Underpinning
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Deepen or strengthen foundations, often to lower a basement. Tell us about your underpinning project and we’ll help you find local underpinning contractors who serve your area.
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Underpinning means extending a house's foundation downward so the footings bear on soil at a deeper level. In older Canadian neighbourhoods it's most often done to lower a basement: the floor is dug out, and the concrete footings under the walls are deepened one short section at a time so the house stays supported throughout. The same technique is used to repair a foundation that has settled, which our foundation repair page covers; this page is about lowering a basement by choice.
Homeowners usually take this route to gain ceiling height, turning a low, cramped cellar into living space or a secondary suite. It's one of the most demanding jobs a house can go through: the structure temporarily rests on partial foundations, the slab, drainage and waterproofing are rebuilt, and on semi-detached and row houses the work runs along a wall shared with a neighbour.
Expect engineering, a permit and a long, disruptive job. None of it is do-it-yourself work: digging under a footing without the right sequence and support can bring a wall down.
Underpinning vs bench footing: two ways to lower a basement
With full underpinning, new concrete is poured beneath the existing footings so the walls sit on a deeper base, and the new section of wall below the old footing becomes part of the foundation. The basement keeps its full floor area right up to the walls. It takes more engineering and stricter sequencing, since each section briefly leaves a length of wall without soil support until the new concrete is placed and has hardened.
A bench footing leaves the original footings where they are. The floor is dug out inside, stopping short of the walls, and a sloped or stepped band of soil along the perimeter is encased in a concrete ledge, the bench, that keeps the soil under the footings from moving. It generally disturbs less and stays clear of a neighbour's footings, but the ledge takes up floor space around the room and has to be planned into the layout.
Why lower a basement: ceiling height, secondary suites and what to weigh first
Many older homes have basements built for a coal bin and a furnace, not for people: low ceilings, ducts and beams at head height, and a thin floor over bare soil. Lowering the floor makes room for comfortable living space, proper insulation and a new floor assembly, and it's often needed to reach the minimum ceiling height that building codes set for habitable rooms and secondary suites. Planning the finished space, from layout to egress windows, is covered on our basement renovation page.
- Gain: headroom for a family room, bedroom, home office or rental unit.
- Gain: space under the new slab to redo plumbing, drainage and insulation properly.
- Weigh: the groundwater level and the type of soil, which can make deeper digging harder or rule it out.
- Weigh: the depth of the house's sewer connection, which sets how low plumbing can drain by gravity.
- Weigh: whether a lighter option, such as rerouting ducts or choosing a bench footing, would give enough height.
The basement underpinning process, from engineering to the new slab
The crew follows the engineer's drawings and works in short sections in a set pattern, so most of each wall always rests on solid ground.
- Assessment: an engineer checks the footings, soil, walls and neighbouring buildings, then designs the underpinning or the bench.
- Permits and locates: the permit is issued and buried lines are marked before any outside digging.
- Preparation: the basement is emptied, finishes are removed and temporary shoring goes in under beams and posts where needed.
- Excavation: the old slab is broken up and soil is removed, often through a window or wall opening, with small machines or by hand.
- Underpinning: each section under the footing is dug, inspected or tested as required, formed and filled with concrete before the next one is opened.
- Below the floor: new weeping tile, a sump pit if one is planned, lowered drain lines, a stone layer, a moisture and soil-gas barrier and a new concrete slab.
- Closing up: the engineer's final report and the inspections, then waterproofing, insulation and finishing.
Waterproofing and weeping tile when you lower a basement
Lowering the floor brings the living space closer to the groundwater, and the old drainage goes out with the slab. That's why underpinning and basement waterproofing are almost always one project: new weeping tile is laid at the new footing level and connected to a sump pit or to whatever discharge route the municipality accepts, and the walls get a waterproofing treatment from inside or outside. Our weeping tile and foundation waterproofing pages explain the options.
The plumbing drops too. Floor drains and the main building drain are rebuilt at the new depth, and with the floor already open it's the right time to add a backwater valve. Fixtures that end up below the level of the municipal sewer need a pump to lift their wastewater.
Underpinning permits, engineering and utility locates
Lowering a basement by underpinning is structural work and needs a building permit. Toronto, for instance, requires a permit to underpin an existing house, calls for a professional engineer's design and on-site review when new footings go below an adjacent building's footing within the soil's angle of repose, and in every case requires an engineer's testing and reports at the first and last stages of construction. In Quebec, municipalities and Montréal's boroughs issue the permits and set their own document requirements, so ask early whether plans sealed by a member of the Ordre des ingénieurs du Québec are needed. Creating a secondary suite can bring zoning and code requirements of its own.
Where the job includes digging outside, such as a basement entrance or exterior waterproofing, buried lines must be marked before the first shovel goes in: in Quebec, the Régie du bâtiment du Québec asks contractors to file a free Info-Excavation request at least 4 business days ahead, and in Ontario an Ontario One Call locate is free and legally required at least 5 business days before digging. Indoors, the contractor also needs to know where the water and sewer service lines run, since they often come through the basement wall or floor.
Underpinning semi-detached and row houses: party walls and your neighbours
On a detached house with space around it, the neighbours mostly notice the noise and the trucks. On a semi or a row house, the wall you're digging under also holds up the house next door, and deepening its footing affects both homes. Digging below an adjacent building's footing is one of the cases where Toronto requires an engineer's design, and engineers often treat a party wall differently from the other walls, with a bench or a particular sequence.
Rules on notifying an adjoining owner or getting their consent vary by province and city, so ask your permit office and, if the wall is shared, a lawyer or notary what applies to you. Whatever the rules say, talk to your neighbours before the design is final.
- Tell the neighbours early what's planned, roughly when the loud phases will happen and who to call on site.
- Offer a documented pre-construction survey of their basement and the shared wall, with dated photos, so any later crack can be compared.
- Put agreements on access, protection of their property and repair of any damage in writing.
- Check that the contractor's insurance and your own home policy respond to damage to the adjoining house.
Living through basement underpinning: moving out, noise, dust and the season
Many families move out for at least part of the job. The furnace, water entry and electrical panel are often in the basement and may be moved or shut off for stretches, jackhammering and concrete work are loud, and dust travels up through the house however well the stairway is sealed off.
In many cities underpinning goes ahead year-round, but winter adds steps: fresh concrete has to be kept from freezing while it hardens, and outside digging in frozen ground is slower. Ask how cold weather will be handled, and check whether your home insurer needs to be told about major renovations or a house left empty.
Underpinning: frequently asked questions
How much deeper can my basement be lowered?
It depends on the soil, the groundwater level, the condition of the footings, the depth of the sewer connection and any neighbouring foundations. The engineer sets the depth; a contractor who promises a figure before any assessment is guessing.
Is a bench footing as good as underpinning?
Both are engineered methods that work when designed and built properly. A bench is often simpler and leaves the original footings alone, but it takes floor space along the walls; underpinning keeps the full floor area. The engineer decides which suits your house.
Do I need my neighbour's permission to underpin a shared wall?
It depends on where you live and how the wall is owned, so check with your permit office and a lawyer or notary. Even where formal consent isn't required, a written agreement and a pre-construction survey protect both households.
Do I have to move out while the basement is lowered?
Not always, but many families do, at least while services are shut off and the heavy digging and concrete work are under way. Ask the contractor for a schedule of the loud, dusty and shut-off phases so you can plan around them.
Can I dig out my own basement to save money?
No. Digging beside or below a footing without an engineered sequence can make a wall settle or collapse, and the permit depends on engineering review. Leave the excavation and underpinning to a qualified foundation contractor.
Sources
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of underpinning
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Interior or exterior approach
- Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
- Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
- Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
- Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
- Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
- Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed
How to compare underpinning contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
- Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
- For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
- For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
- Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.
Questions to ask underpinning contractors before you hire
- Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
- Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
- Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
- How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
- If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?
When to call a pro for underpinning
- Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
- Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
- Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
- Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.
Underpinning permits and local rules
Some underpinning work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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