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Deck Repair

Deck Repair near you

Replace boards, stairs and railings, or restore an old deck. Tell us about your deck repair project and we’ll help you find local deck builders who serve your area.

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Most decks don't fail all at once. Boards soften where water sits, fasteners rust, a post starts to rock, and a railing that once felt solid gives a little more each spring. Deck repair covers everything from replacing a few boards or a loose section of guard to rebuilding stairs, reinforcing or replacing framing, and fixing the connection to the house.

The first task is a close inspection, on top of the deck and underneath it, because the damage that matters most is usually out of sight: rot in the ledger and joists, footings that have heaved or sunk, and connectors eaten away by corrosion. That inspection decides whether a repair makes sense or whether the frame has reached the end of its useful life.

This page lists the warning signs, explains when to stop using a deck, compares repair with rebuilding, and covers board and railing replacement, old treated wood, cleaning and permits.

Signs your deck needs repair: rot, loose railings, wobbling posts and rusted fasteners

Walk the deck, then look underneath with a flashlight. Probe suspect wood with a screwdriver: sound wood resists, while rotted wood is soft, spongy or pulls away in fibres. Pay extra attention wherever water collects and where the deck meets the house.

  • Soft or rotted boards: spongy spots, dark stains that never dry, or boards that flex and crack underfoot, often under planters and at board ends.
  • Loose railings: guards or posts that move when you lean on them, usually from rot at the base of the post or fasteners that have worked loose.
  • Wobbling posts and a swaying frame: the deck shifts when people walk across it, a sign of missing bracing or failing connections.
  • Rusted fasteners and connectors: flaking hangers, stained screw heads and nails that have backed out, especially where water sits.
  • Ledger rot: soft wood, stains or gaps where the deck meets the house, or water marks on the basement wall behind it.
  • Heaving or sinking footings: a deck that tilts, stairs that have pulled away or posts that have lifted off their supports after winter.

Deck safety first: when to stop using a damaged deck

Some problems are more than wear. A guard that gives way when someone leans on it, or a ledger pulling away from the house, can lead to a fall or a collapse, and failures like these tend to happen when the deck is most crowded. If you see either one, keep everyone off the deck, or at least away from the damaged area, until a qualified contractor has assessed it.

  • Block access: lock the door to the deck, tape off the stairs and warn family and guests.
  • Lighten the load: move planters, the barbecue and heavy furniture away from the damaged area if you can do it safely.
  • Don't patch a guard or ledger with a few extra screws, since a temporary fix can look solid without holding a load.
  • Take photos of the damage: they help the contractor quote and are useful for an insurance claim.

Deck repair or rebuild: judging what the frame can still carry

The decking is the easy part to judge. What decides between repair and rebuild is the frame underneath: ledger, beams, joists, posts and footings. If they are sound, new boards, guards or stairs can keep the deck going for years. If rot, corrosion or heaving has spread through them, new material on top only hides the problem. Structural work beyond replacing surface boards is a job for a qualified contractor, and a rebuild is a chance to change the size, height or material, as the deck construction page explains.

  • Repair usually makes sense: localized rot, a few damaged boards, a loose guard post or a broken stair stringer on an otherwise sound frame.
  • Rebuild usually makes sense: widespread rot in the joists or ledger, footings that heave every year, or an unpermitted deck that would need major changes to comply.
  • Middle ground: keep a sound frame and footings, reinforce what's needed, and replace all the decking and guards at once.

Replacing deck boards, railings and stairs

Swapping a few rotted boards is the one repair many handy owners take on: the old board comes up, the joist beneath is checked for soft spots, and a new board of the same thickness goes down with corrosion-resistant fasteners. If the joist is soft too, or the damage runs under several boards, stop there and call a pro. Guards, stairs and anything that holds the deck up are structural and belong to a contractor.

  • Matching boards: new wood rarely matches weathered boards at first, so some owners replace a whole section or refinish the entire deck afterwards.
  • Composite and PVC: replacement boards must come from a compatible product line, and a discontinued colour may mean redoing a larger area.
  • Railings: a new guard is only as strong as the posts it's fastened to, which often means replacing or reinforcing the posts as well.
  • Stairs: stringers rot at the bottom where they meet the ground or a pad, and rebuilt stairs should rest on a proper footing or landing.

Old pressure-treated wood (CCA): safe handling and disposal

Health Canada notes that residential decks, fences and play structures built before 2004 are likely to be made of lumber treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA), which is no longer available for residential construction. That calls for care during repairs, when the wood is cut, sanded or torn out. For an old CCA deck you're keeping, Health Canada suggests considering a sealant every year and replacing wood that shows damage such as rot or scraped surfaces, to avoid the release of arsenic.

  • Protection: Health Canada advises wearing a dust mask, eye protection, gloves and long sleeves when sawing, sanding or shaping treated wood.
  • Cleanup: wash your hands and exposed skin after working with it, and before eating, drinking or smoking.
  • Burning: never burn treated wood, indoors or outdoors, since burning releases chemicals in the smoke and ash.
  • Compost and mulch: keep treated wood and sawdust out of the compost bin, and don't use them as mulch.
  • Disposal: it follows municipal and provincial rules, so ask your municipality where old deck lumber should go.

Deck cleaning and refinishing after repairs

Once repairs are done, a thorough cleaning and a fresh finish help new and old boards weather together and protect the wood you kept. Remove mildew, flaking finish and grey surface fibres with a cleaner suited to the wood, let it dry fully, then apply a finish compatible with what's already there, or strip it back if the old coating is peeling. Pressure washing needs a light touch on wood, since aggressive settings damage the surface; the pressure washing page explains the precautions, and the exterior painting page covers stains.

Permits for structural deck repairs in Montreal, Toronto and elsewhere

Repair rules are local. In Montreal, the Ahuntsic-Cartierville borough's page says no permit is needed to maintain or repair a deck, balcony, porch or stoop, but if you decide to use materials different from the original ones, you must inform the permit counter; replacing one requires a permit when its floor is more than 60 centimetres above the ground. In Toronto, where a permit is required to build a deck more than 60 centimetres above the ground, ask the city whether rebuilding the frame, guards or stairs of a deck that high needs one.

In general, replacing surface boards is maintenance, while replacing or altering the ledger, beams, posts, footings, guards or stairs is structural work that may need a permit, and your contractor should confirm with the municipality before starting. If a previous owner built the deck without a permit, a repair can bring that to light, so it's worth sorting out before you sell.

Deck Repair: frequently asked questions

Is it safe to use my deck if the railing is loose?

No. A guard is there to stop a fall, and one that moves under your hand may give way under a person's weight. Keep people away from that side, or off the deck, until a contractor has repaired it.

Can I replace the deck boards and keep the frame?

Often, yes, if the joists, beams, ledger and footings are sound. Have them inspected first, since new boards over a rotting frame only hide the problem, and ask whether the joist spacing suits the new decking, especially if you're switching to composite.

How do I know if my deck was built with CCA-treated wood?

Age is the main clue: Health Canada says residential decks built before 2004 are likely to be made of CCA-treated lumber. Colour isn't a reliable guide, so if your deck is that old, handle it as CCA wood when cutting, sanding or getting rid of it.

Why is my deck sinking or tilting?

Usually the footings: they were set too shallow and move with frost, or they have settled into soft or wet soil. A deck that tilts can also signal a failing ledger connection. Stop using it and have it assessed, since resetting footings is structural work.

Sources

  1. Staying safe around treated wood — Health Canada
  2. Building or replacing a deck, balcony, porch or stoop: Ahuntsic-Cartierville — Ville de Montréal
  3. When do I need a building permit? — City of Toronto

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of deck repair

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare deck builders before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask deck builders before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Deck repair permits and local rules

Some deck repair work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

Seasonal maintenance

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