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Irrigation is a smaller, quieter installation in Britain than in hotter countries, and it is usually installed for particular parts of a garden rather than for the whole of it: raised beds and a vegetable plot, a greenhouse, pots and hanging baskets that dry out in a day, a newly laid lawn that has to establish, or the beds along a south-facing wall that never get enough rain. Most domestic systems here are drip or seep lines on a timer, sometimes with pop-up sprinklers for the lawn, fed from an outside tap.

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The rule that catches people out is that the water company has a say in the installation. Under regulation 5 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, notice must be given to the water undertaker before installing certain fittings, and a garden watering system is specifically among them, as is a pond or swimming pool over 10,000 litres designed to be replenished automatically. The undertaker must not unreasonably withhold consent and has ten working days to respond, after which consent is deemed to have been granted unconditionally.

The second is that a system fed from the mains must not be able to contaminate the mains. Schedule 2 to the same regulations requires every water system to contain an adequate device or devices for preventing backflow, and a hose lying in a wet border is exactly the kind of connection those rules exist for. Add the possibility of a temporary use ban in a dry summer and you have the three things worth understanding before anyone starts digging.

Ways to water a British garden: seep hose, drip lines, pop-up sprinklers and timers

  • Porous or seep hose: a permeable pipe laid along a border or under mulch that weeps slowly along its length, cheap and effective for hedges and shrub beds.
  • Drip lines with emitters: individual drippers placed at each plant, which gives the most control and wastes the least, and is the usual choice for vegetable beds and pots.
  • Micro-sprays: small spray heads for dense planting and greenhouse staging, useful where drip points would miss too much of the bed.
  • Pop-up sprinklers: retractable heads set flush in a lawn, fed by buried pipe, which is the most disruptive option to install because the lawn has to be cut into.
  • Automatic pot and basket watering: small-bore tubing run to individual containers, which is what most British households actually need for holidays.
  • Controllers and timers: from a simple battery tap timer to a controller running several zones, often with a rain sensor or a soil moisture sensor so it skips a cycle after rain.
  • Water butt systems: a pump or gravity feed drawing from stored rainwater rather than the mains, which sidesteps the mains connection issues entirely.

Telling your water company first: notification under the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999

Regulation 5 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 sets out the works for which a person must give notice to the water undertaker before beginning, and the installation of a garden watering system is on that list, alongside items such as pumps, water treatment units, pressure-reducing valves and certain baths and bidets. The construction of a pond or swimming pool with a capacity greater than 10,000 litres which is designed to be replenished by automatic means is also notifiable. The procedure is straightforward: give notice of the proposed work, obtain the undertaker's written consent, which is not to be unreasonably withheld, and comply with any conditions attached to it. If the undertaker does not respond within ten working days, consent is deemed to have been granted unconditionally.

There is a practical reason to care beyond compliance. Certain fittings installed by an approved contractor do not require prior notification, which is why installers who are part of an approved contractor scheme make a point of saying so. Ask an irrigation installer directly whether they will be notifying your water company or whether they work as an approved contractor, and get the answer in writing. A homeowner who has a system plumbed in by someone who has never heard of regulation 5 is the one left dealing with the water company later.

Backflow: why a garden system must not be able to contaminate the mains

The risk that the water fittings regulations are most concerned with in a garden is water flowing the wrong way. Schedule 2 to the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 requires that every water system shall contain an adequate device or devices for preventing backflow of fluid from any appliance, fitting or process, and that no supply or distributing pipe shall convey, or be connected so that it can convey, fluid in the categories that are not wholesome water. A drip line sitting in soil that has been fed and treated, a hose end submerged in a pond or a water butt, or a sprinkler head lying in a puddle, are all situations where a drop in mains pressure could pull garden water back towards the house.

In practice this is why an outside tap and a garden system are fitted with the appropriate backflow protection rather than simply teed off a convenient pipe, and why the type of protection depends on what the water could be contaminated by. It is not a detail to negotiate down in a quotation. If a quote for an irrigation system makes no mention of backflow prevention or of notifying the water company, that tells you something about the installer, and it is worth asking the question before comparing prices.

Hosepipe bans and temporary use bans: what they cover and what they do not

Under section 76 of the Water Industry Act 1991, a water company that thinks it is experiencing, or may experience, a serious shortage of water for distribution may prohibit specified uses. The list in the Act includes watering a garden using a hosepipe, cleaning a private motor vehicle using a hosepipe, filling a domestic swimming or paddling pool, drawing water by hosepipe for domestic recreational use, maintaining ornamental fountains and cleaning walls, windows, paths or patios with a hosepipe. A prohibition must specify the date it takes effect and the area it applies to, and breach is an offence punishable on summary conviction by a fine up to level 3 on the standard scale. The company must also make arrangements for a reasonable reduction of charges for the prohibited uses.

The Water Use (Temporary Bans) Order 2010 supplies the definitions that decide whether your particular set-up is caught. Using a hosepipe includes drawing water through a hosepipe from a container and applying it, and filling or partly filling a container by hosepipe and then applying the water. A garden is defined broadly and includes lawns, grass verges, allotment gardens and other green spaces, but it excludes land used commercially for growing crops or plants, plants grown for sale, National Plant Collections, temporary garden or flower displays, and plants in pots outdoors or under cover such as in a greenhouse. There is an exception where the use is for health or safety reasons. Because each company publishes its own notice and its own concessions, read the notice rather than relying on what a neighbouring company has announced.

Mains water, rainwater from a butt, or a borehole

Most British garden systems run on mains water because it is simple and always available, but it is metered in many homes, it is the supply a temporary use ban restricts, and it is the one that brings the water fittings regulations into play. Stored rainwater is the obvious alternative for a garden: butts and larger tanks fed from roofs cost nothing to fill, the water suits most plants, and a small pump feeds drip lines perfectly well. The limits are volume and reliability, since a dry spell empties the store exactly when the garden needs it most, so most households end up with rainwater as the first source and a mains connection as backup.

Taking water from a borehole, a well, a stream or a pond is a different matter and belongs to abstraction law rather than plumbing. Section 27 of the Water Resources Act 1991 exempts the abstraction of a quantity of water not exceeding twenty cubic metres in any period of twenty-four hours, provided it is not part of a continuous or serial operation exceeding that amount. A domestic garden rarely approaches that figure, but if you are considering a borehole it is worth confirming the position with the Environment Agency before drilling, and remembering that a private supply brought into the house raises separate questions that your local authority deals with.

Keeping a garden watering system working through the British year

  • Flush the lines at the start of the season and clean the filter, since silt and biofilm block drip emitters faster than anything else.
  • Check every emitter while the system runs, because a blocked dripper is invisible until the plant it serves dies.
  • Drain outside taps and exposed pipework, and lag or isolate them before a cold snap, as burst pipework is the usual winter failure in a British garden system.
  • Bring timers, controllers and battery units under cover over winter, and replace batteries at the start of each season rather than mid-holiday.
  • Reset the programme as the seasons change: a schedule that suits July is far too much in September, and a controller left running through autumn rain wastes both water and money.
  • Fit or check a rain sensor or soil moisture sensor so the system skips cycles after rain, which matters more in Britain than in drier countries.
  • Watch the meter or the bill for an unexplained rise, which is often the first sign of a leak in a buried line.

How an irrigation installation should run, from survey to handover

A proper survey looks at pressure and flow at the tap before anything is designed, because those two figures determine how many emitters or heads can run at once and therefore how many zones the garden needs. The installer should also look at where the supply will be taken from, how the backflow protection will be arranged, whether notice to the water company is required, where the controller will live and how the pipe runs will avoid existing services, tree roots and the areas you intend to dig later.

Installation then runs from the connection outwards: the supply point and its protection, a filter and any pressure regulation, the main run, the zone valves, then the distribution pipe and the emitters or heads, which are best positioned with the planting in mind rather than in a grid. At handover you should be shown how to change the programme, how to shut the system down, how to flush the filter and what to do before the first frost. Ask for a simple plan of where the buried pipe runs, which is the document you will want the first time you dig a new bed.

If you want to compare installers, LokalMatch takes the details once: the size and layout of the garden, which areas need watering, whether there is an outside tap or a water butt to work from, and whether you want pots, beds, a greenhouse or the lawn covered. Matched irrigation contractors covering your postcode then contact you. The contractors pay for the requests they receive, while LokalMatch does not install systems, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so ask each one about backflow protection, water company notification and how many zones your pressure will actually support.

What drives the price of a garden irrigation system

  • The number of zones, which is set by the available pressure and flow rather than by the size of the garden alone.
  • Whether the lawn is included, since pop-up sprinklers mean lifting turf and trenching, while beds and pots can often be done with surface lines under mulch.
  • The distance from the supply point to the furthest planting, and whether pipe has to cross a patio, a drive or a path.
  • Ground conditions for trenching: heavy clay, tree roots, buried services and old hardcore all slow the work.
  • The type of controller, and whether rain or soil moisture sensors and multiple valve zones are included.
  • Backflow protection and any work needed at the supply point to make the connection compliant.
  • Whether the system is fed from stored rainwater, which adds a pump and filtration but reduces what you draw from the mains.

Irrigation: frequently asked questions

Do I have to tell my water company before installing a garden watering system?

Yes, in most cases. Regulation 5 of the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 requires notice to the water undertaker before certain works, and a garden watering system is specifically listed, as is a pond or swimming pool over 10,000 litres designed to be replenished automatically. You give notice, obtain written consent, which must not be unreasonably withheld, and comply with any conditions. If the undertaker does not respond within ten working days, consent is deemed to have been granted unconditionally. Some fittings installed by an approved contractor do not need prior notification, so ask your installer which route they are using.

Can I run my irrigation system during a hosepipe ban?

Read your own water company's notice, because a temporary use ban is made by the company under section 76 of the Water Industry Act 1991 and must state when it takes effect and which area it covers. The uses the Act allows to be prohibited include watering a garden using a hosepipe. The Water Use (Temporary Bans) Order 2010 defines a garden broadly, including lawns and allotment gardens, while excluding plants grown for sale and plants in outdoor pots or under cover such as in a greenhouse, and it includes an exception where watering is needed for health or safety reasons. Companies publish their own concessions, so the notice is the document that decides it.

Why does an irrigation system need backflow protection?

To stop garden water being drawn back into the drinking water supply if mains pressure drops. Schedule 2 to the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999 requires every water system to contain an adequate device or devices for preventing backflow, and prohibits a supply or distributing pipe from being connected so that it could convey water that is not wholesome. Drip lines lying in treated soil, a hose end in a pond or water butt, and sprinkler heads sitting in puddles are exactly the situations those rules address. If a quotation says nothing about backflow protection, ask about it before comparing it with any other quote.

Is it worth running irrigation from a water butt instead of the mains?

For most British gardens, yes, at least as the first source. Rainwater collected from roofs costs nothing to gather, suits most plants and a small pump will run drip or seep lines from a butt or tank without difficulty. Its weakness is capacity: a dry spell empties the store precisely when the garden needs the water most, so many households use stored rainwater as the main supply with a mains connection as backup. Using stored rainwater also reduces what you draw from the metered supply and limits how much a temporary use ban disrupts your watering.

Do I need a licence to take water from a borehole or stream for the garden?

Small amounts are exempt. Section 27 of the Water Resources Act 1991 exempts abstraction of a quantity of water not exceeding twenty cubic metres in any period of twenty-four hours, provided it is not part of a continuous or serial operation exceeding that amount, and a domestic garden rarely comes close to that figure. That said, a borehole is a significant undertaking, the rules around private water supplies to a house are separate, and the exemption cannot be used to exceed an existing abstraction licence. Confirm the position with the Environment Agency before committing to drilling.

Will an irrigation system freeze in winter?

Parts of it can. British winters are mild compared with continental ones, but a hard frost will burst an outside tap, exposed pipework or a filter housing left full of water. Before the first cold weather, isolate and drain the outside tap and any exposed runs, take timers, controllers and battery units under cover, and drain the filter bowl. Buried drip and seep lines are generally more tolerant, but they still benefit from draining where the layout allows. Ask your installer to show you the shutdown routine at handover rather than working it out in December.

Sources

  1. The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, regulation 5: notification of proposed water fittings
  2. The Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations 1999, Schedule 2: requirements including backflow prevention
  3. Water Industry Act 1991, section 76: temporary bans on the use of water
  4. The Water Use (Temporary Bans) Order 2010
  5. Water Resources Act 1991, section 27: abstraction of small quantities
  6. GOV.UK: Water management - abstract or impound water

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of irrigation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the yard and the scope of the design
  • Grading, excavation and drainage work
  • Hardscape materials, such as stone, pavers or wood
  • Plants, sod and soil
  • Access for machinery
  • Removal of old materials, trees or stumps
  • How often visits are scheduled for ongoing services

How to compare irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a company that does the kind of work you need, since design, lawn care, tree work and hardscaping are different specialties.
  • For big projects, ask for a site plan or drawing before work starts.
  • Ask how they'll handle grading and drainage so water moves away from the house.
  • For tree removal or large pruning, look for a qualified arborist with liability insurance.
  • For ongoing services like lawn care or snow removal, get the visit schedule and what's included in writing.

Questions to ask irrigation contractors before you hire

  • Can I see a plan or drawing before you start?
  • How will you handle drainage and grading?
  • Will you have underground utilities located before you dig?
  • Does any of this work need a permit, such as for a retaining wall, fence or tree removal?
  • What plants or materials do you recommend for our climate and my yard's sun and shade?
  • Do you guarantee plants or sod, and for what conditions?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?

When to call a pro for irrigation

  • Water that pools near the house or in the yard after rain
  • A tree that is leaning, cracked or has large dead branches over the house or a driveway
  • A retaining wall that is bulging, leaning or cracking

Irrigation permits and local rules

Some irrigation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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