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Drywall Repair

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Patch holes, cracks and water damage in drywall. Tell us about your drywall repair project and we’ll help you find local drywall contractors who serve your area.

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Drywall repair deals with the damage that builds up in every home's walls and ceilings: holes from door handles and moving day, screws pushing through the paint, cracks above doorways, dented or split corner bead, and the stains and sagging a leak leaves behind. Small repairs look easy, but a patch that shows through the paint, or a crack that's back by next winter, is what usually happens when the cause gets skipped.

A lasting repair starts with why the damage happened. Framing that shrinks and shifts, seasonal swings in humidity, a hidden leak or a door with no stop each call for a different fix. In older homes the material matters too: joint compound, textured coatings and old paint may contain asbestos or lead, and the walls may be plaster rather than drywall.

This page covers the common kinds of damage, why cracks return, water-damaged drywall, asbestos testing before sanding, patching and texture matching, and how plaster differs from drywall. For new walls and ceilings, see the drywall installation page.

Common drywall damage: nail pops, cracks, holes, water stains and corner bead

  • Nail and screw pops: small round bumps or rings of cracked paint where a fastener has worked loose as the framing dried or shifted.
  • Cracks at seams and openings: straight cracks along joints, often running from the corners of doors and windows, where the board is under the most stress.
  • Holes: dents and small holes can be filled directly, while larger ones need backing or a new piece of drywall cut in.
  • Water damage: brown rings, bubbling paint, or board that feels soft or sags, most often on ceilings under bathrooms or near the roof.
  • Corner bead: dented, cracked or loose outside corners, common in hallways and stairwells, repaired by replacing the damaged length.
  • Tape blisters: joint tape bubbling or peeling where it wasn't bedded in enough compound, often showing up after a humid spell or a leak.

Why drywall cracks keep coming back: framing movement, settling and humidity

A crack is a symptom. Wood framing shrinks as it dries during a house's first heating seasons, then swells and shrinks again with the weather: dry, heated air in winter, humid air in summer. Foundations settle, floors flex under heavy loads, and in some houses the roof trusses lift slightly in winter and pull at the joint between the ceiling and the walls. Drywall is rigid, so it cracks where that movement concentrates, usually at seams and at the corners of openings.

Filling a moving crack with compound alone rarely lasts. A durable repair opens the crack, reinforces it with tape and feathers it out wide; at a ceiling joint that moves with the seasons, a flexible detail or a moulding may work better than more compound. Cracks that keep widening, run diagonally from doors and windows, or come with sticking doors, sloping floors or cracks in the foundation deserve a look from a building professional before any cosmetic repair.

  • Hairline cracks that open and close with the seasons: usually normal movement, best repaired once the house has been through a full year.
  • The same seam cracking after every repair: the joint needs tape and possibly extra screws into the framing, not just filler.
  • Keeping indoor humidity steady, with a humidifier in winter and ventilation in summer, reduces seasonal movement.

Water-damaged drywall: find and fix the leak before any repair

A stain on the ceiling or a bubble in the paint means water got in, and patching or painting over it without finding the source only hides the problem until it returns. The leak can be well away from the stain, since water runs along joists and pipes before it drips. The water leak detection page explains how hidden plumbing leaks are tracked down; a roof, window or ice dam leak calls for the matching trade.

Once the leak is fixed and the area has dried out completely, the state of the board decides the repair.

  • Sagging ceiling: keep everyone out from under it, since wet board can give way without warning, and don't use light fixtures in the wet area.
  • Stained but firm and dry: seal the stain with a stain-blocking primer, then repaint.
  • Soft, crumbling or musty: cut out the wet section, dry the cavity, replace any wet insulation and install new board.
  • Mould beyond a small surface spot: have a qualified professional assess and remove it rather than disturbing it yourself.

Asbestos in older drywall compound: test before you sand or cut

Sanding or cutting old drywall makes dust, and in older homes that dust can carry asbestos fibres. Health Canada includes drywall and spackling among the surface treatments on its list of materials that may contain asbestos, and notes that asbestos was mainly used in homes before 1990. The Quebec government says asbestos products were used in construction in Quebec mainly between 1930 and 1990, and lists wall and ceiling coatings, patching compound and drywall repairs among the materials that may contain it.

You can't tell by looking. Before sanding, cutting into or tearing out walls and ceilings from that era, have a professional take samples for laboratory analysis. If asbestos is found, the work belongs to a qualified asbestos removal contractor, never to a do-it-yourself weekend. Materials in good condition that are left undisturbed generally don't release fibres, so a small crack can wait until the test results are in.

How drywall is patched and textures are matched

A repair is only finished when you can't find it: a flat patch, edges feathered wide, a matching texture, primer over the compound and paint carried to a natural break such as a corner. Touching up one spot on an older wall often shows as a shiny or dull halo, even with the original colour.

  • Small holes and dents: filled with lightweight compound in thin coats, then sanded smooth.
  • Medium holes: covered with a backing or patch, then buried in compound and feathered out.
  • Large holes: the damaged area cut into a clean rectangle, backing fastened to the framing, and a new piece of drywall screwed in, taped and finished.
  • Textured walls: swirl, orange-peel or trowelled textures reproduced with sprayed, rolled or hand-applied compound, tested on a scrap piece first.
  • Textured ceilings: the hardest to match invisibly, and in older homes they need an asbestos test before anyone scrapes a sample.
  • Finishing: primer over all new compound, then paint on the whole wall or up to a corner so the repair blends in.

Plaster walls vs drywall in older homes: repair the plaster or replace it?

Many older homes have plaster walls rather than drywall: coats of plaster over wood lath or a rigid backing board. Plaster is harder, denser and quieter than drywall, and it often wraps curved corners and mouldings that drywall can't easily copy. Knock on the wall: plaster sounds solid and feels hard and cold, and a pushpin barely goes in.

Plaster fails differently. Cracks, bulges and sags usually mean it has come loose from the lath, and the fix is to reattach it and fill the cracks, not to spread drywall compound over the top. Replacing a whole wall with drywall is sometimes the practical choice, but it's messy, it disturbs old paint and coatings, and it loses the original character. The plaster repair page covers work on plaster itself.

  • Hairline cracks in sound plaster: opened slightly, taped and filled.
  • Loose or bulging plaster: reattached to the lath before any finishing, or cut back if it can't be saved.
  • Missing sections: filled with plaster, or with drywall shimmed out to match the thickness of the surrounding wall.
  • Old paint on plaster or drywall: Health Canada says a home built before 1960 probably contains lead-based paint, so have it tested before any sanding.

Drywall Repair: frequently asked questions

How can I tell if my drywall compound contains asbestos?

Only a laboratory analysis can tell. In a home built or renovated before the 1990s, have a professional take samples from the areas to be repaired before anyone sands or cuts them. If the result is positive, hire a qualified asbestos removal contractor for the work.

Why do nail pops keep appearing in my newer house?

The framing lumber is still drying and shrinking, which pushes fasteners out through the finish. It usually settles down after the first few heating seasons. Wait until it does, then fix them all at once by driving a new screw beside each pop, resetting the old fastener and refinishing.

Can drywall be patched without repainting the whole wall?

Sometimes, on a recently painted wall with leftover paint from the same batch. Most of the time, paint on the wall has faded or aged, and a spot touch-up shows as a different sheen. Painting from corner to corner gives a result nobody will notice.

Is a crack in my ceiling a structural problem?

Usually not. Most ceiling cracks follow a drywall seam and come from normal movement in the framing. Get it checked if the crack keeps growing, the ceiling sags, it appears with sticking doors or sloping floors, or it follows a leak.

How long should drywall dry after a leak before it's repaired?

There's no fixed wait; it depends on how much water got in and how well the space is ventilated. A contractor can confirm with a moisture meter that the board and framing are dry. Board that stays soft, or a cavity with wet insulation, should be opened up rather than left to dry on its own.

Should a handyman, a painter or a drywall contractor fix my walls?

Small holes and a few nail pops suit a handyman or a painter who is already repainting. Large holes, ceiling repairs, texture matching and water-damaged sections are better handled by a drywall contractor. Anything that tests positive for asbestos goes to an asbestos removal specialist.

Sources

  1. Asbestos and your health — Health Canada
  2. Preventing health problems associated with asbestos — Gouvernement du Québec
  3. Lead-based paint — Health Canada

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of drywall repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and ceiling height
  • Condition of the walls, trim or siding
  • Amount of prep and repairs
  • Number of colours and coats
  • Paint quality
  • Access, including stairwells and upper floors

How to compare drywall contractors before you hire

  • Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
  • Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
  • Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
  • In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
  • Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.

Questions to ask drywall contractors before you hire

  • What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
  • How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
  • Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
  • How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?

Drywall repair permits and local rules

Some drywall repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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