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Insulation Contractors

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Attic, wall, basement and spray foam insulation. Tell us about your insulation project and we’ll help you find local insulation contractors who serve your area.

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An insulation contractor works on the building envelope: the walls, roof, foundation and floors that separate heated rooms from the outdoors. In a Canadian winter, heat escapes through every part of that shell, by conduction through thin or missing insulation and by warm air leaking out through cracks and gaps. The contractor's job is to slow both, choosing the right material for each part of the house and installing it without trapping moisture.

Many homeowners think of insulation as an attic job, and the attic is often the easiest place to start, but older houses frequently have empty or partly filled wall cavities, bare basement walls, uninsulated rim joists and cold crawl spaces. Insulating those areas makes rooms more comfortable, cuts drafts and eases the load on heating and cooling equipment. It also changes how the house handles air and moisture, which is why a careful contractor plans air sealing, vapour control and ventilation together.

This page covers the whole house. For the attic itself, including ice dams and roof ventilation, see our attic insulation page.

Where a house loses heat, and signs the building envelope needs work

Heat always moves toward the cold, so the envelope loses it wherever insulation is thin, missing or compressed, and wherever framing, concrete or metal forms a bridge straight to the outside. Air leakage adds to the loss: Natural Resources Canada lists typical leakage points such as the joint between the sill plate and the foundation, holes for wires and pipes, electrical outlets, window and door frames, attic hatches and chimneys.

  • Exterior walls, floors over a garage or the basement ceiling feel cold to the touch in winter.
  • Drafts come from outlets, baseboards or window and door trim on windy days.
  • Condensation, frost or mould appears in wall corners, in closets on exterior walls or along the top of the basement walls.

Types of home insulation: batts, blown-in cellulose and fibreglass, spray foam and rigid board

Insulating value is given as RSI in metric units or as an R-value in imperial units, as in Natural Resources Canada's retrofit guide; either way, a higher number means more resistance to heat flow. The right material depends on access, moisture and whether it must also stop air.

  • Glass fibre or mineral fibre batts fit open wall and floor cavities during a renovation, and they only perform as rated when they fill the space completely, with no gaps or compression.
  • Blown-in cellulose, made from treated shredded paper, or loose-fill glass or mineral fibre can be dense-packed into closed wall cavities through small holes, filling voids around wires and blocking.
  • Closed-cell spray polyurethane foam insulates and seals air leaks in one layer, which suits rim joists and irregular spots; open-cell foam expands more but, as NRCan notes, can't act as a vapour barrier.
  • Rigid boards such as expanded or extruded polystyrene, polyisocyanurate and mineral fibre board go on basement walls, under slabs and on the outside of walls, where they also reduce heat loss through the framing.
  • Urea formaldehyde foam insulation, or UFFI, may still turn up in some older walls; NRCan notes that it was prohibited in Canada in 1980.

Air sealing first: how an insulation contractor approaches a whole house

Natural Resources Canada calls air leakage control the single most important retrofit activity and says it should be considered first in any upgrade strategy. Fibrous insulation slows heat but doesn't stop air, so an unsealed house keeps pushing warm, moist air into its walls and attic, where it can condense.

  • Assessment: ideally an EnerGuide evaluation with a blower door test, or at least a walkthrough from basement to attic to find cold spots, leaks, moisture and hazards.
  • Hazards first: suspected vermiculite, asbestos or mould, old or damaged wiring and active water leaks are handled by the right professionals before any insulation goes in.
  • Air sealing: the rim joist area, service penetrations, the attic floor and other leakage paths are sealed with caulking, gaskets, tape, foam or rigid material suited to each spot.
  • Insulation by area: walls, basement, crawl space and attic each get the material that suits them, with the air and vapour control layers joined where they meet.
  • Ventilation and combustion check: once the house is tighter, the contractor or an HVAC technician confirms that ventilation is adequate and that fuel-burning appliances vent properly.

Insulating existing walls: blown-in cavities, interior retrofits and exterior insulation

Walls are the hardest part of an existing house to insulate because they are closed. When the finishes are sound, a contractor can drill small holes and dense-pack cellulose, glass fibre or an approved foam into each cavity; NRCan advises writing the manufacturer's recommended density into the contract, since too little leaves voids and too much can bulge the wall. Shallow older stud cavities limit the gain.

When walls are gutted or the siding comes off, a deeper upgrade is possible: new batts or spray foam with a continuous air and vapour barrier inside, or rigid insulation and a new air barrier outside, which NRCan notes lets the existing interior vapour barrier stay. Either way, fix moisture or structural problems such as rot, mould or out-of-square windows first, and never fill the drainage cavity behind brick veneer or plug its drain holes.

Basement, crawl space and rim joist insulation

Below grade, moisture comes first. NRCan advises against insulating a basement from the inside while it shows leaks, dampness, efflorescence or blistering paint, because interior insulation makes the foundation colder and can hide the water. Exterior insulation protects the foundation but requires excavation, so it usually goes with waterproofing or drainage work; interior insulation can be done in any season and fits a basement finish.

The rim joist, the band of framing on top of the foundation under the main floor, is one of the coldest and leakiest spots in many houses. NRCan describes sealing every joint between the subfloor, joists and foundation before insulating, with the air and vapour barrier continuous from the wall into this header space; spray foam applied by a certified installer often does both. In a crawl space, NRCan generally favours insulating the walls rather than the floor above, over a ground cover of 0.10 mm (4 mil) polyethylene overlapped, caulked and taped at the seams.

Ventilation, winter humidity and combustion safety after tightening a house

A tighter house keeps more moisture inside. NRCan warns that as the envelope is tightened, household humidity rises and can create condensation and moisture problems, which is why controllable whole-house ventilation, such as a heat recovery ventilator or properly sized exhaust fans, belongs in a thorough air sealing job. Winter is when this shows: frost in window corners or damp closets after a retrofit are signs the ventilation needs attention.

Fuel-burning appliances need air as well. NRCan explains that furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces and wood stoves need combustion air, and that in a closed-up house, exhaust fans can reverse the flow in a chimney or vent and spill combustion gases indoors. After major air sealing, have a qualified technician test naturally vented appliances for backdrafting, keep working smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, and consider sealed-combustion, direct-vent equipment when those appliances are replaced.

Vermiculite, asbestos and old insulation in walls: what to leave alone

Health Canada notes that vermiculite-based insulation may contain asbestos and that it can be found in walls as well as attics. If you have it, don't disturb it or try to remove it yourself, and hire professionals trained to handle asbestos before any renovation that could reach it, including drilling into a wall to blow in new insulation. Health Canada adds that, before 1990, asbestos was mainly used to insulate buildings and homes against cold and noise, and it lists pipe and tank insulation, furnaces and heating systems among the places where it may turn up.

Energy audits and insulation rebates: EnerGuide evaluations and current programs

An EnerGuide home evaluation is the most useful starting point for a whole-house insulation project. An energy advisor registered with Natural Resources Canada, representing the service organization you choose, visits the house, measures its airtightness with a blower door test, records the insulation levels of the walls, ceilings and basement along with the heating equipment, and gives you an EnerGuide rating and a report of recommended upgrades. Many incentive programs require this evaluation before the work starts and a second one afterward.

Programs change often, so check what is open when you plan the work. Quebec's Rénoclimat program, which was active when this page was reviewed, pairs evaluations before and after the retrofits with financial assistance for insulation, airtightness and other upgrades. The federal Canada Greener Homes Affordability Program was also delivering no-cost retrofits, such as insulation, to low-to-median-income households through participating provinces and territories, including Quebec, with applications made through the provincial or territorial program.

Insulation Contractors: frequently asked questions

Should I insulate my basement from the inside or the outside?

It depends on the foundation and what else is planned. Exterior insulation keeps the foundation warm and fits naturally when the walls are dug out for waterproofing or drainage. Interior insulation is less disruptive and works well during a basement finish, provided the walls are dry. If there are leaks or damp spots, fix them first.

Can walls be insulated without removing the drywall?

Usually, yes. The contractor drills small holes, dense-packs cellulose, glass fibre or an approved foam into each cavity, then plugs and patches the holes. It works best when cavities are empty or partly filled and the wiring is in good condition. The wall should be checked for vermiculite and moisture first.

Is spray foam insulation safe to install in an occupied home?

Health Canada notes that MDI-based products such as polyurethane spray foam may cause breathing problems and skin sensitivities. Spray foam is a job for a certified installer trained on the specific product, who controls the work area and tells you when to leave and when it is safe to come back. Follow those instructions closely.

Does an insulation contractor need a licence in Quebec?

Yes. Anyone doing residential renovation work for you in Quebec must hold an RBQ licence with the right subclass, and insulation falls under specialized contractor subclass 7.0, insulation, waterproofing, roofing and siding. Ask for the licence number and check it in the RBQ's register. In other provinces, requirements vary, so check locally.

Sources

  1. Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 3: Materials
  2. Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 4: Comprehensive air leakage control
  3. Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 6: Basement insulation, floors, walls and crawl spaces
  4. Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 7: Insulating walls
  5. Natural Resources Canada: Combustion gases in your home
  6. Natural Resources Canada: EnerGuide energy efficiency home evaluations
  7. Health Canada: Asbestos and your health
  8. Health Canada: Methylenediphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) substances
  9. Government of Québec: Rénoclimat
  10. Natural Resources Canada: Canada Greener Homes Affordability Program
  11. RBQ: Specialized contractor licence subclasses

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of insulation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
  • Type of insulation
  • Removal of old insulation
  • Air sealing work
  • Access to the space
  • Ventilation changes

How to compare insulation contractors before you hire

  • Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
  • Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
  • Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
  • For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
  • Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.

Questions to ask insulation contractors before you hire

  • What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
  • Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
  • How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
  • What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
  • For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
  • Does this work need a permit or an inspection?

When to call a pro for insulation

  • Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
  • Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
  • Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.

Insulation permits and local rules

Some insulation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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