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Drywall Installation

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Drywall installation turns a framed wall or ceiling into a smooth surface ready for paint: gypsum panels are cut and screwed to studs and joists, the seams are taped, screws and corners are covered with joint compound, and everything is sanded flat. It comes up when finishing a basement, building an addition or a new partition, renovating a kitchen or bathroom, closing in a garage, or rebuilding a room stripped to the studs after water damage or rewiring.

The panels go up quickly. Most of the time, and most of the skill, goes into finishing: several thin coats of compound, each left to dry before the next, feathered out until the seams vanish under paint. Choosing the right board for each room, solving moisture problems before walls are closed and meeting the code where a wall separates a garage from the house are all settled before the first sheet is fastened.

This page covers board types, the steps from hanging to sanding, finish levels, basements, permits and garage walls, dust control and what drives the schedule. For patching existing walls, see the drywall repair page; for the painting that follows, see interior painting.

Types of drywall: regular, moisture-resistant, mould-resistant, fire-rated Type X and soundproofing board

Every drywall panel has the same basic make-up, a gypsum core between two facings, but the core and the facing change with the job. Board also comes in several thicknesses, lengths and weights; ask your installer what they plan to use in each room and why.

  • Regular board: the standard choice for walls and ceilings in dry living spaces such as bedrooms, living rooms and hallways.
  • Moisture-resistant board: made for rooms with higher humidity, such as bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchens, but not meant to take running water.
  • Mould-resistant board: faced with fibreglass or treated paper, used where dampness is a risk, such as basements and bathrooms, alongside good ventilation rather than instead of it.
  • Fire-rated Type X board: a denser core reinforced with fibres that holds up longer in a fire, used where the building code calls for a fire-rated assembly, which can include the wall and ceiling between an attached garage and the house.
  • Soundproofing board: a heavier or layered panel that cuts noise between rooms or floors, and works best with insulation in the cavity and sealed edges.
  • Shower and tub surrounds: behind tile in wet areas, installers use cement board or a waterproofing membrane system, not ordinary drywall.

How drywall is installed: hanging, taping and mudding step by step

Before any board goes up, the framing should be checked for straightness, electrical boxes, plumbing and ducts should be in place and inspected where required, and on outside walls the insulation and vapour barrier should be complete and sealed. A crooked stud is much easier to fix now than to hide under compound later.

  • Hanging: ceilings first, then walls, with sheets laid out to keep joints to a minimum and short end seams staggered rather than lined up.
  • Fastening: screws set just below the surface without tearing the paper, since torn facing leads to popped screws and bubbles later.
  • Corners: outside corners protected with metal or paper-faced corner bead, and inside corners taped.
  • Taping: joint tape bedded in compound over every seam, with paper or mesh tape chosen to suit the joint and the compound.
  • Mudding: successive coats of joint compound, each wider and thinner than the last, left to dry or set before the next one.
  • Sanding and priming: joints sanded smooth, dust wiped off, and a primer made for new drywall applied so the paint absorbs evenly over paper and compound.

Drywall finish levels: how smooth do your walls need to be?

Contractors describe drywall finishing in levels, from seams taped and nothing more, for spaces nobody will see, up to a thin coat of compound skimmed over the entire surface. The higher the level, the more coats, sanding and time it takes, and the flatter the wall looks under strong light.

Two quotes for the same room can describe very different amounts of finishing, so put the level you expect in writing. Walls that face big windows, long hallways where light skims along the surface, and glossy paint all show joints that a flat finish would hide.

Drywall in basements: fix moisture before finishing the walls

A basement is where new drywall is most likely to fail. Foundation walls sit against damp soil, and water can get in through cracks, around windows or through the slab during the spring thaw. Gypsum and its paper facing soak up that moisture and feed mould, which can spread unseen behind a finished wall.

Before framing goes up, look for warning signs: damp patches, white mineral deposits on the concrete, a musty smell, stains at the base of the walls, or water after heavy rain. Deal with the source first, whether that means regrading, extending downspouts, repairing cracks or waterproofing, and let the space dry out. The basement renovations page covers insulation, framing and layout.

  • Choose mould-resistant board, and keep the bottom edge of the panels slightly above the concrete floor so it can't wick up water.
  • Install insulation and the vapour barrier on foundation walls the way the building code in force requires, since a misplaced barrier can trap moisture inside the wall.
  • Leave an access panel wherever a shut-off valve, cleanout or junction box must stay reachable.
  • Run a dehumidifier during finishing if the air is damp, so the compound dries properly and the board doesn't absorb moisture.

Drywall permits, attached garage walls and fire separations

Hanging drywall on its own rarely calls for a permit, but drywall is usually one stage of a larger project that does: finishing a basement, moving or adding walls, building an addition or turning a garage into living space. Many municipalities want to inspect framing, insulation, the vapour barrier or wiring before walls are closed, so confirm the permit and inspection schedule before the first sheet goes up.

Where a garage is attached to the house, the building code sets requirements for the wall and ceiling between them, to keep exhaust fumes out of the living space and, where required, to slow the spread of fire. The type of board, the number of layers and the way joints and openings are sealed depend on the code in force where you live and on whether there are rooms above the garage, so ask your municipality's building department what applies. Don't cut openings for lights, vents or a pet door into that wall or ceiling without checking first.

Drywall dust control: protecting the rest of the house during installation

Sanding joint compound produces a very fine dust that drifts through doorways, gets pulled into ducts and settles on every surface in the house. Good crews plan for it from day one rather than cleaning up at the end.

  • Plastic sheeting and zippered doors sealing the work area off from the rest of the house.
  • Supply and return vents in the room covered, and the furnace filter checked after the job, so dust isn't circulated through the ductwork.
  • Sanders connected to a vacuum with fine filtration, or damp sanding sponges for small touch-ups.
  • Daily clean-up with a filtered vacuum rather than a broom, which only sends dust back into the air.
  • Before tearing out old walls in a home built or renovated between 1930 and 1990, have the materials checked for asbestos: the Quebec government lists wall and ceiling coatings, patching compound and drywall repairs among the materials that may contain it.

How long drywall installation takes: what affects the timeline

The schedule depends less on hanging, which moves fast, than on finishing, because each coat of compound has to dry or set before the next goes on. Drying slows in cold, damp air and speeds up with heat and air movement, so a basement in winter or a humid week in summer can stretch the job.

  • Size and layout: high ceilings, stairwells, arches, window returns and many corners take longer than plain flat walls.
  • Access: carrying full sheets down a narrow basement staircase or up to a top floor slows the work and sometimes means shorter panels and more joints.
  • Inspections: waiting for a municipal inspection of framing or insulation before the walls can be closed.
  • Compound type: setting compound hardens by chemical reaction and allows faster recoats, while ready-mixed compound dries by evaporation.
  • Finish level: each extra coat, or a full skim coat, adds drying and sanding time.

Drywall Installation: frequently asked questions

Can drywall go directly on basement concrete walls?

No. Concrete foundation walls carry moisture, and board fastened straight to them soaks it up. The walls are framed and insulated with the right vapour control first, after any water or dampness problem has been fixed.

Do I need a permit to drywall my basement?

It depends on your municipality and on the scope of the job. Finishing a basement usually involves framing, insulation and often electrical work, which commonly require a permit and inspections before the walls are closed. Call the permit office before work starts.

Why can I see drywall joints through the paint?

Usually the joints weren't feathered wide enough, the compound shrank as it dried, or the wall was painted without a primer, so paper and compound took the paint differently. Light skimming across the wall makes it worse. Extra coats of compound, sanding and a proper primer fix it.

What drywall should go in a bathroom?

Moisture-resistant or mould-resistant board suits bathroom walls and ceilings outside the shower. Inside a shower or tub surround, tile needs cement board or a waterproofing membrane system behind it. Whatever the board, a working exhaust fan is what keeps the room dry.

Sources

  1. Preventing health problems associated with asbestos — Gouvernement du Québec

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of drywall

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size of the area and ceiling height
  • Condition of the walls, trim or siding
  • Amount of prep and repairs
  • Number of colours and coats
  • Paint quality
  • Access, including stairwells and upper floors

How to compare drywall contractors before you hire

  • Ask how the painter will prepare the surfaces, since patching, sanding and priming matter as much as the paint.
  • Get a written quote that lists which rooms or surfaces are included, the number of coats and who supplies the paint.
  • Ask how they'll protect floors, furniture, landscaping and anything they can't move.
  • In older homes, ask how they handle old paint that may contain lead.
  • Look at recent work, paying attention to clean lines at ceilings and trim.

Questions to ask drywall contractors before you hire

  • What prep work is included, such as patching, sanding, caulking and priming?
  • How many coats are included, and what paint will you use?
  • Are ceilings, trim, doors and closets part of the price?
  • How will you protect my floors, furniture and plants?
  • Can you show me proof of liability insurance?
  • What happens if I notice touch-ups needed after you finish?

Drywall permits and local rules

Some drywall work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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