Drainage Systems
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A drainage system is everything that moves water away from a house before it reaches the basement: the slope of the yard, the downspouts and where they empty, the swales and surface drains that carry runoff across the lot, and the weeping tile, or French drain, that collects groundwater at the foundation. When one piece fails, the others get overloaded, and the result is water pooling against the walls, a sump pump that never seems to stop or a damp basement every spring.
Drainage contractors, landscapers who specialize in grading and waterproofing companies all do this work, and the right fix depends on where the water comes from. Surface water from the roof and yard is usually handled above ground, by regrading and redirecting downspouts, while groundwater is handled below ground by foundation drains. Many homes need a bit of both.
This page covers the parts of a drainage system, the signs of trouble, lot grading and swales, downspout disconnection and local rules, interior and exterior weeping tile, dry wells and catch basins, and the utility locates required before anyone digs. Membranes and interior waterproofing are covered on the basement and foundation waterproofing pages, and pumps on the sump pump page.
Parts of a home drainage system: grading, downspouts, surface drains and weeping tile
Think of drainage in two layers. Above ground, the goal is to keep rain and snowmelt from soaking into the soil right against the foundation. Below ground, the goal is to collect the water that gets there anyway and send it somewhere harmless. A weakness in one layer usually shows up as extra load on the other, which is why a good drainage contractor walks the whole lot before recommending anything.
- Lot grading: soil shaped to fall away from the house on every side, so surface water runs off instead of toward the walls.
- Swales: shallow, grassed channels that carry runoff along or between lots toward the street, a ditch or an area that can absorb it.
- Downspouts and extensions: roof water carried away from the foundation to a spot where it can soak in or flow off safely.
- Surface drains: gravel trenches with a perforated pipe in soggy parts of the yard, grated channels across driveways and small catch basins in low spots.
- Foundation drain (weeping tile): perforated pipe beside the footing, outside or inside the wall, that collects groundwater and sends it to a storm connection or a sump pit.
- Outlets: a storm sewer connection, a sump pump, a ditch, a dry well or an open outlet on a slope, depending on the lot and local rules.
Signs of poor drainage around your house and yard
- Puddles that linger against the foundation, on walkways or in the same low spots after every rain.
- Soil washed out or mulch scattered below downspouts and roof valleys.
- Ground that slopes toward the house, often after new flower beds, a patio or settled backfill changed the grade.
- Water in window wells, or damp wall bases in the basement after heavy rain or the spring melt.
- A sump pump that runs constantly or keeps cycling long after the rain has stopped.
- Sheets of ice on the driveway or walkway in winter, fed by downspout water.
Lot grading and swales: getting the slope of your yard right
Grading is often the simplest drainage fix and the first one to check. The Government of Canada's flood-prevention guidance says the soil beside the foundation should be about 8 cm (3 in.) higher than the soil 1.5 m (5 ft.) away. It calls a 5% slope ideal, notes that a 2% grade is often considered the minimum, and says paved areas may need a different slope that a professional should set.
Regrading usually means adding and compacting suitable soil against the house, shaping it away from the walls and re-sodding or replanting, while keeping enough clearance between the soil and the siding. Where the yard itself slopes toward the house, a swale can intercept the runoff and lead it around. The same federal guidance says to keep swales and ditches between properties clear, to check with your municipality about permits or inspections before changing a lot's grading, and to look over the grading every spring and fall.
Downspout disconnection and where drainage water may go: municipal rules
Where a drain or downspout empties is regulated in many Canadian cities, because roof and foundation water sent into the sewers can overload them during storms. In Toronto, it is mandatory for all property owners to have their downspouts disconnected from the City's sewer system. The disconnected water has to flow away from the foundation, must not run onto a driveway or sidewalk and must not damage a neighbour's property, and owners can apply for an exemption where disconnecting would be hazardous or isn't technically feasible.
In Montreal, the City says gutter water must be directed to a permeable surface, such as a flower bed or the lawn, at least 1.5 m from the foundations, under its by-law on connections to the water and sewer networks and stormwater management. Connecting a gutter to the foundation drain, or pointing it at a paved surface or the street, is prohibited, and fines apply. Other municipalities set their own rules for downspouts, sump pump discharge and storm sewer connections, so check with yours before redirecting any water, and never send it onto a neighbouring lot.
Interior vs exterior weeping tile: two ways to add or replace a French drain
When the foundation drain is missing, crushed or clogged beyond cleaning, a new one can go outside along the footing or inside under the edge of the basement slab. Both collect groundwater; they differ in where the water is caught and in what the job disturbs. Either way, a camera inspection of the old drain comes first, and the discharge point has to meet local rules. When the new drain feeds a pit, the sump pump page covers the pumping side.
- Exterior drain: laid beside the footing in clean stone and filter fabric during an excavation, catching water before it reaches the wall.
- Interior drain: set in a trench cut along the inside perimeter of the slab and led to a sump pit, with no digging in the yard but more upheaval in the basement.
- Exterior work suits houses with open access around the walls; interior work suits tight lots, finished landscaping and walls hemmed in by driveways or neighbours.
- Cleanouts on either system let it be flushed and inspected later, which matters where soil carries silt or tree roots are close.
Dry wells, catch basins and trench drains: options for surface water
When grading and downspout extensions can't move water far enough, for example on a small lot, a flat yard or a driveway that slopes toward the garage, a contractor may add a collection point and a buried route for the water. Whether each option is allowed, and where it may discharge, depends on your municipality and your soil.
- Dry well: a buried pit filled with stone, or a perforated chamber, that lets collected water soak slowly into the ground, which only works in soil that drains well and well away from the foundation.
- Catch basin: a small grated basin in a low spot of the yard or driveway, with a sump that traps debris before the water enters a buried pipe.
- Trench drain: a narrow grated channel across a driveway, garage entrance or patio that intercepts runoff from paved surfaces.
- Upkeep: grates, basins and cleanouts need clearing of leaves, grit and ice, and a dry well that fills up and stays full is a sign the soil can't absorb enough.
Before digging drainage: utility locates, timing and your neighbours
Almost every drainage job involves digging, and buried gas, power, telecom and water lines can sit closer to the surface than you'd expect, especially near the house where the services come in. In Quebec, the Régie du bâtiment du Québec asks contractors to submit a free locate request to Info-Excavation at least 4 business days before starting. In Ontario, a locate through Ontario One Call is free and legally required, at least 5 business days before any digging. Private lines to a garage, a shed, a pool heater or outdoor lighting aren't covered and have to be found separately.
Grading and yard drains are best done once the ground has thawed and dried, so the soil can be shaped and compacted properly and new sod can root before winter. If the plan moves water near a property line or along a shared swale, talk to the neighbour first: water sent onto their lot leads to disputes, and rules such as Toronto's forbid it from damaging a neighbour's property.
Drainage Systems: frequently asked questions
Is a French drain the same thing as weeping tile?
In Quebec, yes: drain français is the everyday name for the perforated pipe around the footing. Elsewhere in Canada, weeping tile usually means that foundation drain, while French drain often means a gravel trench with a perforated pipe that dries out a soggy part of the yard. Ask which one a contractor means before comparing quotes.
Can I run my downspouts through a buried pipe to the street?
Only if your municipality allows it. Some cities forbid connecting downspouts to the sewer, and Montreal also forbids directing gutter water to the street or a paved surface. Buried downspout pipes can clog and freeze too, so an above-ground extension to a lawn or garden bed is often the better choice where there's room.
Will regrading alone keep water out of my basement?
It can when the water comes from the surface: puddles against the wall, a flower bed sloping toward the house or downspouts emptying at the foundation. It won't fix a high water table, a failed foundation drain or cracked walls, which is why the source should be found first. Either way, grading and downspouts are worth correcting before more invasive work.
Who should I call for a drainage problem: a landscaper, a waterproofing company or a plumber?
It depends on the water. Grading, swales and yard drains are usually landscaping or excavation work; foundation drains and water coming through the walls call for a drainage or waterproofing contractor; and sewer connections, backwater valves and some pump installations involve a plumber. A drainage contractor who looks at the whole lot can often coordinate the pieces.
Sources
- Property grading — Government of Canada
- French drains, trench drains and weeping tiles — Government of Canada
- Mandatory Downspout Disconnection — City of Toronto
- Exterior gutters: the right way to install them — Ville de Montréal
- Excavation work — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
- Homeowners: public utility locates — Ontario One Call
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of drainage system
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Interior or exterior approach
- Length of foundation wall to excavate or treat
- Depth, soil conditions and access for equipment
- Crack repair, underpinning or other structural work
- Weeping tile, sump pumps and backwater valves
- Restoring landscaping, driveways or finished basements
- Testing and safe removal of mould or asbestos, where needed
How to compare drainage contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who finds the source of the water before recommending a fix, whether that's grading, eavestroughs, cracks or drainage.
- Ask them to explain the difference between interior and exterior waterproofing for your home, and why they recommend one.
- For foundation cracks that are wide, growing or uneven, ask whether a structural engineer should assess them first.
- For mould, asbestos or radon, hire professionals qualified for that specific work, and don't disturb suspect materials yourself.
- Get a written quote that lists excavation, membranes, weeping tile, sump pumps and restoration of landscaping or finishes.
Questions to ask drainage contractors before you hire
- Where do you think the water is coming from, and how did you confirm it?
- Do you recommend interior or exterior waterproofing for my home, and why?
- Should a structural engineer look at these cracks or this wall?
- Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
- Is your warranty transferable if I sell the house, and what does it cover?
- How will you restore the landscaping, driveway or basement finishes afterwards?
- If you find mould or asbestos, how will it be handled and by whom?
When to call a pro for drainage system
- Water on the basement floor or damp walls after rain or snowmelt
- Foundation cracks that are growing, or walls that bow or lean, which should be assessed by a qualified professional
- Musty smells or mould that keeps coming back
- Suspected asbestos in insulation, flooring or pipe wrap: leave it undisturbed and call a qualified abatement professional.
Drainage system permits and local rules
Some drainage system work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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