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Radiant Heating

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Radiant heating warms the people and surfaces in a room directly instead of blowing heated air through ducts. In most Canadian homes that means a hydronic system, where a boiler or a heat pump sends warm water to cast-iron radiators, panel radiators or baseboard convectors, or electric equipment such as baseboard heaters and radiant ceiling or wall panels.

The service covers installing radiant heat in a house that has none, extending or replacing radiators in an older hot-water system, adding zones, converting electric baseboards to hot water and pairing radiators with an air-to-water heat pump. Much of the work is design: matching each radiator to the heat its room loses and to the water temperature the heat source can supply.

This page explains how radiant heat differs from forced air, the hydronic and electric options, radiator and baseboard choices, heat pump pairing, zoning and the trades involved. Heating built into the floor has its own page: see in-floor heating.

Radiant heating vs forced air: how the heat reaches you

A forced-air system heats air at the furnace and pushes it through ducts, so rooms warm quickly but the heat arrives in bursts, and the air carries dust and fan noise with it. Radiators, baseboards and panels sit in the room and warm what they face while setting up a slow, gentle air movement. Natural Resources Canada describes radiant heat sources as warming solid bodies, such as people, in their line of sight without having to heat all the surrounding air.

The trade-offs cut both ways. Radiant systems are quiet and don't stir up dust, but they don't cool, so a house without ducts needs another answer for air conditioning, such as ductless heat pumps, and its fresh air has to come from an HRV or ERV rather than a furnace fan. Water-based systems also respond more slowly than forced air, which rewards steady thermostat settings over deep swings.

Hydronic vs electric radiant heating: boilers, heat pumps, baseboards and radiant panels

  • Hydronic: a boiler, an approved combination water heater or an air-to-water heat pump warms water that a pump circulates to the radiators and back; NRCan notes that newer systems use copper or specialized plastic piping and smaller, more efficient boilers than the heavy iron systems of the past.
  • Electric baseboards: NRCan says they are installed permanently, preferably under windows along outside walls, that each normally needs its own dedicated circuit, and that in new construction they usually cost the least to install but often have very high operating costs.
  • Electric radiant cables and panels: NRCan notes that electric heating cables can go in ceilings as well as floors, and ceiling or wall panels heat whatever faces them, which helps where a baseboard won't fit.
  • Wall convection heaters and floor insert units: NRCan lists wall units for hallways, entrances, landings and bathrooms, and floor inserts for spots in front of stairways, floor-level windows or sliding glass doors.
  • Choosing between them: electric equipment is simple and needs little upkeep but locks you into electric resistance heat, while a hydronic loop costs more to build but lets you change the heat source later.

Radiator and baseboard options: cast iron, panel radiators, fin-tube baseboard and fan coils

  • Cast-iron radiators: heavy, slow to warm and slow to cool, and in older homes and plexes often worth keeping, flushing and rebalancing rather than replacing.
  • Steel panel radiators: slim and quick to respond, often with a thermostatic valve built in; a larger panel gives the same heat with cooler water.
  • Fin-tube hydronic baseboard: a pipe with thin metal fins behind a cover, economical to run along outside walls, though it generally needs hotter water to give its full output.
  • Low-temperature radiators and fan coils: extra surface or a small fan lets them heat a room with cooler water, which is what heat pumps and condensing boilers prefer.
  • Towel warmers and decorative radiators: hydronic or electric, useful in bathrooms, usually as a supplement to the main heat.
  • Thermostatic radiator valves: NRCan says they can vary a radiator's output automatically, but not on a series loop, where the water passes through every radiator on its way back to the boiler.

Radiant heating with an air-to-water heat pump: water temperature and cold-weather backup

Natural Resources Canada describes air-to-water heat pumps as heating or cooling water for homes with hydronic distribution such as low-temperature radiators, radiant floors or fan coil units. They run most efficiently when heating water below 45 to 50°C, which makes floors and fan coils a better match, and NRCan advises care with high-temperature radiators that need water above 60°C, since that generally exceeds the limits of most residential heat pumps.

That doesn't rule out an older radiator house. A heat-loss calculation, ideally after insulation and air-sealing work, may show that the existing radiators can do the job with cooler water for most of the winter, with a few rooms upsized and a boiler kept for the coldest days. The controls then decide which source runs, and the outdoor unit needs a spot clear of drifting snow and roof runoff. Some units can also cool through fan coils, which radiators can't do.

Zoning and balancing a radiant heating system: zone valves, circulators and room-by-room control

Zoning lets parts of the house run at different temperatures. In a hydronic system, each zone's thermostat opens a zone valve or starts its own circulator, and NRCan notes that zone control can reduce energy use and that a heating contractor can advise on and install the equipment. Typical splits are floor by floor, a basement or addition on its own, and bedrooms kept cooler than living areas.

Balancing comes next: NRCan points out that simple manual valves on radiators can adjust the heat each room receives, much as dampers do in ductwork. Electric baseboards and panels are zoned by design, with a thermostat for each room or group of heaters. Many tiny hydronic zones can make a boiler cycle on and off too often, so a buffer tank or a modulating boiler is often part of a zoned design.

Who installs radiant heating: licensed heating contractors, electricians and permits

Hydronic work combines piping, heating equipment and, with a gas or oil boiler, fuel work. In Ontario the fuel side belongs to a fuels contractor registered with the TSSA; in Quebec, heating contractors hold a licence from the Régie du bâtiment du Québec, and any gas work goes to a specialized contractor who is a CMMTQ member. Other provinces license the trades their own way.

Electric baseboards, radiant panels and their line-voltage thermostats run on household current, so they are installed by a licensed electrician, not a homeowner. In Ontario, the Electrical Safety Authority says a notification of work is filed before electrical work begins; in Quebec, the CMEQ says only an electrical contractor may carry out electrical work for others. Adding many heaters can also mean checking the panel's capacity.

Radiant Heating: frequently asked questions

Can I convert electric baseboards to hot-water heating?

Yes. Natural Resources Canada notes that many homeowners with electric baseboards and high heating bills find that pipes and radiators for a hydronic system can be installed at a cost that still makes the conversion worthwhile. The work involves a heat source, piping routes through walls and floors, and a radiator in each room.

Why do radiators and baseboards usually go under windows?

Glass is the coldest surface in most rooms, and heat rising from below a window counters the cool air sliding down it. NRCan recommends placing electric baseboards under windows along outside walls in an unobstructed space, and hydronic emitters follow the same logic.

Can a radiant heating system also cool my house?

Radiators and baseboards can't. Homes with radiant heat usually add ductless heat pumps for cooling, or use an air-to-water heat pump with fan coils that can deliver cool air in summer. Plan the cooling at the same time as the heating so the equipment and controls work together.

Is radiant heating the same as in-floor heating?

In-floor heating is one form of radiant heat, with the tubing or cable built into the floor itself. This page covers radiators, baseboards and wall or ceiling panels; see the in-floor heating page for heated slabs, bathroom floors and retrofits under the subfloor.

Are old cast-iron radiators worth keeping?

Often, yes. Sound cast-iron radiators can serve for many more years once the system is flushed, bled and balanced, and their large surface can help them work with a condensing boiler or a heat pump. Leaks, cracks or seized valves are the usual reasons to replace one.

Sources

  1. Natural Resources Canada: Heating and cooling with a heat pump
  2. Natural Resources Canada: Heating with Electricity
  3. Natural Resources Canada: Heating with Gas
  4. TSSA: Authorized heating fuel contractors (Ontario)
  5. Régie du bâtiment du Québec: Plumbing licence
  6. CMMTQ: Can you do your own plumbing and heating work?
  7. Electrical Safety Authority: Notifications and inspections
  8. CMEQ: A licence is mandatory

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of radiant heating

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your province.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my province?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for radiant heating

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Radiant heating permits and local rules

Some radiant heating work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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