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Boiler Installation

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Install or replace a hot water or steam boiler. Tell us about your boiler installation project and we’ll help you find local HVAC contractors who serve your area.

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This type of work often has to be done by a licensed or certified trade. Ask to see licences and proof of insurance before work starts.
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Boiler installation means putting a new hot-water boiler into a hydronic heating system, most often to replace one that has worn out, and sometimes to bring hydronic heat into an addition, a major renovation or a new house. The boiler is only one piece of that system. It has to suit the radiators, baseboards or floor loops it will feed, the fuel available at the address, the chimney or vent route and the household's hot water needs.

A sound replacement starts with a few questions rather than a model number. How much heat does the house lose on the coldest night now that windows or insulation may have been upgraded? Can the existing radiators work with the cooler water a condensing boiler needs? Where will the new vent exit, and where will the condensate go? Should the boiler also make your domestic hot water? The answers set the size, the type and how much of the old piping stays.

This page covers condensing, non-condensing and combi boilers, sizing by heat-loss calculation, venting and condensate drainage, licensed installers and permits, and what happens to an old oil tank. For breakdowns on a boiler you want to keep, see the boiler repair page.

Types of replacement boilers: condensing, non-condensing, combi and electric

  • Condensing boilers add a corrosion-resistant heat exchanger that recovers heat from the water vapour in the exhaust, so they vent through approved plastic pipe instead of a chimney and need a drain for the water they produce.
  • Non-condensing, or conventional, boilers send hotter exhaust up a chimney or metal vent; they cope with high-temperature radiator systems, but their water can't be turned down as far, because Natural Resources Canada notes that running a non-condensing boiler too cool can cause corrosion.
  • Combi boilers heat the house and make domestic hot water on demand from one appliance and one vent; when comparing combined space and water heating systems, Natural Resources Canada suggests insisting on performance ratings determined under the CSA P.11 standard.
  • A boiler paired with an indirect tank keeps the two jobs apart: the boiler heats a storage tank through a coil, which suits households that draw a lot of hot water at the same time.
  • Electric boilers use immersion elements, have no burner or vent and are compact enough to hang on a wall, and Natural Resources Canada says the existing distribution pipes can probably be reused when one replaces a fuel-fired boiler.

Will a condensing boiler actually condense? Return-water temperature, radiators and outdoor reset

A condensing boiler earns its efficiency only when the water returning to it is cool enough to condense the vapour in its exhaust. Natural Resources Canada puts the target at return water preferably no warmer than 45 to 50°C, and warns that many older hydronic systems were designed around much hotter water. If the return stays too warm, a condensing boiler can end up performing much like a non-condensing one.

In-floor heating runs with cool return water by nature, so it pairs easily with a condensing boiler. Radiator and baseboard systems are the harder case. An outdoor reset control lowers the water temperature as the weather warms, and because the system seldom needs its full output, it can run cool for much of the season; NRCan adds that radiators with enough surface can work well at lower temperatures. Before paying for condensing capability, ask the installer to check room by room whether your radiators can deliver the heat needed with cooler water.

Sizing a new boiler with a heat-loss calculation, and the installation steps that follow

Natural Resources Canada advises asking the contractor for a heat-loss calculation based on CSA standard F280, which accounts for the house's size, insulation and airtightness, and it cautions that sizing from floor area alone, or matching the old unit, is not adequate in most cases. The old boiler is a poor guide anyway: NRCan's oil heating guide says most heating systems in older homes are greatly oversized, and more so once insulation and weatherstripping have been added. An oversized boiler runs in short cycles and may never reach its most efficient steady operation.

  • Site survey and heat-loss calculation, with a look at the radiators or loops, piping, circulating pump, expansion tank and chimney.
  • Choice of boiler type, output and vent route, plus a decision on hot water: combi, indirect tank or a separate water heater.
  • Draining the system, shutting off and disconnecting the fuel and power, and removing the old boiler.
  • Setting the new boiler, reconnecting supply and return piping, and adding the pump, expansion tank, air separator and relief valve the design calls for.
  • Installing the vent and air intake, the condensate line and the fuel connection, then filling the loops and purging the air.
  • Start-up: combustion testing, safety-control checks, setting the outdoor reset and zone controls, and a walkthrough of the pressure gauge and service schedule.

Boiler venting and condensate drainage: sidewall vents, chimney liners and neutralizers

The vent often shapes the whole job. A condensing boiler's exhaust is cool enough for approved plastic pipe, usually run out a side wall or through the roof with a sealed air intake beside it, so no chimney is needed. The terminal has to meet the clearances in the fuel code and the maker's instructions, away from windows, doors and air intakes, and clear of the spots where snow drifts or ice falls from the roof.

Keeping an existing chimney brings its own checks. Natural Resources Canada recommends having a technician inspect the chimney when a more efficient boiler replaces an old one: an outside masonry chimney is often too large for the cooler exhaust, which can condense inside and break down the brick, and a stainless steel liner can prevent that. If a gas water heater shared the chimney with the old boiler and the new one vents out the side wall, the water heater's venting has to be re-evaluated too.

The acidic water a condensing boiler produces runs to a floor drain or a condensate pump, commonly through a neutralizer cartridge, on a route that can't freeze. A new fuel-fired boiler is also the time to confirm your carbon monoxide alarms work: NRCan's gas heating guide recommends a certified detector close to fuel-fired appliances, and Health Canada advises alarms in every home that has them.

Licensed boiler installers and permits: TSSA, RBQ and CMMTQ, Technical Safety BC

A gas or oil boiler is regulated from the fuel connection to the vent terminal. In Ontario, the TSSA registers the fuels contractors allowed to install fuel-burning appliances and certifies the gas and oil burner technicians who do the work, so ask for the company's registration number. In Quebec, the CMMTQ states that all work on a gas installation or gas appliance must be entrusted to a specialized contractor who is a CMMTQ member, and heating contractors hold a licence from the Régie du bâtiment du Québec.

In British Columbia, Technical Safety BC requires a permit to install or replace a gas boiler; a licensed contractor you hire applies for it, and at least one inspection must be requested within 180 days of issue. Other provinces and many municipalities have their own permit and inspection rules, sometimes for the plumbing or electrical connections as well. Have the contractor confirm in writing which permits they will obtain.

Replacing an oil boiler: old oil tanks, TSSA rules and changing fuel

Taking out an oil boiler raises the question of the tank. In Ontario, the TSSA says regulations require an unused underground storage tank to be removed, that only a TSSA-registered petroleum contractor may remove a buried fuel oil tank, and that leaving one in the ground needs a variance backed by an environmental assessment report. For approved aboveground tanks, TSSA says there is no age at which one must be replaced as long as it isn't leaking. Other provinces set their own fuel oil rules, and insurers often ask about a tank's age and condition, so check both before deciding its fate.

  • Stay with oil: a new oil boiler, with the tank inspected or replaced and the chimney checked for a liner.
  • Switch to natural gas or propane: a gas service or tank and new gas piping are needed; see the gas line installation page.
  • Switch to an electric boiler: no tank, burner or vent, but a large new electrical load.
  • Add or move to an air-to-water heat pump, which suits low-temperature radiators and floors; see the radiant heating page.

Boiler Installation: frequently asked questions

Can I keep my old radiators with a new condensing boiler?

Usually, yes. The installer checks whether each radiator can heat its room with cooler water, flushes out the sludge older systems tend to carry and often adds a separator or filter to protect the new boiler's smaller passages. Where a room falls short, a larger or additional radiator can fix it.

Is a combi boiler a good choice for my house?

It suits homes where space is tight and hot water is rarely used in several places at once. A household that runs two showers and a washer together may be better served by a boiler with an indirect tank.

Do I need a permit to replace a boiler?

Often, yes, particularly for gas work. British Columbia requires one for installing or replacing a gas boiler, and other provinces and municipalities have their own rules. A licensed contractor knows the local requirements and normally applies for the permit and books the inspection.

Should I replace my boiler with a heat pump instead?

It depends on the water temperature your radiators need. Air-to-water heat pumps work best with low-temperature floors and radiators, and many homes end up with a heat pump plus a boiler for the coldest days. A heat-loss calculation and a look at your emitters will show what's realistic; the radiant heating page explains the pairing.

Sources

  1. Natural Resources Canada: Heating with Gas
  2. Natural Resources Canada: Heating with Oil
  3. Natural Resources Canada: Heating with Electricity
  4. Health Canada: Carbon monoxide, preventing exposure
  5. TSSA: Authorized heating fuel contractors (Ontario)
  6. TSSA: FAQs, storage tanks
  7. Régie du bâtiment du Québec: Plumbing licence
  8. CMMTQ: Can you do your own plumbing and heating work?
  9. Technical Safety BC: Homeowner gas permits

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of boiler installation

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Type of system and fuel source
  • Size and efficiency of the equipment
  • Condition of the existing ductwork and venting
  • Electrical or gas line changes
  • Access to the furnace room, attic or outdoor unit location
  • Removal and disposal of the old equipment
  • Emergency or after-hours service

How to compare HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Hire a technician who is licensed for heating, cooling and gas work in your province.
  • For a new system, ask for a load calculation for your home rather than a size based on the old unit.
  • Get written quotes that list the equipment, ductwork changes, removal of the old unit and any electrical work.
  • Ask how they handle service calls and repairs after installation, including in the middle of winter.
  • Compare the full scope of each quote, not only the equipment on it.

Questions to ask HVAC contractors before you hire

  • Are you licensed for this type of heating, cooling or gas work in my province?
  • How did you decide what size of system my home needs?
  • Does this installation need a permit, and will you take care of it?
  • What does the manufacturer's warranty cover, and what does your labour warranty cover?
  • Will you need to change the ductwork, venting or electrical to make this work?
  • Do you offer maintenance plans, and what do they include?
  • How quickly can you respond if the system stops working?

When to call a pro for boiler installation

  • If you smell gas, leave the home and call your gas utility's emergency line from outside.
  • If a carbon monoxide alarm goes off, get everyone outside and call emergency services.
  • No heat in cold weather, or a furnace that keeps shutting off
  • Unusual noises, burning smells or a big jump in energy use

Boiler installation permits and local rules

Some boiler installation work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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