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Landscape design is a drawing service rather than a building service. What you buy is a survey of what is there, a set of proposals for levels, structures, surfaces and planting, and a specification detailed enough that three contractors can price the same garden and give you comparable figures. Some designers stop at the drawings; others stay on to run the job. Those are two different appointments and should be priced as two different things.

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The design stage is also where the consents question is cheapest to answer. Most of what a British garden design proposes — a studio at the end of the lawn, a store, a covered seating structure, a pergola over a terrace — is assessed as an outbuilding, and outbuildings sit inside permitted development rights that come with hard numbers attached. Those numbers are not the same in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland. A designer who moves between countries and carries one rule in their head is the person who produces a beautiful drawing you cannot build.

The useful test of a design is whether it survives contact with a spade. Levels, access for machinery, where the spoil goes and where water ends up decide more about the finished garden than the mood board does, and they are all settled on paper long before anyone is on site.

What a landscape designer actually hands over

  • A measured survey of the plot, including spot levels, because a garden that looks flat almost never is.
  • A note of what constrains the site: boundaries, drains and inspection covers, overhead lines, mature trees and the route a machine can take in.
  • A concept layout showing how the space divides up and how people are expected to move through it.
  • A general arrangement drawing with dimensions, which is the document a contractor prices from.
  • Construction details for the parts that fail when they are guessed: steps, edges, retaining, drainage outlets and the junction between a hard surface and the house.
  • A planting plan with a schedule listing species, sizes and quantities, so that substitutions are visible rather than silent.
  • A written specification covering sub-base build-ups, materials and workmanship, which is what makes competing quotations comparable.
  • A view on consents: whether anything drawn needs an application, and who is responsible for making it.

Garden buildings under permitted development: England's limits, and the extra rule in Wales

In England, a garden studio, store or covered structure is granted planning permission by Class E of Schedule 2, Part 1 of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, subject to conditions the Planning Portal summarises. The ones that shape a design are the height rules — single storey, eaves no more than 2.5 metres, four metres overall with a dual-pitched roof and three metres with any other roof, dropping to 2.5 metres for anything within two metres of a boundary — and the requirement that no more than half the land around the original house is covered by additions and buildings. Verandas, balconies and raised platforms are excluded, with a platform defined as anything more than 0.3 metres high, and on designated land such as a National Park or an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty the area of buildings and enclosures more than 20 metres from the house is capped at 10 square metres.

Wales publishes its own set, and one of the limits has no counterpart in England. The Welsh Government's guidance states that outbuildings must not cover more than 50 per cent of the curtilage, must not be in front of the building line of the principal elevation, and must sit either no closer to a highway than the house or at least five metres from it, whichever is nearer. Heights are capped at four metres for a roof with more than one pitch and three metres for a single pitch or other roof form, with 2.5 metres applying within two metres of a boundary. The distinctive rule is that anything within two metres of the house itself cannot exceed 1.5 metres in height, which quietly rules out the low store tucked against the back wall that an English design would treat as unremarkable.

Both countries treat a listed building as a stop sign. The Planning Portal states that within the curtilage of a listed building any outbuilding will require planning permission, and permitted development rights can also be withdrawn by condition or by an Article 4 direction, which is common in conservation areas. The design stage is the moment to ask the local planning authority whether the rights still exist at your address, rather than discovering it after the base has been poured.

Scotland and Northern Ireland count the same building differently

Scotland works from Class 3 of Schedule 1 to the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, and the arithmetic is genuinely different. Eaves may not exceed three metres and no part of the development may exceed four metres in height, but the boundary trigger is tighter in distance and the same in height: anything within one metre of the curtilage boundary is limited to 2.5 metres. The 50 per cent test is applied to the front or rear curtilage and, unusually, is calculated excluding any hard surface or deck. Development is not permitted forward of a wall forming the principal elevation, or a side elevation where that elevation fronts a road. In a conservation area the permitted footprint falls to eight square metres, and within the curtilage of a listed building to four.

Northern Ireland uses Part 1 of the Schedule to the Planning (General Permitted Development) Order (Northern Ireland) 2015, where buildings and enclosures within the curtilage of a dwellinghouse sit in Class D. The height ceiling is four metres, the eaves limit of 2.5 metres applies within two metres of the curtilage boundary, and the total ground covered by buildings or enclosures other than the original house may not exceed 50 per cent of the curtilage. There is also a condition with no English equivalent: no part may be within 3.5 metres of a curtilage boundary with a road that lies opposite the rear wall of the house. As everywhere else, nothing may go forward of a wall fronting a road that forms the principal or a side elevation.

The three layers a design has to resolve

  • Levels: where the garden rises and falls, how steps and ramps absorb the change, and what has to retain what.
  • Circulation: the routes people and wheelbarrows actually take, which is the layer most often drawn for the eye rather than the foot.
  • Drainage: where every square metre of new hard surface sends its water, decided before the surfaces are chosen rather than after.
  • Structures: buildings, pergolas, screens and boundary treatments, which carry the consents question and usually the biggest single cost.
  • Surfaces: the split between paving, gravel, lawn and planting, and the edges that hold each one in place.
  • Planting: the layer that changes most over time, and the only one that is worse on the day it is finished than five years later.
  • Services: lighting circuits, water, and the ducting that has to be laid before a surface goes down, not chased in afterwards.

A designer, a design-and-build landscaper, or a drawing from whoever is building it

An independent designer is worth it when the garden has a problem rather than just an empty space: steep levels, a difficult aspect, a site that floods, or a client who wants to tender the work and compare like with like. The output is a document that belongs to you, which means you can put the same specification in front of several contractors and read the differences in their prices as differences in approach rather than differences in assumption. The cost of the drawings is separate from the cost of the garden, which some people find hard to accept until they have seen two quotations that are not describing the same job.

Design and build is simpler and is often the better answer for a straightforward plot. One firm draws it, prices it and builds it, there is no gap between intention and execution, and nobody can blame anyone else when a detail does not work. The trade-off is that you lose the ability to compare, and the design tends to be shaped by what that firm builds most easily. The version to be wary of is the third one: no drawing at all, a verbal description and a single lump sum. It is not that the work will be bad, it is that neither side will later be able to say what was agreed.

Where a good drawing fails on site

  • Access was never checked: a design needing a mini excavator on a site reachable only through the house doubles the labour before anything is built.
  • Levels were assumed rather than surveyed, so the steps that looked elegant on paper arrive at the wrong height at one end.
  • A drain run, inspection chamber or soakaway sits exactly where the new structure is drawn, and is discovered by the machine.
  • Spoil had nowhere to go, and a garden regrade generates far more material than the drawings suggest.
  • The planting schedule specifies sizes nobody can supply in the season the programme reaches, so substitutions arrive unannounced.
  • Nobody priced the temporary works: protecting the lawn, the route for barrows, or reinstating a verge after deliveries.
  • The consent question was left open, and the structure that made the design work turns out to need an application nobody has started.

What drives a landscape design quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

Design fees move with the size of the site, the number of drawings you need and how much of the job the designer stays involved in. The variables that matter are whether a measured level survey is included or bought in, how many structures and level changes have to be detailed, whether construction details are drawn or left to the contractor, whether a planting plan and schedule are part of the package, and whether the appointment ends at the drawings or continues through tendering and site visits. A flat rear garden with a lawn and two borders is a fraction of the work of a terraced plot with retaining, steps and a building at the top.

LokalMatch is the introduction, not the design. Set out the garden once with your postcode — its rough size, what is wrong with it now, and how far you want the drawings to go — and designers and landscapers working in your area contact you. Using LokalMatch costs homeowners nothing; the professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not draw, build or manage anything, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend the people who reply, so comparing what each fee actually includes, and asking who is responsible for any planning application, is work that stays with you.

Landscape Design: frequently asked questions

Do I need planning permission for a garden room?

Often not, but the limits differ by country. In England, Class E of the 2015 General Permitted Development Order allows an outbuilding that is single storey, no more than four metres high with a dual-pitched roof or three metres otherwise, no more than 2.5 metres within two metres of a boundary, with eaves under 2.5 metres and no more than half the land around the original house covered. Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland publish their own figures, and none of them matches England exactly. Within the curtilage of a listed building any outbuilding needs permission.

Is a raised deck or platform covered by permitted development?

Only if it is low. The Planning Portal's rules for outbuildings in England exclude verandas, balconies and raised platforms, and define a platform as anything projecting more than 0.3 metres above the ground. The Welsh Government's guidance uses the same 300mm figure for verandas, balconies and raised platforms. That is why a seating terrace lifted to meet a back door so often needs an application when the identical terrace at ground level does not.

What is different about the rules in Scotland?

Class 3 of Schedule 1 to the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992 sets a four metre overall height and a three metre eaves height, but applies its boundary limit within one metre rather than two, capping anything that close at 2.5 metres. Its 50 per cent test looks at the front or rear curtilage and is calculated excluding any hard surface or deck. In a conservation area the permitted footprint drops to eight square metres, and within the curtilage of a listed building to four.

Should I pay for drawings if one company is going to build it anyway?

It depends on what you want to be able to do afterwards. Drawings you own let you put the same specification to several contractors, so the prices you get back differ in approach rather than in guesswork. If you already know who is building it and the garden is straightforward, a design-and-build appointment removes a hand-off and usually a delay. What is worth avoiding either way is having no written specification at all, because that is the version where nobody can later establish what was agreed.

When in the process should consents be checked?

At the survey stage, before the concept is drawn. Permitted development rights can be removed by a condition on the original planning permission or by an Article 4 direction, they do not apply within the curtilage of a listed building, and they are tightened on designated land, where the Planning Portal caps buildings and enclosures more than 20 metres from the house at 10 square metres. A phone call to the local planning authority at the start costs nothing and occasionally changes the whole layout.

Sources

  1. The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, Schedule 2 Part 1 (Class E)
  2. Planning Portal: outbuildings — planning permission (heights, 50 per cent rule, 0.3 metre platform limit, designated land)
  3. GOV.WALES: planning permission — outbuildings (Welsh limits, including the 1.5 metre rule within two metres of the house)
  4. The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, Schedule 1 (Class 3)
  5. The Planning (General Permitted Development) Order (Northern Ireland) 2015, Schedule, Part 1 (Class D)

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of landscape design

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the yard and the scope of the design
  • Grading, excavation and drainage work
  • Hardscape materials, such as stone, pavers or wood
  • Plants, sod and soil
  • Access for machinery
  • Removal of old materials, trees or stumps
  • How often visits are scheduled for ongoing services

How to compare landscape designers before you hire

  • Choose a company that does the kind of work you need, since design, lawn care, tree work and hardscaping are different specialties.
  • For big projects, ask for a site plan or drawing before work starts.
  • Ask how they'll handle grading and drainage so water moves away from the house.
  • For tree removal or large pruning, look for a qualified arborist with liability insurance.
  • For ongoing services like lawn care or snow removal, get the visit schedule and what's included in writing.

Questions to ask landscape designers before you hire

  • Can I see a plan or drawing before you start?
  • How will you handle drainage and grading?
  • Will you have underground utilities located before you dig?
  • Does any of this work need a permit, such as for a retaining wall, fence or tree removal?
  • What plants or materials do you recommend for our climate and my yard's sun and shade?
  • Do you guarantee plants or sod, and for what conditions?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?

When to call a pro for landscape design

  • Water that pools near the house or in the yard after rain
  • A tree that is leaning, cracked or has large dead branches over the house or a driveway
  • A retaining wall that is bulging, leaning or cracking

Landscape design permits and local rules

Some landscape design work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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