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Framing

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Frame walls, basements, additions and new structures. Tell us about your framing project and we’ll help you find local framers who serve your area.

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Framing is the skeleton of a renovation: the studs, plates, joists, rafters and headers that everything else is fastened to. Homeowners hire framers to divide a basement into rooms, add or move an interior wall, build the floor and walls of a rear addition, frame a dormer or a porch roof, or rebuild part of a floor after a leak or rot. Framing is judged on whether it's straight, plumb, square and strong enough for its loads, because drywall, cabinets, tile and trim will show every flaw in it.

Much of this work is structural, which sets it apart from most carpentry. Anything that holds up a floor, a roof or a wall above is built to the building code, often from drawings by a designer or engineer, under a permit and with an inspection before it's covered. Non-structural partitions are simpler, but they still have to cope with basement moisture and with the pipes, ducts and wires that run through them.

Our carpenters page explains rough versus finish carpentry. This page covers framing itself: span tables and engineered lumber, steel studs, lumber moisture, the framing inspection, structural design and the warning signs of framing trouble.

Wall, floor and roof framing for basements, additions and renovations

Framing jobs range from one partition to the whole structure of an addition, and all of them start with layout: walls, openings and floors must land where the drawings put them, line up with what's above and below, and leave room for services.

  • Basement framing: partition walls and the stud walls in front of the foundation, laid out around the furnace, floor drains, cleanouts and electrical panel.
  • Renovation walls: new partitions, closed-in doorways, and widened openings that need a properly sized header over them.
  • Floor framing: joists, rim boards, subfloor and stair openings on additions, or reinforcing and replacing damaged joists in older houses.
  • Roof framing: rafters or trusses, ridge beams, dormers and porch roofs, which must carry snow as well as their own weight.
  • Exterior walls on additions and garage conversions, with rough openings sized to the windows and doors actually ordered.

Span tables and engineered lumber: sizing joists, rafters and beams

How far a joist or rafter can reach depends on the species and grade of the wood, its depth, how closely the members are spaced and the load they carry, including snow on a roof. Part 9 of the National Building Code of Canada, the model that provincial codes are built on, includes span tables for sawn-lumber joists, rafters and beams in ordinary houses. Provinces adopt the model code on their own schedule and sometimes with changes, so the framer and the permit reviewer work from the edition in force where you live.

Engineered products cover what the generic tables don't. I-joists, laminated veneer lumber and other manufactured beams are straighter and more consistent than sawn lumber and can span farther, but they're sized from the manufacturer's literature or by a designer or engineer. Each product also comes with its own rules on where holes may be cut, how it must bear on its supports and what blocking it needs. Once a beam replaces a bearing wall, carries a concentrated load or supports a new storey, sizing it is a professional's job.

Steel studs vs wood studs for basement walls and interior partitions

Light-gauge steel studs are a common alternative to wood for partitions and basement walls. Part 9 of the model code covers sheet-steel studs only in non-loadbearing walls, interior or exterior; steel framing that carries loads falls outside those prescriptive rules and has to be designed.

  • Steel studs are straight and consistent, and they don't shrink, twist or rot, which helps on long walls and in damp basements.
  • They're light and easy to carry down a narrow basement stair, though the paper facing on drywall fastened to them can still grow mould if it gets wet.
  • Wood holds screws and nails for trim, cabinets and shelving far more easily, so steel walls need blocking planned wherever something heavy will hang.
  • Steel conducts heat readily, so on an exterior or foundation wall the insulation plan has to account for it.
  • Wires run through steel studs need protection where they pass through the metal, something to settle with the electrician before framing starts.

Lumber moisture content: why wet framing leads to cracks, twists and nail pops

Framing lumber can arrive wetter than it will be once the house is heated, especially after sitting outside through rain or snow. As it dries, wood shrinks, far more across its width than along its length, so deep floor systems and built-up headers move the most. Studs framed wet can twist or bow, fasteners can push out through the drywall, and gaps can open at the tops of walls and around stair openings.

Careful framers keep lumber off the ground and under cover, set aside boards that are already crooked or soaked, and give the frame time to dry before insulation, vapour barrier and drywall go on. Some check doubtful boards with a moisture meter. On an addition framed through a wet spring or fall, running the heat and a dehumidifier before the walls are closed in is worth the delay.

The framing inspection: what gets checked before insulation and drywall

When framing is part of a permitted project, it has to be inspected before it disappears. The City of Toronto lists structural framing among the required inspection stages for houses, requested once framing is complete, including the rough-in of plumbing and HVAC, with insulation and vapour barrier inspected at a later stage. The city warns that anything covered before it passes inspection will have to be uncovered. Other municipalities use similar stages, so ask your permit office for its list at the start of the job.

  • Keep the approved permit drawings on site, because the inspector compares the frame against them.
  • Build headers, beams, posts and their bearing points exactly as drawn, and install engineered products to the manufacturer's details.
  • Finish the plumbing, duct and wiring rough-ins first, with any holes and notches in joists and studs kept within what the code and the product allow.
  • Leave every part of the frame visible: no insulation, vapour barrier or drywall over framing that hasn't been approved.

Framing permits, engineered drawings and RBQ licences for structural changes

The City of Toronto lists adding or removing walls, new or enlarged window and door openings, and additions among the work that needs a building permit, while finishing a basement with no structural alterations, new plumbing or additional unit is on its list of exemptions. Rules differ between municipalities, so check before framing starts.

Structural framing starts on paper. A beam replacing a bearing wall, a new opening in an exterior wall, a second storey or a change to the roof is designed by an engineer or a qualified designer, and it's never a do-it-yourself job. In Ontario, you can confirm an engineer's licence in the Professional Engineers Ontario directory of practitioners; in Quebec, the Ordre des ingénieurs du Québec publishes a directory of its members. In Quebec, the framer also needs an RBQ licence covering the work, such as subclass 6.1 for wood structures.

Signs of framing problems in an older house: sagging floors, cracks and leaning posts

Any of these is a reason to have the structure assessed, by a structural engineer when the cause isn't obvious, before anyone jacks, shims or reinforces it.

  • Floors that bounce, slope toward the middle of the house or dip near a stair opening or a wall removed years ago.
  • Diagonal cracks running from the corners of doors and windows, or doors that suddenly begin to bind.
  • A ridge line or roof plane that sags when seen from the street or from inside the attic.
  • Joists under bathrooms and kitchens that were cut, notched or drilled to make room for pipes and ducts.
  • Soft, dark or crumbling wood at sill plates, rim joists and the bottoms of exterior walls, often from a long-running leak.
  • Basement posts that lean, sit on bare soil or were added later without a proper footing.

Framing: frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit to frame my basement?

It depends on your municipality and what the project includes. Toronto, for example, doesn't require a permit to finish a basement with no structural alterations, new plumbing or additional unit, but it does for structural changes, new plumbing and a secondary suite. Ask your local permit office before framing starts.

How can I tell if a wall is load-bearing?

Not reliably from the room side. Clues include walls near the middle of the house running across the joists, walls stacked directly above one another, and walls under a beam or post. Only someone who examines the framing above and below, often an engineer, should confirm it, so treat the wall as bearing until then.

Are steel studs better than wood for basement walls?

Each has strengths. Steel studs stay straight and won't rot, which suits damp basements, but they make hanging cabinets and shelving harder unless blocking is added. Wood is easier to fasten to and more familiar to most framers.

What does sistering a joist mean?

Sistering fastens a new member alongside a cracked, notched or sagging joist so the two share the load. It's a common repair, but the size, fastening and bearing of the new member should be specified by someone qualified, and the cause, whether a leak, rot or an overcut notch, has to be fixed first.

Why are nails popping out of my drywall a year after a renovation?

Often because the framing dried and shrank after the drywall went up, loosening its grip on the fasteners. It's mostly cosmetic and is fixed by refastening and patching once the wood has stabilized. Widespread pops with cracks or sloping floors are worth having a professional look at.

Sources

  1. National Research Council Canada: National Building Code of Canada 2020
  2. National Research Council Canada: Model code adoption across Canada
  3. British Columbia Building Code 2018, Division B, Section 9.24: Sheet Steel Stud Wall Framing — Province of British Columbia
  4. City of Toronto: When do I need a building permit?
  5. City of Toronto: When to call for inspection of small buildings
  6. Professional Engineers Ontario: Directory of practitioners
  7. Ordre des ingénieurs du Québec: Directory of members
  8. RBQ: Specialized contractor licence subclasses

Written by the LokalMatch editorial team. Last reviewed September 10, 2026.

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What affects the cost of framing

Prices depend on the details of your project. We only publish price ranges when they’re backed by real LokalMatch quote data or reliable sources. Until then, here’s what usually changes the price:

  • Size and complexity of the piece or structure
  • Wood species or material
  • Custom design compared with standard sizes
  • Hardware, railings and finishing
  • Removal of what's there now
  • Permits and drawings, where needed

How to compare framers before you hire

  • Choose a carpenter whose past work matches your project, whether that's framing, trim, built-ins, stairs or a deck.
  • Ask for drawings or a clear description of what will be built, including materials and finishes.
  • For decks, stairs and railings, ask whether a permit is needed, since these are safety items.
  • Get a written quote that says who supplies materials and whether finishing, such as painting or staining, is included.
  • Ask how they'll handle surprises like rot or uneven walls and floors.

Questions to ask framers before you hire

  • Can you show me photos of similar work you've done?
  • What materials will you use, and why?
  • Does this project need a permit, and will you get it?
  • Is finishing, such as sanding, painting or staining, included?
  • How will you attach the work to the existing structure?
  • What warranty do you offer on your workmanship?

Framing permits and local rules

Some framing work needs a permit or has to meet local bylaws. Rules vary by municipality, so ask your pro whether a permit is needed and who will apply for it — and check with your city or town if you’re unsure.

Permits and licensing

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