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Wallpaper Installation

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Wallpaper installation, or paperhanging, covers everything from a single accent wall to a whole room of patterned paper, grasscloth or textured vinyl. A professional installer measures, checks the rolls, prepares and primes the walls, then hangs each strip plumb, matches the pattern across the seams and trims cleanly at ceilings, baseboards, windows and outlets. The best work is hard to spot: no visible seams, no bubbles and a pattern that runs unbroken around the room.

Most of the result depends on the wall. Paper shows every bump, patch and ridge beneath it, and it won't stay up on a dusty, glossy or damp surface. Older walls add their own challenges: layers of old paper, crumbling plaster and, in some homes, materials that shouldn't be sanded without testing first.

This page covers wallpaper types, wall prep, pattern matching and ordering, bathrooms and humidity, removal and wall repair, asbestos in older wall materials, and when to hire a specialist paperhanger rather than a painter.

Types of wallpaper: traditional, prepasted, peel-and-stick, vinyl and grasscloth

The type of wallcovering decides how it's hung, how it handles moisture and how hard it will be to remove later. Ask the installer to look at the product before you order, since some specialty papers need techniques or adhesives that not every painter uses.

  • Traditional paper: pasted by the installer with an adhesive chosen for the paper; it offers the widest range of prints but tears and stains more easily.
  • Prepasted wallpaper: the adhesive is already on the back and is activated with water; convenient, though many installers still add paste for a stronger bond on some walls.
  • Peel-and-stick wallpaper: a self-adhesive film suited to rentals, small areas and furniture, but less forgiving on textured walls and in humid rooms.
  • Vinyl and vinyl-coated papers: washable and more resistant to moisture and scuffs, a common choice for kitchens, hallways and bathrooms.
  • Non-woven papers: the paste goes on the wall rather than the paper, and many peel off dry in full strips when it's time for a change.
  • Grasscloth and natural fibres: woven grass, sisal or paper with a rich texture, but the seams show by nature, colour varies between strips and water marks them.

Preparing walls for wallpaper: repairs, skim coating and wallpaper primer

Wallpaper needs a wall that's smooth, sound, clean and evenly sealed. The right primer matters more than many owners expect: a primer designed for wallcoverings helps the paste grab, lets the installer slide strips into position and makes the next removal far easier, because the paper comes off without tearing the drywall's paper face.

  • Repairs: holes, cracks and dents filled and sanded, and loose paint scraped back to a firm edge.
  • Skim coat: rough, patched or textured walls covered with a thin layer of joint compound and sanded smooth, since paper telegraphs every ridge.
  • New drywall: taped, finished and primed, never papered bare, or the adhesive bonds to the drywall face and removal will damage it later.
  • Primer designed for wallpaper: applied over the whole area once repairs are dry, sometimes tinted close to the paper's background so seams don't flash white.
  • Layout: the plumb line and starting point planned so the pattern is centred on the focal wall and the last, mismatched seam lands in a discreet corner.

Pattern matching and measuring for wallpaper: repeat, match type and waste

Patterned paper has a repeat, the distance before the design starts over, and a match type that sets how neighbouring strips line up. A straight match lines up at the same height across strips; a drop match shifts every other strip, which uses more paper. Both are printed on the roll label, along with the batch or lot number.

Because every strip has to start at the same point in the pattern, large repeats create more offcuts, and a room broken up by windows, doors and corners wastes more than one long, plain wall. A good installer measures the room, factors in the repeat and gives you a roll count rather than a simple area. Order everything from one batch, since colour can differ between print runs, and keep a spare roll for repairs.

Wallpaper in bathrooms and humid rooms: ventilation, vinyl and seasonal humidity

Steam is wallpaper's main enemy. In a bathroom that fills with moisture, seams can lift, paste can soften and mould can grow behind the paper where nobody sees it. Choose a vinyl or other product the maker recommends for humid rooms, use a mildew-resistant paste if the manufacturer calls for one, and keep paper away from direct splashes around tubs, showers and sinks, where tile or paint are better suited.

Ventilation matters as much as the product: an exhaust fan that works, run during and after showers, protects both the paper and the wall behind it. Seasonal humidity plays a part too in Canadian homes, where dry, heated winter air and humid summers make paper and walls move slightly. Hanging in stable indoor conditions, and letting the rolls sit in the room beforehand if the maker advises it, reduces seams that open later.

Wallpaper removal: steaming, scoring and repairing the drywall afterward

Papering over old wallpaper is tempting but rarely wise: the new paste can loosen the old layer, seams show through and the problem is simply handed to the next owner. Removal is usually part of the job, and how easily it goes depends on the paper and on whether the wall was primed before it was first papered.

  • Dry stripping: many non-woven and some vinyl papers peel away in full sheets, leaving a backing that can then be soaked off.
  • Scoring: a scoring tool perforates water-resistant papers so a removal solution or steam can reach the paste, used gently to avoid gouging the wall.
  • Steaming: a steamer loosens stubborn or multi-layer paper, but too much heat and water can soften drywall and plaster.
  • Paste residue: washed off completely, since leftover paste can make new paint crackle or new paper fail.
  • Torn drywall: exposed brown paper sealed with a suitable primer before patching, because joint compound over it tends to bubble; for bigger damage, see the drywall repair page.

Asbestos in old plaster, paint and joint compound: test before stripping or sanding

Removing old wallpaper in an older home often means scraping, sanding and patching the wall underneath, and that's where the risk lies. Health Canada lists cement and plaster, paint, drywall and spackling among the home materials that may contain asbestos, and notes that asbestos was mainly used in homes before 1990. Very old wall coverings can sit directly on those materials.

Health Canada says materials left undisturbed pose no significant health risk, and advises having a professional test for asbestos before renovating, then hiring a qualified asbestos removal specialist if it's found. So before steaming, scraping or sanding walls from that era, have samples analyzed. In a home built before 1960, the painted walls under the paper may also hide lead-based paint, another reason not to sand before testing.

Hiring a paperhanger vs a painter for wallpaper installation

Many painters hang straightforward papers well, and they're a natural fit when the job also involves repairs, priming and painting the trim. A specialist paperhanger works with wallcoverings every day and is the safer choice for costly, hand-printed or delicate papers, large repeats, grasscloth, murals, stairwells and ceilings. Whoever you hire, the same questions apply.

  • Ask who handles removal of the old paper and wall repair, and whether skim coating is included or billed separately.
  • Confirm who orders the rolls and who's responsible if the count comes up short or a batch doesn't match.
  • Have the installer inspect the rolls before hanging, since many makers won't accept claims on paper that's already on the wall.
  • In Quebec, wall coverings fall under the same RBQ subclass 9.0 as painting, so ask for the licence number and check it in the RBQ register.

Wallpaper Installation: frequently asked questions

Can wallpaper go over painted walls?

Yes, if the paint is sound, clean and not too glossy, and the wall gets a wallpaper primer first. Paper shouldn't go over peeling paint, damp walls or fresh paint that hasn't had the drying time its label calls for.

Is peel-and-stick wallpaper worth it?

For a rental, a small accent wall, shelves or a short-term look, it can be. It's harder to align on large walls, may not stick well to textured or freshly painted surfaces and can lift in humid rooms. Test a piece in a hidden spot and follow the maker's directions for wall prep.

Why are my wallpaper seams lifting or opening?

Common causes are a wall that wasn't primed, too little paste at the edges, humidity from a poorly ventilated bathroom, or paper that shrank as it dried. Lifted edges can often be reglued with seam adhesive; gaps that keep opening point to a moisture or prep problem.

Can old wallpaper be painted over instead of removed?

It's sometimes done as a last resort on well-bonded paper, with a sealing primer that won't soften the paste, but seams and texture usually show and removal becomes much harder later. Taking the paper off is almost always the better choice.

Sources

  1. Asbestos and your health — Health Canada
  2. Lead-based paint — Health Canada
  3. Subclass 9.0, Entrepreneur en travaux de finition — Régie du bâtiment du Québec
  4. Check a contractor's licence — Régie du bâtiment du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of wallpaper installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and ceiling height
  • Condition of the walls, trim or siding
  • Amount of prep and repairs
  • Number of colours and coats
  • Paint quality
  • Access, including stairwells and upper floors

How to compare wallpaper installers before you hire

  • Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
  • Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
  • Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
  • In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
  • Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.

Questions to ask wallpaper installers before you hire

  • What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
  • How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
  • Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
  • How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?

Wallpaper installation permits and local rules

Some wallpaper installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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