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Staining

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Stain and seal decks, fences and other wood. Tell us about your staining project and we’ll help you find local painters who serve your area.

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Wood stain colours and protects exterior wood while letting some or all of its character show: decks, fences, railings, pergolas, cedar siding, log walls and outdoor furniture. Unlike paint, most stains soak into the wood or form only a thin film, so they wear gradually and can usually be renewed without scraping the whole surface. Painters, deck specialists and some fence and deck builders offer staining, and the same trades often stain interior wood too.

Staining looks simple, which is why so much of it fails early. The product has to suit the wood and its exposure, the surface has to be clean, bright and dry enough to absorb it, and it has to go on in the weather the label calls for. On a deck, where sun, standing water, snow and foot traffic all attack the finish, those choices decide whether the result lasts or starts flaking in patches by the next summer.

This page compares stain with paint and clear sealers, then explains opacity levels, oil- and water-based products, prep, weather, how exposure affects upkeep, and the fire risk of oily rags. For the washing step, see the pressure washing page; for siding and trim, see the exterior painting page.

Wood stain vs paint vs clear sealer: what each does for decks and fences

The three products protect wood in different ways. A clear sealer or water repellent mainly slows water absorption and keeps the natural colour for a while, but with little or no pigment it does little against the sun, so the wood underneath still greys. Stain adds pigment that shades the wood from UV rays while leaving its texture visible. Paint forms a full film that hides the wood entirely, and on a walking surface that film is the most likely to peel.

  • Clear sealer: suits new cedar or a freshly cleaned deck when you want the natural look and accept renewing it often.
  • Stain: the usual middle ground for decks, fences and wood siding, balancing appearance, sun protection and easy recoating.
  • Paint: better kept for railings, trim, lattice and other vertical surfaces than for deck boards that take foot traffic and piled snow.

Transparent, semi-transparent and solid stains: how much of the wood you want to see

Opacity is the main decision with stain. The more pigment a stain carries, the better it shields the wood from the sun and the longer its colour holds, but the less of the grain shows. Lighter stains fade and wear away rather than peel, while the most opaque ones behave more like paint.

  • Transparent stains: a light tint that enriches the natural colour and shows all of the grain, with the least sun protection and the most frequent upkeep.
  • Semi-transparent stains: enough pigment to even out colour and slow greying while the grain still shows, a common pick for cedar and newer decks.
  • Semi-solid stains: a heavier tint that hides much of the grain and helps older boards blend with newer replacements.
  • Solid stains: hide the grain but keep the wood's texture, cover weathered or mismatched boards, and can peel on horizontal surfaces much as paint does.

Oil-based vs water-based wood stains: penetration, drying and cleanup

Both types can perform well; what matters is choosing one suited to the wood, the existing finish and the conditions on application day. Switching from one type to the other over an old coat is where trouble often starts, so the existing product should be identified or removed first.

  • Oil-based stains: soak deep into dry wood, bring out the grain and tend to wear away gradually, but dry slowly and leave rags and brushes that need careful handling.
  • Water-based stains: dry faster, clean up with water, hold their colour well and generally smell less, though they can sit on the surface of dense or poorly prepared wood.
  • Hybrid products: water-based formulas with added oils or alkyds aim to combine penetration with easier cleanup; follow the label as with any other stain.
  • Tropical hardwood decking: dense species absorb very little ordinary stain and usually call for an oil made for hardwood decks.

Preparing a deck or fence for stain: cleaning, stripping, brightening and sanding

Stain can only soak into wood that's clean, open and dry. Grey, weathered fibres, mildew, old coatings and the smooth glaze on some new lumber all keep it on the surface, where it wears or flakes quickly. If the job includes washing, read the cautions on the pressure washing page first: excessive pressure raises and splinters the grain, and stain then soaks in unevenly.

  • Repairs first: loose boards refastened, popped screws reset, and split or soft boards replaced before any cleaning.
  • Cleaning: a wood cleaner with a scrub brush or a low-pressure rinse removes dirt, mildew and the grey surface layer.
  • Stripping: old stain that's peeling or blotchy is removed with a suitable stripper, since new stain won't bond over a failing film.
  • Brightening: a wood brightener applied after cleaning or stripping restores the wood's colour and helps neutralize cleaner residue.
  • Sanding: raised fibres, splinters and mill glaze on new boards are sanded, especially on railings and stair treads that hands and bare feet touch.
  • Drying: the wood is left until it readily absorbs water again, since stain on damp wood can blotch, peel or fail to cure.

Weather for deck and fence staining: temperature, sun, rain and dew

Every stain label sets its own limits for air and surface temperature, humidity and the rain-free period needed after application, and those limits are the rule for your job. A careful crew checks the forecast for the following night and day as well as the working hours, because a shower on stain that hasn't set can spot it or wash it out.

Deck boards in direct sun can get far hotter than the air, and stain on a hot surface can dry before it soaks in, leaving lap marks. Crews often start on the shaded side, work in the morning once the dew has dried or later in the afternoon, and stain a few boards at a time along their full length. In most of Canada, that confines staining to the warmer months, and a wet summer can shrink the window further.

How often to restain a deck or fence: exposure matters more than the calendar

No honest painter can promise a fixed number of years. How long a stain lasts depends on its opacity, the wood, the quality of the prep and, above all, exposure. Manufacturers sometimes give their own estimates on the label, but the wood itself tells you when it's time.

  • Horizontal surfaces such as deck floors, stair treads and railing caps wear much faster than fence boards and siding, which shed water.
  • South- and west-facing wood gets the most sun and fades first, while shaded, damp corners are more prone to mildew.
  • Snow left piled on a deck, grit tracked in on boots and furniture dragged across the boards all shorten a finish's life.
  • Time to recoat: water soaks in instead of beading, the colour has faded or greyed, or bare wood shows in traffic paths.
  • A maintenance coat of the same product after a light cleaning, before the old finish fails, is far less work than stripping and starting over.

Oily stain rags can catch fire on their own: safe handling and disposal

Rags, cloths and pads used with oil-based stains, oils and varnishes can start a fire with no flame or spark nearby. The fire safety guidance of the District of West Vancouver explains that oily rags give off heat as they dry, and that when they're piled up or folded, the trapped heat and oxygen can lead to spontaneous combustion. The fire prevention service of the Ville d'Alma describes the same chemical reaction with oxygen in the air, which can build up enough heat to set the cloth alight.

West Vancouver advises hanging used rags outside to dry in a safe area or spreading them flat, weighted down if outdoors, or soaking them in water in a metal container with a sealed lid, then taking them to a disposal facility that accepts them. Alma recommends self-closing, airtight metal containers and a hazardous waste collection service for disposal. Never leave rags balled up in a pail, a garbage bag or a corner of the garage, and ask the crew how they deal with theirs at the end of each day.

Staining: frequently asked questions

How soon can I stain a new pressure-treated deck?

Rarely right away: treated lumber often arrives wet and needs time to dry before it can absorb stain. The stain label gives its own guidance, and a simple test helps: sprinkle water on the boards, and if it soaks in rather than beading, the wood is usually ready.

Can I put a see-through stain over paint or solid stain?

No: it can't soak into wood that's already sealed under a film. You can recoat with a compatible solid stain or paint, or have the old finish stripped back to bare wood if you want the grain to show again.

Why did my deck stain peel after one winter?

The usual causes are stain applied over dirty, damp or previously sealed wood, too many coats building a film on a walking surface, or a solid stain on boards that stay wet. Snow and freeze–thaw then lift whatever isn't firmly bonded. The fix is to remove the loose finish, prepare the wood properly and choose a product suited to a horizontal surface.

Do painters also stain interior trim, stairs and floors?

Many stain interior trim, doors, stair rails and new woodwork, usually before a clear protective finish. Floors are different: staining a hardwood floor is part of sanding and refinishing, covered on the hardwood refinishing page. Indoors, fumes matter more, and Health Canada recommends increasing ventilation when using paints and varnishes.

Sources

  1. Oily or gas-soaked rags — District of West Vancouver
  2. Oil- or solvent-soaked materials: good habits to avoid the risks — Ville d'Alma
  3. Volatile organic compounds — Health Canada

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of staining

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and ceiling height
  • Condition of the walls, trim or siding
  • Amount of prep and repairs
  • Number of colours and coats
  • Paint quality
  • Access, including stairwells and upper floors

How to compare painters before you hire

  • Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
  • Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
  • Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
  • In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
  • Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.

Questions to ask painters before you hire

  • What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
  • How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
  • Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
  • How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?

Staining permits and local rules

Some staining work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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