drain costs little extra effort compared with digging again later, and a new membrane without a working drain leaves water sitting against the wall.

Can only one wall of the foundation be waterproofed?

Yes, when the water clearly comes from one side, for example the wall facing a slope or under a problem downspout. The contractor should tie the new membrane and drain properly into the existing walls at each end.

Can exterior foundation waterproofing be done in winter?

Some contractors do dig in winter, but frozen soil, snow and cold make the work slower and some membranes harder to apply. Unless water is causing damage now, most homeowners plan exterior work between spring and fall.

Will exterior waterproofing stop condensation in my basement?

Not on its own. Condensation comes from humid indoor air meeting cool surfaces. Exterior insulation added during the work can keep the walls warmer, but humidity control inside is still what solves it.

Sources

  1. National Building Code of Canada 2020 — National Research Council Canada
  2. Keeping the Heat In, Section 6: Basement insulation — Natural Resources Canada
  3. Excavation work — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
  4. Homeowners: public utility locates — Ontario One Call

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of foundation waterproofing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Interior or exterior approach
  • Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
  • Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
  • Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
  • Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
  • Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
  • Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed

How to compare waterproofing contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
  • Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
  • For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
  • For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
  • Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.

Questions to ask waterproofing contractors before you hire

  • Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
  • Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
  • Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
  • How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
  • If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?

When to call a pro for foundation waterproofing

  • Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
  • Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
  • Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
  • Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.

Foundation waterproofing permits and local rules

Some foundation waterproofing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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