Skip to content
LokalMatch

Landscapers

Landscapers near you

Landscapers in Britain cover everything from a new lawn and planting scheme to patios, block paving, tarmac drives, fencing, decking, drainage and the levels work that decides where rainwater ends up. Most domestic gardens combine soft landscaping, which is turf, beds, hedges and trees, with hard landscaping, which is the paving, steps, walls and edges that hold the garden together. The two need different skills and often different crews.

Tell us about your landscaping project and we’ll help you find local landscapers who serve your area.

Free for homeowners · No obligation to hire

On this page

Landscaping is not a licensed trade in the United Kingdom. Anyone may trade as a landscaper, so the checks that matter are insurance, a written specification and a track record you can look at. TrustMark describes itself as the Government Endorsed Quality Scheme for work in and around the home, and the Association of Professional Landscapers says it is the only landscaping scheme operator of TrustMark; the British Association of Landscape Industries is the other long-standing trade body for the sector.

What makes a British garden job different from garden work anywhere else is the law attached to the living parts of it. Japanese knotweed carries waste and nuisance duties, mature trees may be covered by a Tree Preservation Order or sit in a conservation area, nesting birds are protected while the nest is in use, evergreen boundary hedges fall under the high hedges rules, and in a dry summer a water company can prohibit garden watering with a hosepipe.

What a landscaping job covers: soft landscaping, hard landscaping and drainage

It helps to describe the job in the same terms a landscaper prices it. Soft landscaping is the planting: turf or seed, beds, shrubs, hedging and topsoil. Hard landscaping is the built work: patios, paths, block paving, resin or tarmac drives, steps, retaining edges, fencing and decking. Drainage and levels sit underneath both, and they are what separates a garden that still works after five winters from one that puddles every time it rains.

  • Turfing and seeding, including stripping the old lawn, grading and preparing a fine tilth before laying.
  • Planting schemes, hedging and tree planting, with soil improvement and a watering plan for the first season.
  • Patios and paths in natural stone, porcelain or concrete flags, laid on a prepared sub-base with falls away from the house.
  • Driveways in block paving, tarmac or resin-bound surfacing, where the sub-base and edge restraint matter more than the surface.
  • Fencing, gates, sleepers, raised beds and decking, set out so posts stay clear of drain runs and boundaries.
  • Drainage work: land drains, soakaways, channel drains at thresholds and re-grading so surface water leaves the house rather than pooling against a wall.
  • Ongoing garden maintenance, hedge cutting and seasonal tidying, usually quoted as a visit schedule rather than a single job.

Japanese knotweed: the one plant that changes a British garden project

Japanese knotweed is the defining problem plant in British gardens, and it is a legal matter as much as a horticultural one. Government guidance is blunt about the two duties: you do not have to remove knotweed from your own land unless it is causing a nuisance, but you must stop it spreading off your property, and you can be prosecuted for causing it to spread into the wild.

Once it is cut or dug, it becomes a waste problem. Soil and plant material contaminated with knotweed can be classified as controlled waste. Guidance says it must not be disposed of with other surplus soil or sold on as topsoil; taking it off site means a registered waste carrier and a permitted landfill or incineration site, with the load covered in transit and vehicles cleaned afterwards. Burying it on site requires notifying the Environment Agency in advance, and treating plants near water needs the Environment Agency's agreement on the herbicide. This is why knotweed removal is quoted by specialist firms rather than added to a general landscaping price: government guidance points to contractors on the BASIS Professional Register or members of bodies such as the Invasive Non-Native Specialists Association or the Property Care Association.

It also follows the house. The official guide to selling a home says your legal representative will ask you to complete a Property Information Form, known as a TA6, and lists Japanese knotweed management plans among the paperwork a seller may need; it also warns sellers not to mislead buyers by covering up defects. Lenders take the same view. The government's equity mortgage lenders' handbook for conveyancers, for example, deals with knotweed identified on a property or within 7 metres of any boundary, and looks for a management plan completed by an appropriately qualified person or company, a completion certificate and a minimum 10 year insurance-backed guarantee. Treating knotweed quietly and keeping no paperwork is the expensive option.

Protected trees, conservation areas and the high hedges rules before you cut anything

A tree in your own garden is not automatically yours to fell. A Tree Preservation Order prohibits cutting down, topping, lopping, uprooting, wilful damage and wilful destruction without the local planning authority's written consent. Trees in a conservation area that are not already covered by an Order have their own rule: you give the council six weeks' notice before work, which gives it time to decide whether to make an Order. There are exemptions, with their own notice requirements, for dead trees and for trees presenting an immediate risk of serious harm, where written notice must be given as soon as practicable. A landscaper or arborist who shrugs at this question is the wrong one to hire.

Boundary hedges have a separate regime. In England, the high hedges provisions apply to a line of two or more mostly evergreen or semi-evergreen trees or shrubs over 2 metres tall that spoils a neighbour's reasonable enjoyment of their property. You must try to settle the dispute informally first, and the council may charge a fee to consider a complaint. Scotland has its own statute, the High Hedges (Scotland) Act 2013, under which a neighbour applies to the local authority for a high hedge notice after meeting pre-application requirements. In both cases the complaint is about the hedge's height and effect, not about whether you like it.

Nesting birds, hedge cutting and hosepipe bans through the British year

Two seasonal rules catch homeowners out, and both sit outside anything a landscaper can price away. Under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 it is an offence to intentionally kill, injure or take any wild bird, to take, damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird while that nest is in use or being built, or to take or destroy an egg. That applies to the hedge along your boundary and to the ivy on the garage as much as to woodland, which is why competent contractors check a hedge before the machine goes into it and will postpone the cut if a nest is active.

The second is water. Under section 76 of the Water Industry Act 1991, a water company may prohibit specified uses if it thinks it is experiencing, or may experience, a serious shortage of water for distribution. The prohibited uses named in the legislation include watering a garden using a hosepipe, cleaning a private motor vehicle using a hosepipe and filling a domestic pool or pond. A ban has to specify the date it starts and the area it covers, so the company's own notice is the thing to read before you plan new turf or new planting, since both need reliable watering in their first weeks.

Choosing paving, turf and fencing materials for a British garden

  • Natural stone and porcelain paving both suit damp British conditions, but porcelain needs a specific laying method and primer on the slab backs, so confirm the contractor has used it before.
  • Block paving allows individual blocks to be lifted and reset after a service trench or a settled patch, which matters on a drive that utilities may dig up.
  • Tarmac is quick to lay over a sound base and needs a properly compacted sub-base and edge restraint; a thin layer over an old surface tends to craze and fail at the edges.
  • Turf establishes faster than seed and suits autumn or spring laying; seed is cheaper to buy but needs weeks of protection and consistent moisture.
  • Timber fencing and decking should be pressure treated, with post fixings that keep end grain out of standing water.
  • Topsoil quality decides how planting performs; ask what is being imported and where beds will be improved rather than simply filled.
  • Permeable surfaces and soakaways reduce run-off from a new drive or patio and are worth raising early, because retrofitting drainage after the paving is down means lifting it again.

How a garden project runs from survey to handover

A good landscaping job spends its first day on levels, not on plants. The contractor should measure the site, note where water currently goes, identify trees that may be protected, check for knotweed and other invasive plants and agree where spoil and deliveries will go. Access decides a surprising amount: a garden reachable only through the house is a different job from one with side access wide enough for a mini digger.

Then comes the sequence: clearance and waste removal, excavation and sub-base, drainage and services, hard landscaping, topsoil and planting, turf last so it is not walked on. Ask for the specification in writing, including sub-base depths, whether the spoil is being taken away, who is responsible for reinstating a damaged kerb or verge crossing, and what aftercare the planting and turf need in the first season.

LokalMatch is where that conversation starts. You describe the garden job once, including access, the surfaces involved and anything you already know about trees or knotweed, and matched landscapers in your postcode area get in touch with you directly. The professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not carry out the work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any company, so the references, insurance and written specification are still yours to check.

What actually drives the price of a landscaping quote

  • Access for machinery and deliveries, and whether spoil has to be barrowed through the house or a narrow side passage.
  • Ground conditions: heavy clay, made ground, tree roots or an old concrete base all change excavation time.
  • Waste volume, since skips and tipping charges are a real part of any clearance or excavation job.
  • Whether drainage, a soakaway or a retaining structure is needed to make the levels work.
  • The specification of the hard surfaces, especially sub-base depth and edge detailing, which is where a cheap quote usually differs from a thorough one.
  • Japanese knotweed or other invasive plants, which bring specialist treatment, controlled-waste disposal and documentation.
  • Protected trees or hedges, where consent or notice periods can add weeks to the programme before anyone starts.

Landscapers: frequently asked questions

Do landscapers need a licence in the UK?

No. Landscaping is not a licensed trade, so there is no register you can check the way you would for gas or electrical work. What you can check is public liability insurance, a written specification, and membership of a scheme with its own standards: the Association of Professional Landscapers operates within TrustMark, which is described as the Government Endorsed Quality Scheme, and the British Association of Landscape Industries accredits landscaping businesses. Membership is voluntary, so its absence is not a red flag on its own, but it gives you something to verify.

Can I cut down a tree in my own garden?

Only if it is not protected. If a Tree Preservation Order covers the tree, you need the local planning authority's written consent before cutting it down, topping, lopping or uprooting it. If the tree is in a conservation area without an Order, you must give the council six weeks' notice before starting. Separate exemptions and notice requirements cover dead trees and trees that present an immediate risk of serious harm. Ask your council before you book the work, not after.

I have found Japanese knotweed in the garden. What do I have to do?

You are not obliged to remove it from your own land unless it is causing a nuisance, but you must stop it spreading off your property, and causing it to spread into the wild can be prosecuted. Do not dig it out and add it to a general skip: contaminated soil and plant material can be controlled waste, must not go out with surplus soil or be sold as topsoil, and going off site means a registered waste carrier and a permitted site. Burying it on site means notifying the Environment Agency first. Use a specialist and keep the treatment plan and paperwork, because a future buyer's lender is likely to ask for it.

Is it safe to have the hedge cut in spring?

Legally it is the nest that matters, not the calendar. It is an offence to intentionally take, damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird while that nest is in use or being built, so a hedge with an active nest should be left until the birds have finished. A contractor should check the hedge before cutting and be willing to come back rather than work around a nest.

Can I water new turf during a hosepipe ban?

Read your water company's notice. A temporary use ban is made by the company under section 76 of the Water Industry Act 1991 when it faces a serious shortage of water, and the uses named in the legislation include watering a garden with a hosepipe. The notice must say when the ban starts and which area it covers, and each company sets out its own exceptions, so check before you commit to laying turf or a new planting scheme in a dry summer.

My neighbour's leylandii blocks all my light. Can the council make them cut it?

Possibly, under the high hedges rules. In England these apply to two or more mostly evergreen or semi-evergreen trees or shrubs forming a line over 2 metres tall that affects your reasonable enjoyment of your property, and you must try to resolve it with your neighbour first; the council can charge a fee to consider a complaint. In Scotland, the equivalent route is an application to the local authority for a high hedge notice under the High Hedges (Scotland) Act 2013.

Sources

  1. GOV.UK: How to stop Japanese knotweed from spreading
  2. GOV.UK: Tree preservation orders and trees in conservation areas
  3. GOV.UK: High hedges, trees and boundaries (neighbour disputes)
  4. High Hedges (Scotland) Act 2013
  5. Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, section 1: protection of wild birds and nests
  6. Water Industry Act 1991, section 76: temporary bans on the use of water
  7. GOV.UK: How to sell a home (Property Information Form and knotweed management plans)
  8. GOV.UK: Equity mortgage lenders' handbook for conveyancers (Japanese knotweed)
  9. TrustMark: the Government Endorsed Quality Scheme

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

What landscapers can help with

Common jobs homeowners hire landscapers for:

Find landscapers by city

England

Show 173 cities

What affects the cost of landscaping

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the yard and the scope of the design
  • Grading, excavation and drainage work
  • Hardscape materials, such as stone, pavers or wood
  • Plants, sod and soil
  • Access for machinery
  • Removal of old materials, trees or stumps
  • How often visits are scheduled for ongoing services

How to compare landscapers before you hire

  • Choose a company that does the kind of work you need, since design, lawn care, tree work and hardscaping are different specialties.
  • For big projects, ask for a site plan or drawing before work starts.
  • Ask how they'll handle grading and drainage so water moves away from the house.
  • For tree removal or large pruning, look for a qualified arborist with liability insurance.
  • For ongoing services like lawn care or snow removal, get the visit schedule and what's included in writing.

Questions to ask landscapers before you hire

  • Can I see a plan or drawing before you start?
  • How will you handle drainage and grading?
  • Will you have underground utilities located before you dig?
  • Does any of this work need a permit, such as for a retaining wall, fence or tree removal?
  • What plants or materials do you recommend for our climate and my yard's sun and shade?
  • Do you guarantee plants or sod, and for what conditions?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?

When to call a pro for landscaping

  • Water that pools near the house or in the yard after rain
  • A tree that is leaning, cracked or has large dead branches over the house or a driveway
  • A retaining wall that is bulging, leaning or cracking

Landscaping permits and local rules

Some landscaping work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Free project calculators

Ready to get landscaping quotes?

Tell us about your landscaping project.

Do you offer landscaping services?

Join LokalMatch to get matched with homeowners in the areas you serve.