Spray Foam Insulation
Spray Foam Insulation near you
Open- and closed-cell spray foam for walls, attics and basements. Tell us about your spray foam insulation project and we’ll help you find local spray foam contractors who serve your area.
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Spray polyurethane foam is mixed on site from two liquid components and sprayed onto rim joists, foundation walls, roof decks and framed walls, where it expands and hardens in place. Because it fills every crack and joint it touches, it does two jobs at once: it insulates, and it stops air from leaking through the assembly. That makes it especially useful in the awkward, leaky parts of a Canadian house where batts or boards are hard to fit well.
It is also a chemical product installed inside your home, so the result depends heavily on who does the work. The installer has to choose the right type of foam for each spot, mix and spray it under controlled conditions, keep the household away while it cures, and make sure it ends up covered by a fire-protective finish where one is required. Done carelessly, it can leave odours, gaps and exposed foam behind.
This page explains the difference between open-cell and closed-cell foam, where each one works best, what installer certification means in Canada, what to expect on installation day, why a thermal barrier is needed and how to keep a tightly sealed house dry. For a whole-house plan, see our insulation contractors page.
Open-cell vs closed-cell spray foam: air barrier, vapour control and density
Both kinds of spray foam are polyurethane, but they behave differently once cured. Natural Resources Canada's retrofit guide describes closed-cell foam, also called two-pound foam, as a product that can serve as an air barrier and, at a thickness of 50 mm (2 in.), can sometimes act as a vapour barrier. Open-cell foam, also called low-density or half-pound foam, can serve as an air barrier but not as a vapour barrier, so in most Canadian walls and ceilings it needs a separate vapour control layer on the warm side.
- Closed-cell foam is dense and rigid once cured and handles contact with moisture well, which is why it is the usual choice against concrete and on rim joists.
- Open-cell foam is soft and spongy and expands much more as it is sprayed, so it fills irregular cavities easily, but it doesn't belong where it can get wet.
- NRCan notes that closed-cell foam is sprayed in passes no more than 50 mm (2 in.) thick, so a deeper layer is built up in several passes.
- Closed-cell foam slowly loses some of the gases that give it its insulating value, and NRCan advises using a reduced long-term value when calculating what it adds; ask which value appears in the quote.
Where spray foam insulation works best: rim joists, basement walls, cathedral ceilings and crawl spaces
Spray foam earns its place where a space is irregular, hard to seal or close to moisture. In simpler spots, such as an open attic floor, blown-in insulation is usually the more sensible fill, sometimes over a thin layer of foam that seals the leaks first.
- Rim joists: the band of framing on top of the foundation is full of joints and small bays, and closed-cell foam seals and insulates each one in a single step.
- Basement walls: NRCan describes closed-cell foam, applied only by a certified installer, as a high-quality way to insulate all types of walls, and against concrete it keeps humid indoor air away from the cold foundation.
- Cathedral ceilings and low-slope roofs: where the rafters leave little depth, foam can fill and seal the space, but whether the roof stays vented is a design decision to settle before anyone sprays.
- Crawl spaces: foam on the walls and rim joist, over a sealed ground cover, keeps the crawl space closer to the temperature of the house.
- Tricky junctions: floors that project past the wall below, bay windows and the joint where walls meet the roof are easier to seal with foam than with batts.
Certified spray foam installers, CAN/ULC-S705 standards and contractor licensing
In Canada, medium-density spray polyurethane foam, the closed-cell type, is covered by the CAN/ULC-S705 standards: one part deals with the material and another, CAN/ULC-S705.2, with its application. A product evaluation published by the Canadian Construction Materials Centre (CCMC) at the National Research Council requires that such foam be installed only by certified installers who carry a valid photo-identification licence and can show it on request, under a site quality assurance program with periodic inspections by an accredited third party. Ask to see the installer's card before the work starts.
Certification of the person spraying is separate from the licence of the company. In Quebec, a contractor doing residential insulation work must hold an RBQ licence with the specialized contractor subclass that covers insulation. Elsewhere, check provincial and municipal requirements.
Spray foam installation day: preparation, curing and when it's safe to return
Health Canada notes that MDI-based products such as spray polyurethane foam may cause breathing problems and skin sensitivities, and its advice centres on following the product instructions and safety warnings, including when to leave the area and when it is safe to go back. On a professional job, the installer should tell you in writing, before the work starts, how long everyone, pets included, must stay out of the work area and the house. NRCan's retrofit guide mentions a 24-hour curing and off-gassing period before occupancy resumes for closed-cell foam; the product's own instructions set the time for your job.
- Before spraying, the crew isolates the work area, covers floors, windows and anything that must stay clean, and sets up ventilation that exhausts outdoors.
- Surfaces must be clean, dry and within the temperature range the product allows, which matters on cold concrete in winter.
- After spraying, the ventilation keeps running through the curing period while the crew trims excess foam and cleans up.
- Before you return, have the installer confirm the re-entry time has passed; a strong odour that lingers afterward is a reason to call the installer back, not to wait it out.
Thermal barriers over spray foam: drywall and fire protection
Spray foam is a plastic, and like other foam plastic insulation it must be protected from fire inside a home. NRCan's retrofit guide states that plastic-based foam insulation installed on interior surfaces must be covered with a fire-resistant material, typically 13 mm (1/2 in.) drywall. Building codes set out which coverings qualify and where exceptions apply, so the thermal barrier belongs in the plan and in the quote from the start.
This matters most in spaces nobody plans to finish. Foam sprayed on a rim joist or a basement wall and left bare may not meet the code even if the room stays a storage area. Ask the contractor what will cover the foam in each area, whether a special coating is acceptable in an attic or crawl space, and who installs it.
Common spray foam problems: poor mixing, gaps, lingering odours and trapped moisture
- Foam that stays sticky, crumbles or smells strongly long after the job may have been mixed or applied under the wrong conditions; the installer should investigate and remove and redo it if needed.
- Gaps along the framing, or foam that has pulled away from studs and joists, leave air paths, so check the edges before walls are closed.
- Burying wiring, junction boxes or pipes without planning makes later repairs harder, so the electrical and plumbing work should be finished and inspected first.
- Spraying over damp concrete, active leaks or mould seals the problem in, so water issues are fixed before any foam goes on.
Winter humidity, vapour control and ventilation after a spray foam retrofit
Sealing the rim joist, the basement walls and the roof junctions with foam can close many of the leaks that used to ventilate an older house by accident. NRCan's air leakage guide treats controllable whole-house ventilation and combustion air as part of any serious air sealing job, because humidity climbs as the envelope tightens. Plan the ventilation before the foam goes in, not after the first winter.
Vapour control needs the same forethought. Because closed-cell foam at sufficient thickness can already slow vapour, adding a polyethylene sheet over it can trap moisture between two layers, while open-cell foam usually needs that sheet. Ask the installer to explain which layer controls vapour in each wall. During the first heating season, frost on windows, a damp basement smell or mould in closets means the house needs more fresh air, and naturally vented appliances should be checked for backdrafting.
Spray Foam Insulation: frequently asked questions
Is spray foam the same as the UFFI insulation that was banned?
No. Urea formaldehyde foam insulation, or UFFI, was a different product foamed into wall cavities, and NRCan notes that it was prohibited in Canada in 1980. Today's spray foam is polyurethane, applied under Canadian standards by certified installers. If an inspection report on an older home mentions UFFI, have it assessed before you plan new insulation.
Can I apply spray foam insulation myself?
We don't recommend it. Spray foam is a chemical reaction that happens inside your home, and Health Canada notes that MDI-based products may cause breathing problems and skin sensitivities. Getting the mix, temperature, thickness and ventilation right takes training and equipment, and closed-cell foam is meant to be applied by certified installers. Hire a certified crew for the whole job.
How long do I need to stay out of the house after spray foam is installed?
It depends on the product and the conditions, so the installer should give you the re-entry time from the manufacturer's instructions before the work starts. NRCan's guide mentions a 24-hour curing and off-gassing period for closed-cell foam before occupancy resumes.
Does open-cell spray foam need a vapour barrier?
In most Canadian homes, yes. NRCan notes that open-cell foam can act as an air barrier but not as a vapour barrier, so a separate vapour control layer usually goes on the warm side. Closed-cell foam at sufficient thickness can sometimes do both, which is one reason it is preferred on basement walls and rim joists.
Sources
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 3: Materials
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 4: Comprehensive air leakage control
- Natural Resources Canada: Keeping the Heat In, Section 6: Basement insulation
- Health Canada: Methylenediphenyl diisocyanate (MDI) substances
- National Research Council Canada: CCMC evaluation of a medium-density spray polyurethane foam (CAN/ULC-S705.2)
- RBQ: Specialized contractor licence subclasses
Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.
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Ontario
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What affects the cost of spray foam insulation
Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:
- Area to insulate: attic, walls, basement or crawl space
- Type of insulation
- Removal of old insulation
- Air sealing work
- Access to the space
- Ventilation changes
How to compare spray foam contractors before you hire
- Choose a contractor who talks about air sealing and ventilation, not only adding more insulation.
- Ask them to check the attic or walls for moisture, mould, old wiring or insulation that may contain asbestos before starting.
- Get a written quote that states the type of insulation, the areas covered and the target insulation level.
- For spray foam, ask about their training, curing time and when it's safe to be back in the home.
- Consider an energy audit before and after the work to see where heat is being lost.
Questions to ask spray foam contractors before you hire
- What type of insulation do you recommend for this area, and why?
- Will you seal air leaks before insulating?
- How will you keep the attic properly ventilated?
- What will you do if you find old insulation that may contain asbestos, mould or old wiring?
- For spray foam, how long do we need to stay out of the house?
- Does this work need a permit or an inspection?
When to call a pro for spray foam insulation
- Rooms that stay cold or drafty, or ice dams forming on the roof
- Frost or condensation in the attic in winter
- Loose, pebble-like insulation in the attic: leave it undisturbed and have it assessed by a qualified professional.
Spray foam insulation permits and local rules
Some spray foam insulation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.
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