Fences
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Fencing is one of the few jobs around a British home where the rule is a planning rule rather than a building control one, and where the numbers are worth knowing before you ring anybody. Under permitted development in England you may erect a fence, wall or gate up to two metres high, but only one metre where it is next to a highway used by vehicles or the footpath of such a highway. If what is already there exceeds those limits, the right to alter it does not extend to increasing its height.
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Those rights are not universal. They fall away if any part of the site is a listed building or within the curtilage of one, or where the fence forms a boundary with a neighbouring listed building, and a council can withdraw them with an article four direction or a planning condition. In a conservation area the twist catches people out in reverse: you might need permission to take a fence, wall or gate down.
The other half of a fencing job is the boundary itself, which in Britain is rarely recorded as precisely as owners assume, and the answer to who owns a given run of fence is often that nobody wrote it down. Scotland and Northern Ireland run their own permitted development orders, so the detail below changes once you cross those borders.
Fence heights in England: two metres, one metre by a highway, and what removes the right
The permitted development class that matters is the one covering the erection, construction, maintenance, improvement or alteration of a gate, fence, wall or other means of enclosure. The height limits in the order are the same ones the Planning Portal publishes: one metre above ground level where the enclosure is adjacent to a highway used, or designed to be used, by vehicular traffic, and two metres above ground level anywhere else. Maintenance or alteration of an existing enclosure is permitted up to its original height or the applicable limit, whichever is greater, which is why a run that is already too tall cannot lawfully be made taller when it is replaced.
There is one narrow exception in the order, and it is not a domestic one: at a school, two metres is allowed adjacent to a vehicular highway provided any portion above one metre does not obstruct sightlines. For houses the one metre figure stands, and it is measured from ground level rather than from the top of a new raised bed or a bank of imported topsoil.
Three things switch the right off entirely. Listed buildings are the first: the order excludes development within the curtilage of a listed building, and the Planning Portal adds that the right does not apply where the fence, wall, gate or other boundary forms a boundary with a neighbouring listed building. An article four direction or a planning condition is the second, and it is worth a phone call to the local planning authority rather than an assumption. The third is a conservation area, where permission may be needed to take an existing fence, wall or gate down, so the demolition rather than the replacement is what needs checking.
Scotland and Northern Ireland: the same heights, stricter conditions
The two metre and one metre figures travel surprisingly well across the United Kingdom, but the conditions attached to them do not. In Scotland the relevant class permits a gate, fence, wall or other means of enclosure that would not exceed two metres in height, reduced to one metre where it fronts a road, with the same bar on exceeding the original height when something is replaced. What is markedly different is the treatment of designated areas: the Scottish class is simply not available in a conservation area, nor within or bounding the curtilage of a listed building. A homeowner in a Scottish conservation area is therefore applying for permission for a fence that a neighbour a few streets outside it could put up freely.
Northern Ireland has its own order, whose minor operations part permits gates, fences, walls and other means of enclosure on the same pattern: not more than one metre above ground level where erected or constructed adjacent to a road used or designed to be used by vehicular traffic, and not more than two metres elsewhere, with alterations limited to the original height or those limits, whichever is greater. It too excludes development within the curtilage of a listed building, and it carves out private streets as designated by the department responsible for regional development.
Because the underlying orders are separate pieces of law, an installer quoting across a border should be asked which order they are working to. The safe habit everywhere is to confirm with the local planning authority before materials are ordered, particularly on a corner plot, a front boundary or anything facing a road.
Where the boundary actually runs, and who owns the fence
British homeowners routinely believe the boundary is a settled fact. GOV.UK is candid that it usually is not: most title plans do not show exact boundaries, you do not normally need the exact boundaries recorded anywhere, and there is usually no record of who owns the hedge, wall, tree or fence between two properties. The T-mark folklore, the idea that the posts always face the owner, and the assumption that the left-hand fence is yours are conventions rather than law.
Where it matters, there are two formal routes: a boundary agreement made with your neighbour, or an application for a determined boundary. Government guidance on neighbour disputes is blunt that arguments about the exact line between two properties can be difficult to solve and that you should get legal advice, and it points to the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors as a source of guidance on boundary and party wall questions.
One point of relief for fencing specifically: the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 does not reach a timber fence. The explanatory booklet defines a party fence wall as a dividing structure that is not part of a building, stands astride the boundary line between lands of different owners and is used to separate those lands, giving a masonry garden wall as the example, and states that the category does not include such things as wooden fences or hedges. A masonry wall on the line is a different matter and is covered in the retaining wall guide.
Fencing used on British properties: close board, panels, post and rail and railings
- Close board, also called feather edge: vertical boards nailed to arris rails, built in place rather than delivered as a unit, and repairable board by board when one splits.
- Lap and waney panels: the common quick screen between gardens, cheap to replace but the first thing to go in a gale when the posts or the fixings are marginal.
- Concrete posts and gravel boards: a very British compromise that keeps timber out of the wet ground, and the usual reason an old fence line has outlasted its panels.
- Post and rail: agricultural in origin, used on long or rural boundaries where stock control or a visual line matters more than privacy.
- Metal railings and estate fencing: traditional to Victorian and Georgian frontages, frequently the only thing a conservation officer will accept on a front boundary.
- Trellis and screening on top of a panel: it still counts towards the overall height, which is how a two metre fence quietly becomes an unlawful one.
- Hedging as an alternative: planning permission is not needed for hedges as such, though a planning condition or a covenant restricting planting can change that.
Why British fences fail: wet ground, wind and what sits on the highway side
Two forces account for most fence failures in this climate. The first is moisture at ground level, where a timber post spends its life in soil that rarely dries out for long; rot begins at the line where air meets wet ground rather than at the buried tip, which is why a post can snap at the surface while the part underground still looks sound. The second is wind. A close boarded fence is a solid sail, and a gale loads every post along the run at once, so the panels that blow out are usually telling you about the posts and the fixings rather than about the boards.
Ground conditions decide how long the repair lasts. Heavy clay holds water against a post and shrinks away from it in a dry summer; made ground and old garden rubble compact unevenly; a fence at the bottom of a slope takes the water from everything above it. A contractor who asks what the ground is like and where the water goes before quoting is doing the part of the job that is invisible afterwards.
What faces the road deserves particular care. Under the Highways Act 1980 a competent authority may serve notice requiring the removal of barbed wire on land adjoining a highway where it is a nuisance, and the Act treats wire with spikes or jagged projections as a nuisance when it is likely to be injurious to persons or animals lawfully using the highway. The notice sets a compliance period of not less than one month nor more than six months, and non-compliance can be taken to the magistrates' court, after which the authority may do what is necessary and recover its expenses. Barbed wire along a garden boundary beside a pavement is therefore not simply a matter of taste.
Signs a fence needs attention before the next gale
- A post that rocks when you push the fence, or one you can move by hand at the top.
- Timber that gives when pressed at ground level, or a dark, soft band where the post meets the soil.
- Panels leaning as a run rather than individually, which points at the posts rather than the panels.
- Rusted or missing nails, clips and brackets, particularly on a fence within reach of road spray.
- Gravel boards that have rotted or dropped, letting soil sit directly against the bottom of the boards.
- A fence line that has been raised by a new patio, deck or raised bed, which changes the height measured from ground level.
- Ivy or a mature climber carrying real weight on a fence that was never built to hold it.
Keeping a fence standing through British winters
- Keep soil, mulch and compost heaps off the boards, since anything piled against timber holds water against it all winter.
- Clear the base of the fence so water can drain away rather than stand along the run.
- Re-treat timber before the coating fails rather than after the grain has opened, and pay attention to the side that faces the prevailing weather.
- Tighten or replace fixings after a storm, because a loose bracket transfers the next gust to the post.
- Cut back climbers and overhanging branches that add weight or trap moisture against the boards.
- Repair one leaning post promptly, since neighbouring posts take its share of the wind load once it lets go.
- Keep a note of the boundary agreement or whatever was agreed with your neighbour, so the next replacement does not start the conversation again.
What to settle in writing before a fencing contractor starts
Fencing is not a licensed trade in the United Kingdom, so the protection comes from the paperwork rather than from a register. Get the specification written down: the height measured from ground level, the position relative to the boundary, post type and how the posts are set, gravel boards, rail counts, fixings, which side the finished face goes and what happens to the old fence and its concrete.
Two questions save most disputes. The first is whether the fence is going on the line by agreement with the neighbour or just inside your own land, because a fence built over the line can have to come out. The second is what the quotation assumes about the ground: a price based on driving posts into soft garden soil is a different price from one that meets a buried slab, an old footing or rubble a foot down.
LokalMatch is where the comparison starts. You describe the fencing job once, including the length of the run, what is there now, whether it faces a road and anything you know about the boundary, and fence contractors covering your postcode get in touch with you directly. The contractors pay for the requests they receive, so posting one costs a homeowner nothing. LokalMatch does not build fences and does not set prices, and it does not vet, rank or recommend anyone, so checking insurance, references and the written specification remains yours to do.
Fences: frequently asked questions
How high can a fence be without planning permission?
In England, two metres above ground level in most positions, and one metre where the fence is next to a highway used by vehicles or the footpath of such a highway. Those are permitted development limits, so they assume the rights have not been removed. If an existing fence, wall or gate already exceeds them, the height must not be increased when it is maintained or altered. Trellis, screening and anything else added on top counts towards the overall height.
Do the same fence heights apply in Scotland and Northern Ireland?
The heights are broadly the same and the conditions are not. Scotland's order permits up to two metres, or one metre where the enclosure fronts a road, but the right is unavailable in a conservation area and within or bounding the curtilage of a listed building. Northern Ireland's order permits one metre adjacent to a road used or designed to be used by vehicular traffic and two metres elsewhere, excludes listed building curtilages and carves out private streets. Ask the local planning authority which order applies to your address.
Who owns the fence between my house and next door?
Frequently there is no record at all. GOV.UK states that most title plans do not show exact boundaries and that there is usually no record of who owns the hedge, wall, tree or fence between two properties. Where it matters you can make a boundary agreement with your neighbour or apply for a determined boundary. Government guidance on neighbour disputes says arguments about the exact boundary can be difficult to resolve and advises getting legal advice, and points to RICS for guidance on boundary and party wall issues.
Does the Party Wall etc. Act apply to a garden fence?
Not to a wooden one. The Act's explanatory booklet defines a party fence wall as a structure that is not part of a building, stands astride the boundary line and separates the two lands, giving a masonry garden wall as its example, and says the category does not include such things as wooden fences or hedges. A masonry wall built astride the line is covered, and that brings a notice requirement with it. The Act applies to England and Wales only.
Can I put barbed wire along the top of my boundary?
Be careful where it adjoins a highway. Under the Highways Act 1980 a competent authority may serve notice requiring the removal of barbed wire on adjoining land where it is a nuisance, meaning it is likely to be injurious to persons or animals lawfully using the highway, and the Act includes wire with spikes or jagged projections. The notice period is not less than one month and not more than six months, and the authority can go to the magistrates' court and ultimately do the work and recover its costs.
I live in a conservation area. Do I need permission to replace my fence?
Ask before anything is removed. The Planning Portal notes that in a conservation area you might need permission to take down a fence, wall or gate, so the demolition can be the part that needs consent rather than the replacement. Permitted development rights can also be withdrawn by an article four direction or a planning condition, and they do not apply on a listed building, within its curtilage, or where the boundary adjoins a neighbouring listed building.
How does LokalMatch work for fencing?
You post the fencing job once, describing the length, the existing fence, whether it runs along a road and anything you know about the boundary, and fence contractors working in your postcode area contact you themselves. They pay for the requests; homeowners are not charged for posting one. LokalMatch does not carry out fencing work, does not set prices and does not vet, rank or recommend any contractor, so comparing specifications and checking insurance is still your part of the job.
Sources
- Planning Portal: Fences, gates and garden walls
- The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015, Schedule 2 Part 2 (gates, fences, walls)
- The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992, Schedule 1
- The Planning (General Permitted Development) Order (Northern Ireland) 2015, Schedule Part 3 (minor operations)
- Highways Act 1980, section 164: barbed wire adjoining a highway
- GOV.UK: Your property boundaries
- GOV.UK: Resolving neighbour disputes — high hedges, trees and boundaries
- GOV.UK: The Party Wall etc. Act 1996 explanatory booklet
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 14 September 2026. How we write and check our guides
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What affects the cost of fence
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Size and complexity of the piece or structure
- Wood species or material
- Custom design compared with standard sizes
- Hardware, railings and finishing
- Removal of what's there now
- Permits and drawings, where needed
How to compare fence contractors before you hire
- Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
- Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
- For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
- Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
- Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.
Questions to ask fence contractors before you hire
- Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
- What materials will you use, and why?
- Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
- Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
- How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
- What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?
Fence permits and local rules
Some fence work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
Permits and licensingSeasonal maintenance
This job is part of our home maintenance checklists for:
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