Blown-In Insulation
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Blown-in insulation is loose-fill material, usually cellulose or fibreglass and sometimes mineral wool, that a machine breaks up and pushes through a long hose into the space to be insulated. In an attic it settles into an even blanket over and between the joists, covering wires, blocking and awkward corners where batts would leave gaps. In a closed wall it can be packed tightly into each cavity through small holes, without opening the drywall or removing the siding.
It is one of the most common ways to bring an older Canadian home closer to current insulation levels, and a typical attic top-up disturbs very little of the house. The result depends far more on the preparation than on the blowing itself: leaks in the ceiling sealed first, the eaves kept open for ventilation, hot surfaces protected, and the right amount of material installed to a depth you can check.
This page covers attic top-ups and dense-packed walls, the three main materials, the preparation that matters most, settling, vermiculite, ventilation and current grants.
Blown-in attic top-ups vs dense-pack wall insulation
In an open attic, loose fill is blown at a fairly low density, a bit like a thick layer of snow over the ceiling. The installer starts in the far corners and works back toward the hatch, building an even depth over the old insulation when that layer is dry and clean. This is the typical top-up: quick, tidy and easy to check, because you can see the finished surface and measure it.
Walls are a different job. The crew drills holes, from inside or outside, and packs each cavity much more tightly so the material doesn't slump; Natural Resources Canada advises putting the manufacturer's recommended density in the contract, and notes that cathedral ceilings and flat roofs can be dense-packed too. Before filling, the contractor should confirm that the cavities are dry, the wiring is sound and the holes lead into stud cavities, never into the air space behind brick veneer, which must stay open to drain.
Cellulose vs fibreglass vs mineral wool: choosing a blown-in insulation
All three are fibrous: they slow heat but let air through, so none replaces air sealing, and all lose much of their effectiveness when wet, so roof leaks and fans venting into the attic are fixed first. Each product's label gives the depth or density needed for a given insulating value.
- Cellulose is shredded newsprint treated to resist fire and fungal growth, as Natural Resources Canada describes it; its fine particles fill small gaps around nails and wires, and NRCan advises allowing for settling.
- Loose-fill fibreglass is light and fluffy, so it can cover a large attic without loading the ceiling much, but it must be blown to the depth the manufacturer specifies, since a thinner layer gives a lower insulating value.
- Mineral wool, made from rock or slag, doesn't support combustion; NRCan notes it may be acceptable around masonry chimneys, though the required clearances still apply.
Preparing an attic for blown-in insulation: air sealing, baffles, dams and IC-rated lights
Once loose fill is down, the ceiling's leaks are buried and hard to reach, so preparation comes first; Natural Resources Canada's retrofit guide puts air leakage control at the head of any upgrade.
- Air sealing: gaps around the plumbing stack, wiring holes, the tops of partition walls and duct penetrations are sealed from the attic side, with non-combustible material near heat sources.
- Baffles at the eaves: a baffle between each pair of rafters keeps the blown material out of the soffit vents and holds an air channel open; NRCan calls for 38 to 50 mm of space between the top of the insulation and the roof sheathing above the exterior walls.
- Hatch dam: a rigid collar is built around the opening so loose fill doesn't pour into the house when the attic hatch is lifted, and the hatch itself is weatherstripped and insulated.
- Chimney dams: NRCan describes a barrier 75 mm from the face of a masonry chimney that rises at least 75 mm above the top of the insulation, and an air space of at least 75 mm around a metal chimney.
- Recessed lights: standard pot lights are hard to air seal and can become a fire hazard once buried, so NRCan recommends approved airtight fixtures or approved covers, and only fixtures rated for contact with insulation, usually marked IC, or covered ones should be buried.
- Exhaust fans and ducts: bathroom and kitchen fans are ducted outdoors rather than into the attic, as Health Canada also advises, and ducts in the attic are sealed before they are buried.
Settling and depth markers: checking how much blown-in insulation you got
Loose fill settles after it is installed, some products more than others, as the fibres pack down under their own weight. Natural Resources Canada advises allowing for settling and suggests that the contract state the minimum settled depth, not only the depth on the day the crew leaves.
Depth markers make the result easy to check. Before blowing, the installer fixes rulers or marked pieces of wood to the framing across the attic; NRCan's guide describes wood indicators nailed to the joists. Afterward, every marker should show the target depth, with an even surface rather than mounds near the hatch and thin spots at the edges. Call the contractor back if you notice any of the following.
- The tops of the joists show through the insulation some time after the job.
- Hollows appear where someone walked, stored boxes or pushed the insulation aside for electrical work or repairs.
- The insulation is matted, stained or damp, which points to a roof or air leak rather than ordinary settling.
Vermiculite under the old insulation: check before blowing anything in
Blowing new material into an old attic means working in, and often stirring up, whatever is already there. Health Canada notes that vermiculite insulation may contain asbestos, and Natural Resources Canada traces the concern to ore from a Montana mine that produced vermiculite until 1990. Vermiculite is sometimes hidden under a later layer of batts or loose fill, so the installer should look underneath in several spots, including near the eaves, before quoting.
If any turns up, the insulation work stops there. Health Canada's advice is not to disturb it and to have professionals trained in asbestos handling test it and, if needed, remove it before the attic is renovated.
Blown-in insulation and attic ventilation: blocked soffits, wind and moisture
Loose fill moves easily. Blown carelessly, it drifts into the soffits and chokes the intake vents; without a baffle, wind entering at the soffit can lift it off the edge of the ceiling, often the coldest spot in the house. Natural Resources Canada's attic guidance pairs continuous soffit vents low on the roof with ridge, gable or roof vents higher up, and baffles keep that intake path open.
Ventilation doesn't fix a leaky ceiling. If warm, humid air still reaches the attic, it can condense on the cold underside of the roof and wet the new insulation. That is why sealing comes first, and why frost on nail tips or damp patches after the job deserve a call to the contractor.
Grants and rebates for blown-in insulation in Quebec, Ontario and across Canada
Most insulation programs want proof of what was installed, so the depth markers, photos and a detailed invoice all count. Programs change, and several require an energy evaluation before the work, so confirm the rules on the official page before signing. When this page was reviewed, these programs were active:
- Rénoclimat, from the Government of Québec, which supports insulation and airtightness work carried out between a pre-retrofit and a post-retrofit energy evaluation.
- Hydro-Québec's LogisVert program, which lists roof insulation among its measures and points insulation projects outside its criteria toward Rénoclimat.
- The Canada Greener Homes Affordability Program, which delivers no-cost retrofits such as insulation to eligible low-to-median-income households through participating provinces and territories, including Quebec.
- In Ontario, the Home Renovation Savings Program from Enbridge Gas and Save on Energy, where insulation rebates require a home energy assessment.
Blown-In Insulation: frequently asked questions
Is blown-in cellulose or fibreglass better for an attic?
Both perform well when they are blown to the specified depth over a sealed ceiling. Cellulose fills small gaps closely and is treated against fire and mould; fibreglass is lighter, which can matter over an older ceiling; mineral wool stands out near heat sources because it doesn't support combustion.
How can I tell if enough insulation was blown in?
Look at the depth markers: each one should show the target depth, with the surface even across the attic. Ask for the product name, the number of bags used and the insulating value installed, and compare them with the manufacturer's coverage information for your attic's area.
Does blown-in insulation settle over time?
Yes, loose fill settles somewhat after installation, and how much depends on the product and how it was blown. That's why Natural Resources Canada suggests stating the minimum settled depth in the contract. In walls, the material is dense-packed precisely so it won't slump and leave an empty band at the top of the cavity.
Can insulation be blown into walls that already have some?
Often, yes, if the existing material leaves room and the cavities are dry. An energy evaluation with an infrared scan, or a few small inspection holes, shows what is inside. Old or damaged wiring should be checked by an electrician first, and the air space behind brick veneer must never be filled.
Can I blow in attic insulation myself?
It's possible in a simple, accessible attic, but the preparation is where most mistakes happen: sealing leaks, installing baffles, building dams around the hatch and chimney, and dealing with recessed lights and wiring. If there is any chance of vermiculite, or the attic is cramped or the wiring old, hire a contractor, and check your grant program's conditions before starting.
Sources
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 3: Materials
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 4: Comprehensive air leakage control
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 5: Roofs and attics
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 1: Introduction
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 7: Insulating walls
- Health Canada: Asbestos and your health
- Health Canada: Guide to addressing moisture and mould indoors
- Government of Québec: Rénoclimat
- Hydro-Québec: LogisVert program
- Natural Resources Canada: Canada Greener Homes Affordability Program
- Enbridge Gas and Save on Energy: Home Renovation Savings Program
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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What affects the cost of blown-in insulation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
- Type of insulation
- Removal of old insulation
- Air sealing work
- Access to the space
- Ventilation changes
How to compare insulation contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
- Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
- Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
- For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
- Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.
Questions to ask insulation contractors before you hire
- What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
- Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
- How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
- What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
- For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
- Does this work need a permit or an inspection?
When to call a pro for blown-in insulation
- Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
- Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
- Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.
Blown-in insulation permits and local rules
Some blown-in insulation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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