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Tarmac Driveways

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Tarmac is the everyday British name for a driveway surfaced in a bituminous mixture, and it is a slightly misleading one. The tar in the original tarmacadam was coal tar; what is laid on domestic drives now is asphalt, an aggregate bound with bitumen, a petroleum product. The distinction is not pedantry — it decides what the material is specified against, and it decides what happens to the old surface when a drive is dug up.

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A tarmac drive is quick to lay, quiet underfoot, easy to plough or shovel in winter, and unforgiving of a bad base. It goes down hot and is compacted while it is hot, which means the weather, the sequence and the crew all matter on the day in a way they do not with blocks. It also has a planning dimension in England, because a solid black surface is the archetypal impermeable front garden, and porous asphalt is the version that stays inside permitted development.

Most of what goes wrong with a tarmac drive is decided before the surfacing arrives: the depth of excavation, the sub-base, the edges, the falls and the drainage. A quotation that describes only the finish is describing the least important layer.

What tarmac actually is, and what porous asphalt changes

The material family is covered by the BS EN 13108 series of material specifications for bituminous mixtures. The common one is asphalt concrete, specified in BS EN 13108-1:2016, which covers mixtures for use on roads, airfields and other trafficked areas, used in surface courses, binder courses, regulating courses and bases. In domestic language, the binder course is the thicker, coarser layer that does the structural work, and the surface course is the finer layer you see and walk on. A drive laid as a single thin skin over a poor base is a surface course pretending to be a pavement.

Porous asphalt is the variant that matters for a front garden in England. The Planning Portal lists porous asphalt alongside gravel and permeable concrete block paving as a surfacing that allows water to drain through, and therefore needs no planning permission whatever the size of the drive. It works because the mixture is deliberately open, so the structure beneath it has to be designed to receive and store the water rather than simply to carry the load. It is not a finish choice applied at the end; it changes the whole build-up.

The other everyday choice is the finish itself: a smooth machine-laid surface, or a surface dressed with decorative chippings rolled into it. Chippings change the appearance and the texture, and they change the maintenance, since loose chippings migrate for the first season and bare patches show later.

Front gardens in England, and the SuDS approval that applies in Wales

England treats the front garden as a drainage question. A traditional impermeable driveway covering more than five square metres needs planning permission unless it provides for the water to run to a permeable area; a driveway of any size using porous or permeable surfacing, or draining to a lawn or border, does not. GOV.UK's guidance on the subject records that the change came in from 1 October 2008 through the General Permitted Development Order, and sets out the approaches available for controlling and reducing rainfall running into drains. The practical upshot for tarmac is that the choice is porous asphalt, a designed route to a permeable area, or an application.

Wales works through a different regime altogether, and it is the one most likely to surprise someone who has read English guidance. Schedule 3 to the Flood and Water Management Act 2010 was commenced in Wales on 7 January 2019, so that construction work with drainage implications must not be commenced unless the drainage system for the work has been approved by the SuDS Approving Body, the local authority acting in that role. The requirement applies where the development is more than a single dwelling house or where the construction area is 100 square metres or more, and construction work has drainage implications if the building or structure will affect the ability of the land to absorb rainwater. A large hard surface in Wales is therefore worth a call to the local authority's SAB before anyone orders material, because approval has to come before construction begins, not after.

Driving across a footway to reach any of it is a separate consent from the highway authority, which the driveway repair guide covers. Scotland deals with hard surfacing through its own permitted development rules, and a conservation area there changes the answer entirely.

How a tarmac drive is built, and what to watch for on the day

  • Excavation to the design depth, with the old surface and the spoil taken off site rather than buried in a border.
  • A sub-base built up and compacted in shallow lifts over a checked formation, since this is where a tarmac drive gets nearly all of its strength.
  • Edgings set on concrete before any surfacing arrives, because tarmac has no strength at an unsupported edge.
  • Levels set so that the finished surface falls away from the house and any threshold, and so that gullies and channels end up at the low point rather than beside it.
  • A binder course laid and compacted, then the surface course laid on top, each rolled while still hot enough to compact properly.
  • Joints kept to a minimum and formed deliberately, since a cold joint between two loads is where water gets in first.
  • Ironwork, manhole covers and gully gratings adjusted to the new level rather than surfaced around and left proud or drowned.
  • The surface left to cool and harden before vehicles go on it, and kept clear of sharp turning on the same spot in its first weeks.

Where the old surface goes: asphalt waste and coal tar

Resurfacing produces waste, and old bituminous material is not automatically ordinary rubble. The Environment Agency uses the term asphalt waste containing coal tar, abbreviated to AWCCT and carrying the waste code 17 03 01*, the asterisk marking it as hazardous. Its regulatory position statement RPS 157 on storing, treating and using asphalt waste requires AWCCT to be stored and treated separately from other waste, on an impermeable surface with sealed drainage, with the Environment Agency told each time the position statement is relied on. Treated material keeps the same hazardous code.

For a homeowner this is a question to ask rather than a rule to comply with personally: what is coming off, where is it going, and does the contractor know the difference. Older drives are the ones worth asking about, because coal tar binders belong to an earlier era of road and drive construction. Where a drive is simply being overlaid, nothing comes off at all, which is one of the quiet reasons overlay is popular and one of the reasons it is not always the right answer. The separate question of your own responsibility for waste leaving your property is covered in the garden maintenance guide, and the same logic applies to a load of planings.

RPS 157 is an Environment Agency document and so applies in England. Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland regulate waste through SEPA, Natural Resources Wales and the Northern Ireland Environment Agency respectively, so a contractor working outside England should be able to say which regulator's rules they are following.

Fretting, ruts and the failures that show up in year two

  • Fretting, where the surface loses its fine material and turns gritty and open, usually starting at the edges and around joints.
  • Ruts and depressions in the wheel tracks and where the car is parked, which point at the base rather than at the surfacing.
  • Softening and depressions where a heavy vehicle stood in hot weather, or where a caravan or trailer jockey wheel was left in one place.
  • Fuel and oil drips, which dissolve bitumen and leave a soft, sunken patch that will not recover on its own.
  • Edge break-up where there is no restraint, no kerb and nothing holding the last few centimetres against a lawn or border.
  • Tree roots lifting and cracking the surface, which is a design problem rather than a surfacing one and needs arboricultural advice before it is patched.
  • Standing water after rain, which means the falls are wrong or the gully is not where the low point actually is.
  • A porous drive that no longer drains, because the open structure has silted up or been sealed.

Laying tarmac in British weather, and the first year afterwards

Bituminous material is laid hot and has to be compacted before it cools, which makes British weather a genuine constraint rather than an excuse. Cold ground, standing water on the formation, rain during laying and a long haul from the plant all work against getting the material rolled at the right temperature, and under-compacted tarmac is the direct cause of the fretting that appears a couple of winters later. A contractor who postpones a day because conditions are wrong is protecting your drive, not inconveniencing you.

The first year matters too. A new surface stays relatively soft for a while and takes impressions: a jockey wheel, a motorcycle stand, a scaffold foot, a bin left in the same place through a hot spell. Turning the steering wheel of a stationary car scuffs the surface in its early weeks. Winter brings the opposite risk, with a steel-edged shovel or a snow plough catching a joint or an edge. None of this is a defect; all of it is avoidable if somebody mentions it, and a good contractor does.

What drives a tarmac driveway quote, and how LokalMatch fits in

The variables are mostly below the surface. What moves a tarmac quotation is how deep the excavation has to go and what the ground turns out to be, how much material leaves the site and what it is classified as, the sub-base specification, the length and type of edging, the number and thickness of bituminous layers, whether the mix is a conventional or a porous one, how much of the drainage has to be built or rebuilt, whether ironwork needs adjusting, and how easily a lorry and a roller can reach the work. A drive that can be laid in one continuous run is a different job from the same area reached through a narrow entrance in several loads.

LokalMatch handles only the introduction. Describe the driveway once — its rough size, what is on it now, whether you need it to be porous — add your postcode, and surfacing firms working in your area get in touch with you directly. There is no charge to homeowners, and the professionals pay for the requests they receive. LokalMatch does not lay driveways, has no hand in setting prices, and does not vet, rank or recommend any company that responds, so weigh up the build-up, the drainage and the waste arrangements alongside the figure.

Tarmac Driveways: frequently asked questions

Is tarmac the same as asphalt?

In everyday British use they mean the same driveway surface, but the names come from different binders. Tarmacadam used coal tar; modern material is asphalt, an aggregate bound with bitumen, and it is specified under the BS EN 13108 series, with asphalt concrete covered by BS EN 13108-1:2016 for surface courses, binder courses, regulating courses and bases. The distinction matters when an old surface is dug up, because coal tar changes how the waste must be handled.

Do I need planning permission for a tarmac drive in my front garden?

In England, not if it drains properly. Permission is needed for a traditional impermeable driveway of more than five square metres that does not provide for water to run to a permeable area, and the Planning Portal names porous asphalt among the surfacings that avoid the problem entirely, at any size. GOV.UK records that the change took effect from 1 October 2008 through the General Permitted Development Order. Check for a condition or an article 4 direction before assuming the right applies to your house.

I am in Wales. Are the rules different?

Yes, and significantly. Schedule 3 to the Flood and Water Management Act 2010 was commenced in Wales on 7 January 2019, so construction work with drainage implications must not begin until the drainage system has been approved by the SuDS Approving Body at the local authority. It applies where the development is more than a single dwelling house or the construction area is 100 square metres or more, with construction work counting as having drainage implications if it affects the land's ability to absorb rainwater. Ask the council's SAB before work is booked.

What happens to the old surface when my drive is dug up?

It becomes waste, and older bituminous material can be hazardous. The Environment Agency's regulatory position statement RPS 157 uses the term asphalt waste containing coal tar, waste code 17 03 01*, and requires it to be stored and treated separately from other waste on an impermeable surface with sealed drainage, with the Agency notified each time the position statement is used. Ask your contractor what is coming off, where it is going and who is carrying it.

Can a new surface just be laid over the old one?

Sometimes, and it is cheaper because nothing is excavated and nothing leaves the site. It only works where the existing surface and the base beneath it are sound, the levels can take the extra thickness without drowning a threshold or an air brick, and the drainage still works afterwards. Overlaying a drive that is rutting because its sub-base has failed simply buys a year or two, and raises the level so that the next repair is harder.

Why has my tarmac gone gritty and loose at the edges?

That is fretting, and it normally traces back to compaction. Material that cooled before it was properly rolled, a thin surface course over a weak base, or an unsupported edge with nothing holding it all produce the same result, usually starting at edges and joints where the material was thinnest and coolest. Small areas can be cut out and patched; widespread fretting is a resurfacing job, and worth diagnosing before more money is spent on it.

Sources

  1. Planning Portal: Paving your front garden
  2. GOV.UK: Permeable surfacing of front gardens guidance
  3. GOV.WALES: Implementation of Schedule 3 to the Flood and Water Management Act 2010, frequently asked questions
  4. GOV.UK: Storing, treating and using asphalt waste, RPS 157
  5. BSI: BS EN 13108-1:2016 Bituminous mixtures. Asphalt concrete

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed 21 September 2026. How we write and check our guides

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What affects the cost of asphalt driveway

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and thickness of the area
  • Removal of the old surface
  • Excavation and base preparation
  • Finish, colour or pattern
  • Access for equipment and trucks
  • Steps, curves, drains or retaining edges

How to compare paving contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who explains how they'll prepare the base, since most concrete and interlock problems start underneath.
  • Ask how they'll slope the surface so water drains away from the house.
  • Get a written quote that covers excavation, base material, reinforcement, finish and removal of the old surface.
  • Look at jobs they finished a few seasons ago to see how they've held up through freeze and thaw.
  • Ask whether they'll call to have underground utilities located before digging.

Questions to ask paving contractors before you hire

  • How deep will you excavate, and what base will you put down?
  • Will you use reinforcement, and what kind?
  • How will you make sure water drains away from the house?
  • Does this work need a permit from my municipality?
  • How soon can the surface be walked on or driven on after it's done?
  • What warranty do you offer for cracking, settling or heaving?

When to call a pro for asphalt driveway

  • Cracks that are widening or slabs that have sunk or lifted
  • Water pooling against the foundation after rain
  • Trip hazards on steps, walkways or driveways

Asphalt driveway permits and local rules

Some asphalt driveway work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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